Is there a "BEST" SRS speaker??

naturallight
naturallight Posts: 689
edited February 2013 in Vintage Speakers
We have the 1.2TL, the 2.3TL and the 3.1TL. I get the feelings these different models were made, pretty much because most people just did not have the space for 1.2's nore the power to really push them. I don't think the "technology" is radically different between them, but that could be completely wrong.

Is there a best of the best, or are we talking person preference, or are we talking if you don't have the room size for them to "breath" don't even think about them. Even my 1C's don't work all that well in a small room.

If i want to go up from 1C's..it has to be one of these models. But which one do i shot for?

If it really comes down to room size. My room is 17X30, but there is also an opening to my other music room on one side of the wall. The ceiling is about 7 1/2 feet high, dropped acoustical tile.



My 1c's work more then fine in that room. I don't "think" the 1.2's would run out of "breathing space" but i'm not sure. Dose anybody have an opinion on these models as to which ones they like or don't like, or what there preference would be??
Post edited by naturallight on
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,559
    edited February 2013
    30 x 17 is not a small room, any of the 3 should be fine. I prefer the 2.3TL's as they seem a bit more musical.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited February 2013
    Don't forget the SRS 2's, they are not the TL models, but a very good all around SDA. Think of the 1C's on steroids.
  • naturallight
    naturallight Posts: 689
    edited February 2013
    Thanks F1 for the info. Good to know the room should handle any of the speakers.

    If you say the 2.3TL's are more musical..I believe you...LOL



    Question..or a couple of questions..LOL Do the2.3's use the same MW6511 drivers the 1C's do?

    would tend to sell my 1c's if i can find a set of 2.3's ...BUT..if they use the same drivers..mine are original..i would tend to keep the 1c's for parts...which is pretty nasty to pillage a set of 1C's..BUT



    The other question would be power. I use an Onkyo M504 to power the 1C's...not a problem, works great. The 2.3's..not so sure. I'm not sure i want to jump to the Carver camp to get the 300+ watts. Not sure i really like the sound from the Carver stuff..but don't want to under power the speakers and kill the M504 or clip the speakers.



    To power the 1C's..the M504 is bouncing off the 50 watt setting..if the meters are correct at all. BUT that is really LOUD..your up to between the 10:30 and 11:30 oclock position on the pre. Depending on the source CD..this is REALLY loud. Probably ALOT louder then most people really want to hear.



    BUT the 1C's are 6 Ohm, the 2.3's are 8....don't want to damage the speakers or the amp. Plus the general rule is more power is always better.
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited February 2013
    Don't know if you are located but, here's a nice pair, worth the money http://denver.craigslist.org/ele/3585029163.html
  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited February 2013
    Thanks F1 for the info. Good to know the room should handle any of the speakers.

    If you say the 2.3TL's are more musical..I believe you...LOL



    Question..or a couple of questions..LOL Do the2.3's use the same MW6511 drivers the 1C's do?

    would tend to sell my 1c's if i can find a set of 2.3's ...BUT..if they use the same drivers..mine are original..i would tend to keep the 1c's for parts...which is pretty nasty to pillage a set of 1C's..BUT



    The other question would be power. I use an Onkyo M504 to power the 1C's...not a problem, works great. The 2.3's..not so sure. I'm not sure i want to jump to the Carver camp to get the 300+ watts. Not sure i really like the sound from the Carver stuff..but don't want to under power the speakers and kill the M504 or clip the speakers.



    To power the 1C's..the M504 is bouncing off the 50 watt setting..if the meters are correct at all. BUT that is really LOUD..your up to between the 10:30 and 11:30 oclock position on the pre. Depending on the source CD..this is REALLY loud. Probably ALOT louder then most people really want to hear.



    BUT the 1C's are 6 Ohm, the 2.3's are 8....don't want to damage the speakers or the amp. Plus the general rule is more GOOD QUALITY power is always better.


    Fixed it for you
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited February 2013
    Yes they are :cheesygrin:
    And all of the mw drivers are 6510 that's a big plus in case you want to stick back a few replacements JIC:cool:
    F1nut wrote: »
    30 x 17 is not a small room, any of the 3 should be fine. I prefer the 2.3TL's as they seem a bit more musical.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited February 2013
    All drivers are MW6510 in 2.3tls.
    Don't play them so loud as to damage them or your ears, my 2.3tls are on an Onyko NR808 if I do play it louder it's it two channel direct mode.
    There is nothing wrong with (my) 1C.
    They are not my 2.3tls but I could get by just fine if I needed to , just do the x-overs and the tweets and spike those guys!!
    Have you read this book ......http://vr3mods.com/uploads/SDA_Handbook_2011_Rev2.pdf
    It's a pdf give it a minute or two to load.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited February 2013
    Yes there is.







    Mine!!






