MW6513 bass line source (woofers) in a SDA SRS 2.3

catmat10_2

I burnt the voice coils in the 2 MW6513 woofers in my left SDA 2.3 speaker. I've posted in the wanted section looking for 6513's but I believe these drivers were not used very often and I may not find any, so the question I have is "What other driver can I use in place of the 6513's"?

F1nut

I believe these drivers were not used very often

Correct, they were only used in the 2.3's.

I may not find any

Have you looked on eBay?

"What other driver can I use in place of the 6513's"?

None that I'm aware of.

Phasewolf

In the past there have been reports of Polk have a few of them in stock they maybe new old stock I really don't know can't hurt to call them.

westmassguy

Phasewolf wrote: »

In the past there have been reports of Polk have a few of them in stock they maybe new old stock I really don't know can't hurt to call them.

+1
Call customer service, see if they have any, or can recommend an alternate

Schurkey

Option A. Pull the donut off the defective donut drivers, glue them into 6511s. The schematic posted on this site shows 6511s in the positions later occupied by 6513s; (the 6511 is then crossed out, and 6513 hand-written beside it.) I bet the '13 is a mass-loaded '11.

Option B. Convert the speakers to 2.3TL specs. Refresh crossover, order additional 6510s and RD0-198s as required.

Burnt-out the voice coils, or were the drivers subjected to magnet shift? If the magnet shifted, they can sometimes be repaired. Does an ohmmeter show no continuity through the coils? Cone locked-up and doesn't move?

Just kinda surprised that you could pop the voice coils. Defective crossover sending too much signal to those drivers?

catmat10_2

Thanks for responces guys. To Schurkey, I don't believe the magnets shifted, the cones are not locked up but they do make a scratchy sound when they move. I'll check the con. with my ohm meter

PolkieMan

Option B. Convert the speakers to 2.3TL specs. Refresh crossover, order additional 6510s and RD0-198s as required.

That would be the way to go the 2.3tls used all 6510's for MW drivers

F1nut

Option B. Convert the speakers to 2.3TL specs. Refresh crossover, order additional 6510s and RD0-198s as required.

That would be the way to go the 2.3tls used all 6510's for MW drivers

That's an expensive proposition requiring the replacement of all caps, resistors, inductors, tweeters and most drivers. It would be cheaper to buy a pair of 2.3TL's.

PolkieMan

Ah most it would be new, all new! to be young again my friend!:cheesygrin:
Besides if he can find a set he needs to do the crossovers and tweeters anyway, right?

F1nut wrote: »

That's an expensive proposition requiring the replacement of all caps, resistors, inductors, tweeters and most drivers. It would be cheaper to buy a pair of 2.3TL's.

Schurkey

F1nut wrote: »

That's an expensive proposition requiring the replacement of all caps, resistors, inductors, tweeters and most drivers. It would be cheaper to buy a pair of 2.3TL's.

Ehhhh...not so much, especially if these are relatively stock/unmodified as-is.

The circuit boards probably need to be gone through anyway, so really the caps and resistors are pretty much a wash. Haven't compared the schematics, but you're probably right about the inductors.

He oughta upgrade to RD0- tweets anyway, so might as well order the 198s instead of the 194s. Again--cost is equal either way.

He's gonna buy two drivers no matter what--and the "correct" ones aren't available from Polk (although I have a dollar that says they never were anything but a mass-loaded '11) so he might as well order what they do stock (the 6510s), along with enough extra to replace the other 6511s and '13's. The drivers are the major expense here.

Expensive? Sure. But not so bad as buying entire new speakers, paying shipping or gas/tires/oil/motel to get them...and STILL having to go through the crossovers and verify that all the drivers work, before starting in on "the rest of the mods".

The cheap way out is transferring the donuts to the 6511s--if they are indeed compatible. Any help from M. Polk/Ken Swauger/Customer Service/Anyone Else as to 6511/6513 differences?

F1nut

He oughta upgrade to RD0- tweets anyway, so might as well order the 198s instead of the 194s. Again--cost is equal either way.

You can't use the RD0198-1's in the 2.3's unless the entire crossover is changed to the 2.3TL specs, which also means changing most of the drivers and then we're back to expensive.

Schurkey

F1nut wrote: »

You can't use the RD0198-1's in the 2.3's unless the entire crossover is changed to the 2.3TL specs, which also means changing most of the drivers and then we're back to expensive.

Yes. Exactly right.

But not as expensive as buying a pair of 2.3TLs, getting them home (picking them up from God only knows how far away, or having them shipped) and then in all probability, STILL needing to go through them and upgrade the crossovers, tweeters, etc.

F1nut wrote: »

That's an expensive proposition requiring the replacement of all caps, resistors, inductors, tweeters and most drivers.

THAT is correct.

