amping monitor series 5.1

sponger
sponger Posts: 325
edited July 2012 in Speakers
Have a CS2 center with M70 fronts and M30s in the back for a 5.1.

I was considering a Russound X225 (225W/Chann) for the front M70s. But, the CS2 center and M30 surrounds will be running off the AVR at 75W/Chann.

So my question is this: Is the amount of wattage going to the M70s too disproportionate to what the other channels are receiving? With the total wattage of the center and surrounds adding up to only what one of the front L R channels is getting, is there too much wattage inequality in my 5.1 set-up? Will this lop-sided wattage distribution create an invisible ceiling for the other channels, thus undermining the sonic integrity of the system as a whole?

I should probably mention that the AVR has the Audyssey set-up function.
Denon X7200WA
LSiM 705 703 704c
Denon DP 400
Yamaha CDC 775
Post edited by sponger on

Comments

  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited June 2012
    I hate to break it to you, but you don't have preouts to add a separate amp, so you would have to upgrade your receiver first.

    Once you had the amp in place all you have to do is calibrate all of your speakers to level all the speakers. But what you will notice is the greater clarity that your M70s will have over your other speakers.

    Which will get you to wondering just how much better the rest of the speakers will sound amped up.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,008
    edited June 2012
    Honestly, if I were you, I'd save the coin. The monitor series is very easy to drive even with a budget receiver. Plus you have a subwoofer holding up the low end so thats even less power soaked up by the speakers.

    Maybe save some coin and upgrade the receiver down the line to one with preouts and a tad more power, then see if you still want to add an amp after listening to that.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • sponger
    sponger Posts: 325
    edited June 2012
    Thanks for the advice. The Russound has speaker-level inputs, so it is an option. That is unless speaker-level inputs have an adverse impact on fidelity. Just noticed, however, that it's rated at 225W /Chann at 4 ohms. Being as that the M70s have an 8 ohm impedence, I'm not really sure anymore if the price of that amp would be worth it.
    Denon X7200WA
    LSiM 705 703 704c
    Denon DP 400
    Yamaha CDC 775
  • HTguru1982
    HTguru1982 Posts: 1,066
    edited June 2012
    Your receiver needs to have preouts to make hook-up to an amp possible and yours does NOT. There's no way to make it work. Zip. Nada. And not that it matters since you don't have preouts, but the amp will be able to power your 8 ohm speakers. The fact that it can also power 4 ohm speakers doesn't mean a thing, expect that is a very capable amplifier.
    Display: Sony 42" LCD
    Sources: Harman Kardon DVD-27,
    Panasonic DMP-BDT110 blu ray player
    AVR: Sony STR-DA2400ES
    Amps: Sonance Sonamp 260(fronts),
    Kenwood KM-894(surrounds)
    Fronts: NHT 2.5
    Center: NHT VS-1.2A
    Surrounds: NHT Super One
    Subwoofer: SVS PB10-ISD
  • sponger
    sponger Posts: 325
    edited June 2012
    HTguru1982 wrote: »
    Your receiver needs to have preouts to make hook-up to an amp possible and yours does NOT. There's no way to make it work. Zip. Nada.

    The amp has speaker-level inputs. Thank you for your input. It was very helpful.
    Denon X7200WA
    LSiM 705 703 704c
    Denon DP 400
    Yamaha CDC 775
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited June 2012
    The receiver needs to have speaker OUTPUTS not INPUTS. Those inputs are for multi-channel in from a Blu-ray or SACD player, not for amps!

    Though the Monitor series is not hard to drive. The M-70s do NOT sound their best unless they have some decent power behind them. In my experience a true 130 watt AVR with real 130 watt per channel output (like my Onkyo TX-SR-805) is the minimum power that can actually make the 70s sound reasonable. If you put a 200 watt x 2 power amp on them, you'll really hear what those much maligned entry level towers are capable of (i.e., outperforming Rti-8s IMO!).

    As to powering your speakers. Get something that can do the front three justice or get an AVR with pre-outs and amplification for the M-70s and the CS2. You've got to match the front three at least!

    I know, I know. More purchases, more money. Not much we can do there!

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • sponger
    sponger Posts: 325
    edited June 2012
    The amplifier itself --not the receiver-- has speaker-level inputs. Here is the amp:

    http://www.russound.com/product_detail.php?i=3248

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that mean that I can connect the receiver to the amp via a pair of speaker wires? Is that not what speaker-level inputs are?

    Also, you said that M70s need 200W to really come alive. But the amp is rated to produce 150W with an 8 ohm load. That's certainly a lot better than what I"ve got now, but not enough to justify the price of that amp, IMO. Plus, you did imply that it would be redundant to juice the M70s without including the CS2, so I guess I'm going to drop the idea anyway -- speaker level inputs or no speaker level inputs.
    Denon X7200WA
    LSiM 705 703 704c
    Denon DP 400
    Yamaha CDC 775
  • Silverfang2340
    Silverfang2340 Posts: 42
    edited July 2012
    sponger wrote: »
    The amplifier itself --not the receiver-- has speaker-level inputs. Here is the amp:

    http://www.russound.com/product_detail.php?i=3248

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that mean that I can connect the receiver to the amp via a pair of speaker wires? Is that not what speaker-level inputs are?

