Benefit to Bi-Amping Rti12's?

mufsoman
mufsoman Posts: 632
edited June 2012 in Speakers
Looking for opinions or actual experience on whether there will be any benefit to bi-amping my Rti12's with the Rotel 1095 amp?

I would use a Y-splitter for both the Left and Right feed out of the SC07 so each bass and mid/highs can be powered by a separate channel in the Rotel. Rotel has 200wpc x 5 so not sure if there would realy be a noticeable difference vs. current set up? Five channels of the amp are powering L,C,R and surrounds. I would move the surrounds to the SC07.

Would this open up the 12's any more? I'm considering buying a pair of Y's to test and return if necessary, but thought I would ask here first before going through the effort. Thanks
Parasound HCA-2003A & 2205A
Front: Rti12's
Center: Csi A6
Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
APC H15
Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
The rest is TBD.
Post edited by mufsoman on

Comments

  • nhhiep
    nhhiep Posts: 877
    edited June 2012
    That should give you better sound because now each channel of the amp drives less woofers. I did the same with my HK Signature 2.1 5 channels 100WPC. It sounds better, until I got a Citation 5.1 with 300WPC in bridge mode. Now the Signature 2.1 just sits there useless. I also notice less bright sound.

    If you can bridge your amp to get more WPC, do it. My setup is almost like yours; AVR powers Center and Rears.

    but I'd say try it anyway, you have nothing to lose.
  • Dawgfish
    Dawgfish Posts: 2,554
    edited June 2012
    I tried bi-amping a set of Rti-12s I used to have with good results. I say try it and see for yourself.
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited June 2012
    The only way to really know is to try. If you were bi-amping off the Pioneer I would say don't waste your time but off of a separate amp you should here some sonic differences.
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,474
    edited June 2012
    I tried bi-amping my A9's for a while and went back to a single amp and homemade jumpers.

    Like Dawg and Joe recommended, give it a try and let your ears decide.
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    edited June 2012
    I bi-amped my 12s weirdly and it DID make a difference. I ran the tops off my AVR (110 wpc) and ran the bottoms off an amp (150 wpc) low end really came out better. Then when I got a 220 wpc amp, I wired it back traditionally and it sounded even better. Guess what I am saying is that if you have enough juice, you don't really need to bi-amp them for them to reach their potential.
  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,321
    edited June 2012
    Are you using the stock jumpers? Are you using bi wire? How are they currently connected? WHen i took the stock jumpers out and put dh labs jumbers in to match the dh labs cables I am using, it made one heck of a differece. I havent tried bi amping mine. Maybe before I sell one of the sunfires and i have some extra time, i will try it on mine.
    Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
  • ravaneli
    ravaneli Posts: 530
    edited June 2012
    newegg had send me a 40% off coupon for the A1s a few times. Look out for a great deal and grab then, and then tell the wife u bought them on craigslist used and everyone is happy.

    While I agree that RTi A is kinda bright, these speakers have great detail and are really nice for HT, which is what you will be using them for. It just gives some extra spark in the movies.
    BlueFox wrote: »
    I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs. :wink:
    But as in all things your perception is your reality.
  • mufsoman
    mufsoman Posts: 632
    edited June 2012
    The 12's are bi-wired to avoid using the brass jumpers. My homemade biwire speakers cables (monoprice 12 ga) have separate nanner and spade terminations at the amp end (essentially 2 cables bundled) so the bi-amping trial will be easy enough, other than needing to buy the Y connectors. Hopefully I'll get to it this weekend. I'll update with my findings.
    Parasound HCA-2003A & 2205A
    Front: Rti12's
    Center: Csi A6
    Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
    Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
    APC H15
    Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
    The rest is TBD.
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,474
    edited June 2012
    ravaneli wrote: »
    newegg had send me a 40% off coupon for the A1s a few times. Look out for a great deal and grab then, and then tell the wife u bought them on craigslist used and everyone is happy.

    While I agree that RTi A is kinda bright, these speakers have great detail and are really nice for HT, which is what you will be using them for. It just gives some extra spark in the movies.

    Do you have any idea what thread you're posting in? Did you know that this thread has nothing to do with A1's? Did you also know that this thread has nothing to do with RTiA's at all?

