Good speaker wire
slester99
Posts: 8
I have Lsi 15s and a xpa-5 amp, I was wondering if y'all have any suggestions on good affordable speaker wire. I would like to get as much out of the speakers as posible. I'm using some monster xp wire right now that I got cheap. Any suggestions?
Post edited by slester99 on
Comments
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Click advanced search, type in speaker wire, clck titles only. Should keep ya reading for the rest of the weekend. Welcome to CP & goodluck.
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I like Signal Cable's Ultra speaker cables. Very well-made product, and good customer service at a great price.
http://signalcable.com/ultraspeaker.html2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's
Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses
Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's -
I would suggest getting your read on as there are thousands of cable threads on this subject. To break it down quickly here are a couple of the most recommended brands for those looking to get better than Monoprice stuff.
Signal Cables - Good cables, we get a break on price so make sure you mention your a Club Polk Member
Blue Jeans Cable - Also really good but the preference is normally Signal Cables over Blue Jeans
DouglassConnection - Doug is a member here on the forum (helipilotdoug). His cables are custom made so you can get custom lengths to fit your needs. I have talked to him and he is a great guy!"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Don't forget DIY.
There are some truly excellent designs that you can make if you're willing to invest some sweat equity."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Cool thanks guy
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EndersShadow wrote: »DouglassConnection - Doug is a member here on the forum (helipilotdoug). His cables are custom made so you can get custom lengths to fit your needs. I have talked to him and he is a great guy!Sunfire Theater Grand IV
Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
SRS 2.1TL
SDA 2BTL's
CSiA6
FXiA4
FXiA6
SDA 2A's
Monitor 10A's
http://www.douglasconnection.com -
doug i just wanna say thank you for your service, i love how were both military dudes and both with the name douglas too2 Channel(work in progress):DAC: Schiit modi 2 uberAmp:Parasound 1200 MK IISub:RBH 1010-SEP Speakers: Monitor 5A peerlesscurrently running some krk rokit 3g since the HK pre outs died and i need to start breaking everything down to move in a couple monthsHeadphones:Source: tidalDAC: schiit modius epre: schiit sysAmp: AQ dragonfly black/ schiit magni2 Cans: Velodyne V-True, Grado SR225i, sennheiser x drop gaming headsetPC:DAC: schiit modius e(over spdif)pre: schiit sysspeakers: prenous eris 5 xtSub: Earthquake Sound MiniMe-P63most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know "WITH WILLING HEARTS AND SKILLFUL HANDS, THE DIFFICULT WE DO AT ONCE, THE IMPOSSIBLE TAKES A BIT LONGER, WITH COMPASSION FOR OTHERS. WE BUILD - WE FIGHT FOR PEACE WITH FREEDOM"Seabee Memorial, Arlington, VA
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Thank you for your service too. If I can help you with anything, please let me know. I'll give you a Military discount, as well as a Club Polk discount. Save you some $Sunfire Theater Grand IV
Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
SRS 2.1TL
SDA 2BTL's
CSiA6
FXiA4
FXiA6
SDA 2A's
Monitor 10A's
http://www.douglasconnection.com -
thank you, i was really interested in those furez plugs so i will be in touch2 Channel(work in progress):DAC: Schiit modi 2 uberAmp:Parasound 1200 MK IISub:RBH 1010-SEP Speakers: Monitor 5A peerlesscurrently running some krk rokit 3g since the HK pre outs died and i need to start breaking everything down to move in a couple monthsHeadphones:Source: tidalDAC: schiit modius epre: schiit sysAmp: AQ dragonfly black/ schiit magni2 Cans: Velodyne V-True, Grado SR225i, sennheiser x drop gaming headsetPC:DAC: schiit modius e(over spdif)pre: schiit sysspeakers: prenous eris 5 xtSub: Earthquake Sound MiniMe-P63most of my comments are passing on of info, im a noob, im just trying to help how i can, if im wrong or out of place to comment, dont hesitate to let me know "WITH WILLING HEARTS AND SKILLFUL HANDS, THE DIFFICULT WE DO AT ONCE, THE IMPOSSIBLE TAKES A BIT LONGER, WITH COMPASSION FOR OTHERS. WE BUILD - WE FIGHT FOR PEACE WITH FREEDOM"Seabee Memorial, Arlington, VA
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There's always the Rodger Russel way of thinking. Depending on the length of runs it does not matter what wire you run at long as it'sat least 16gu and w/in 20'.Me again I'm going w/ the McIntosh engineer, inventor,writer of multiple papers and as of yet not to be proven wrong . If you have the $ to spend hundreds on a few feet of cables be my guest. I do not think you will hear any difference if you had to justify the coin you just spent.For ICs though I did go w/Frank at Signal Cable and they were a fine product,but once the llenghts start to add up your looking at a big pile of money to spend.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
LW, are you professing to tell people what they will hear.....not having experienced it yourself ?
Incidently, since you brought up Mcintosch, not one person I know of who owns that gear, has it hooked up to home depot 14ga wire or monoprice type wire.....not one.
Cables are like a piece of gear in your system and your system is only as good as the weakest link.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
leftwinger57 wrote: »There's always the Rodger Russel way of thinking.