    Also, you said that M70s need 200W to really come alive. But the amp is rated to produce 150W with an 8 ohm load. That's certainly a lot better than what I"ve got now, but not enough to justify the price of that amp, IMO. Plus, you did imply that it would be redundant to juice the M70s without including the CS2, so I guess I'm going to drop the idea anyway -- speaker level inputs or no speaker level inputs.

    Take a look at this picture first,
    receiver.jpg


    Notice where it says PREOUT, then FRONT (white and red jacks), that is where your rca's would connect from your amps corresponding left and right channels. If you choose to get a 3 channel amp, you can then connect your center speaker as well, or buy a separate amp to power it.

    Hope this helps
    Current setup: Harman Kardon HKTS 30BQ

    Next setup: Polk RTI A7's
    Polk CSi A6
    HSU VTF-2 MK4 12" SUB
    Undecided on surround
  • ravaneli
    ravaneli Posts: 530
    edited July 2012
    sponger, don't pay attention to them, they are confused. You are correct, speaker level input means what you think it does. You CAN use that amp with your receiver. The power difference between that amp and your receiver will be substantial, more than twice for sure. The watts of the amp are real, and it will feed the lower impedances much better than your receiver and can handle much higher currents.
    One thing to note with that configuration - you will want to turn the volume of Front left and front right DOWN on your receiver so you can use the amp for the amplification! hope that makes sense.

    All that said, i would have to agree with tonyb that if it were me I would save the coin. You will not be amazed when you add the amp, other that it will be able to go louder. If you listened to 2.0 with just the towers.. you will probably find nice improvement on the mid and high volume, but since you have a center the towers are having auxiliary function and don't play much and don't consume much power anyway.

    All your components are a good match, same quality level. Keep em as is. When time comes, you will need a new system altogether. No point of good avr/amp with this kind of speakers (sorry) and no point of good speakers with this kind of avr. So keep what u got until u ready for the next level : )
    BlueFox wrote: »
    I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs. :wink:
    But as in all things your perception is your reality.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    edited July 2012
    Yes unfortunately I have to agree with ravaneli here. Some of the nicest and most educated polkies don't read before they respond :wink:

    I have an audiosource amp 200 that is set up the same way. You can connect the traditional way using preouts to the line-in on the amp, then connect speaker wire from the binding posts of the amp to the speakers (the method that I am using), or you can run speaker wire out of the fl and fr on your receiver to the speaker line level inputs on the amp, then continue to the speakers as above. Basically utilizing the same technology as lots of subs (this is in fact how my sub in my office is connected, using speaker line level inputs and outputs). So yes, you can add the amp to your current setup.

    As for whether you should, I am tending to agree with everyone above. For the price those generally sell for, I would put that 250-300 into a new more powerful avr with preouts, which will give at least a little more power to all of your speakers, and allow for future upgrades.

    Good luck!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • sponger
    sponger Posts: 325
    edited July 2012
    Either way, I think everyone had the intention of being helpful and so I can appreciate that. In another thread titled "2 chann amp, ohms, and bi-wiring question," this subject was mulled over again and it was decided that speaker-level inputs would sound horrible. Someone also mentioned that they would make me the laughing stock of the forums, and that is something I definitely want to avoid at all costs.

    I remember that car audio amplifiers including the pricier ones from JL Audio and Alpine also have speaker-level inputs for obvious reasons concerning limitations presented by vehicle installations. I never used them, but I always figured that they wouldn't be there if they weren't comparable to low-level (i.e., pre-amp level) inputs. But some searches over the wireless internets turned up enough evidence to convince me otherwise.

    Then again, rooftop59, you are using speaker-level inputs for your mains and you have no complaints?
    Denon X7200WA
    LSiM 705 703 704c
    Denon DP 400
    Yamaha CDC 775
  • ravaneli
    ravaneli Posts: 530
    edited July 2012
    it will be tricky because you have to properly select the point of amplification. If the AVR sends very low level signal and all amplification happens at the amp it should work fine. I tested my DSW660 sub with speaker level input and i couldn't tell the difference to be honest, but that's a sub.

    The good thing about going with that amp is that if you get preouts later you can still use it with the preouts.
    BlueFox wrote: »
    I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs. :wink:
    But as in all things your perception is your reality.
  • sponger
    sponger Posts: 325
    edited July 2012
    ravaneli wrote: »
    The good thing about going with that amp is that if you get preouts later you can still use it with the preouts.

    I was thinking the same thing. At least it will hold me over until such point in time when I can set things up proper. Still probably not gonna do it though. The consensus seems to be that patience and planning will pay off.
    Denon X7200WA
    LSiM 705 703 704c
    Denon DP 400
    Yamaha CDC 775
  • hertz9753
    hertz9753 Posts: 310
    edited July 2012
    sponger wrote: »
    I was thinking the same thing. At least it will hold me over until such point in time when I can set things up proper. Still probably not gonna do it though. The consensus seems to be that patience and planning will pay off.

    Good luck with your furture upgrades. You should add Denon 1612 in your sig. I have a Denon 1911 in my bedroom with the same front 3 speakers you are running. :smile:
    AVR-Onkyo TX-NR808
    Front amp-Adcom GFA 555>Polk Audio LSi9's(Vr3 Castle Mods)
    Center amp-Adcom GFA 5400>Polk Audio LSi9 bi-wired(Vr3 Castle Mod)
    Surrounds-Polk Audio F/X500's<Onkyo TX-NR808
    Sub-Velodyne SPL-1000R