RTA 12B tweeter protection

cwsmith68
cwsmith68 Posts: 434
edited September 2012 in Vintage Speakers
Has anyone ever removed or replaced the fuse and fuse holder with something else? Jumper wire or circuit breaker or something besides a new fuse holder? Just curious to see if there are any other options. Would it be unwise to remove and just replace with a jumper?
Main system:
Denon PRA-1500, Denon POA-2400, Denon TU-660, Denon DCD-2560, Denon DVD-2910, Denon DRS-640, Denon DP-30L II w/DL-301 mc cart, BSR EQ-3000, DCM Timeframe 600's
Post edited by cwsmith68 on
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,647
    edited September 2012
    As long as you pay attention replacing it with a jumper should be ok. If you have replaced them with newer RDO replacements the jumper is perfectly fine. Those old tweeters though are known to blow so be careful.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited September 2012
    If you remove the fuse be sure to use quality amplification with enough juice. Driving an amp into clipping is a sure fire way to blow the tweeter.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • cwsmith68
    cwsmith68 Posts: 434
    edited September 2012
    Well right now I am driving each speaker with a bridged HafLer DH-200. That should be enough, shouldn't it? I have the Peerless tweets in until I get around to purchasing the 194's.
    Main system:
    Denon PRA-1500, Denon POA-2400, Denon TU-660, Denon DCD-2560, Denon DVD-2910, Denon DRS-640, Denon DP-30L II w/DL-301 mc cart, BSR EQ-3000, DCM Timeframe 600's
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited September 2012
    l would think so. Have you tried using one DH-200 in stereo mode?

    Many here on CP think that stereo amps in bridged mode don't sound as clean as in stereo. What you want to avoid is increasing the volume to the point where the amp is attempting to deliver more power than it's capable of, clipping the wave forms.

    I have fused tweeters in my RTA 12C's - the next time I feel like messing with them I'll remove them and replace them with a small resistor. FYI I've never blown the fuses and have had 'em loud enough that it's not comfortable to be in the same room :lol:
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • cwsmith68
    cwsmith68 Posts: 434
    edited September 2012
    drumminman wrote: »
    I have fused tweeters in my RTA 12C's - the next time I feel like messing with them I'll remove them and replace them with a small resistor. FYI I've never blown the fuses and have had 'em loud enough that it's not comfortable to be in the same room :lol:

    What size resistor would you suggest?
    Main system:
    Denon PRA-1500, Denon POA-2400, Denon TU-660, Denon DCD-2560, Denon DVD-2910, Denon DRS-640, Denon DP-30L II w/DL-301 mc cart, BSR EQ-3000, DCM Timeframe 600's
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,446
    edited September 2012
    cwsmith68 wrote: »
    I have the Peerless tweets in until I get around to purchasing the 194's.

    The XO for the peerless is different than the XO for the sl1000 and sl2000. I would check first to see what you may need to change to make it more compatibly with the rdo-194. the second is that when we switch out poly switch for resistor in the sl2000 XO most go with .5ohm mills resistor. you do understand that the bezel for the sl2000/rdo-194 is slightly bigger which means you'll have to cut a little to make it fit unless your peerless just sits on the front baffle if it's inletted you'll need to cut.
    personally i do not know anybody that has switched from peerless to 194 most who have the peerless really love them.
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  • cwsmith68
    cwsmith68 Posts: 434
    edited September 2012
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    The XO for the peerless is different than the XO for the sl1000 and sl2000. I would check first to see what you may need to change to make it more compatibly with the rdo-194. the second is that when we switch out poly switch for resistor in the sl2000 XO most go with .5ohm mills resistor. you do understand that the bezel for the sl2000/rdo-194 is slightly bigger which means you'll have to cut a little to make it fit unless your peerless just sits on the front baffle if it's inletted you'll need to cut.
    personally i do not know anybody that has switched from peerless to 194 most who have the peerless really love them.

    These actually came with SL1000'S. One of them was damaged in shipping. That is what started my Polk journey with all the fine people here. I couldn't find another SL1000 so I bought the set of Peerless to replace those.
    So the crossover is compatible with the RD-094 upgrade I believe. The peerless are just standing in until I fork out the cash for the new RDO's. Am I ok here or am I incorrect in my assumption? Hope I am ok because I just completed the cap replacement on these.
    Main system:
    Denon PRA-1500, Denon POA-2400, Denon TU-660, Denon DCD-2560, Denon DVD-2910, Denon DRS-640, Denon DP-30L II w/DL-301 mc cart, BSR EQ-3000, DCM Timeframe 600's
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited September 2012
    cwsmith68 wrote: »
    These actually came with SL1000'S. One of them was damaged in shipping. That is what started my Polk journey with all the fine people here. I couldn't find another SL1000 so I bought the set of Peerless to replace those.
    So the crossover is compatible with the RD-094 upgrade I believe. The peerless are just standing in until I fork out the cash for the new RDO's. Am I ok here or am I incorrect in my assumption? Hope I am ok because I just completed the cap replacement on these.
    The pamphlet that comes with the RDO-194 states exact replacement for the SL1000 and SL2000, so your crossover should be just fine. As pitdogg2 suggested, use a .5 ohm Mills Resistor in place of the fuse, providing you have quality amps. If you want to play it safe however, a new fuse holder and .75 amp fuse would not hurt either. Also as stated the bezel on the RDO-194 is slightly larger. Not sure on your RTA-12B if the tweeter is inset of surface mounted to the high frequency module.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • cwsmith68
    cwsmith68 Posts: 434
    edited September 2012
    westmassguy wrote: »
    The pamphlet that comes with the RDO-194 states exact replacement for the SL1000 and SL2000, so your crossover should be just fine. As pitdogg2 suggested, use a .5 ohm Mills Resistor in place of the fuse, providing you have quality amps. If you want to play it safe however, a new fuse holder and .75 amp fuse would not hurt either. Also as stated the bezel on the RDO-194 is slightly larger. Not sure on your RTA-12B if the tweeter is inset of surface mounted to the high frequency module.

    It is slightly inset. I suppose I will have to do a little trimming on the mounting surface.
    Thanks everyone for all the help.
    Main system:
    Denon PRA-1500, Denon POA-2400, Denon TU-660, Denon DCD-2560, Denon DVD-2910, Denon DRS-640, Denon DP-30L II w/DL-301 mc cart, BSR EQ-3000, DCM Timeframe 600's
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited September 2012
    I would buy resistors in several different values: a 0.22 and a 0.5, both 12 watt. I've read that the 12W sound a little better in the mills.

    Try 'em both and pick which one you like better. Some folks here have posted that with some models of SDA speakers they think the 0.5 rolls off the highs a little too much.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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