Just TLed my SDA 1Bs
bigaltx24
Posts: 141
Well I finally took the plunge, ordered RDO198s and a couple of 5.6uf Clarity Caps right before Christmas. The weather was crappy today, so I decided to go ahead and install them. The install went off without a hitch and I was able to get about three solid hours of listening time in this afternoon. All I can say is wow, this mod takes these speakers to a whole different level. The smoothness and detail of the RDO198s puts the SL2000s to shame, and the caps aren't even broken in yet. I really should have done this mod a long time ago.
Denon PMA-900V
Linn Axis with Grado Red
Cambridge Azur 650C
Polk SDA-1BTL
Linn Axis with Grado Red
Cambridge Azur 650C
Polk SDA-1BTL
Post edited by bigaltx24 on
Comments
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Congratulations!
You're just getting started.Let those puppies burn in awhile.
Then get some rings,dynamat,epoxy and tighten 'em up.Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC
Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords
I’M OFFENDED!!!! -
Congrats! I am looking forward to the day I get this done to my 1B's...now that I have a decent amp to make them sing!"if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
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Congrats on your successful upgrade. You may also want to think about replacing your binding posts with Cardas CCGR.
What version of Clarity Caps did you get?Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
tophatjohnny wrote: »Congrats! I am looking forward to the day I get this done to my 1B's...now that I have a decent amp to make them sing!
Dont wait. The sooner the better. The tweeter upgrade alone will have amazing benfits right out of the box and will take less than 30 minutes to complete!Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
Just what does "TL" mean? When you replaced the caps did you just start looking around and replace the old with new. Got any pictures, I'm thinking I would like to do some of this stuff. ThanksMain Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.
Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's. -
michael1947 wrote: »Just what does "TL" mean? When you replaced the caps did you just start looking around and replace the old with new. Got any pictures, I'm thinking I would like to do some of this stuff. Thanks
TL means Tri-Laminate which is specific to the tweeters. TLs are replacement tweeters for certian speakers. The improvement they offer is well worth the investment.
You may want to contact Polks customer service to see if a Tri-Laminate Tweeter replacement is available for your speakers.
You will also get a sonic improvement by replacing your electrolytic caps and resistors with film caps and a new set of resistors. For the caps, Sonic Caps and Clarity Caps are the favored caps for Polk Speakers. The resistor replacements that are highly favored are Mills, Mundorf MR, and Duelund - being the most expensive of the three.
The tweeter and cap/resistor replacements can be performed at different times.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
Thanks, MikeMain Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.
Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's. -
PolkMaster1 wrote: »Dont wait. The sooner the better. The tweeter upgrade alone will have amazing benfits right out of the box and will take less than 30 minutes to complete!
I think I will have to wait if I want to do the 198 tweets. That also requires some upgrading on the crossovers....again I think?? I will get it done in time here! Promise that!"if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
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tophatjohnny wrote: »I think I will have to wait if I want to do the 198 tweets. That also requires some upgrading on the crossovers....again I think?? I will get it done in time here! Promise that!
Call Polks customer service to see if it is a drop-in replacement or if if the RD0 upgrade requires some work. If it does require work, it is usually minor and requires a resistor to be added somewhere in the crossover section.
My tweeter upgrade was a drop-in replacement. However, that did not stop me from upgrading my crossovers.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
Yes crossovers need upgrading which you should do anyway if you still have the original crossovers in the old 20 year old speakers. This is whether you can TL your model SDA speaker or not.
"Ordered RDO198s and a couple of 5.6uf Clarity Caps"
You might as well get the custom boards from Gimpod do it right.
Not only is these boards much better than the stock ones but the larger size (the new caps are much larger)
will allow you to easily do this yourself. Their are only certain SDA models that can accept the TL modification.
They are SDA CRS + and 2B http://gimpod.com/parts2b.html.
But the ones that can't, like the SDA 1C
can at least be upgraded with the RDO-194 tweeter which is the replacement for the SL-2000.
This is one of the new boards for my 2.3tlstophatjohnny wrote: »I think I will have to wait if I want to do the 198 tweets. That also requires some upgrading on the crossovers....again I think?? I will get it done in time here! Promise that!POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
PolkieMan -
Are you going to replace your LF inductors with Solen Equivalents? It may be worthwhile for you to look into. It should not cost much.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
PolkMaster1 wrote: »TL means Tri-Laminate which is specific to the tweeters. TLs are replacement tweeters for certian speakers. The improvement they offer is well worth the investment.
You may want to contact Polks customer service to see if a Tri-Laminate Tweeter replacement is available for your speakers.
