Reversing a TL to Non-TL... as easy as reversing a TL process?
Mystery
Posts: 2,546
First thing on your head may be why the hell anyone would do this?
Well I have my reasons.
I'm planning on using SL3000 from RTA-8TL on my SDA-2B to TL them.
So in order to use the SL2000 from 2B's in 8TL so they still function as speakers, I need to reverse TL. :redface:
I didn't pay much for the 8TL's and it's hard to sell them with any profit.
If I can do that, it'll be much cheaper to TL my 2B's than buying new pairs of RDO-198's.
Come to think of it, the 8TL's may also have needed capacitor and other parts needed for TL.
Hmmm... I may have to just swap few things between them and I'll have TL'ed 2B's and non-TL'ed 8T's.
Yes, I plan to fully re-cap 2B's but it'll be just a trial for now.
Yay or nay???
Well I have my reasons.
I'm planning on using SL3000 from RTA-8TL on my SDA-2B to TL them.
So in order to use the SL2000 from 2B's in 8TL so they still function as speakers, I need to reverse TL. :redface:
I didn't pay much for the 8TL's and it's hard to sell them with any profit.
If I can do that, it'll be much cheaper to TL my 2B's than buying new pairs of RDO-198's.
Come to think of it, the 8TL's may also have needed capacitor and other parts needed for TL.
Hmmm... I may have to just swap few things between them and I'll have TL'ed 2B's and non-TL'ed 8T's.
Yes, I plan to fully re-cap 2B's but it'll be just a trial for now.
Yay or nay???
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
Post edited by Mystery on
Comments
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There are three schematics for the 8T here:http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?38755-POLK-AUDIO-Speaker-Wiring-Schematics-amp-More-ALL-MODELS-except-SDAFirst thing on your head may be why the hell anyone would do this?
Well I have my reasons.
I'm planning on using SL3000 from RTA-8TL on my SDA-2B to TL them.
So in order to use the SL2000 from 2B's in 8TL so they still function as speakers, I need to reverse TL. :redface:
I didn't pay much for the 8TL's and it's hard to sell them with any profit.
If I can do that, it'll be much cheaper to TL my 2B's than buying new pairs of RDO-198's.
Come to think of it, the 8TL's may also have needed capacitor and other parts needed for TL.
Hmmm... I may have to just swap few things between them and I'll have TL'ed 2B's and non-TL'ed 8T's.
Yes, I plan to fully re-cap 2B's but it'll be just a trial for now.
Yay or nay???
The Hi-Pass sections show an Original configuration, SL2000 configuration, and an SL2500. You'll have to see what version you have.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
I've looked at the schematics bu my 8TL's have SL3000 not SL2500.westmassguy wrote: »There are three schematics for the 8T here:http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?38755-POLK-AUDIO-Speaker-Wiring-Schematics-amp-More-ALL-MODELS-except-SDA
The Hi-Pass sections show an Original configuration, SL2000 configuration, and an SL2500. You'll have to see what version you have.
None of the 8TL schematics have SL3000 on them.
If I use SL3000 tweeters on 2B's, all I have to do is add a 5.8uf capacitor parallel to 2.7 ohm resistor, right?
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
you must also stop and remember they used 3 different drivers on those. 6501 1st gen. 6510 2nd gen. and 6516 TL gen.
it may not be that easy -
The SL2500 and 3000 used the same crossover.I've looked at the schematics bu my 8TL's have SL3000 not SL2500.
None of the 8TL schematics have SL3000 on them.
If I use SL3000 tweeters on 2B's, all I have to do is add a 5.8uf capacitor parallel to 2.7 ohm resistor, right?Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
True, but the Low-Pass components were unchanged. They did add a resistor in the Hi-Pass, 2nd order bipass for the SL2000 model.you must also stop and remember they used 3 different drivers on those. 6501 1st gen. 6510 2nd gen. and 6516 TL gen.
it may not be that easyHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
I see... but does that affect HF crossover? I won't be touching the mid/low section.you must also stop and remember they used 3 different drivers on those. 6501 1st gen. 6510 2nd gen. and 6516 TL gen.
it may not be that easy
Okay, if that's the case, I can look for a pair of Monitor 4.6's or other cheap pair that use SL2500 and simply use them in 8TL's and they'll be still TL's with SL2500 and take out SL3000's.westmassguy wrote: »The SL2500 and 3000 used the same crossover.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
4.6s are not that common, at least in my area. Why not just invest in a pair of RDO-198s and be done with it.I see... but does that affect HF crossover? I won't be touching the mid/low section.
