Best Power Conditioners < $500

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  • pearsall001
    pearsall001 Posts: 5,094
    edited March 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Still not good enough to use with a he-man amp.

    Yeah, I guess you're right...what do the pros & recording studios know? :wink::smile: The only downside to the Equitech units is the pricing (if one is on a limited budget)...but worth every penny & then some. Trust me any he-man amp would jump up & kiss you for plugging it into one of those units. The wall socket be damned.
    "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up.
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  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,206
    edited March 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    It's only rated at 1500 VA / 12A. Certainly not something one wants to plug a he-man amp into.
    You are correct for banks 1 -4 which are not designed for high current devices like a Man amp or in this case the Bat amp, you have to use the 2 High current outlets that are rated at 1800 VA / 15A. Not many amps require more juice that that my friend , maybe on start up and IF you listen at extreme volumes and tax the Caps inside the amp. Then you might consider using something else. But on that budget , this used would be a great find. It's a perfect balance between Voltage correction, line conditioning , Surge protection , High current ability and at a affordable price used and fits this budget. New it's a bit out of budget but how can one put a budget on protecting ones system?
    On a side note I have run Big NAD , Anthem , Bryston , Krell , Rotel , B&K amps off this very unit and never ran out of juice. Again remember that unless your running full power max volume and taxing the amp , you will never need any more juice. I have done some pretty bad **** theater rooms with Multichannel amps from those companies and ran at reference volumes and didn't lose dynamic range due to not enough current supplied to the amp.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANAMAX-M5400-PM-M5400PM-HOME-THEATER-2U-POWER-CONDITIONER-SURGE-PROTECTOR-/330898343842?pt=US_Surge_Protectors_Power_Strips&hash=item4d0b1407a2
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
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  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited March 2013
    mantis wrote: »
    Panamax 5400 is the one man , forget the rest and get the best at the price point.

    Dan, I've been looking at these a lot. How big of a step up is the 5400PM from the 5400EX? What about the 5300PM and EX?
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
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  • CoolJazz
    CoolJazz Posts: 570
    edited March 2013
    To drift a little in direction...let me ask a question. Would we be better off taking a hard look at the components we put into our audio systems before getting real out there in expense and effort on the power side?

    Let me explain. If you have typical noise spewing switch mode supplies in any component in your audio system and don't do something, then you've increased the chances of less resolution in the audio produced. The vast majority of noise comes from those most intimately connected components. Then after that...from other things in physical proximity and then after that...from other things on the same power legs in the house. I'd suggest little typically comes in from the outside world. Most the noise on the lines YOU have introduced with your selections of devices and appliances!

    I am not suggesting noise treatment isn't appropriate. Quite the opposite. I'm simply suggesting that often no thought is given to the type of things we introduce into our systems and their low level but persistant audio problems that can be introduced as a result.

    You can read in any forum on the ol' WWW of heroic heavy lifting being done to power lines. How often to you read of somebody ripping a noisy power supply out of their digital source and building a nice quiet linear supply? How much scrutiny is there on the filtering on the power lines of your CD player with regards to noise being impressed on the lines as the result of it's insertion into your system?

    It makes no sense to not be critical of some of the cheap switcher wall warts or using the fraudulent Obama bulbs in your house and then go back and worry about trying to filter this noise back out. I'm suggesting that filtering is a good thing....AFTER you look at balancing the load in the house between phases, after you try to get the noisier appliances off the leg feeding your system and after you try to at least minimize if not dispose of the noise makers.

    Power lines are transmission lines and the source impedances the power originates from is a dominant effect. The most effective filtering is to never introduce the noise in the first place. THEN work on the remaining.

    CJ
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."

    More amazing Internet Science Pink Panther wisdom..."My DAC has since been upgraded from Mark Levinson to Topping."
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,820
    edited March 2013
    Trust me any he-man amp would jump up & kiss you for plugging it into one of those units. The wall socket be damned.

    Oh, how little you know. Do you even have dedicated lines?
    or in this case the Bat amp, you have to use the 2 High current outlets that are rated at 1800 VA / 15A.

    But that amp requires at least one 2400V/20 amp line.
    On a side note I have run Big NAD , Anthem , Bryston , Krell , Rotel , B&K amps off this very unit and never ran out of juice. Again remember that unless your running full power max volume and taxing the amp , you will never need any more juice.

    Sure you can run a he-man amp off a 15 amp line, but it will never perform as it could at any volume level. Think transients and dynamics. Not to mention the amp will run cooler. Hell, I upgraded the line to my Poineer AVR from 15 to 20 amps and can clearly hear the improvement.
    I have done some pretty bad **** theater rooms with Multichannel amps from those companies and ran at reference volumes and didn't lose dynamic range due to not enough current supplied to the amp.

    How would you know they didn't lose dynamic range since you have nothing to compare? Maybe you can get one of your customers with a 15 amp line and the Panamax to upgrade to at least one dedicated 20 amp line, then run the power gear directly. You and they WILL hear the difference.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Speedskater
    Speedskater Posts: 495
    edited March 2013
    That poor little 15 Amp circuit is rated for 15 Amps continuous for 3 hours. I don't want to be anywhere near a home hi-fi system using that kind of power. The only way a 15 Amp circuit breaker can limit power is by tripping.

    If you has a 15 Amp circuit connect 18 of those old fashion 100 Watt light bulbs to it, the turn-on current could reach 150 Amps!
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited March 2013
    Since we are on the subject I guess I'll ask a question.

    Currently I plug my Belles 350a Amp into the wall socket. Is the Belles considered a mans Amp? I'd guess it's a 15 amp circuit.