"Everyone" says the 198 is a better driver than the SL3000; the Chinese origin has always scared me. I've never heard a 3000 to compare to--I've just trusted the folks here.PolkMaster1 wrote: »The tweeter and cap/resistor replacements can be performed at different times.tophatjohnny wrote: »I think I will have to wait if I want to do the 198 tweets. That also requires some upgrading on the crossovers....again I think?? I will get it done in time here! Promise that!PolkMaster1 wrote: »Call Polks customer service to see if it is a drop-in replacement or if if the RD0 upgrade requires some work. If it does require work, it is usually minor and requires a resistor to be added somewhere in the crossover section.Yes crossovers need upgrading which you should do anyway if you still have the original crossovers in the old 20 year old speakers. This is whether you can TL your model SDA speaker or not.
"Ordered RDO198s and a couple of 5.6uf Clarity Caps"You might as well get the custom boards from Gimpod do it right.
Not only is these boards much better than the stock ones but the larger size (the new caps are much larger)
will allow you to easily do this yourself. Their are only certain SDA models that can accept the TL modification.
They are SDA CRS + and 2B
I suspect, but do not know, that Gimpod's boards can be "coerced" into a 1B if suitable components are installed on the boards; and if a mounting arrangement can be made in place of the two round circuit boards originally used.PolkMaster1 wrote: »PolkieMan -
Are you going to replace your LF inductors with Solen Equivalents? It may be worthwhile for you to look into. It should not cost much. -
"Everyone" says the 198 is a better driver than the SL3000; the Chinese origin has always scared me. I've never heard a 3000 to compare to--I've just trusted the folks here.
I have done the RD0 tweeter replacement, and I find that the RD0 sounds better compared to the original SL Tweeters.The 198 tweeters into 1Bs requires the replacement of a 4.4uF cap with a 5.8uF cap. Might as well do the whole board at that time.
Thanks for the clarification Schurkey. I was under the impression that for some modifications to TLs required a resistor drop in along the way.I am in the process of playing inductor games with the 9.6mH SDA inductors on my 1B. It has not gone well so far. Stay tuned.
Good luck with this endeavor Schurkey.
Check out the Solen web page for your LF Inductors for your PR and LF Inductors. They are highly recommended for the SRS Series - hopefully it translates to the speakers you are applying it to. Try to find inductors that have the same (or as close as possible) DCR and mH values as the original inductors.
Jantzen came in highly recommened for the HF inductors. A good HF inductor replacement could be harder to find. Use the same rules mentioned above when searching HF inductors.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
Ther's so much wrong/bad info in this thread that the entire thread should be ignored, if not deleted.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ther's so much wrong/bad info in this thread that the entire thread should be ignored, if not deleted.
A friend of a friend has a pair of SDA SRS 1.2 or 1.2TLs in the town I bought my speakers in, but they've never blessed my ears, and I've never met the man...yet.
I'd just prefer that you pointed out the wrong/bad info rather than suggesting the thread go away. -
I used the Clarity Cap PX.Denon PMA-900V
Linn Axis with Grado Red
Cambridge Azur 650C
Polk SDA-1BTL -
I have kicked it around but it will be after "tax time" is over. Did you do it on yours?PolkMaster1 wrote: »PolkieMan -
Are you going to replace your LF inductors with Solen Equivalents? It may be worthwhile for you to look into. It should not cost much.POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
I think I'm the only member in the Houston area.
The Sda Handbook is truly far superior to anything I can tell you in a short post and I would recommend that everyone reads it from front to back.
vr3mods.com/uploads/SDA_Handbook_2011_Rev2.pdf
I will say that Tony (Gimpod) helped me a lot with the crossover upgrade and he too along with his website is a wealth of knowledge.I'm just thrilled to pieces that the long-neglected 1B is finally getting some attention. True enough, I'm biased as all get-out; they're the ONLY SDAs I've listened to since I drove 600 miles round-trip to buy 'em new in '86 or '87. The Frozen Wastelands is not a hotbed of audiophallic energy--I'm the only person I know in this town who cares about audio, and I don't see that changing anytime soon.
A friend of a friend has a pair of SDA SRS 1.2 or 1.2TLs in the town I bought my speakers in, but they've never blessed my ears, and I've never met the man...yet.
I'd just prefer that you pointed out the wrong/bad info rather than suggesting the thread go away.POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
I'd just prefer that you pointed out the wrong/bad info rather than suggesting the thread go away.
Ok.TL means Tri-Laminate which is specific to the tweeters.
That is correct to a point. The TL models also have a number of differences/improvements other than the tweeters.TLs are replacement tweeters for certian speakers.