Stick your head in the sand, and ignore all the data and people who swear different cable gives different sound? Or be a lemming and say you read something on the Internet, so it must be true?Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
leftwinger57 wrote: »There's always the Rodger Russel way of thinking."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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I think this is a reasonable view of cables from Steve Guttenberg:
High-end cables are a controversial subject, even among audiophiles. I know an extremely wealthy audiophile who uses cheap hardware store wire in his $200,000 hi-fi system. He thinks audiophile cables don't make a difference, so he doesn't use them. That's fine with me.
When I was a high-end audio salesman I sold a lot of very expensive wires to my customers, including customers that didn't initially believe cables would make any real difference in the sound of their hi-fis. "It's just wire" was the classic rebuke, I've heard it thousands of times. I'd offer my customers a choice of "free" wire or high-end cables for $500 or more. Some customers would just take the free cables and be done with it. But I'd get some doubters willing to try the expensive cables, with a promise that I'd return their money if they didn't hear a difference. I'd suggest starting with the good cables and live with them for two weeks, and then replace the expensive wires with the free ones. If they sounded the same, great, they'd get their money back. Only one out of four would bring back the expensive cables, and I think that best demonstrates my case. Even when people are motivated to return cables to get a refund, most did not. They heard enough of a difference to keep the expensive wires.
I do not recommend quickly switching back and forth between cheap and expensive cables, that mostly produces confusion, and "proves" there's no difference. The best way to determine the worth of the wire (or any upgrade) is to simply live with it for at least a week, then go back to your original gear. If at that point you don't hear a difference, don't buy the new cable. That's the bottom line: don't invest in better cables if you can't hear the difference.
I believe the right cables do make a difference, but before we go any further I have to concede that "better wire" probably wouldn't be the best way to spend your money if your hi-fi isn't pretty good to start with. Redirecting that $500 to better speakers, an amp, or turntable would provide a far better return on investment. If you're not an audiophile, I agree, investing in better cables isn't a smart move.
But once you have a well-matched, $4,000+ system, a $500 cable upgrade might be worth considering. I use XLO Signature 3 cables in my high-end system with my Magnepan 3.6 speakers, Parasound JC-2 preamp and Pass Labs XA100.5 power amps. The XLO cables produce a more precise soundstage, higher-definition bass, and sweeter treble than any other cables I've tried. I recently added AudioQuest Sky interconnect cables between my VPI Classic turntable and the preamplifier, and the AQ cable unleashed a significantly more holographic soundstage, with less background noise than any other cable. I use Zu Audio cables when I'm using Zu speakers in my system, the cable/speaker synergy brings out the best in the Zu speakers sound. -
The quality of the wire in cabling is only one part of their sound quality. IMHO just as important is dielectric, geometry, quality of connectors.
In my system, with my ears, there's no doubt that cabling makes a difference - I've heard it. Cables don't have to be uber expensive either if you DIY."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
leftwinger57 wrote: »...it does not matter what wire you run...I'm going w/ the McIntosh engineer, inventor etc...
There are a lot of smart engineers on both sides of this topic. I suggest trying for yourself and going with your own ears. Plus, when someone comes here looking for advice, it's a lot more meaningful if you can say "well, in own experimentation I found that ________", as opposed to saying "well, I read somewhere that some guy thinks _________".
Cheers.2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's
Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses
Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's -
These threads remind me of two people arguing over which is better a Chevy truck, or a GMC truck. When the answer is obvious GMC is the best, of course.Radio Station W7ITC
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I think this is a reasonable view of cables from Steve Guttenberg:
Btw, the comments section from the original article quickly disintegrated into the very type of thread that occurs everywhere this subject arises. Even after a well-written piece that acknowledges both sides of the "debate". If you can detect a difference, good for you. If you can't, that's fine for you, too. Unfortunately, never the twain shall meet. -
I agree w/Z man, Drummer, & that Falcon dude! I'll chime in w/a paraphrase of part of Z's post as it was the mantra where I worked*worked back in the mid '80s for all products: if you can't here the diff, why pay for it? (Z: "That's the bottom line: don't invest in better cables if you can't hear the difference.")
My $.02 on a topic we SO need a sticky AND waste TOO MUCH cybor space arguing.Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Here's one for all on both sides of this argument:
I had 2 dual driver DIY subs* each connected w/a single run 10' of 10 ga, XO'd @ 80hz. Later, just for fun, I bi-wired them w/a double 5' run of that 10 ga. Imagine my unexpected surprise that I had turn down my now too loud subs because my system CLEARLY sounded unbalanced!
* important: 3 ohm final impedance!Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
I have Lsi 15s and a xpa-5 amp, I was wondering if y'all have any suggestions on good affordable speaker wire. I would like to get as much out of the speakers as posible. I'm using some monster xp wire right now that I got cheap. Any suggestions?
Addressing the comment in bold, at this time you'd be better served by getting a better amp. What are you using for a pre amp, a source?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Forget new wire or amps for now. Look into proper room treatments and speaker positioning. It will get you more for your money.
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Forget new wire or amps for now. Look into proper room treatments and speaker positioning. It will get you more for your money.
This times elebenty. I've experienced rather large differences by moving speakers a few inches towards or away from a wall, toe-ing them in or out, using carpet spikes, using acoustic panels, ect ect. I've had more than a few people listen to two channel music and honestly believe the center channel was working. The upgrade from a Marantz SR7002 to a 7006 even in pure direct mode gave a slightly wider center image.
Play with it, play with all of it.Up
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500