having problems plz help
warviper
Posts: 585
Im new to this upper end audio stuff and i have so far smoked my sub and an amp i never turn the sub or the amp past the half way mark and i am running a harmon kardon avr20 i know its weak but im working on a new one, and the sub i have is the def tec 15 and i got a pair of ls 90 and a cs1000p i got another avr 20 should i bi amp bi wire or should i keep the jumpers in and bi amp or am i best off using just one amp
thanx for helping the noob
thanx for helping the noob
Wish I was a polkologist then I could call my self Dr.warviper.
Post edited by warviper on
Comments
-
Smoked them, huh? What do you have your speakers set to, small or large?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Not an option...Originally posted by warviper
... should i keep the jumpers in and bi amp...More later,
Tour...
Vox Copuli
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb
"Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
"It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
"There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD -
uhh i dont think i have that setting on my amp its a pretty basic one no bells and whistles i understand what you are saying though if you set the amp at large and the speakers are small you blow them right? any suggestions for a new amp remember that i dont got that much cash
thanx for the reply you to cool
why cant i leave jumpers in and bi amp i dont understand?Wish I was a polkologist then I could call my self Dr.warviper. -
Bi-amping means that you will be using 2 amps to power your speakers. Connecting 2 amps without removing the jumpers will ruin your speakers. The jumpers must be removed to bi-amp.
Click on the this link and download the Polk Audio HT Handbook.
http://www.polkaudio.com/home/library/hthandbook.php
It's a great resource and it will answer a lot of questions. -
Thanx Frank
lol i think im in trouble i dont think my hk avr 20 is dolby digital ready movies seem better in three stereo mode than they do in dolby surround prologic is any one familiar with this amp
Thanx guysWish I was a polkologist then I could call my self Dr.warviper. -
Bi-ampimg, is the use of two stereo amplifiers to drive the speakers. One amp is typically used to power the high frequency drivers (tweeters=1" trilaminate, or the small diameter speakers) while the other amplifier powers the lower frequency drivers (woofers or mid drivers are usually 6.5" to 10").
The device that directs the high frequencies to the tweeters and the lower frequencies to the woofers is called a crossover. Since most people don't have the luxury of being able to buy two stereo amplifiers, most vendors will electrically connect the high frequency crossover section to the low frequency section by using jumpers (short lengthed conductors). Vendors want flexibility for their customers ie you can bi-amp Polks but not Jupitors. The jumpers can be (in fact must be removed) removed if the customer wishes to bi=amp. If the jumpers are not removed you end up paralleling the outputs of the amplifiers and this could result in very high circulating currents and damage to the amplifiers.
Do you have an electronic crossover???:) BOON -
No I dont have an electronic crossover can you recomend one thanxWish I was a polkologist then I could call my self Dr.warviper.
-
Hi, there are a number of electronic crossovers available I have a Bryston electronic crossover. The benefits are that you can do away with the passive crossovers working at the high power level within the speaker cabinets. The electronic crossover usually goes between the pre-amp and the power amps (one stereo amp for the highs and one for the lows).
The disadvantage is that you have to remove the passive crossovers and direct wire to the speakers them selves. The advantage is a much cleaner more defined sound. Re-wiring is complex and you have to match the impedance close to what is was originally ie 8 ohms to 8 ohms.
An alternative to removal of the speaker crossovers is to set the electronic crossover to slightly overlap . This will direct only highs to the high stereo amp and only lows to the low amp. That way you cut out frequencies being applied to the amplifiers that the speakers don't use anyway as set up by the speaker crossovers. It will still sound better.BOON -
Warviper - Electronic crossovers, while neat, are just not a good idea for the regular audio enthusiast. It is a tweak for people who just have nothing else to tweak, IMO. This idea is not something you should even bother with trying.
If you have allready "smoked" , bi-wiring and bi-amping should be the last thing you should be attempting to figure out right now.
Get more specific in your problem, like exact configuration, current wiring scheme, etc. You original post is unclear as to why you are having problems.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
yea I kinda did a head first dive into this home audio stuff, the sub was faulty and they had to replace the driver and i think either the amp or the crossover inside the sub just got it back today. Thanx for all the input.:DWish I was a polkologist then I could call my self Dr.warviper.
-
Originally posted by BOON
Hi, there are a number of electronic crossovers available I have a Bryston electronic crossover. The benefits are that you can do away with the passive crossovers working at the high power level within the speaker cabinets. The electronic crossover usually goes between the pre-amp and the power amps (one stereo amp for the highs and one for the lows).
The disadvantage is that you have to remove the passive crossovers and direct wire to the speakers them selves. The advantage is a much cleaner more defined sound. Re-wiring is complex and you have to match the impedance close to what is was originally ie 8 ohms to 8 ohms.
An alternative to removal of the speaker crossovers is to set the electronic crossover to slightly overlap . This will direct only highs to the high stereo amp and only lows to the low amp. That way you cut out frequencies being applied to the amplifiers that the speakers don't use anyway as set up by the speaker crossovers. It will still sound better.BOON -
Warviper, Dorokusai (Doro) although somewhat blunt has a point in that you should of course fix the problem you have first before any further refinement.
The fact that you are bi-amping, suggests that you are above average in your audio expectations. The idea of an electronic crossover is not a "tweek" but rather a design improvement. Your power amplifier has what is called an output impedance that allows power to flow to your speakers from the amplifier's +/- DC voltage power supply. Your speakers have innertia in the diaphrams that wants them to keep going past the point where your amplifier wants it to go. This causes an error or distortion.
Anything electrically in between your amplifier and the speaker "proper" increases this error. In my previous discussion I said that with an electronic crossover you can get rid of the speaker crossover being a passive and additional series component/impedance between your amp and your speaker proper. By minimizing the components or their effect you end up with a better sound.
Point in fact is, most if not all, high end audio experts recommend the use of large guage oxygen free copper speaker cables. This is to reduce the effect of series impedance of the speaker wire so that the amplifier output impedance can dampin diaphram overshoot or inertia.(as the diaphram travels past were it should be, the speaker coil acts like a generator, cutting the lines of magnetic force, that develops a voltage that is nulled by the amplifier impedance back to the power supply) The speaker diaphram better follows the amplifer output signal. Perhaps Doro should take a course or two. BOONEBOON -
Originally posted by BOON
The fact that you are bi-amping, suggests that you are above average in your audio expectations.
He was asking about if he SHOULD bi-amp, not that he WAS bi-amplifying. The response is fair, he would be best served investigating the causes of the original problems.
How could you possibly think that investing in another piece of gear, on your single recommendation, is his resolve? He has a bunch of good gear, and you offer something that is....sorry honcho, just not needed at this stage.Perhaps Doro should take a course or two.
Oh, please enlighten me, as to what courses in education I should follow to become as enlightened as yourself. You know nothing about my education level sir. I will also point out that I am a believer in cables and the benefits thereof, it obvious in my sig line.
I believe Warviper has made some progress and is on his way, due to some useful knowledge passed on by Frank Z, via thread and his very own repair of the aforementioned subwoofer.
BOON, You should learn to read more, but that is probably quite difficult with your one brown eye.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Dorokusai, I actually have two blue eyes, if I have upset you, it wasn't the intent. The thing here is we are both interested in helping, I was trying to explain what information I had to contribute.
In terms of educational background I have a degree in applied science what do you have??
I see you use large cables what prompted you to do so??
The BooneBOON