That is wrong. The last version of the SDA's (1.2TL, 3.2TL, 3.1TL) and RTA 15TL used the SL3000 tweeter, which was a tri-laminate design. Hence, the TL moniker added to end of the model number. The current replacement tweeters are either the RD0194-1 (SL2000 replacement) or the RD0198-1 (SL3000/SL2500 replacement). Near the end of SDA production Polk was going to release the 4.1TL, which would have been the CRS+ with the SL3000 instead of the SL2000. SDA production ended before they hit the market (although it's thought a few may have escaped). Anyway, it was discovered that the CRS+/4.1TL crossover is exactly the same as the 2B's, so some of us upgraded the 2B's to use the RD0198-1 tweeter and called the speaker the 2BTL. Those two models are the ONLY SDA's that can be upgraded to TL's.
I know a few here decided that they could drop a RD0198-1 into the SRS 2 (blade/blade version) and the 1B's by simply changing a cap. Well, I don't think so. What they seem to have forgotten is the overall balance of the design Polk engineered. I have seen where the top tweeter was changed to the RD0198-1 (with a cap change) and the bottom tweeter was either left as the original SL2000 or changed to the RD0194-1 or changed to the RD0198-1 without any other change to the crossover. A study of the SDA schematics and common logic dictate that a change in the circuit for the bottom tweeter is required as well. In addition, they make no allowance for the very different mid-drivers/shunt circuit used in those 2 models verses the actual models that can use the RD0198-1 tweeter.The improvement they [tweeters] offer is well worth the investment.
Agreed, as long as the appropriate tweeter is used.You may want to contact Polks customer service to see if a Tri-Laminate Tweeter replacement is available for your speakers.
Again, there are no tri-laminate tweeters available. Only the RD0194-1 and RD0198-1, which are rubberized silk domes.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ok.
That is correct to a point. The TL models also have a number of differences/improvements other than the tweeters.
That is wrong. The last version of the SDA's (1.2TL, 3.2TL, 3.1TL) and RTA 15TL used the SL3000 tweeter, which was a tri-laminate design. Hence, the TL moniker added to end of the model number. The current replacement tweeters are either the RD0194-1 (SL2000 replacement) or the RD0198-1 (SL3000/SL2500 replacement). Near the end of SDA production Polk was going to release the 4.1TL, which would have been the CRS+ with the SL3000 instead of the SL2000. SDA production ended before they hit the market (although it's thought a few may have escaped). Anyway, it was discovered that the CRS+/4.1TL crossover is exactly the same as the 2B's, so some of us upgraded the 2B's to use the RD0198-1 tweeter and called the speaker the 2BTL. Those two models are the ONLY SDA's that can be upgraded to TL's.
I know a few here decided that they could drop a RD0198-1 into the SRS 2 (blade/blade version) and the 1B's by simply changing a cap. Well, I don't think so. What they seem to have forgotten is the overall balance of the design Polk engineered. I have seen where the top tweeter was changed to the RD0198-1 (with a cap change) and the bottom tweeter was either left as the original SL2000 or changed to the RD0194-1 or changed to the RD0198-1 without any other change to the crossover. A study of the SDA schematics and common logic dictate that a change in the circuit for the bottom tweeter is required as well. In addition, they make no allowance for the very different mid-drivers/shunt circuit used in those 2 models verses the actual models that can use the RD0198-1 tweeter.
Agreed, as long as the appropriate tweeter is used.
Again, there are no tri-laminate tweeters available. Only the RD0194-1 and RD0198-1, which are rubberized silk domes.
F1nut...that's who I believe....flat out knows his stuff!!! Anything else...I can't hear it!!"if it's not fun, it's not worth it & remember folks, "It's All About The Music"!!
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Ok.
That is correct to a point. The TL models also have a number of differences/improvements other than the tweeters.
That is wrong. The last version of the SDA's (1.2TL, 3.2TL, 3.1TL) and RTA 15TL used the SL3000 tweeter, which was a tri-laminate design. Hence, the TL moniker added to end of the model number. The current replacement tweeters are either the RD0194-1 (SL2000 replacement) or the RD0198-1 (SL3000/SL2500 replacement). Near the end of SDA production Polk was going to release the 4.1TL, which would have been the CRS+ with the SL3000 instead of the SL2000. SDA production ended before they hit the market (although it's thought a few may have escaped). Anyway, it was discovered that the CRS+/4.1TL crossover is exactly the same as the 2B's, so some of us upgraded the 2B's to use the RD0198-1 tweeter and called the speaker the 2BTL. Those two models are the ONLY SDA's that can be upgraded to TL's.
I know a few here decided that they could drop a RD0198-1 into the SRS 2 (blade/blade version) and the 1B's by simply changing a cap. Well, I don't think so. What they seem to have forgotten is the overall balance of the design Polk engineered. I have seen where the top tweeter was changed to the RD0198-1 (with a cap change) and the bottom tweeter was either left as the original SL2000 or changed to the RD0194-1 or changed to the RD0198-1 without any other change to the crossover. A study of the SDA schematics and common logic dictate that a change in the circuit for the bottom tweeter is required as well. In addition, they make no allowance for the very different mid-drivers/shunt circuit used in those 2 models verses the actual models that can use the RD0198-1 tweeter.