    :twisted:
  • Mr. Bubbles
    Mr. Bubbles Posts: 736
    edited February 2013
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Yes there is.







    Mine!!






    :twisted:




    No truer statement here. Like I've read and heard many times; the best ones are the ones you own or are able to obtain for your listening pleasure.
    If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of Progress?!


    Monitor 5Jr, Monitor 5, RTA12, RTA 15TL, SDA 2A, 1c, SRS 2, 1.2TL, CRS, Atrium.
  • naturallight
    naturallight Posts: 689
    edited February 2013
    Thanks mike but i live in GA..kind of in nomans land for stereo. I have a mustang..i can put my Advents in there..thats about it...LOL

    I will have to pay for transport of these speakers..no matter what.



    I also "ASSUME" the SRS speakers are pretty much going to kick my butt..as compared to my 1C's

    As that would be pretty depressing if they didn't......



    If i spend the money to get them here...and they don't sound much better the the 1C's...then that would be really nasty.



    If i redo the 1C's...then maybe how far off from the 3.1's do they sound?



    Not sure any answer is right, but i can't spend dime one for at least 6 months at this point.
  • michael1947
    michael1947 Posts: 775
    edited February 2013
    The answer to your original question is: the one you have. It's kind of like with girls, love the one you're with...the best girl is the one you have. Your 1c's are your best girls and as you move around the world you may bump into some others you have an interest in. When some of the big SDA's come up for sale in your area go listen to them and if you like them buy em. Try and not be bothered with what someone else thinks of your speakers or your girl.:wink:
    Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
    Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.

    Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's.
  • naturallight
    naturallight Posts: 689
    edited February 2013
    OK..so now your telling me that all the drivers in 2.3's are all MW6510's...why the hell did they make the MW6511 for the 1C's??? What was the purpose??



    10's you can get on Ebay..pretty easy..11's....almost not.



    Just a stupid question..why???



    The 3.1's are not so far off the mark from the 1C's..the cab size or whatever is not that far away..plus the fact it only has 1 more driver in it, an lacks the other tweeter..i'm not sure what the deal is......

    the PR is the same size in the 3.1 ...In some things here..i just don't get it.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,559
    edited February 2013
    BUT the 1C's are 6 Ohm, the 2.3's are 8....don't want to damage the speakers or the amp. Plus the general rule is more power is always better.

    The 2.3TL's are 6 ohm nominal and as NJPOLKER stated, quality over quantity.

    If i spend the money to get them here...and they don't sound much better the the 1C's...then that would be really nasty.

    Don't worry, the 2.3TL's will not disappoint you.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,081
    edited February 2013
    The manual states 2.3TL's are 8 ohm.
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,337
    edited February 2013
    I own the SRS 2.3's and have heard the 2.3 TLs extensively. You will hear differing opinions on this subject. Both sound very good. I prefer the SRS 2.3s, I think they are a little smoother. Mine have had extensive modifications. You can't go wrong either way. It's more a matter of taste and maybe perception. Everything matters. So if you hear the SRS or the TLs in a different room environment, different electronics, source, etc. all of the affect the sound of the speakers. If you were in the market. I would consider the size of your room, proper placement as most important. Just because it's a TL won't make it sound better, that may be a matter of taste as both speakers are only slightly different to my ear. I believe the SRS 2.3a are smoother than their TL equivalent. YMMV. As for the SRS or the TLs I would look for the speaker in the best operating condition, physical appearance and of course price.

    Good luck!
    Carl

  • oldmodman
    oldmodman Posts: 740
    edited February 2013
    The best Polk speaker in the world is the one you are listening to right now.

    Would that make the next Polk speaker you get the "next best"?

    I have almost finished collecting my Polk speakers. If I ever come across a pair of 1.2s I'll grab them too.

    In the meantime it's "Mod Time"
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited February 2013
    The 2.3TL's are the best in the SRS series, IMO (although it's been many years since hearing the 1.2TL's). I own the 3.1TL's 2.3TL's and I have just about the same size room as you naturallight and they sound phenominal. If you buy the ones in the linked page above, you will be happy. Although, I would ask the seller what caps/resistors he redid the crossovers with.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited February 2013
    headrott wrote: »
    The 2.3TL's are the best in the SRS series, IMO (although it's been many years since hearing the 1.2TL's). I own the 3.1TL's 2.3TL's and I have just about the same size room as you naturallight and they sound phenominal. If you buy the ones in the linked page above, you will be happy. Although, I would ask the seller what caps/resistors he redid the crossovers with.

    All the caps are Daytons, (pictures in the c.l. add) not sure on the resistors. I'm sure the new Daytons still outperform the old originals.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,559
    edited February 2013
    The manual states 2.3TL's are 8 ohm.

    No, it says, "Compatible with 8 ohm outputs." That means they are 6 ohm nominal.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,081
    edited February 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    No, it says, "Compatible with 8 ohm outputs." That means they are 6 ohm nominal.