    I'm not causing myself a problem am I?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,820
    edited March 2013
    Speedskater wrote: »
    That poor little 15 Amp circuit is rated for 15 Amps continuous for 3 hours. I don't want to be anywhere near a home hi-fi system using that kind of power. The only way a 15 Amp circuit breaker can limit power is by tripping.

    If you has a 15 Amp circuit connect 18 of those old fashion 100 Watt light bulbs to it, the turn-on current could reach 150 Amps!

    I'll bet you don't think cables matter either.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,820
    edited March 2013
    NJPOLKER wrote: »
    Since we are on the subject I guess I'll ask a question.

    Currently I plug my Belles 350a Amp into the wall socket. Is the Belles considered a mans Amp? I'd guess it's a 15 amp circuit.

    I'm not causing myself a problem am I?

    Yes Drew, it's a man's amp. Not so much causing a problem, it's a case of not getting all that your amp has to offer. Run a 20 amp line to it and you'll hear what a difference it makes.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited March 2013
    No Drew,, it's a girlie amp-- ditch it quickly!
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited March 2013
    george daniel wrote: »
    No Drew,, it's a girlie amp-- ditch it quickly!

    Thanks George!!! Is that why you want one???????????? I gotta run that 20 amp line. Should be easy since I have access through the basement ceiling.

    Thanks guys
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  • pearsall001
    pearsall001 Posts: 5,094
    edited March 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Oh, how little you know. Do you even have dedicated lines?



    But that amp requires at least one 2400V/20 amp line.



    Sure you can run a he-man amp off a 15 amp line, but it will never perform as it could at any volume level. Think transients and dynamics. Not to mention the amp will run cooler. Hell, I upgraded the line to my Poineer AVR from 15 to 20 amps and can clearly hear the improvement.



    How would you know they didn't lose dynamic range since you have nothing to compare? Maybe you can get one of your customers with a 15 amp line and the Panamax to upgrade to at least one dedicated 20 amp line, then run the power gear directly. You and they WILL hear the difference.

    I must say your posts are very entertaining with no actual substance. Pretty much you MO. But don't fret, we still love ya!!!! :razz: Oh and yes I have a dedicated 20amp line & nothing will ever replace my Equitech unit. Do you even know anything about them?
    "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up.
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited March 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    But that amp requires at least one 2400V/20 amp line.


    The BAT VK500?Does it come from the factory with a 20 amp AC cord or IEC input?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,820
    edited March 2013
    pearsall001 wrote: »
    I must say your posts are very entertaining with no actual substance. Pretty much you MO. But don't fret, we still love ya!!!! :razz: Oh and yes I have a dedicated 20amp line & nothing will ever replace my Equitech unit. Do you even know anything about them?

    No Phil, you're the joke and frankly I'm sick of your piss poor advice. You're not even smart enough to have purchased the Equitech 20 amp version that would allow you to utilize that 20 amp line to it's full potential.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,820
    edited March 2013
    FTGV wrote: »
    The BAT VK500?Does it come from the factory with a 20 amp AC cord or IEC input?

    Good question and I'm not sure. I do know that it's full power consumption rating is 2000 watts.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • pearsall001
    pearsall001 Posts: 5,094
    edited March 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    No Phil, you're the joke and frankly I'm sick of your piss poor advice. You're not even smart enough to have purchased the Equitech 20 amp version that would allow you to utilize that 20 amp line to it's full potential.

    Priceless...worth the price of admission. ::rolleyes: Oh & by the way the Equitech unit was purchased back in 2005, the dedicated line came a few years later. No biggie...it still performs beautifully.
    "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,820
    edited March 2013
    pearsall001 wrote: »
    Oh & by the way the Equitech unit was purchased back in 2005, the dedicated line came a few years later. No biggie...it still performs beautifully as a choke point.

    Fixed it for you.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • pearsall001
    pearsall001 Posts: 5,094
    edited April 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Fixed it for you.

    Thank you so much, I feel much better now that you cleared that up. But of course you still don't know what the hell you're talking about.
    "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up.
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  • jumpindick
    jumpindick Posts: 428
    edited April 2013
    I have belkin PF60 and that is the first one I ever bought. So really i cannot comment on comparison, but it certainly is doing great job for us. I feel that the pic is a bit crisp and the humming noise that I would rather get due to cable box and other equipment in the system is not there.
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  • polkfarmboy
    polkfarmboy Posts: 5,703
    edited April 2013
    I have a panamax that just robs my amp with the logans :razz:
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  • Glen B
    Glen B Posts: 269
    edited April 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    It's only rated at 1500 VA / 12A. Certainly not something one wants to plug a he-man amp into.
    Check again. That 12A rating is only for the voltage regulated outlet banks. The unit also has high current outlet banks that are not voltage regulated.
    Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.

    Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.

    Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers.
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  • Glen B
    Glen B Posts: 269
    edited April 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    Good question and I'm not sure. I do know that it's full power consumption rating is 2000 watts.
    Full power consumption that it will only use when driven to its limits, in the case of a class AB amp. At average listening levels, its going to be drawing no where near maximum, and any 15A rated line conditioner or AC branch circuit may be enough under those conditions. A 15A time delay breaker will pass several times its nominal rating for moments at a time, as in response to musical transients.
    Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.

    Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.

    Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers.
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  • decal
    decal Posts: 3,205
    edited April 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    I'll bet you don't think cables matter either.

    What's this nonsense, cables matter?
    jerry.gif
    If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money.
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  • Goldenboy72206
    Goldenboy72206 Posts: 126
    edited April 2013
    panamax
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