Polk 11t Monitor series. Problem:
Toqai
Posts: 6
So heres my issue guys:
I picked these up for a steal at a yard sale a few months ago for around 50 bucks. There's basically nothing wrong with them except for one thing.
I don't really have any issues with distortion of the middle driver right below the tweeter until I am listening to something with ALOT of bass, Then is starts distorting. When i took the driver off and continued playing the songs that caused it to distort it didn't have that issue at all. The conclusion I have came up with is that the Subs on the bottom are causing it to rattle... Anyone else have this issue? Did you figure out how to stop this from happening? I like to have people over too my house and play music at high volumes so this is a must for me.
I picked these up for a steal at a yard sale a few months ago for around 50 bucks. There's basically nothing wrong with them except for one thing.
I don't really have any issues with distortion of the middle driver right below the tweeter until I am listening to something with ALOT of bass, Then is starts distorting. When i took the driver off and continued playing the songs that caused it to distort it didn't have that issue at all. The conclusion I have came up with is that the Subs on the bottom are causing it to rattle... Anyone else have this issue? Did you figure out how to stop this from happening? I like to have people over too my house and play music at high volumes so this is a must for me.
Post edited by Toqai on
Comments
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is it all of the drivers, or just one single driver?
it sounds like you are over-driving the speakers and the drivers are bottoming out. the rattling you hear are the voice coils.
the lower "subs", as you call them, are passive radiators and not actively being driving. they are driving by pressure from inside the cabinet.
give us more info on your set up... amp, preamp, volume you listen...Polk Lsi9
N.E.W. A-20 class A 20W
NAD 1020 completely refurbished
Keces DA-131 mk.II
Analysis Plus Copper Oval, Douglass, Morrow SUB3, Huffman Digital
Paradigm DSP-3100 v.2 -
You need a sub. The 11t are fine speakers but not designed for blasting bass. If you picked up a cheap sub and wired them high level you would be much better off.Too much **** to list....
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Really i just have em hooked up to a old Kenwood kr- v5570 with basic cables. Ive noticed that its probably the air from the lower drivers pushing the other driver im having the issues with. Im pretty much a beginner to all the technical stuff about the speakers. When im listening to music on my PC I go through a Traktor s2 into the Kenwood receiver. (I know, its not optimal) The traktor will be up to about 60% and then the Kenwood at around 60 also. I really am convinced its the lower drivers pushing the air into the mid. Like I said before, when i took the driver that was having the issue out of the case the issue was did not persist but when i put it back in it immediately started again. What would be a good solution to keep the air from flowing up to the driver to make it keep from having this issue?
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Is this happening in both speakers or just one?Ive noticed that its probably the air from the lower drivers pushing the other driver im having the issues with.
I guarantee you that is NOT the problem.What would be a good solution to keep the air from flowing up to the driver to make it keep from having this issue?
Forget you ever had that idea.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Another question......do you have the tone controls set flat?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
WTF? You ask questions, you see the OP is looking, you're waiting for them to respond, but instead they disappear!?! The mind wobbles......Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
sorry about that, accidentally closed out the forum. Like i said, im brand new to this. Yes the tones controls are flat. Its mostly the left speaker that is giving me trouble. The right will only do it if i am REALLY going at it.
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He's back
Ok, chances are that the driver in your left speaker is basically worn out. However, you could have an air leak that isn't allowing the driver to have the proper back pressure. Try this and report back when you get the chance. Push in and hold both passive radiators at the same time while watching the drivers. The drivers should pop out all the way, then slowly return to their resting position in 2 to 3 seconds. If they return quicker than that, you have an air leak.
Edit: I had to refresh my memory of the driver/PR layout.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Alright so i pushed down the radiators and it did in fact slowly return to their resting position. So I think that handles that!
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Ok, it seems you have a bad driver. If you want, swap the driver in question with one of the drivers from the right speaker. Play your music again to see if the problem goes with the driver that is now in the right speaker.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Let's address another issue.I like to have people over too my house and play music at high volumes so this is a must for me.
Your receiver is rated at 60 watts per channel and those are receiver watts, not power amp watts, so you shouldn't expect too much. You really need a power amp to be able to properly control the drivers and obtain clean high volume levels.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Let's address another issue.
Your receiver is rated at 60 watts per channel and those are receiver watts, not power amp watts, so you shouldn't expect too much. You really need a power amp to be able to properly control the drivers and obtain clean high volume levels.
Thanks for that advice, any suggestions on power amps? -
This^^^Let's address another issue.
Your receiver is rated at 60 watts per channel and those are receiver watts, not power amp watts, so you shouldn't expect too much. You really need a power amp to be able to properly control the drivers and obtain clean high volume levels.
Your Monitors are rated 6 ohms nominal, and most likely hit 4-5 ohms in the low bass region. Your Kenwood is rated 60 watt/channel in stereo/2 channel @ 8 ohms, and drops to 50 watt/channel in surround mode @ 8 ohms. There is an impedance switch on the back, make sure it's set to less than 8 ohms. Make sure your tone controls are set to neutral, and any loudness controls are switched off.
Unfortunately, you don't have pre-amp outs, so using a power amp with it is a no go. You'll need to invest in some new equipment.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Alright, thanks for the advice.
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I have seen on some of these drivers where the spider spring detaches from the basket. If this is the case, it can be glued back and be good again.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
I had a similar problem with the bass and thought it was one of the passive radiators. Turns out the the picture frame floor stand was loose and vibrated. I removed frames and installed spikes. I have never had the issue again, no matter how hard I push them.
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One of 11t drivers had voice coil thingy detached from the spider and it was making slapping noise as the vc was going past the xmax and hitting the speaker cone/dust cap.
No idea how to fix that so I replaced it.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
