LS90 Tweaks and upgrades

2»

Comments

  • wallstreet
    wallstreet Posts: 1,405
    edited January 2013
    The interesting part here is how are we going to do the A/B testing when you're done? :)
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited January 2013
    Nice to see the LS-90's getting some love.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited January 2013
    wallstreet wrote: »
    The interesting part here is how are we going to do the A/B testing when you're done? :)

    They already sounded great but I will know how I like the differences.

    Spikes will tighten up bass.

    New caps and resistors should sweeten the entire spectrum.

    Dynamat will probably not make that much difference since there is not a lot of ringing in the baskets as it is, but its piece of mind and may aid in bass response.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • stubby
    stubby Posts: 723
    edited January 2013
    wallstreet wrote: »
    The interesting part here is how are we going to do the A/B testing when you're done? :)

    I can haul my oak non-modded 90's up for comparison. :cheesygrin:
    SRS 3.1TL
    Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
    Anthem AVM2



    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,756
    edited January 2013
    stubby wrote: »
    I can haul my oak non-modded 90's up for comparison. :cheesygrin:

    I'd love to hear the results...
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited January 2013
    stubby wrote: »
    I can haul my oak non-modded 90's up for comparison. :cheesygrin:

    We could do that. We would use the main system for that not the ofc rig.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • stubby
    stubby Posts: 723
    edited January 2013
    thsmith wrote: »
    We could do that. We would use the main system for that not the ofc rig.
    Sounds like fun! Dying to hear 90's on the tube rig. Say the word and I am there.
    SRS 3.1TL
    Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
    Anthem AVM2



    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited January 2013
    Caps, resistors and spikes in and back together. Dynamat has not shown up yet.

    Initial impressions are a wider soundstage, about 2.5' on each side, maybe 1' more depth, top end is a bit forward than previous and definately more sparkle. Bass at first was muddy, then subduded and now starting to tighten up and have nice texture.

    All and all a well spent $120 and a nice improvement from the get go.

    I know it gets even better from here.

    Stubby, I think my wife is planning a trip to Plano soon and that may be best time. But for sure we need to do this.

    Here are the before and after parts used.

    DSCN3437.JPG
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited January 2013
    I left the radio playing all night so the crossover has about 16 hours burn in and I am even more pleased. The top end is a bit relaxed now but the sparkle remains. Mid range has great presence and clarity. Bass is tight and punchy, something I never seem to get on FM radio but do now. I thought I might need to reposition them lastnight as they were still a tad muddy but not now.

    Playing Dire Straits BiAs SACD this morning. All I can say is beautilful ! The clarity is stunning.

    So, DKIP to answer your question on caps and resistor, the answer is yes it is worth doing.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • stubby
    stubby Posts: 723
    edited January 2013
    Sounds like they're burning in nicely. So maybe they will be close to settled in by the time of the big comparo. I'll give you a ring later on this week to sort out the details.
    SRS 3.1TL
    Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
    Anthem AVM2



    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited January 2013
    sounds good
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited January 2013
    Finished Dynamatting the LS90 drivers this weekend. Thought I would add some to the Pioneer Elite AV79.

    Caps are burning in nicely, the biggest change is the sound stage is opening up even more.

    Paul, I know I owe you a call. Being end of month there are quite a few conf calls trying to end the month on a high note. Next weekend for sure.

    DSCN3464.JPG
    DSCN3465.JPG
    DSCN3466.JPG
    DSCN3467.JPG
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • z0rchy
    z0rchy Posts: 1
    Hello. New member here resurrecting this old thread in the hopes of getting some advice.
    I've got pair of LS50s, still in mint condition, that I bought new in the early 90s and a pair of LS90s that I bought used in the late 90s. I'm refreshing the LS90s. I've bought upgraded caps and resistors thanks to this thread.

    When I bought the LS90s, the plastic frame that surrounds the grill had been sheared off. Most of the plastic pegs that hold in place had also been sheared off, so I reattached it with little globs of epoxy putty where each peg was (pic attached). For this refresh, I'd like to fill the frame with something to make it solid and also give me more surface area to adhere better to the speaker baffle. At first I was thinking of filling the entire frame with epoxy putty, but then I realized it would probably be easier to use liquid type epoxy that I could just pour in and let cure? Anyone have any advice or experience on what to use or how to go about this?

    Thanks much!

    TL/DR: I'd like to fill the frame (see pic) with something to make it solid and also give me more surface area to adhere better to the speaker baffle.

    9pe6ujyih6b8.jpg
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    .
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    2-part high flow epoxy or polyurethane would work.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • tompat
    tompat Posts: 1
    z0rchy wrote: »
    Hello. New member here resurrecting this old thread in the hopes of getting some advice.
    I've got pair of LS50s, still in mint condition, that I bought new in the early 90s and a pair of LS90s that I bought used in the late 90s. I'm refreshing the LS90s. I've bought upgraded caps and resistors thanks to this thread.

    When I bought the LS90s, the plastic frame that surrounds the grill had been sheared off. Most of the plastic pegs that hold in place had also been sheared off, so I reattached it with little globs of epoxy putty where each peg was (pic attached). For this refresh, I'd like to fill the frame with something to make it solid and also give me more surface area to adhere better to the speaker baffle. At first I was thinking of filling the entire frame with epoxy putty, but then I realized it would probably be easier to use liquid type epoxy that I could just pour in and let cure? Anyone have any advice or experience on what to use or how to go about this?

    Thanks much!

    TL/DR: I'd like to fill the frame (see pic) with something to make it solid and also give me more surface area to adhere better to the speaker baffle.

    9pe6ujyih6b8.jpg

    I did this recently but I used a tube of construction adhesive by filling up the channel then taping it place and let sit overnight. It's stronger than when they were new
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • bhtoque
    bhtoque Posts: 0
    ken brydson wrote: »
    My 90's were already done with Dayton caps, Mills resistors and Jantzen air core inductors when I bought them last year. Love 'em! I can probably pull the c/o's and take photos if you need them...

    Would you happen to have parts list for what you used?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,436
    bhtoque wrote: »
    ken brydson wrote: »
    My 90's were already done with Dayton caps, Mills resistors and Jantzen air core inductors when I bought them last year. Love 'em! I can probably pull the c/o's and take photos if you need them...

    Would you happen to have parts list for what you used?

    In case you missed it his post was from 2013 so that means he bought them from the seller in 2012.
    As stated he didn't do the work the original seller he bought them from in 2012 may have done the work.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Those drivers would also benefit from Gstater's inner frame foam mods.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter