modding a pair of SDA2's

ShadesPG

so ive been playing around with the idea of making my first attempt at modding speakers. I have a pair of SDA2's and i think with a little work, the can sound a whole bunch better. while this is just the preliminary planning stage and i probably wont begin this project until summertime, ild like to start getting all of my ducks in a row. I would hate to attempt this and end up ruining the speakers so im going to do a whole lot of research and contemplation before this occurs. Now i figured that if im going to do this and take apart the pieces of each speaker; i might as well do several things to the speaker at one time rather than doing a little, putting back together only to find i want to do more...so..im starting a list of things ild like to do. (and calculating costs)

ild like to swap out the sl2000 tweeters for RDO-194's. (4 total, direct from polk at $50 a piece)
one of the mids is not original and ild like to find an original to replace it.
dynamatt the radiators
sonicaps
improve the binding posts to accept larger gauge wire
if such a thing is still available, i hear those "Larry's Rings" are a great idea.

if there are some other "cost effective" mods im not thinking of please tell me

please feel free to give me any advice i might need to help me through this journey as im going into it a true rookie.

thanks in advance and i promise to keep a detailed photo journal of the project

heiney9

Since you have early SDA2's you have dimensional tweeters. Some people disconnect the dimensional tweeter and like it better. Later SDA's did away with the dimensional tweeters. Just something to consider before you buy all 4 new tweets. Perhaps experiment by disconnecting each dimensional tweeter for awhile and see if you like the sound. You can save some money then.

Just a thought.

H9

gimpod

H9 makes a good point, one you might want to try before spending any money. The driver you say you need should be a MW 6501 keep an eye out in the "For Sale" section they come up from time to time (4 just sold yesterday or this morning) you also might want to put up a request in the "Wanted to Buy" section. Dynamatt is a good idea do the baskets on the drivers to BTW you want to use "Dynamatt Extreme" there is a difference between the two. Another thing JB Weld the magnets on the drivers, it's not required and wont improve the sound but it will help keep the magnets from shifting if you have to move them and it's cheap & easy to do. Here's a link to an old thread that might help the guy used Solen's instead of Sonicaps but I would stick with the Sonicaps and 12 watt Mills resistors. Also when you get to doing this make SURE to label everything when you take them apart. Also I wouldn't order the caps & resistors until after you get the crossovers out and can see what values everything is.

1st generation SDA crossover upgrade

Hope this helps.

ShadesPG

Thanks for the input so far. The jb weld is another idea I've seen as an option and sounds like an easy task. While the option of simply disconnecting the dimentional tweeter for an improved sound is probably a great suggestion, I already have sda1c's and crs's so I guess you could say I'm kind of in love with the SDA sound. Plus (correct please if I'm wrong) but doing the rdo-194's would make them TL's and I'm both curious to hear that and interested in adding that element to my collection.

F1nut

Plus (correct please if I'm wrong) but doing the rdo-194's would make them TL's

Changing the tweeters to RD0194-1's does not upgrade your speakers to TL's. In fact, you can't upgrade your speakers to TL's.

dynamatt the radiators

It's called Dynamat Extreme and do all the drivers too.

improve the binding posts to accept larger gauge wire

Good idea to upgrade the posts, but use bananas, bare wire sucks.

i hear those "Larry's Rings" are a great idea.

No longer available.

if there are some other "cost effective" mods im not thinking of please tell me

Spike your speakers.

F1nut

Smallies wrote: »

pray Elliot took his meds

I've been conversing and dealing with Elliot for years. He's an intelligent man and a helluva nice guy. If you had a problem dealing with him, I've got to believe it's a reflection on you.

headrott

F1nut wrote: »

I've been conversing and dealing with Elliot for years. He's an intelligent man and a helluva nice guy. If you had a problem dealing with him, I've got to believe it's a reflection on you.

Agreed. Maybe I'm missing the joke. But if it is a joke, it's not funny. If it's not a joke, then shame on you. Elliot is very helpful and certainly knows what he's doing.

Edit: Actually, I just read your signature smallies. I now know that you should feel ashamed of yourself. What possible reason could you have to be an "Elliot hater"?

Greg

Joe08867

Like H9 said, many disconnect the dimensional tweeter. I have the same speakers and will say they sound much better with the dimensional tweeter disconnected.

Replace the caps and resistors. Sonicaps or Clarity Caps are probably your best choice cost wise. Mills resistors are awesome and pretty cheap.

replace the tweeters with the RD-0194 you will just need 2 after you listen to the without the dimensional tweeter.

If the foam is missing behind the speakers replace it.

Dynamat driver baskets,

ShadesPG

F1nut wrote: »

Good idea to upgrade the posts, but use bananas, bare wire sucks.

while i agree that fussing with bare wire is far more annoying that simply inserting a banana plug but, is there any added audio fidelity as a result?....will it effect the sound at all or just my wallet?

F1nut wrote: »

Spike your speakers.

just to be sure, youre talking about adding spikes to the feet of the speakers so as to minimize the contact surface of the speaker to the floor?...the speakers sit on tile, does that make a difference?

thanks again everyone

F1nut

Bare wire sucks because as it sits there oxidizing away it slowly degrades the sound. Solder that wire to some bananas and call it a day.

Yes, spikes on the bottom. Yes, it makes a difference.

ShadesPG

noob warning: why arent speakers built with spikes to begin with?

bluecomet

Spikes are normally used for carpeted floors. You would scratch a hardwood floor if you had spikes and tried to walk the speakers into another spot in the room. It would also leave marks on the wood floor.

pitdogg2

looking at the link in gimpods post: 1st generation SDA crossover upgrade: In that link they mention that you need to still use the silver mica bypass caps. That is no longer.. most all of us that did an XO upgrade did not use those. Maybe I'm missing something but in my two SDA upgrades I was told they were not necessary because of the use of much better caps made them unnecessary.

Do listen to you speakers both with and without the Dimensional tweeters with lots of music. My SDA1's have them and I actually prefer them in use as opposed to without. only you can decide.

F1nut

ShadesPG wrote: »

noob warning: why arent speakers built with spikes to begin with?

They are.

F1nut

bluecomet wrote: »

Spikes are normally used for carpeted floors. You would scratch a hardwood floor if you had spikes and tried to walk the speakers into another spot in the room. It would also leave marks on the wood floor.

They sell floor discs for use on wood floors.

gimpod

pitdogg2, your correct the silver mica by pass caps are not needed with the new type caps. BTW that thread is seven years old, before Polk recommended not using them with the new better quality caps.

F1nut

Smallies wrote: »

My reflection is fine let's see yours

Look over your shoulder.