All the Polk SDA upgrades located in one place!
Comments
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Point to point is the only way to go, imo
I don't know if it'll fit in my speakers lol. I probably could do P2P and just glue them to some non-resonant, light material but I'd rather the convenience and compactness of a board.
I could also always put an external crossover on them which would go hard as heck but that's way out of my realm of knowledge. -
thank you for your responses! I've been researching how to restore these speakers to their former glory. I think I'm just new at navigating forums.
So far it feels like my first step, after tracking down my wiring problem as F1nut said, should be recapping. Preferably with sonicaps for the tweeters, but not a huge downgrade if I use Dayton audio caps for now. Replacing resistors is good but not as important as the caps, and if possible they should be replaced with Mills.
I have a question about replacing caps. If I can't find the right capacitance when putting two caps in parallel, should I aim for the capacitance of each to closely match, but maybe over or undershoot it? Or is it better to match the capacitance, even if the caps are very different values? An example for the capacitor right before the positive terminal of T1 with available Dayton caps from PE would be: 1.80uf + 4.00uf = 5.80uf /or/ 2.70uf + 3.00uf = 5.70uf. Which one is better? I read a few times that it is better that they closely match each other but I'm not sure how authoritative that is.
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I read a few times that it is better that they closely match each other but I'm not sure how authoritative that is.
Yes, or the smaller cap can act like a bypass cap. In other words you do not want a 17uf and 3uf to get to 20uf. The closer to equal halves the better.
Sonicap has all the correct values. Do not short change the value of a resistor, they can definitely impart a sound signature to the final product. -
so even if I'm missing the capacitance mark by 0.1uf it's better than having caps that are not as close in value?
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If so, is it better to undershoot or overshoot? I don't have the money to do the recap with Sonicaps, so I would like to do it with Daytons for now, are do it again with the good stuff later when I have some more funds
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Spending twice is fruitless, spend once cry once. By the time you buy twice and pay shipping twice you've spent about the same as spending once for the good stuff. I saved money for two years to do it once. I've never been disappointed, not once!so even if I'm missing the capacitance mark by 0.1uf it's better than having caps that are not as close in value?
I'm not understanding this ^
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As long as you are within 5% you should be fine but usually you can be pretty close within 1 or 2.
Many smaller caps in parallel are better than a single large cap anyways- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
so even if I'm missing the capacitance mark by 0.1uf it's better than having caps that are not as close in value?
I had to reach 13.5uF for my tweeter cap on my M5Jr+ crossover. I could only find two 6.8uFs and run them in parallel, so I did. My tweeter cap is 13.6uF in practice.
So long as both caps are identical and you run them in parallel, missing the mark by 0.1uF won't be that big of a deal. Obviously getting the exact value needed is best, but being ever so slightly off is the next best thing. -
Better caps have a 1-3% variable even if the cap says exactly what you need.
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I would love to just get the best stuff once, and I would usually agree with you pitdogg2 but in this case, my whole cart for Dayton resistors and caps adds up to $100.72 with free shipping. Just two 5.8uf Sonicaps add up to $98.18.
I ended up going with that Dayton 5.6uf for the 5.8uf spot on the XO because it's closer than I could get with two caps of equal value. Thank you for your help, everyone! -
I would love to just get the best stuff once, and I would usually agree with you pitdogg2 but in this case, my whole cart for Dayton resistors and caps adds up to $100.72 with free shipping. Just two 5.8uf Sonicaps add up to $98.18.
I ended up going with that Dayton 5.6uf for the 5.8uf spot on the XO because it's closer than I could get with two caps of equal value. Thank you for your help, everyone!
FYI, the Dayton and the Bennic XPP are the same caps. With that in mind...Sound: The Bennic XPP has a slightly more open top-end than the Bennic FPP. The FPP is extremely neutral making the XPP sound a tad "toppy" but still overall reasonably neutral. Personally I prefer the FPP to the XPP for souding less "cheap". Although the XPP seems more detailed than most standard quality MKP's it lacks coherency and overview making complex programme material, such as large big band music, choirs or symphony orchestra's sound confused and muddled. The Bennic FPP performs better in this respect. The XPP give me a headache after a while of having to listen to them. Even a cheap Solen PB-MKP-FC is more pleasent to listen to, the Solen is more spatious and more neutral. Switch from the Bennix XPP to a Clarity Cap CSA and everything falls back into place in regards to the neutrality and coherency of the musical image. Compare an XPP to the Wima MKP-10 and the Wima is more neutral, maybe not as detailed as the XPP, but definitely more coherent. The Bennic XPP is one to skip if possible.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
This page is now available here -
https://www.vr3mods.net/polk-sda-updates-information
Let me know if you guys want me to add anything to the list I am missing- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
It will take me a while but I am uploading all publicly available schematics here as means of dooms day prep -
https://www.vr3mods.net/polk-schematics-info- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