Okay, if that's the case, I can look for a pair of Monitor 4.6's or other cheap pair that use SL2500 and simply use them in 8TL's and they'll be still TL's with SL2500 and take out SL3000's.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »Why not just invest in a pair of RDO-198s and be done with it.
+1...Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance. -
Fixing 8TL is not primary concern. I can actually part them out or keep them for parts if needed.westmassguy wrote: »4.6s are not that common, at least in my area. Why not just invest in a pair of RDO-198s and be done with it.
They are not being used and won't be used anytime soon.
From what I read, RDO-198 and SL3000 are same so why invest $100 when I have a perfectly working pair of 8TL's for half of that including 4 mid drivers?
So back to TL'ing 2B's... in addition to caps/resistors that are there, I need to add one 5.8 uf capacitor to work with SL3000, right?
Also, if I understand correctly, I can either leave the polyswitch as it is or jump them and use a 3.2 ohms resistor instead or 2.7 ohms or use a .5 ohms resistor in place.
Is there anything else that needs to be added/ordered for 2B upgrade?
Thanks.
BTW, I have blade-blade IC so hopefully that shouldn't matter in TL upgrade.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
From what I read, RDO-198 and SL3000 are same
Not even close. Buy the RD0198-1's and be done with all that nonsense.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Not even close. Buy the RD0198-1's and be done with all that nonsense.
What F1 said . . one of the best $100 investments you will ever make (as many know, a properly TL'd 2B is one of my all-time favorite Polks).
As far as reversing the RTA8TL (removing an SL2500 and replacing with an SL2000), it can be done if you're absolutely convinced you must.
The 12uf cap bypassing the 2ohm resistor needs to be removed, the 16uf cap removed, and the 12uf put in the spot where 16 was (16 is no longer used). The 2.7ohm resistor in series with the .4mH inductor needs to be removed. The low pass is left alone, but may not blend as sonically well with the SL2000 because the original RTA8 used MW6510's (not that it can really be said the SL2000 ever blended well with anything).VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
Hmm... I read somewhere they are the same so made the assumption.Not even close. Buy the RD0198-1's and be done with all that nonsense.
But if they are different, then my plan won't work. :redface:inspiredsports wrote: »What F1 said . . one of the best $100 investments you will ever make (as many know, a properly TL'd 2B is one of my all-time favorite Polks).
As far as reversing the RTA8TL (removing an SL2500 and replacing with an SL2000), it can be done if you're absolutely convinced you must.
The 12uf cap bypassing the 2ohm resistor needs to be removed, the 16uf cap removed, and the 12uf put in the spot where 16 was (16 is no longer used). The 2.7ohm resistor in series with the .4mH inductor needs to be removed. The low pass is left alone, but may not blend as sonically well with the SL2000 because the original RTA8 used MW6510's (not that it can really be said the SL2000 ever blended well with anything).
Looks like too much work to reverse TL so forget 8TL to 8T.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
I read somewhere they are the same so made the assumption.
They are the same in the sense that the RD0198-1 is the replacement for the SL3000, but the RD0198-1 sounds much better. Also keep in mind that the SL3000's are 20+ years old and the ferrofluid has turned to a dried up gummy mess by now, so they are all on borrowed time.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
They are the same in the sense that the RD0198-1 is the replacement for the SL3000, but the RD0198-1 sounds much better. Also keep in mind that the SL3000's are 20+ years old and the ferrofluid has turned to a dried up gummy mess by now, so they are all on borrowed time.
I see. Thanks for info...
I think I'll do it step by step.
I like them as it is but will upgrade existing caps/resistors soon for SL2000.
Listen to them and then if I don't like SL2000, move to TL upgrade as that only needs one 5.8 uf cap extra and simple enough to add. :cool:
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
