Ok, this is what i have so far "disreguard other posts"

MrDHEJ

1999 Chevy Silverado

Speakers:
Polk MM6 (front)
Polk MC460 (rear)
Polk MM124 (sub)
JL Stealthbox "filled for 0.88 volume"

Amps:
US Amps TU-600 "150x2 4ohm" (front).
US Amps USA-200x "50x2 4ohm" (rear).
US Amps USA-600x "600 Bridged into 4 Ohms" (sub).

Power:
0g from battery to 1 fared cap with 125amp inline at battery.
0g from cap to fused distro block.
4g from distro to USA-600x with 50amp fuse.
4g from distro block to USA-200x with 25amp fuse.
4g from distro block to TU-600 with 50amp fuse.

Ground:
0g from battery to frame. "under the hood".
0g from frame, to cab, to distro block inside near amps and cap.
0g from cap to distro block.
4g from distro to all amps.

Speaker wire:
12g Streetwires twisted speakerwire to all speakers.

Interconnects:
3 sets of 12' Streewires Zero-Noise 6.

Please correct me if i have missed something here.

Is sound dampening worth the money and trouble of installing it? Is dynamat the way to go or are the other brands just as good.

MrDHEJ

BTW, i really want to thank you all for helping me here. This is one great place!

I hope some of you live close to me, cause when i'm done ya gota hear it.

sntnsupermen131

whats the 0 from battery to frame?
also, you dont want to make the ground so long from the distro
it could cause ground loops
you can just screw it to the floor of the cab right next to the amps, itd save u a lil bit of money on wiring, and the shorter the better
also, you want the usamps1000, not the 1000x
with the 1000x youll be pushing 1000watts
1000 watts to a 400 watt speaker isnt good
i believe the 1000 is 500x1@4
thats what ya need
but correct me if im wrong
if you go to best buy, they have little dynamat kits that just install around your 6 1/2s, id advise those, but sound proofing your vehicle costs a lot of money
what it helps is
1. provides more insulation so your vehicle well cool/heat faster, and stay cool or hot longer
2. you wont be able to hear outside noises as much
3. make it louder since no noise well be "escaping"
4. and of course, deadens any vibrations
-Cody

sntnsupermen131

Streetwires 3.5 Interconnects--$50
-Cody

MrDHEJ

MM2124
Overall Frequency Response 23-200
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 400 w
Power Handling (peak) 800 w

Am i wrong in thinking that this speaker couldn't handle most of the 1000watts?

NO! You tell ME if i'm wrong.

MrDHEJ

btw, the 12' interconntes are only $35 a peice. 15 bucks cheaper then the 16ft.

I'll start dampening then. I'll do a little at a time since it's cold right now and i don't have a garage to do this in.

As far as the ground from battery to frame, just making sure there is a CLEAN low resistance from battery to frame. Then in the back right below the amps i was going to run 0g from frame to cab to distro block. Should be under 18".

sntnsupermen131

before you get the 12ft, get a piece of 12 ft wire(any kind) and make sure itll work, i know 12 ft sounds like a lot, but it goes from the back of the radio, all the way down to the firewall, under the carpet, etc
i have a 96 gmc extended cab and i dont know if the 12 would fit, i bought a pair of SW 5.0s, im not at home though so i cant tell you how long they are, but i think they were 16ft, and i dont think i had 4ft to spare
and as for the 1000watts
no they cannot handle it
they handle 800 watts MAX
that means if it plays at 900watts, your sub is toast
it plays at 400 watts RMS
the RMS rating IS the ONLY rating you need to look at
its 400watts
the 1000 puts out 500x1@4ohms
thats perfect for that sub, it can handle 500, it cant handle 1000, not by a long shot
-Cody

sntnsupermen131

one more thing, if its REAL cold
be EXTREMELY careful about taking off panels
they are very vulnerable to breaking in cold weather
-Cody

MrDHEJ

12' will actully be about 3' to much. I've already done the string trick. They need to be about 8 feet. On the silverado it doesn't need to go all the way to the firewall, can run it thru the center console and cut a hole in the carpet to run it the rest of the way to the back.

I've been in the automotive industry for awhile now, i know how the cold and plastic can make panel removal a nightmare. But that's where the Ungar 800degree heat gun comes in handy.

Ok the USA-1000 it is then. But if i'm underpowered...

sntnsupermen131

i see, yeah the console can shorten thinks up a bit
makes it cheaper on you!
and less loss signal b/t the HU and the amp and less chance of noise interferring
as long as you know about the panels:)
and im 99% sure about getting the 1000, not the 1000x, if im right, youll be 100 watts over the RMS rating, which for that sub, is fine
unless the ratings on the USamps site are peak ratings too, which is doubtful
-Cody

MrDHEJ

well, this is a quote from MTXMAN

if it's a 4 ohm sub get the 1000x, if it's a 2 ohm sub(dual 4ohm vc's) get the 1000... simple

The MM2124 is a 4omh so that means the 1000x

sntnsupermen131

ok, i just checked out the website
the USA 1000 puts out 500 wattsx1 @4 ohms bridged
the USA 1000X puts out 1000 wattsx1 @4 ohms
he must have had a brain ****, happens to everyone
the only way you will need a 1000X is if USAmps posted the wrong information on their website
-Cody

MrDHEJ

BTW, what ype fuses should i use? ANL, MAXI, etc...

