Replacements drivers for Polk Monitor 10B

Blacksoldier

Hi all, I just picked up a set of monitor 10B's from a seller on CL for $20. The cabs are in pretty ruff shape, and three of the mid drivers are frozen(shifted magnets). I am planning on restoring these speakers and I would like to know what would be a good replacement for the mid drivers? They are MW 6503. I saw three MW6600X on that auction site, would they be a good replacement? Thanks in advance.

F1nut

I saw three MW6600X on that auction site, would they be a good replacement?

No, you should replace your 6503's with the same.

westmassguy

F1nut wrote: »

No, you should replace your 6503's with the same.

+1 Either keep you eye on eBay, or call Polk Csutomer Service, the 6503s are still available supposedly.

soundfreak1

Get the 6503's from polk. Tell them you are a member and get a discount. But dont mismatch with oother drivers.

bored184

I would call polk and see if you can order some replacements. An older driver may end up shifting in transit which means you may be back to square one. If you are feeling adventurous there are some good threads on fixing magnet shift. I had three frozen drivers in my SDAs that I was able to realign.

Blacksoldier

Thanks for the info all. I will call Polk and find out what it would cost for the drivers. I will even keep an eye on that auction site as well. Thanks again guys.

DON73

If you don't buy from Polk just be sure that you can return anything that's damaged/shifts in shipment. I've bought a few of these drivers and they've all arrived in good shape because they were well cushioned when they were packaged.

Blacksoldier

Hi again all...Here is an update to my driver issues. I made a jig as per a thread on AK, and fixed two of my drivers so far....:cheesygrin: They are working great and just waiting to be installed after I restore the cabinets. I have another issue however. I just realized that the rubber surround on my last driver has started to separate from the cone. Where could I get a replacement surround? Thanks in advance for your help.

BS

halo71

If the rubber is coming loose just reglue it to the cone. Something like Aileen's glue will work.

westmassguy

halo71 wrote: »

If the rubber is coming loose just reglue it to the cone. Something like Aileen's glue will work.

Aleene's won't hold rubber very well, or for very long. how wide a gap are we talking?

halo71

westmassguy wrote: »

Aleene's won't hold rubber very well, or for very long. how wide a gap are we talking?

No ****? I didn't know that it would not hold rubber. Sorry for the suggestion OP. :redface:

westmassguy

halo71 wrote: »

No ****? I didn't know that it would not hold rubber. Sorry for the suggestion OP. :redface:

There are specialty adhesives required to attach rubber surrounds, Aleene's is great for foam surrounds, but never rubber.

Blacksoldier

Here is a pic of what the separation looks like. Sorry the pic is so big. This driver is one that has the magnet shift. I have it apart and wanted to work on the surround problem before reinstalling the magnet. Thanks.

F1nut

That surround is toast and new ones are not available.

westmassguy

F1nut wrote: »

That surround is toast and new ones are not available.

Agreed, no amount of glue is going to fix that. The surround is torn, not just separated.
Going to need a replacement driver.

Blacksoldier

Ok, thanks guys. I saw one on the bay earlier for $32. Looks in great shape and the seller says its in working order. Would it be a good idea to try and get it? Thanks again.

BS

westmassguy

Blacksoldier wrote: »

Ok, thanks guys. I saw one on the bay earlier for $32. Looks in great shape and the seller says its in working order. Would it be a good idea to try and get it? Thanks again.

BS

Once you include shipping, you're better off just ordering a new one from Polk. $48.00 with free shipping. Just tell customer service you're a Club Polk Member.

Blacksoldier

Thanks for the reply westmassguy. I think I may just do that. I have already fixed my drivers with the shifted magnet so I will get the one from Polk and continue with my rebuild. Once I can afford to, I will replace the fixed drivers with new ones from Polk.

westmassguy

Blacksoldier wrote: »

Thanks for the reply westmassguy. I think I may just do that. I have already fixed my drivers with the shifted magnet so I will get the one from Polk and continue with my rebuild. Once I can afford to, I will replace the fixed drivers with new ones from Polk.

Sounds like a plan!

F1nut

Just be aware that the new drivers don't look the same as the originals.

PolkieMan

You might try some Pro Seal RTV Black Silicone instant gasket like this

http://www.supergluecorp.com/pro-seal/rtv-silicone-instant-gasket-makers/black-rtv-silicone-instant-gasket-1

I had a small hole where someone slipped with a phillps head screwdriver I used a toothpick to apply and layer it.

It lasts, that was a year ago.

Yours is worse, well it couldn't hurt, the stuff is cheap.

The new drivers are almost the same, the voice coil wire are hidden and the cone texture is slightly different.

Last time I checked as a member they were $48 plus tax free shipping. Ask for Helen Yarbor.

F1nut wrote: »

Just be aware that the new drivers don't look the same as the originals.

StantonZ

Good luck with the new drivers...are the tweeters ok? I assume you've tried them.

Blacksoldier

StantonZ wrote: »

Good luck with the new drivers...are the tweeters ok? I assume you've tried them.

To be honest, I have not even tried the tweeters as yet, I have been pretty pre-occupied with the cabs and the mid drivers. How would I test the tweeters anyway? Is there a safe way of doing so? Where do they sell that silicone gasket anyway? Its worth a try, although I am still gonna get the driver from Polk just in case.

Thanks F1 Nut, I will keep that in mind about the drivers.

wantabeach

New drivers will not sound the same and require some break in.

westmassguy

wantabeach wrote: »

New drivers will not sound the same and require some break in.

That's a bit misleading. I'm rebuilding a pair of Monitor 10s for a customer. There are three original MW6503s, and one new replacement. The Replacement driver's cone has a slightly different texture (less shinny), and the lead wire solder points are under the dust cap now instead of exposed. Sonically, it's indistinguishable from the originals.

StantonZ

Blacksoldier wrote: »

To be honest, I have not even tried the tweeters as yet, I have been pretty pre-occupied with the cabs and the mid drivers. How would I test the tweeters anyway? Is there a safe way of doing so?

Assuming the cross-over works at all (you get sound out of the speakers), you should be able to hear high-frequency info through the tweeters; if you're unsure, find a frequency sweep track on an audio test CD (good to have for surround setup balancing anyway--these CD's typically have both "white" and "pink" noise tracks). The reason I asked at all is that I just replaced my SL2000's with RDO-194's and they sound great, so you have an option if the tweets are bad.

Blacksoldier

Hi again all, I have everything taken apart right now for the restore. Is there a way to check the functionality of the tweeters while everything is apart? Thanks again.

PolkieMan

Yea I got mine at Harbor Freight but I don't know where you are at.
I think It's worth a try, please don't toss it out.:rolleyes:
The new drivers are almost the same, the voice coil wire are hidden and the cone texture is slightly different.
Of course any speaker needs a little play time to break in but they sound the same. I like the originals though.
I test my tweeters hooked up direct turned down very very very low and hold it up to my ear


http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364671607&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=N80046+Black+RTV+Silicone

westmassguy

I don't think I'd ever risk a tweeter doing that, even at low levels. Best to put a 10 or 12uf cap in series with it. A cheap np electrolytic would do for testing.

PolkieMan

An old portable radio is good using the earphone jack, once again very low

westmassguy wrote: »

I don't think I'd ever risk a tweeter doing that, even at low levels. Best to put a 10 or 12uf cap in series with it. A cheap np electrolytic would do for testing.

StantonZ

westmassguy wrote: »

I don't think I'd ever risk a tweeter doing that, even at low levels. Best to put a 10 or 12uf cap in series with it. A cheap np electrolytic would do for testing.

Agreed!