RTiA7 amp?
Comments
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chiptouz, do you feel something is lacking with your current AVR?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
chiptouz, do you feel something is lacking with your current AVR?
F1nut,
You know I don't know. I hear all of you talking on the forums about how most AVR's don't really give enough power to really make the speakers sound like they were designed for. I want to get the most out of my current setup so I guess I just don't know if I am lacking in the power department. For me I rarely get to listen to a movie at the max volume that I have my avr set to (-10). So within these lower power ranges would an external amp give me better sound, etc. I am not looking for max volume and rocking out the subdivision, I just want a solid experience. Can I live with what I have, sure. I really don't know if I am missing anything and to me when I put in a great mixed movie such as Tron: Legacy I am blown away with the 7.1. But to me I am like this sounds great, but would it sound even better with a more powerful external amp....So far I really love the Denon and it has been the best AVR I have owned..Sharp LC-80uq17u
Denon 4520ci Receiver
OPPO BDP-203 Blu-Ray Disc Player
Monster HTS 3600
Polk RTi-a7 (fronts)
Polk CSi-a6 (Center)
Polk TC-60i (Rear & Surround Rear)
HSU Research VTF3-MK4 (Sub)
Logitech Harmony elite (Remote) -
It can always sound better. Say you got an amp for the fronts and it improves the sound. Well, just think what it would sound like with an amp for each channel. Then, a dedicated pre/pro, then better cables, etc.
Anyway, if you don't get an amp you'll never know, right? If it doesn't do anything for you, you can always sell it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
It can always sound better. Say you got an amp for the fronts and it improves the sound. Well, just think what it would sound like with an amp for each channel. Then, a dedicated pre/pro, then better cables, etc.
Anyway, if you don't get an amp you'll never know, right? If it doesn't do anything for you, you can always sell it.
+1I am not looking for max volume and rocking out the subdivision, I just want a solid experience. Can I live with what I have, sure. I really don't know if I am missing anything and to me when I put in a great mixed movie such as Tron: Legacy I am blown away with the 7.1. But to me I am like this sounds great, but would it sound even better with a more powerful external amp....So far I really love the Denon and it has been the best .
This is probably the same expression every member here has had in the beginning of their H.T./media experience.
I reasoned with myself; to me, I've got a great sounding system, I don't need to pound the volume, will spending "all" that money make the difference to make it worth while???????
In a nutshell, what adding an amp did for me; it has increased my CD collection.
So yeah, adding amplification to your system can be very beneficial, especially for action movies when your speakers are requiring power from the power supply, or, if you're into 2ch music, supplying a larger amount of power to your mains over what your AVR can supply can and will give your music a richer experience.
I can say this for sure, if you add an amp to your system, it won't sound worse :cool:Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2
Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman -
Thank you both for your advice. I think I will take the plunge the next sale that comes up. I might start with an xpa-3 and then pick up an xpa-5 later if I think the rear and rear surround need the extra oomph.Sharp LC-80uq17u
Denon 4520ci Receiver
OPPO BDP-203 Blu-Ray Disc Player
Monster HTS 3600
Polk RTi-a7 (fronts)
Polk CSi-a6 (Center)
Polk TC-60i (Rear & Surround Rear)
HSU Research VTF3-MK4 (Sub)
Logitech Harmony elite (Remote) -
Something to consider, one tends to get what they pay for.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Something to consider, one tends to get what they pay for.
You just can't help yourself can you? The OP doesn't know what an emo hater you are.
Nobody was pushing brands on this guy for one thing, just encouraging him to go into another level of this experience. And then you throw in the element of doubt to his decision.
I don't care who you are, that's just not cool
Let's take a closer look at what you pay for when you purchase an emotive amp; an amplifier that actually does it's job, a five year warranty, free shipping, a company that cares about their customers, a price point that comes in thousands of dollars less than other companies.
Uhh yeah, I'm pretty happy with what I got for what I paid for, thanks for pointing that out F1Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2
Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman -
Let's take a closer look at what you pay for when you purchase an emotive amp; an amplifier that actually does it's job, a five year warranty, free shipping, a company that cares about their customers, a price point that comes in thousands of dollars less than other companies.
