CS1000P Resister Value?

codymaxfield
codymaxfield Posts: 13
edited January 2013 in Troubleshooting
I have a CS1000P that had a couple of resisters burn up, and I need to know the value of them so I can repair it. The board is B2375 and it is resister R22 and R23. I got a schematic from Helen Yarbor at Polk, but it is too blurry to read any of the numbers. If anyone can help I would really appreciate it. The resisters in the pics are not the right value.

Sincerely,

Cody
2013-01-11 17.35.54.jpg
2013-01-11 17.36.04.jpg
Post edited by codymaxfield on
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited January 2013
    I take it you're not a service tech since you can't spell resistor. I'd suggest you send the board to Polk for repair.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    Sorry I guess I have become lazy and assumed that everything had a spell check. Does anyone else have a CS-1000P?
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited January 2013
    That board looks like it's toast - don't know that it's repairable. Better follow F1nut's advice.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited January 2013
    don't the color bands denote the value? I agree that board got WAY TOO HOT and yet the resistor doesn't look like it got hot...strange
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  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,648
    edited January 2013
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    don't the color bands denote the value? I agree that board got WAY TOO HOT and yet the resistor doesn't look like it got hot...strange

    I am pretty sure that the resistors are not the originals. He notes that they are not the correct value and it looks like the leads were just stuck through the pcb and then I am assuming soldered directly to the pcb on the backside.

    But, I concur. That PCB is toast. I wouldn't try to repair that board at all. Either see if Polk can send you a replacement board, you can find one online or send it back to Polk for repair/replacement.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited January 2013
    I'm sorry, I didn't enlarge the pictures before commenting.....wow, that board is indeed toast. Looks like C9 melted as well. Call Polk to see if they can replace the entire board.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    Thank you for all of the replies, but this board is repairable. The board itself doesn't make up any part of the circuit. Damaged traces can be replaced with wire and components are expendable.

    I have attached a photo of boards that I normally work on. Badly damaged, but fully repairable.

    The second photo is the back side of the board B2375. If anyone with a CS-1000P could take a nice high resolution photo of the topside of the board it would be greatly appreciated.
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    2013-01-15 10.54.18.jpg
    2013-01-15 10.57.22.jpg
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  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,648
    edited January 2013
    codymaxfield wrote: »
    Thank you for all of the replies, but this board is repairable. The board itself doesn't make up any part of the circuit. Damaged traces can be replaced with wire and components are expendable.

    I have attached a photo of boards that I normally work on. Badly damaged, but fully repairable.

    The second photo is the back side of the board B2375. If anyone with a CS-1000P could take a nice high resolution photo of the topside of the board it would be greatly appreciated.

    As a temporary measure, sure. But to do a half-assed repair like that is only setting the component up for more failure.
    If jumping bad traces were an acceptable repair method then repair depots would simply solder wires and loose dangling capacitors and resistors to boards and not both replacing them.
    There is a reason that board traces are covered with a layer of pcb material. It is to protect them from humidity flouctuations which cause corrosion and oxidation of the trace materials which are usually copper or nickel/tin and oxidize quite easily.

    To each their own, really. But if you are going to repair something, why not do it right the first time and not set the component up for repeated future failure? Only "good" reason I can think of is to garner repeat business.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    Thank you for your opinion ZLTFUL, but what I am actually looking for is the resistor value of R22 and R23 on board B2375.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited January 2013
    When a board gets THAT HOT to actually melt the PCB something or someone did something that is WAY beyond normal. The second set of pictures show the first PCB that has been so hot that it bubbled plastic,flux and to my eyes made a mess way beyond any "repair" that should be made in any good faith....IT'S TOAST. Why were the resistors in the first photo? Why did that cap melt? Heck all those caps in that area looks like they went supernova. You mention that you contacted Polk CS they are the best on the planet. I and others think you are wasting time with that board.

    all the info you need is right here on the forum

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?38755-POLK-AUDIO-Speaker-Wiring-Schematics-amp-More-ALL-MODELS-except-SDA

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?54252-Crossover-Diagram-for-CS1000P

    all i did was google and got all the info you would need simple stuff so i hope you're better at repairing than searching for the answer that lies right before youe eyes.....
    good luck have 911 on standby....

    be sure to used the right resistors the ones you showed are not the right resistors. Let me suggest Mills 12w wire wound.
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    pitdogg2,

    Thank you for trying to help. Both documents that you have found are for the passive crossover. I have already found that information, and it does not apply to what I am trying to repair. The B2375 is part of the amplifier/ active crossover for the two subs. I bought this speaker second hand and can only assume that it was played way too loud for far too long. The resistors that I took out were 1/2 watt and the two that I put in the pic were 1/4 watt. I just wanted to see if it would turn on.

    Attached is the correct schematic, it is just too blurry to read.
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  • ambiophonics
    ambiophonics Posts: 726
    edited January 2013
    Resistors generally burn up for a reason...
    2 Channel - Polk SDA-2BTL, Carver TFM-35, Peachtree iDAC, Qobuz streamed via Episode Lynk using bubble UPnP server
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited January 2013
    Kenneth Swauger can you clarify this I see what he means you can't tell squat on that schematic
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited January 2013
    Hello,
    I'm working with Polk's CS guys to determine what they are.
    Regards, Ken
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited January 2013
    Thanks Ken.
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    Thank you Ken. If they have a higher resolution schematic available I would like a copy.

    Cody
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    pitdogg2,

    Thanks for getting Ken for me.
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited January 2013
    Hello,
    Are you able to tell what the color bands are on the resistors?
    Ken
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    The resistors must be discolored, because I can't get the color code to work out.

    Gray, White, Brown, Black. This doesn't work because black can't be the fourth band.

    Black, Brown, White, Gray/Silver. This doesn't work because white can't be the third band.

    I will have some pics in a minute.

    Cody
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited January 2013
    Polk's engineering guys are trying to see if they have a better copy.
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    Here are some pics. The brown band is not very red when compared to a new resistor with a red band.
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  • Msabot1
    Msabot1 Posts: 2,098
    edited January 2013
    Replace the board,easier that way,but backtrack to find out what caused it to fry! Probably too much current into the circuit! What dose the fried board control?
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    Kenneth Swauger,

    Have you heard anything back from the engineering guys at Polk?

    Cody
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited January 2013
    Hi Cody,
    No, not yet. The contact person is Kim Jasper at kjasper@polkaudio.com. you can communicate directly with him, if you'd like. I know he had asked the engineering for a better version of the schematic. It is possible the engineering folks will have to contact the vendor for one.
    Cheers, Ken
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited January 2013
    I've just asked Polk if there's been any progress, so far.
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    I hope they have something soon!
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited January 2013
    They both are 680 Ohm 1 Watt resistors.
    PM me your email address and I'll forward a better copy of the schematic.
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  • codymaxfield
    codymaxfield Posts: 13
    edited January 2013
    You are awesome! Thank you so much.
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