Agreed, as long as the appropriate tweeter is used.
Again, there are no tri-laminate tweeters available. Only the RD0194-1 and RD0198-1, which are rubberized silk domes.
I find this response to be informative and a well worthy read.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
I have kicked it around but it will be after "tax time" is over. Did you do it on yours?
Yes, I did it to mine. I noticed a bit of improvement on my 1.2TLs - YMMV.
Let me just qualify my statement to say that IF you decide to upgrade the inductors on your crossover board, it should not cost much. (The massive sized inductor that I replaced on my 1.2TL cost a few hundred $$$.) Unfortunately, I am not aware of any SDA (non-SRS) member mentioning that they upgraded their inductors on their SDA line.
If you should decide to go that route, you may want to purchase Gimpods crossover board which will make the job much easier than if you were to try to upgrade the inductors on the stock crossover. Gimpods boards allows to have a better layout of the components used on your crossover.
You may want to seek advice from other members who have SDA speakers and used Gimpods boards as the SDA line (non-SRS) might present a challenge when trying to mount the crossover boards in your SDA speaker.Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
I did all the inductors on my 4.1TL's. I used Jantzens for the three small ones on the board and a Solen for the 16mH. Can't really say with authority what a difference they made, because I bought the speakers already disassembled, and I did all the upgrades at once - tweeters, caps, resistors, inductors, rings, armacell, etc. But the speakers sound absolutely outstanding.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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I did all the inductors on my 4.1TL's. I used Jantzens for the three small ones on the board and a Solen for the 16mH. Can't really say with authority what a difference they made, because I bought the speakers already disassembled, and I did all the upgrades at once - tweeters, caps, resistors, inductors, rings, armacell, etc. But the speakers sound absolutely outstanding.
Add Dynamat Extreme on the metal baskets on the back of your speakers. Great set of upgrades you did!!!!Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.
The other 2% will work for WalMart. -
Ah yes, did that too, forgot to mention. Plus the Sonic Barrier inside the cabs. Plus binding posts and veneer! But on point, the Jantzen inductors on the 2B/CRS+ are a slam dunk because they have off the shelf parts that are like for like replacements, without touching the windings.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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I know a few here decided that they could drop a RD0198-1 into the SRS 2 (blade/blade version) and the 1B's by simply changing a cap. Well, I don't think so.
Just be glad that this thread is not about replacing the passive radiator with an active woofer or replacing the dome tweeters with ribbons or hornsProud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
Thanks F1nut for your info/knowledge. I have a pair of SRS3.1TL's and am currently listening to a pair of 2.3TL's with the silver style dome tweeters that are tri-laminate. I like the sound(love) of the SRS speakers but I keep frying up these(SL3000) tweeters when in a long high volume listening time. I have replaced the single tweeters on the 3.1's with the rubberized/silk style you have explained that was available and they do seem more durable at the high volume levels. I am looking for a a knowledgeable person to give me advice to make these speakers last longer as I am thinking about purchasing the bigger 2.3's and you sound like that person. What upgrades do you recommend before I replace all 6 of the 2.3's tweeters? Would that also apply to the 3.1's? Do the upgrades tlaked about in this forum make sense to you? I appreciate any advise you would recommend.
Funny thing......I have had your quote posted on my office wall for years... -
NEHBRNUSENTS wrote: »I have a pair of SRS3.1TL's and am currently listening to a pair of 2.3TL's with the silver style dome tweeters that are tri-laminate. I like the sound(love) of the SRS speakers but I keep frying up these(SL3000) tweeters when in a long high volume listening time. I have replaced the single tweeters on the 3.1's with the rubberized/silk style you have explained that was available and they do seem more durable at the high volume levels. I am looking for a a knowledgeable person to give me advice to make these speakers last longer as I am thinking about purchasing the bigger 2.3's and you sound like that person. What upgrades do you recommend before I replace all 6 of the 2.3's tweeters? Would that also apply to the 3.1's? Do the upgrades tlaked about in this forum make sense to you? I appreciate any advise you would recommend.
More CLEAN power, and your tweeter problems vanish. Probably sound better, too.
What are you powering your speakers with? It IS common-ground...right? For that matter, what are you powering the amp with? I know of a guy who tried to run multiple Hafler amps and dual powered subwoofers into his home theatre, when his house only had 60 amp electrical service. -
Ditto. As much as we all prefer to pull them when we rebuild crossovers, there was a valid reason why Polk had the polyswitches in the circuit. To protect the tweeters against naughty amps!Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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Ditto. As much as we all prefer to pull them when we rebuild crossovers, there was a valid reason why Polk had the polyswitches in the circuit. To protect the tweeters against naughty amps!
"Naughty amps!" THAT'S funny.