I'm sitting here adding up how much the wire, fuse holders, interconnect, and other stuff is going to cost and i'm up to about 400 bucks already... geesh louise.

sntnsupermen131

for the 2 smaller amps, youre going to need AGU fuses, if you can find one thats rated at 75(which shouldnt be too hard)
for the 1000, youre probably going to need an anl fuse, because its so big
and for the one by the battery, defintely anl
and when installing ur stuff, install fuses last, if something sparks, it could blow your fuses, and youd be out more time and money
-Cody

MTXMAN

Those are RMS values for the US Amps with the power issue for one single 4 ohm vc sub with the specs of that momo you may want to consider the 600x, this amp will put out 200w over the rms value of that sub and the only spec that is different between the 600x and the 1000x is that the dampening factor drops from 800 to 600 if you get the 600x. while this seems like a big drop 600 is still considered in the "very good" range for dampening factors. This amp may be a better choice for you. One reason is that it's easier on your electrical system, you'll drop from about a 65 amp average for your sub amp to an average draw of 35 amps. with your current sub selection i think the 600x would be a better choice.

Cody, with all due respect it'd be a waste of his money to run the 1000 with that sub when there's a less expensive amp that puts out 100 more wats at 4 ohms. I'm a firm believer that when it comes to US Amps that you should only use the x series with a 4 ohm load and the regular series with a 2 ohm load, anything else would be uncivilized (grey pupon anyone ;p)

Again the only sacrifice you'd have by dropping to the 600x is a slight (possibly even unnoticable) drop in dampening, however you'll gain headroom in your electrical system and save some space and money, money needed to dampen your car. (hehehe, i just used two different car audio definations of dampen in the same paragraph ;p) As far as that goes i'd reccomend stripping the entire enterior of your truck when you do the install and get one of the spray on dampening materials, the best thing you can do for dampening (what most of the SPL guys do) is use rhino liner through the interior of the vehicle, however the spray on from dynamat of Rockford Fosgate would work just fine for your application and be much easier and less time consuming to apply than standard dynamat. (either way find an online seller to save cash)

Hope this all helps

MTXMAN

Originally posted by sntnsupermen131
ok, i just checked out the website
the USA 1000 puts out 500 wattsx1 @4 ohms bridged
the USA 1000X puts out 1000 wattsx1 @4 ohms
he must have had a brain ****, happens to everyone
the only way you will need a 1000X is if USAmps posted the wrong information on their website
-Cody

Brain **** was related to the sub, at the time of the origional advice he was looking at a sub that could handle almost 1000w so that's where the advice came from on that. the advice on ohm load was not a brainfart cause it's a waste of money to run the 1000 at one ohm, that's not what it was made for. as my post directly above this says, he's much better off with the 600x. that way he's getting the full potential of the amp

sntnsupermen131

actually, after looking at all the amps, id go with the 600X, or even the 400X
the sub is rated at 400, so the 400X would match up perfectly spec for spec
but it could probably take 550ish watts, which would be closer to the 600X, and youd have a lot more headroom with the 600X
if you have the money, 600X, just turn the gain down a little
if money is an issue, 400X
and on the wiring, instead of having 1 distroblock running 2 amps and a straight wire going to the other one from the cap
see if you can find a fused block that has 1 1/0awg input and 3 4awg outputs, it would look a little neater and probably save you a little too
-Cody

MrDHEJ

I can see now where we got confused. None of us was dead set on a sub for the JL stealthbox.

So for the 1.25 to 1.5 cubd feet of volume were all in agreement that the MM2124 would be the best choice? "except for having to fill the box some"

And to drive said best choice sub the 600x would be the more "civilized" choice?

I never though about rhinolining the interior. $600 bucks it would cost at least. ouch.

sntnsupermen131

sorry about the confusion mrdehj
what happened was mtx thought you were running a 1000 watt sub(but ur running a 400 watt sub)
and i had a brain **** too
i didnt look at the other amps like i shouldve
u wouldve gotten the 1000, which does what you needed it to, but not really what its designed to do to get everything from that amp
-Cody

sntnsupermen131

Originally posted by MrDHEJ
I can see now where we got confused. None of us was dead set on a sub for the JL stealthbox.

