RTA 8T - Fix or gut?
Shike
Posts: 12
Hey everyone,
Recently got a pair of RTA 8T's, but one of the drivers is frozen thanks to magnet slip (of course). I've here for a few opinions on what I should do with them. I'm not sure if there's a driver that will work well as a replacement, if I should wait and try to grab a MW 6516 when/if one shows up, or just gut them for parts and throw them on the bay' for those that are also in need of parts and call it a day.
Thoughts?
Recently got a pair of RTA 8T's, but one of the drivers is frozen thanks to magnet slip (of course). I've here for a few opinions on what I should do with them. I'm not sure if there's a driver that will work well as a replacement, if I should wait and try to grab a MW 6516 when/if one shows up, or just gut them for parts and throw them on the bay' for those that are also in need of parts and call it a day.
Thoughts?
Post edited by Shike on
Comments
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Hey everyone,
Recently got a pair of RTA 8T's, but one of the drivers is frozen thanks to magnet slip (of course). I've here for a few opinions on what I should do with them. I'm not sure if there's a driver that will work well as a replacement, if I should wait and try to grab a MW 6516 when/if one shows up, or just gut them for parts and throw them on the bay' for those that are also in need of parts and call it a day.
Thoughts?
Not sure what your other gear is but, they are worth fixing. Second in line to the SDA series, the RTA 8Ts do everything well, are easily modified and have a small footprint. I would replace with original and enjoy! -
Alright,
One more question - is there any preventative care I can take on the other drivers to prevent their magnets from slipping over time as it seems to be a semi-common problem? -
I have a MW6516 driver with your name on it if you want it..
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JB-Weld, or other forms of two-part Epoxy. You can use a cheap flux brush to apply it. Some put 4 or 5 dabs around the perimeter where the magnet meets the back plate. I do the complete perimeter just to be sure. Use a slower setting Epoxy which will give you more working time. Set all your drivers up, mix up a good size batch, and dress them one at a time.Alright,
One more question - is there any preventative care I can take on the other drivers to prevent their magnets from slipping over time as it seems to be a semi-common problem?Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »JB-Weld, or other forms of two-part Epoxy. You can use a cheap flux brush to apply it. Some put 4 or 5 dabs around the perimeter where the magnet meets the back plate. I do the complete perimeter just to be sure. Use a slower setting Epoxy which will give you more working time. Set all your drivers up, mix up a good size batch, and dress them one at a time.
Alright, I'll do it later today or tomorrow. -
I have a MW6516 driver with your name on it if you want it..
Sending you a PM regarding this
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Nice Toolfan. Karma for sure headed your way!
-Saftgeek -
If you're just going to pitch the frozen driver send it my way and I'll try to reset it for you. All it would cost you is shipping. If I can't fix it I'll deposit it in the recycle bin for you.
-Saftgeek -
If you're just going to pitch the frozen driver send it my way and I'll try to reset it for you. All it would cost you is shipping. If I can't fix it I'll deposit it in the recycle bin for you.
-Saftgeek
The driver is pretty much dead, it took me forever to figure out what was wrong with it unfortunately.
In other news, I hooked up the one good speaker and . . . the upper treble just seems non-existent. I moved the 6.5" drivers to the other box and . . . same thing. Very bassy/boxy, cymbals seem stifled, but the tweeter is working. I also found out these are early 8TL with the SL2500 tweeter. I don't know what to think honestly, am I being unfair comparing them to NHT Classic 2's and Magnepan MMG's?
It's making choosing to repair them a harder decision.
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Figured out, seems like the tweeters are pooched too. Looks like it's going to be a money sink to fix them >_>'
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If the cabinets are MINT, keep them. Otherwise I'd ditch them and sell everything you can. I've owned over a hundred pairs of Polk's and its always for one thing in mind....finding the right pair in the absolute best condition with as much original stuff possible. Sometimes you win in one category and lose in the rest but eventually you find that gem or assemble the magic set. Don't lose any sleep over parting a speaker out, especially Polk since there so many more although I may be biased since I live in Polk Audio central when it comes to finding them used.
If you keep them based on stellar condition, source a driver and get new RD-0194 tweeters in them. Upgrade the binders and pick up a set of the foam gaskets BRGMAN has for sale here. Those small upgrades will then have an inexpensive, new benchmark for you to assess your next move. You may never be the same and they will sound ever better than you recall.
EDIT: Yeah, that's a big investment, even if they're drop dead.
MarkCTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
