Hurricane Nuts for Monitor 5's
audiocr381ve
Posts: 2,588
I bought some #8-32 hurricane nuts for my Monitor 5 Series II speakers. I have no clue how to install them though haha. I remember Jesse mentioning to just drill out where the original holes were and not to over-complicate things. My question is what size drill bit?
I haven't bought screws for them yet. Are they something I could run to Home Depot and pick up? I also remember hearing that I need "cap screws." Forgive my elementary level knowledge of screws, but how would I go about finding these if they are at Home Depot? Do I look for #8-32 cap screws?
I haven't bought screws for them yet. Are they something I could run to Home Depot and pick up? I also remember hearing that I need "cap screws." Forgive my elementary level knowledge of screws, but how would I go about finding these if they are at Home Depot? Do I look for #8-32 cap screws?
Post edited by audiocr381ve on
Comments
-
You'll need a 13/64" drill bit.audiocr381ve wrote: »I bought some #8-32 hurricane nuts for my Monitor 5 Series II speakers. I have no clue how to install them though haha. I remember Jesse mentioning to just drill out where the original holes were and not to over-complicate things. My question is what size drill bit?
I haven't bought screws for them yet. Are they something I could run to Home Depot and pick up? I also remember hearing that I need "cap screws." Forgive my elementary level knowledge of screws, but how would I go about finding these if they are at Home Depot? Do I look for #8-32 cap screws?
When I did all my drivers, I used these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330611643249?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
They're a dead ringer for the original screws Polk used.
To install them, drill out the holes perfectly plumb. Hold the Hurricane nut against the hole from behind. Insert one of the screws with a small washer under it into the hole, hand thread it to start, then using a philips bit on your drill, tighten the screw slowly. When the screw and washer touch the particle board, the threads will pull the Hurricane nut up into the hole. Stop when the Hurricane nut and the screw and washer are snug. Do not over-tighten. The washer keeps the screw head from digging into the particle board.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
This is what a cap screw looks like: http://www.servocity.com/html/8-32_socket_head_machine_cap_s.htmlaudiocr381ve wrote: »I bought some #8-32 hurricane nuts for my Monitor 5 Series II speakers. I have no clue how to install them though haha. I remember Jesse mentioning to just drill out where the original holes were and not to over-complicate things. My question is what size drill bit?
I haven't bought screws for them yet. Are they something I could run to Home Depot and pick up? I also remember hearing that I need "cap screws." Forgive my elementary level knowledge of screws, but how would I go about finding these if they are at Home Depot? Do I look for #8-32 cap screws?
Some guys like them for a custom look. I prefer the stock look myself.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks westmassguy, very helpful. I ended up finding some cap screws that are PERFECT in the toolbox.
I drilled a few test holes into some scrap wood using a 1/4 drill bit. It is VERY tight, but I'm able to get the screw in just fine. Is this acceptable? -
Are you sure it was a 1/4" bit? That's 16/64", which is too big. The Hurricane nut may hold in scrap wood, but particle board is a lot softer, and weaker.audiocr381ve wrote: »Thanks westmassguy, very helpful. I ended up finding some cap screws that are PERFECT in the toolbox.
I drilled a few test holes into some scrap wood using a 1/4 drill bit. It is VERY tight, but I'm able to get the screw in just fine. Is this acceptable?Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Whoops, sorry it was a 3/16 bit. Would this size work?
-
That's 12/64", just a hair smaller. If you can't find a 13/64", then I would carefully drill a test hole in one of the locations you're going to use. Again, make sure the drill is plumb, you don't want the Hurricane nut going in skewed, because the screw will then be skewed. Let the weight of the drill make the hole. In other words, don't put any pressure on it. Particle board is very soft, and if you put too much pressure on the drill, you could blow out a chunk on the back side, which gives the Hurricane nut less to grab on to.
Once the drill bottoms out, carefully draw the drill up while still turning, and then down again a few times, very slowly. This should ream the hole a little bit, enough to make the hole a little bigger.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
13/64" is what I used as well. It was a tight, but good fit. I hand tightened the nuts into the wood using a screw and some washers to pull it flush. I also used JB Weld to secure the nut into the wood.......I know, over zealous. I used the screws from Parts Express, and everything worked perfectly.
Good luck! -
Buy the proper size drill bit...only a few dollars at the hardware store.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks guys! Will buy a 13/64 drill bit.
-
Is it better to run the drill at a high rpm or a lower rpm to prevent chipping around the hole? My drill is variable speed but it also has a low and high speed setting.
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
-
As I recall, I ran med, med-low speed. It's only about a 1/2" thick if the drivers are recessed.Is it better to run the drill at a high rpm or a lower rpm to prevent chipping around the hole? My drill is variable speed but it also has a low and high speed setting.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks for the tip!
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
-
Installed the hurricane nuts tonight and it was a BREEZE. They are very secure and worked like a charm! Thanks for all the help guys.
-
Worth mentioning, if using cap screws on the PR's you should use a #8 washer as the basket holes tend to be slightly larger than the driver basket holes and it's really easy for the cap screw to go thru the hole. I tried brass washers first, but found they are too soft. I then went with SS black oxide, perfect.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Awesome. Glad they worked out for you.audiocr381ve wrote: »Installed the hurricane nuts tonight and it was a BREEZE. They are very secure and worked like a charm! Thanks for all the help guys.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
That's one of the reasons I was glad I found the black oxide, ss pan heads. They're a perfect match for the original sheetmetal screws Polk used, and easily hold both baskets in place. Plus they won't rust like the originals did.Worth mentioning, if using cap screws on the PR's you should use a #8 washer as the basket holes tend to be slightly larger than the driver basket holes and it's really easy for the cap screw to go thru the hole. I tried brass washers first, but found they are too soft. I then went with SS black oxide, perfect.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
You're welcome TennMan. Any other custom projects in the works? I just finished my center channel, and am now working on a custom set of Monitor 7s.Thanks for the tip!Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Worth mentioning, if using cap screws on the PR's you should use a #8 washer as the basket holes tend to be slightly larger than the driver basket holes and it's really easy for the cap screw to go thru the hole. I tried brass washers first, but found they are too soft. I then went with SS black oxide, perfect.
Excellent point. I used stainless steel washers....not at all obtrusive cosmetics...