So for the 1.25 to 1.5 cubd feet of volume were all in agreement that the MM2124 would be the best choice? "except for having to fill the box some"

And to drive said best choice sub the 600x would be the more "civilized" choice?

yes, but if space permitted, instead of the mm2124, like at the mm124, handles 500 watts, i have 2 of them
so compare the dimensions of the box and sub
and youd still go with the same amp
-Cody

sntnsupermen131

is the box sealed or ported?
-Cody

MrDHEJ

How much better is the MM124 vs the MM2124, the price is almost double. But either of those subs will still take the 600x?

The stealthbox is sealed. JL Audio told be volume was between 1.25 and 1.5 cud feets

sntnsupermen131

well you to try and get JL to tell you the exact volume with displacement of the sub if you can
the displacement of the JL sub versus the momo will be close enough not to matter
the mm124 is the highest grade you can get as far as polk goes
it handles more power, and although i havent heard the 2124s, most likely sounds a lot better too
either way, you are going to need to drop the volume in the box to get as close to .88 as you can
both of the subs from polk need .88 to work to their best of their abilites
all you have to do to reduce space is get some 2x4 boards, anything like that, and screw it down inside the box
you want it screwed down cuz if not itll hit the sub and damage it
but measure whatever put in there, a 2x4 is never really 2in by 4in
-Cody

MrDHEJ

Is 4g going to be way overkill to power the amps? Are the connectors for 4g going to fit on the amps?

MrDHEJ

Oh, since i'm not going to be using the 1000 now do i still need a cap?

MrDHEJ

Holy sheeeet batman!

Gonna end up spending $600 bucks on interconnect, distro block, fused blocks, etc etc.

That's more then a frign amp!

Pass the KY please.

MrDHEJ

Ok, just to make sure i got this right on the fuses.

250amp ANL at battery
80amp AGU for TU-600
80amp AGU for USA-600x
50amp AGU for USA-400

Sound good?

BTW, will the Streetwires Inter-Loc connectors fit on these amps?
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/STRRTI4

MrDHEJ

sntnsupermen131, i was going to order from www.mitekfactoryoutlet.com like you sugested for the streetwires 3.5... till i clicked checkout.

Streetwires GT0 Ground Terminal 1/0 Gauge
$19.99/each x2 $39.98

Streetwires 14751 ZeroNoise® 3.5 Interconnects 12 FT $35.00/each x3 $105.00

Streetwires 14760 ZeroNoise® 3.5 Interconnects 16 FT
$50.00/each x3 $150.00

Your Order Subtotal: $294.98
Shipping and Handling $48.25
Your Order Total: $343.23

$50 bucks for shipping? are they high?
anyway, i went to streetwires web site and they don't even list the 3.5. But i did find the streetwires zero noise 6 at www.sounddomain.com for just a few bucks more, AND shipping for 6 cables, and a TON of other stuff was only 12 bucks.


Also, the faq at streetwires said for every 500watts of power a 1 fared cap should be used, does that meen i need a 3 fared cap?

Sorry for the ton of questions, i'm just getting antsy on getting this thing fired up

sntnsupermen131

actually i would call usamps about what wiring to use
id imagine you could fit 4awg in all of them cept maybe the 400
id still recommend a 1.0 farad cap, nothing more, nothing less
and the 250A fuse by the battery is too much
i dont know what exact amp fuse you need, but itll be like a 100-150A
poweredbydodge can figure it out better than i can
why are you getting 6 sets of patch cables?
and if you can get stuff at sounddomain for cheaper, go for it, theyre a good company, i ordered a lot of my wiring accessories from them
and as far as farads per watts
i havent heard 1 farad per 500 watts
ive heard 1 farad per 750 watts
i personally go with 1 farad per 1000 watts
you have 600 for the sub amp, 300 for the component amp, and 100 for the 4x6 amps
thats 1000 watts exactly
1 farad will do you good
-Cody

sntnsupermen131

the 600X has an amp rating of 75
and you have two of those
so thats 150
plus the 400 has an amp rating of 50
so a 200A fuse by the battery, no more, possibly less
i have a 150A fuse, the fuse ratings on my amps add of to 170A
id say 200A
-Cody

MrDHEJ

I'm getting 3 sets for my truck 12', and 3 sets for my wifes Maxima 16'. Remember, i'm giving her car a dose of the wattage for a christmas present. Won't be able to do it completly in one shot, but she sure will be surprized a few times over the next few months. The speakers first MM6's in the front, and MMC650's for the rear. Then later on i'll throw the TU-4360 in there without telling her. Then finnaly the stealthbox with a USA-600x and a MM104 10" sub. She'll be happy. Can't wait to see her face when she flips that radio on and get a dose of the bass.

Yeah your right on my wattage, some reason i was thinking about the 1000x and 600 watts from the TU-600, but that will only be 300 as you said.

I did go ahead and email US Amps on there recomendation as far as gauge size and fuse ratings. So i'll wait to get the power wires till i hear back from them. I hope they do take 4g wire, streetwires makes some nifty terminals for 4g wire. http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/STRRTI4