What does any of that matter when the sound quality isn't there?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
While not the OP and I hope he doesn't think I hijacked the thread I understand that you get what you pay for and sometimes what you pay for is the name too. I am sure most audiophiles have as much $ in one speaker as I have in my entire system. While some of the big name HT dealers in STL wont even try to help you they can take their adcom and macintosh and cater to their 1%. For me, who is just trying to break into external amps and hopefully separates in the future (when my Denon shoots craps), I like seeing the 5 year warranty (which would keep me from buying used) and from what I have read, good customer service. Maybe when I win the lottery I will get all uber high end stuff and have a separate room for two channel and a different one for HT, but until that time I will get the "best" at a level that I can afford. Not trying to be defensive or take one side over another. I am just telling it like it is for me.Sharp LC-80uq17u
Denon 4520ci Receiver
OPPO BDP-203 Blu-Ray Disc Player
Monster HTS 3600
Polk RTi-a7 (fronts)
Polk CSi-a6 (Center)
Polk TC-60i (Rear & Surround Rear)
HSU Research VTF3-MK4 (Sub)
Logitech Harmony elite (Remote) -
You can always improve the sound by dumping money in your system. I don't know of a case where a more expensive component will make your system sound worse. The problem with the advice that is spewed on this forum is that the improvements are grossly exaggerated. Sometimes there is no improvement at all or it is not detectable by human ear. The most frequent overestimation is how little power is needed for normal listening levels. 10W of power is plenty if you are going to work in the room and intend to listen to pandora for 1 hour straight. If huge power was a must tube amps would be worthless. And yet F1nut loves to be defend mutually exclusive arguments.
Geoff, buy a cheap power meter and let me know how much power your 1 kilowat emos draw at a level that is appropriate for the ears of your 3 daughters. I will bet you a dollar that your AVR is more than potent for that.
Most of the lovers of power should get familiar with the concept of log. The difference between 50W amp and 500W amp is only 10db. How often to u listen to music with the knob all the way up?
Power does matter in the right circumstances but most of the consumers would not jump the big dollars if they were aware of what the real difference will be.I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs.
jeremymarcinko wrote: »But as in all things your perception is your reality. -
Absolutely TRUE... ...if all you need is low level acoustic wallpaper and your speakers are a near-resistive load. But music and movie soundtracks are dynamic. More complex XOs are anything but resistive. Further, 'A7s* and especially the 'A9s (w/their 3 & 5 dynamic drivers respectively) generate some serious back EMF that's a "kick in the crotch" to any amp. AVRs have a tougher time compared to most separates.The problem with the advice that is spewed on this forum is that the improvements are grossly exaggerated. 10W of power is plenty if you are going to work in the room and intend to listen to pandora for 1 hour straight.
* the A7 impedence below 125 Hz drops to 4 ohms
Absolutely TRUE... ...if you ONLY "look at the numbers. My challange to you: find an AVR w/ peak current, damping factor, and/or slew specs.Power does matter in the right circumstances but most of the consumers would not jump the big dollars if they were aware of what the real difference will be.
That said, Xcapri's response bears repeating...
Many years ago I had a 2-CH quad amped system good for 400-450 per channel. XO'd so about 3/4 of the power was below 200 hz. At any volume level the SQ was as sweet as it was effortless w/any program material.Speaker impedance varies over the frequency range of the source material. Better amplifiers provide a better dynamic current source to those complex speaker loads. This is why a typical Emotiva amp "sounds" better than a typical AVR amp and why a typical McIntosh amp "sounds" better than a typical Emotiva amp. The make and type of amp you use does matter and all "watts" are not the same when it comes to amp ratings.Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Took me more than one try, too! It doesn't just "sort of say 'I gave bad advice'," It most certainly says just that!Took me a couple of times reading it but that qoute does sort of say "I gave bad advice" doesn't it? LOL.
NO ONE EXPECTS THE DOUBLE NEGATIVE INQUISITION!!!
Rav you keep diggin' deeper and deeper.Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
To those thinking/looking/shopping:
because the "front" has higher power demands, many who've travelled this road before you are more than satisfied w/a 2/3 channel separate for their LR/LCR, using the AVR for the other channels. I'm not arguing against a 5 or 7 channel separate itself. You may find taking "$maller step$" ea$ier on your wallet, not to mention, more channels, bigger chassis.Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Thank you both for your advice. I think I will take the plunge the next sale that comes up. I might start with an xpa-3 and then pick up an xpa-5 later if I think the rear and rear surround need the extra oomph.
Well, I'll add my vote to an Emo amp. I had a Denon 2808 and later an Onkyo 818 with A7's. I went with an XPA-5 and was very happy. The Onkyo is now a processor and Zone 2 amp. I'm not smart enough to comprehend most of the ohms, sensitivity, etc. talk. I think it sounds better and was worth the money. And, if someone disagrees with me, that's OK. Placebo effect? I don't think so. Everyone comes to these boards seeking opinions. No one is going to change anyone's mind. Those that agree an amp will help greatly outnumber those that don't.
I thought about an XPA 3, but decided it would prevent a future upgrade itch. Very happy I did. Consider that if you don't like the amp, you can send it back and will only be out return shipping. Also, you may consider going through Amazon. I did this and got a year of free financing by using the Amazon store card. The amp is still shipped by Emo just as it would if you placed the order directly with Emo.
