Ready to take the upgrade plunge on my SDA 1.2tl's.
nacam
Posts: 56
Hi All;
I am nervous to start upgrading these. I have the skills needed to get the job done but I love these speakers! The upgrades I have planned:
1. Glue driver magnets
2. Dynamat Driver baskets
3. Larry's Rings
4. Re-glue a cross brace that has come loose
I have a few questions:
Glue - JB Weld was recommended here. I have 2 tubes of PL Premium I can use which is a Polyurethane construction adhesive. Says it bonds to metal. Would this be a decent choice to use?
Areas to glue - I have seen some pictures but wanted to clarify - Glue around the top and bottom of where black part of the magnet meets the metal part? I also have heard of people gluing around where the magnet assembly meets the basket. Is this done only for drivers that are riveted or is there benefit to doing it regardless?
Larry's Rings - I read DarqueKnight's guide on installing them (thank-you!). One thing I did not notice was how to remove the hurricane nuts that are embedded in the wood to hold the existing hex nuts in place. Has anyone done this, if so how did you remove them?
Moretite - I have had my drivers out before and the gaskets are all in good shape. When doing the "push" test my speakers are air tight. Assuming I don't damage any of the gaskets am I okay to put them back in or do the rings slightly change where the driver sits int he holes?
Bass Braces - There is only one loose that I am aware of so far. It buzzes at high volumes. Wondering if anyone else has run into this problem and how you fixed it. The brace was secured with hot glue, I assume I can just remove the existing hot glue and re-glue it. Should I use hot glue or something stronger like the PL Premium?
Any help/suggestions would be appreciated!
After all this I am hoping to use Gimpod's XO boards to upgrade the crossovers then be done with it.
Cheers;
Nacam
I am nervous to start upgrading these. I have the skills needed to get the job done but I love these speakers! The upgrades I have planned:
1. Glue driver magnets
2. Dynamat Driver baskets
3. Larry's Rings
4. Re-glue a cross brace that has come loose
I have a few questions:
Glue - JB Weld was recommended here. I have 2 tubes of PL Premium I can use which is a Polyurethane construction adhesive. Says it bonds to metal. Would this be a decent choice to use?
Areas to glue - I have seen some pictures but wanted to clarify - Glue around the top and bottom of where black part of the magnet meets the metal part? I also have heard of people gluing around where the magnet assembly meets the basket. Is this done only for drivers that are riveted or is there benefit to doing it regardless?
Larry's Rings - I read DarqueKnight's guide on installing them (thank-you!). One thing I did not notice was how to remove the hurricane nuts that are embedded in the wood to hold the existing hex nuts in place. Has anyone done this, if so how did you remove them?
Moretite - I have had my drivers out before and the gaskets are all in good shape. When doing the "push" test my speakers are air tight. Assuming I don't damage any of the gaskets am I okay to put them back in or do the rings slightly change where the driver sits int he holes?
Bass Braces - There is only one loose that I am aware of so far. It buzzes at high volumes. Wondering if anyone else has run into this problem and how you fixed it. The brace was secured with hot glue, I assume I can just remove the existing hot glue and re-glue it. Should I use hot glue or something stronger like the PL Premium?
Any help/suggestions would be appreciated!
After all this I am hoping to use Gimpod's XO boards to upgrade the crossovers then be done with it.
Cheers;
Nacam
2 Channel Basement Setup:
PC With M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 Card
Rotel RC-1070
Rotel RB-1090
Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL (1991) w/RD0-198 Tweeters.
PC With M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 Card
Rotel RC-1070
Rotel RB-1090
Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL (1991) w/RD0-198 Tweeters.
Post edited by nacam on
Comments
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I have only used JB weld, I know others have used other products with good results.
The existing nuts you speak of will screw out with an Allen wrench. I don't remember the size..
Please don't use mortite, use armicel or new gaskets..
The rings do not change where the drivers sit.. -
I am not new to the club but this is my first post. My question is are these upgrades available on my speaks? I have had these for about 11 years now and want them to sound as best as I can get them. Any suggestions on what I can do or get would be much appreciated.
Thanks.HT: LSI15, LSIC, LSIFX, Emo XPA-3:biggrin: Onkyo TXNR809, Sony BDP-S500, PannyDMP-BDT320, MIT S1 SC. Mit 73842dlp
2ch: SDA-SRS 2.3 Fully modded. BAT VK500 w/batpak, BAT VK5I, Essence HDACC. -
Yes they are..
-
Hi All;
I am nervous to start upgrading these. I have the skills needed to get the job done but I love these speakers! The upgrades I have planned:
1. Glue driver magnets
2. Dynamat Driver baskets
3. Larry's Rings
4. Re-glue a cross brace that has come loose
I have a few questions:
Glue - JB Weld was recommended here. I have 2 tubes of PL Premium I can use which is a Polyurethane construction adhesive. Says it bonds to metal. Would this be a decent choice to use?
Areas to glue - I have seen some pictures but wanted to clarify - Glue around the top and bottom of where black part of the magnet meets the metal part? I also have heard of people gluing around where the magnet assembly meets the basket. Is this done only for drivers that are riveted or is there benefit to doing it regardless?
Larry's Rings - I read DarqueKnight's guide on installing them (thank-you!). One thing I did not notice was how to remove the hurricane nuts that are embedded in the wood to hold the existing hex nuts in place. Has anyone done this, if so how did you remove them?
Moretite - I have had my drivers out before and the gaskets are all in good shape. When doing the "push" test my speakers are air tight. Assuming I don't damage any of the gaskets am I okay to put them back in or do the rings slightly change where the driver sits int he holes?
Bass Braces - There is only one loose that I am aware of so far. It buzzes at high volumes. Wondering if anyone else has run into this problem and how you fixed it. The brace was secured with hot glue, I assume I can just remove the existing hot glue and re-glue it. Should I use hot glue or something stronger like the PL Premium?
Any help/suggestions would be appreciated!
After all this I am hoping to use Gimpod's XO boards to upgrade the crossovers then be done with it.
Cheers;
Nacam
Apply the glue in the groove between the metal and the magnet, on the top and bottom.
If you use Larry's Rings or Hurricane nuts, and the mating surface on the speaker baffle remains smooth after all the drilling, then the existing gaskets will do fine. As long as they are not torn, the increased clamping pressure from the Rings or H-nuts will seal the drivers perfectly.
You should scrape out all the old glue, and use Carpenters glue or a Good, Hi-Bond Construction Adhesive made specifically for wood and wood composite products.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Looking at your list of planned upgrades, have you upgraded the cross-connect cable? It seems like this would get you more improvement than the mods listed (except for the rings which I have not yet added). At least it did for me. Reagan
p.s., Larry's rings are currently here in NC but are being sat on by a UPS driver. Should arrive tomorrow,Speakers: Polk 1.2TL w/VR3 mods and Dreadnaught interconnects
Amplification: ARC Reference 110 w/KT150s; Cary Audio SLP-05 w/Ultimate Upgrade
Vinyl: VPI HW19 MK III (Heavily Modded); Origin Live Silver Tonearm; Hana ML Cart; Pete Riggle VTAF; VPI TNT Platter; SAMA; Iphono3
Digital: Aurender N100H; Benchmark DAC1