In-Wall speaker wire preferences?

Toxis
Toxis Posts: 5,116
I am looking to rewire my HT and possibly relocate my equipment to a remote location so I'm wondering who here has some quality but inexpensive speaker wire they've used and prefer. I know Monoprice has some thick 12awg for decent price. I can get 250' of wire and 9 pair of banana plugs from them for about $125 shipped. That seems right up my alley but at the same time, almost too cheap. Anyone have other suggestions for anything out there?
Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.
Post edited by Toxis on

Comments

  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    edited December 2012
    Yes , Use Audioquest Flx 14/2. I use it myself.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited December 2012
    Is it solid core or stranded?
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,653
    edited December 2012
    Toxis wrote: »
    Is it solid core or stranded?

    Stranded.
    Used the same stuff myself and had zero complaints at all.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • ViperZ
    ViperZ Posts: 2,046
    edited December 2012
    There is nothing wrong with Monoprice in-wall speaker wire. Many people I know use it for in-wall wiring their HT (with keystone conector boxes on the wall). If it's cheap, it's not always bad.
    Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector for movies
    Carada 106" Precision Series (Classic Cinema White)
    Denon AVR-X3600H pre/pro
    Outlaw 770 7-channel amplifier
    B&W CDM1-SE fronts
    B&W CDM-CNT center
    B&W CDM1 rears on MoPADs
    JBL SP8CII in-ceiling height speakers
    Samsung DTB-H260F OTA HDTV tuner
    DUAL NHT SubTwo subwoofers
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-Ray player
    Belkin PF60 Power Center
    Harmony 1100 RF remote with RF extender
    Sony XBR-X950G 55" 4K HDR Smart TV + PS3 in the living room
  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited December 2012
    The only reason I was considering it was the fact it's 12awg. I'm not pumping huge amounts of power but I don't want the wire to be a limitation if I ever get into more juice.
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited December 2012
    Yea monoprice works for me, just ordered
    2816 50ft 12AWG CL2 Rated 2-Conductor Loud Speaker Cable (For In-Wall Installation) 1 $16.42 $16.42

    use CATALOG12 to save 10%


    Toxis wrote: »
    The only reason I was considering it was the fact it's 12awg. I'm not pumping huge amounts of power but I don't want the wire to be a limitation if I ever get into more juice.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,306
    edited December 2012
    14/2 will be more than adequate for in wall use
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited December 2012
    Well I'm looking at 250' to be over prepared. And then I could even bi-wire the fronts to make sure I have plenty of amperage. All in due time.

    I'm sure 14/2 is adequate but I'm using Cobalt 10awg speaker wire for my fronts now and when I move my equipment, I don't really want to lose much power/SQ.
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited December 2012
    DSkip wrote: »
    I need a professional to come up and run some wires for me. There's no pay involved, but there will be all the beer you can drink, maybe a pizza or two thrown in. Hell, I might even have a couch he could get some shut-eye on (sorry, extra bed is long gone). :wink:

    Make sure the work is done before providing the compensation. :smile:
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,306
    edited December 2012
    DSkip wrote: »
    I need a professional to come up and run some wires for me. There's no pay involved, but there will be all the beer you can drink, maybe a pizza or two thrown in. Hell, I might even have a couch he could get some shut-eye on (sorry, extra bed is long gone). :wink:

    If I get a break in between my Buc-ee's projects around LSAF I could come up early or stay longer my man, I'll keep you posted...remember I get thirsty around 4 o'clock.

    I will be setting up a small system in my room again with beverages and tunes
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • dracoskeeper
    dracoskeeper Posts: 142
    edited December 2012
    Is this a good price for the AQ? 150$ for 125' http://www.nhthifi.com/s.nl/sc.3/.f
  • Phil17108
    Phil17108 Posts: 2
    edited January 2013
    The first time I set up my system, 14/2 cl2 from monster and a few years ago during a home redo got the monoprice 14/2 cl2 and found that the only deference is that the monoprice is a little stiffer and is easer to work with. Take a look at this http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/exoticmaterials.htm. and make up your mind about HI priced cable.
  • throner
    throner Posts: 1
    edited January 2013
    What is wrong with zip ties for cable management? Get some that are the color of your cabling (or just black), and make sure to cut off the excess when you've tied the cables together. Other than that, you could go out and buy a piece of furniture to hold your A/V equipment that has special channels in it for fishing cables through, but if you already have other furniture, what's the point? Zip ties done properly can look very nice indeed.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    edited January 2013
    throner wrote: »
    What is wrong with zip ties for cable management? Get some that are the color of your cabling (or just black), and make sure to cut off the excess when you've tied the cables together. Other than that, you could go out and buy a piece of furniture to hold your A/V equipment that has special channels in it for fishing cables through, but if you already have other furniture, what's the point? Zip ties done properly can look very nice indeed.
    In general there is nothing wrong with using zip ties for cable management but I prefer Velcro due to it's ability to be re used. Zip ties are one and done unless you use the reusable design , and then you wouldn't want to cut off the extra as more wire down the road maybe used. I buy Velcro in rolls.
    Here are some examples of my work with both Zip ties and Velcro
    IMG_2393.jpg

