Polarized Cap

zingo
zingo Posts: 11,258
edited December 2012 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I'm replacing the C5 470uF caps in a Hafler DH200 with new electrolytics, but I just realized that the originals are bipolar and my new ones are standard polarized. Which way should I install the polarized caps in the circuit, or will it not work at all?

Thanks for the help!
Jake
Post edited by zingo on
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2012
    Got; thanks!
    Jake
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  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited December 2012
    What was the answer ?
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2012
    Not possible.
    Jake
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited December 2012
    zingo wrote: »
    Not possible.

    Sure it is.For signal coupling the signal input should be applied to the positive lead.On supply rails the positive lead should be connected to the 'most positive' side of the circuit.
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2012
    Thanks for the intellegent correction; I always enjoy a good lesson.

    It looks like I need to put the original caps back in, power up the amp and measure each side of the cap, then install the new caps appropriately.
    Jake
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  • ViperZ
    ViperZ Posts: 2,046
    edited December 2012
    I would never replace a non-polarized cap with a polarized one. Worst case, if you really want to do it, take two polarized caps, solder them together "-" to "-", this way you'll have a non-polarized cap. Just make sure the value is right, as two caps in series is like a two resistors in parallel. Is it worth the effort? Not to me.

    Btw, manufacturers will always put polraized cap wherever possible, as they are generally smaller and cheaper than non-polarized ones.

    Of course, there are applications like filtering to ground, where you can put a polarized cap instead, as long as you put it the right way. I'd rather order the right part anyway.
    Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector for movies
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2012
    I completely agree with you. I knew the two cap trick, but it was much better to say "no", than the alternative...

    g_400xN.1019.jpg
    Jake
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  • ViperZ
    ViperZ Posts: 2,046
    edited December 2012
    zingo wrote: »
    I completely agree with you. I knew the two cap trick, but it was much better to say "no", than the alternative...

    Ugh, those look baaaad. But on a bright side, there is nothing like opening an amp and finding a problem just by looking at the board.
    Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector for movies
    Carada 106" Precision Series (Classic Cinema White)
    Denon AVR-X3600H pre/pro
    Outlaw 770 7-channel amplifier
    B&W CDM1-SE fronts
    B&W CDM-CNT center
    B&W CDM1 rears on MoPADs
    JBL SP8CII in-ceiling height speakers
    Samsung DTB-H260F OTA HDTV tuner
    DUAL NHT SubTwo subwoofers
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-Ray player
    Belkin PF60 Power Center
    Harmony 1100 RF remote with RF extender
    Sony XBR-X950G 55" 4K HDR Smart TV + PS3 in the living room
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  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited December 2012
    Thanks guys, learn something new everyday.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited December 2012
    I agree that finding a ruptured cap or burnt resistor is exciting to find when you're trouble-shooting a piece of electronics!
    Jake
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  • bmbguy
    bmbguy Posts: 416
    edited December 2012
    Not sure that 'exciting' would be the word I'd choose, but hey...it certainly can help speed the diagnosis!
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited December 2012
    C5 is in the feedback loop so you can try the polarized cap with it's negative lead in the R22 side of circuit until you find suitable NP's.The cap will not be seeing large reverse voltages so it will not atomize itself.The purpose of this cap is to prevent amplifying any DC that may appear at the output.
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