    This thread is about a member asking about bi-amping RTi12's.
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • mufsoman
    mufsoman Posts: 632
    edited June 2012
    Getting back to the original topic.....does it matter which end the Y adapter gets put on? Should I place the Y at the AVR outs and use two IC's to the amp OR use one IC from the AVR with the Y just before the amp? My engineering brain says it shouldn't matter where the signal gets split. Am I missing something??? It makes a big difference as to what Y adapters I buy, male - female or female - male.
    Parasound HCA-2003A & 2205A
    Front: Rti12's
    Center: Csi A6
    Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
    Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
    APC H15
    Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
    The rest is TBD.
  • nhhiep
    nhhiep Posts: 877
    edited June 2012
    Same thing, but option 2 uses 1 less IC. I did just that before. But if you can bridge the amp, it probably yield better result.
  • mufsoman
    mufsoman Posts: 632
    edited June 2012
    I ran the test over the weekend. I purchased two AudioQuest Y adapters from BB and bi-amped the Rti12's with the Rotel. The Y adapters went on the amp end of the IC's. There definately was a difference in the sound. More detail is the best I can explain it. Not a slap in yo face difference, but definately an incremental change for the good. So I think I'm keeping it this way. I've ordered some Morrow Audio IC's to eliminate my old no name cables and will drive the surrounds with the SC07.

    Also played with some accoustic panels (6# mineral wool, 2" thk) and 7.1 (vs. 5.1 in old set up). We watched Act of Valor last night and the sound really rocked. Now I have more projects: 1) finishing the DIY build of the accoustic panels and 2) repositioning the surround and back speakers to optimize for 7.1. Always tweaking.....
    Parasound HCA-2003A & 2205A
    Front: Rti12's
    Center: Csi A6
    Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
    Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
    APC H15
    Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
    The rest is TBD.
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited June 2012
    nhhiep wrote: »
    Same thing, but option 2 uses 1 less IC. I did just that before. But if you can bridge the amp, it probably yield better result.

    This is probably the worst way to get better audio out of your amp. Bridging the amp will make it louder but not cleaner.
    If a defined difference is what you are after, than I would stick with the OP's plan.

    Bridging the amp will add a fair amount of distortion to the signal.
  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited June 2012
    I have the same amp and bi-amping yielded minimal results. That amp is a beast, however. I use it as a boat anchor these days since I have no where else to store it :)
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • nhhiep
    nhhiep Posts: 877
    edited June 2012
    Joe08867 wrote: »
    This is probably the worst way to get better audio out of your amp. Bridging the amp will make it louder but not cleaner.
    If a defined difference is what you are after, than I would stick with the OP's plan.

    Bridging the amp will add a fair amount of distortion to the signal.

    I agree with you, at least in theory. But in real world, at least with my system (maybe depend on the amp design), I can't hear any distortion. but I can clearly hear better bass because of more power and current in bridge mode.
  • Inspector 24
    Inspector 24 Posts: 1,308
    edited June 2012
    I posed this question about my A9's. The response that made the most sense to me convinced me NOT to bother with Bi-Amping:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?129691-RTiA9-Bi-Amping&p=1733613&viewfull=1#post1733613
    The woofers are the power hogs. The midrange and tweeter will not use near the power the 4 woofers will.

    Say the top (two mids, and 1 tweeter) section only takes 50 watts to maintain a given volume. You have 85 watts of unused power. The 4 woofers would only have 135w on hand. The 85w that isnt being used is not avalable for the woffers because they are operating on their own circuit.

    So you end up with a volume imbalance between the mid/high and lows. Didn't sound appealing so I never did it.

    Instead I nabbed a Parasound HCA-2003, rated for a conservative 200wpc...likely more like 220wpc. The A9's opened up like I couldn't believe. Bass was punchy and deep, and everything was very open and clear beyond comfortable listening volumes.
    Up
    LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000

    Down
    LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
    Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
    Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500

  • mufsoman
    mufsoman Posts: 632
    edited June 2012
    Inspector24 - If I understand this correctly, then bridging at 270w is better than bi-amping at 135w (just from a watt comparison standpoint) because the 270w gets distributed at a higher wattage to the power hungary bass circuit vs. bi-amped. I get that. However, when comparing bi-amping vs. standard wiring (which is what I'm looking at), the bi-amping should still be an improvement with regards to the wattage applied to the bass for the same reason. In bi-amping, the bass will get a full 200wpc (in my set up) without sharing the wattage with the mid/highs as in a standard set up.

    If I were to purchase a new amp in the future to improve the wattage levels per channel and consider going back to bi-wiring or jumpers, it would need to have enough wpc such that the split between the two circuits would net more watts in the bass than 200w I'm currently supplying the bass with in the bi-amped set up. Correct?

    I think my brain is starting to hurt.......
    Parasound HCA-2003A & 2205A
    Front: Rti12's
    Center: Csi A6
    Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
    Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
    APC H15
    Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
    The rest is TBD.