F1nut wrote: »

It would be cheaper to buy a pair of 2.3TL's.

It's this part that I think is in error--barring some sort of very-unlikely steal-of-a-deal.

catmat10_2

Thanks for the replys. to Schurkey, I'm fairly certain the magnets have not shifted, the cones move freely but do make a scratchy sound, one more than the other. ohm meter shows con. there not compleatly fried but they are a little toasted

catmat10_2

Thanks for the replys. to Schurkey, I'm fairly certain the magnets have not shifted, the cones move freely but do make a scratchy sound, one more than the other. ohm meter shows con. there not compleatly fried but they are a little toasted

Mr. Bubbles

I see both sides here. from a total cost standpoint it would be much better to look for some more. Just drivers being $900 (6 tweets and 12 m/w's) not including cost of crossover parts. But back out the tweets (if the OP was planning on doing that) you're now at $600 and now factor out the two defective drivers (since op would presumably be purchasing those two anyway); $500. Still not including any crossover components. Considering the OP was (probably, but not definitely) planning to upgrade the crossovers there would be 1 extra inductor to look for in the tweeter circuit. In the MW/ dim circuit there would be 2 additional inductors assuming the original sub bass inductor be re-used (again this could be upgraded as well but it is not necessary for the conversion as it is very close in both units; 15.8mH vs 16mH.)

from a pure cost standpoint i would probably look for some more. But considering the ability to sell off the remaining drivers, keeping in kind the op still has 2 good 6513's and that they could potentially bring much more money than the others. It would also be a good option to convert these (assuming you could possibly recoup half the driver cost by selling off the old ones. that only leaves the crossover inductors, which as has been shown by DK fairly recently, these can be improved upon for not a whole lot of money.

I would say it would come down to which sound do you like the best. I have heard neither the 2.3 or the 2.3TL but they appear, from what I have read and studied, to be totally different animals. I would assume from that, that they have totally different sounds.

I also would assume (like Shurkey) that the 6513 is probably a modded 6511 (or possibly another common driver of the time) The simplest way to get some evidence to support this (but this would definitely not prove it) would be to measure the DCR of each on the good drivers in the working cabinet. If this theory is correct, the DCR of both should be the same or extremely close (given tolerances). If they are not, no further thought need be given to this theory. Also Polk CS could possibly answer this as well or even have a couple of left over drivers. never know, it can't hurt to ask.

Kind of a toss up with all things figured in. Glad I'm not the one dealing with that one. Good luck though and once the stress is over have fun along the way.

Schurkey

If the voice coils are "scratchy", it's almost certainly because the magnet/pole pieces have shifted slightly. This MIGHT be repairable, although there's no guarantee, and it will not be any fun. Considering the scarcity of good used drivers, and lack of new ones, If I didn't want to upgrade to TL status, I'd be ALL OVER repairing what I had.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?135716-Let-s-Try-to-Fix-a-MW6511-Damaged-in-Shipping...

(My post with photos in that thread is #85. As I write this, it's the last post in the thread.)

Mr. Bubbles wrote: »

Just drivers being $900 (6 tweets and 12 m/w's) not including cost of crossover parts. But back out the tweets (if the OP was planning on doing that) you're now at $600 and now factor out the two defective drivers (since op would presumably be purchasing those two anyway); $500.

Assuming he doesn't fix the donut drivers, and chooses to convert to 2.3TL status, why are you suggesting he buy 12 mid-woofers? He already owns four 6510s, he would need eight more to replace the donut drivers (4 each) and the 6511s (four each) total of eight mid-woofers. Since he's got to do two regardless, that's six additional midwoofers, not ten to convert to 2.3TL status. $300 additional, not $500. Resale of the four 6511s and two remaining good 6513s will offset a considerable part of the cost of the new 6510s.

Mr. Bubbles

Schurkey wrote: »

Assuming he doesn't fix the donut drivers, and chooses to convert to 2.3TL status, why are you suggesting he buy 12 mid-woofers? He already owns four 6510s, he would need eight more to replace the donut drivers (4 each) and the 6511s (four each) total of eight mid-woofers. Since he's got to do two regardless, that's six additional midwoofers, not ten to convert to 2.3TL status. $300 additional, not $500. Resale of the four 6511s and two remaining good 6513s will offset a considerable part of the cost of the new 6510s.

You are correct, i was in a hurry typing and figuring and missed allowing for the four existing 6510's after i started i intended on subtracting all useable or non necessary parts out. i missed that. Thanks for the correction.

Mr. Bubbles

To the OP. If you do decide to upgrade these as discussed here or for whatever reason sell the old parts. I am in need of a 6511 and wouldn't mind having an extra or two. for that matter, to anyone else who may have a (or multiple) 6511's they don't need. Please let me know.