    How about the product page:
    Total Frequency Response 12Hz-26kHz
    Upper -3dB Limit 25 kHz
    Lower -3dB Limit 30 Hz
    Nominal Impedance 8 ohms
    Efficiency 90 dB
    Recommended Amplifier Power 50-750 watts per channel
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,559
    edited February 2013
    That would be wrong then.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,559
    edited February 2013
    I have the original sales brochure for the TL series as well as the owners manual. They both state, "Compatible with 8 ohm outputs"

    Polk did that for marketing and to ease confusion from the average Joe.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,081
    edited February 2013
    Also page 26 of the SDA Handbook states Polk raised the imp from 6 to 8 ohms.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,559
    edited February 2013
    Believe what you want, they are 6 ohm nominal.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited February 2013
    F1, that applicable to all the SRS TL models or just the 2.3TL's?

    I've been curious what my 3.1's should nominally be. I assumed they were 6 ohm normal.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,559
    edited February 2013
    All TL's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • naturallight
    naturallight Posts: 689
    edited February 2013
    Thanks for the info guys. Glad to now the room will handle any of the SRS speakers.



    But my plans have just changed. As luck would have it (or more to the point, lack there of) my furnace just bit the big one. I spent yesterday running around and getting space heats so the house dose not freeze. I was hopeing it would last a few more years...but not the case.

    So any plans for SRS speakers this year, pretty much went out the window with the furnace...

    About all i can afford now is a set of spikes for the 1C's...Maybe in a few months i can upgrade the tweeters..LOL



    This "hobby" can pretty much drive you nuts..LOL I mean really nobody "NEEDS" a set of SRS's

    I have a perfectly good set of 1C's sitting there, that really sound fine. My wife already thinks i'm nuts, as i have 3 sets of speakers sitting down there, and either the 1C's or the RTi12's will rattle the floors upstairs. To tell her i need even bigger speakers, would be a stretch..except i could use the ploy of..well if i find the right ones..then i would sell off all the other speakers...LOL



    Which of course probably would never happen..
  • Bugstyvy
    Bugstyvy Posts: 119
    edited February 2013
    Thanks for the info guys. Glad to now the room will handle any of the SRS speakers.



    But my plans have just changed. As luck would have it (or more to the point, lack there of) my furnace just bit the big one. I spent yesterday running around and getting space heats so the house dose not freeze. I was hopeing it would last a few more years...but not the case.

    So any plans for SRS speakers this year, pretty much went out the window with the furnace...

    About all i can afford now is a set of spikes for the 1C's...Maybe in a few months i can upgrade the tweeters..LOL



    This "hobby" can pretty much drive you nuts..LOL I mean really nobody "NEEDS" a set of SRS's

    I have a perfectly good set of 1C's sitting there, that really sound fine. My wife already thinks i'm nuts, as i have 3 sets of speakers sitting down there, and either the 1C's or the RTi12's will rattle the floors upstairs. To tell her i need even bigger speakers, would be a stretch..except i could use the ploy of..well if i find the right ones..then i would sell off all the other speakers...LOL



    Which of course probably would never happen..

    It is always better to ask for forgiveness than permission.....
    Mcintosh MC2300
    Mcintosh 2105
    Integra Pre amp 9.8
    Pro-ject Record Player
    Sony 200 disc CD Changer
    Basic Wiring
    60" Samsung Series 8
    SDA-1.2TL
    SDA-3.1TL (unused at the moment)
  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited February 2013
    F1nut wrote: »
    All TL's.

    My 1.2 TL's are on the 8 ohm taps of my tube amp. Should they be on the 4 ohm taps instead?
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
  • naturallight
    naturallight Posts: 689
    edited February 2013
    I'm not sure why i bought the RTi12's to replace SDA speakers. That was a bad choice on my part.



    I mean there is really nothing wrong with the RTi12's, i was just down listening to them again.

    They will in fact shake my dropped ceiling..LOL if pushed. BUT..there not SDA's or my 1C's.

    I played them thru a few CD's..but i got to the point of..this is just not great. Put the 1c's back in play

    then things were good.

    I'm not sure what to sell the RTI 12's for...they cost me 800 +from polk there only a little over a year old and just have not been used that much. I'm down in GA nomans land for stereo..plus nobody has money for this stuff. But i figure $650 is about what i can let them go for.

    Not sure anybody would buy them down here..but i don't feel i can let them go for less.

    Just my stupid problem to pick them out, for speakers i knew i could not replace in the first place.

    Plus the fact..you can't run these speakers on some crap AVR..they will not work to well. You need a good size high current power amp to make them work.



    I may throw them on CL...see if anybody bite's..but $650 is firm...so don't hold to much hope on that..LOL

    If they sell..well i can put some of the money at the furnace..then maybe spend the other on tweeters...LOL