    IMG_2396.jpg

    IMG_2354-1.jpg
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited January 2013
    Dan, Great wiring job, that looks very clean. One question, would it better to run the power leads separate from the signal and speaker leads?
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • pablo_rodz
    pablo_rodz Posts: 331
    edited January 2013
    I just finished running monoprice 12 ga. inwall and I liked it, and for the price I think it's a no-brainier. That cabling job is awesome. I don't know if I have the patience to fight cabling long enough to have that outcome...

    I have the same question as above, would it be better to separate the power cords from the speaker cables, what about interconnects?
    HT:
    Projector - JVC HD100, 100" Fixed Screen, A/V Receiver - Pioneer Elite VSX-92TXH, Power Conditioner - Panamax M5300-EX, BluRay - Sony PS3, (2) ADCOM GFA 555 Bridged, Speakers - LSi 15, LSi C, LSi FX, Sub - 12" M&K VX-1250.

    Living Room:
    Schiit Saga, Parasound HCA-600, OPPO BDP-103D, LSi7
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,200
    edited January 2013
    zane77 wrote: »
    Dan, Great wiring job, that looks very clean. One question, would it better to run the power leads separate from the signal and speaker leads?
    When Possible , I like to keep power wires away from IC's but for short distances I have not had any issues , hums or anything of that nature. When you use cheaper quality cables , this becomes more of an issue.
    If you look at my first picture , you will see all IC's are bundled together and the power cable is by itself. It does have to travel out the same hole in the cabinet which there are times where I'll drill 2 holes and keep the power cable completely separate.
    Check out picture 2 more closely and notice that the power cables only combine with the IC's for inches , they are hidden behind the Stand rails. IC's are on the back.
    Picture number 3 the IC's are on the very back of the Rack while the power cables are ran on the inside. This rack didn't have Lacer bars which are what you use to wire manage the back of a rack. I can provide a pic of what proper lacer bars look like and how they are used to manage wiring.
    IMG_0001-2.jpg
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • Msabot1
    Msabot1 Posts: 2,098
    edited January 2013
    Use the Velcro type for cabling management, if ya ever have to add,they pull apart rather than having to cut em,and yes powered lines should be routed away from signal lines even if they are shielded!
  • PubFiction
    PubFiction Posts: 105
    edited January 2013
    IMO solid wire would be better for in wall, the entire point of stranded wire the best I know is because wire which is moved around alot because it is used as a connector outside of wall often breaks. Stranded wire can break a single strand and the the signal can hop over to the other strand then hop back. So you can have various breaks down the line and it will not kill the signal. With solid wire 1 break can kill the whole run, but when you put something in the wall no one is every moving it, vacuuming over it and so on so there is no reason for it to break. Having recently run straned wire in a house I would much prefere stiffer wire, the junk hangs down everywhere and requires a ton of staples to keep it neat, the only reason I ran it was because I already had it, and I small motivation was that solid wire would be better if it was an odd color so no one in the future mistook it for an electrical wire and tried to wire a box in or something.
  • math wizard
    math wizard Posts: 106
    edited January 2013
    Toxis wrote: »
    I am looking to rewire my HT and possibly relocate my equipment to a remote location so I'm wondering who here has some quality but inexpensive speaker wire they've used and prefer. I know Monoprice has some thick 12awg for decent price. I can get 250' of wire and 9 pair of banana plugs from them for about $125 shipped. That seems right up my alley but at the same time, almost too cheap. Anyone have other suggestions for anything out there?

    I use Monoprice 12 ga. speaker cable inwall with no problems. have been using it for years.
    Processor - Emotiva UMC-200
    Pre-Amp (2 Ch) - Emotiva USP-1
    DSP Minidsp nanoAVR DL
    DAC (2 Ch) - Emotiva XDA-2
    Amp (Fronts) - Emotiva XPA-2
    Amp (Center/Surrounds) - Emotiva XPA-3
    CD - Emotiva ERC-1
    Fronts - Polk Audio RTi 12
    Center - Polk Audio CSi5
    Rears - Polk Audio RTiA1
    Sub - Epik Knight
    Sub EQ - Velodyne SMS-1
    Monitor - Sony XBR65X850C
    Blu-Ray - OPPO BDP-203
    Network Media Player - Chromecast Ultra
    Power Conditioner - APC H15
    Power Conditioner - Emotiva CMX-2
    PVR - DirecTV C61k
    Remote - Harmony Touch w/Hub
  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited January 2013
    Anyone know where I can find the AQ 250' for under $199 online? Crutchfield can't be the cheapest... The always are too high IMO. But I can't find it cheaper... Did CF become competitive?
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.