Crappily wired house

ibewbrother

Looking at that picture....and thinking a bit....leads me to believe the 30 amp fuses are on each leg of the 220vac output. The big blocks are nothing but disconnects. What I'm seeing says that the side that says "main" feeds another 120vac fuse box. The one that says "range" is what feeds the.......wait for it.......range.

That is true old school wiring. I've done some work with friend's places that had the same set up. New service...put that existing on 2 60 amp breakers in the new panel. Then you have the capability to run new stuff from the new main panel.

Or not...I might should say that I make no claims that my electrical advise is any better than anyone else's.......and should be taken as such...

Brother

SDA1C

I just have to say I laugh every time I read the word "Crappily". Friggin priceless LOL!

Mr. Sharpe

ibewbrother wrote: »

Is that your main? Just behind the meter....I mean?

This is a kitchen cabinet. The meter is outside.

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

^^ I'm sure it is.


When was this house built late 40's?

naw, earlier than that, I think dad says 1920's.

hewlew1 wrote: »

Probably 60 amp fuses in the mains and 40 amp fuses for the range portion. My biggest concern is the 4- 30 amp fuses for the rest of the house as I doubt the house is wired with 10 gauge wire. This area would be the area I address first. Go to the store and replace those 4 fuses with 20 amp fuses 30 is just asking for trouble, as far as a dedicated line for you system forget about it and set your goal on a new service and complete rewire of the home.

It's not that easy. sure, I can tell my dad (home owner) it needs to be rewired but one, he'll think I just want it rewired just because and two, they probably don't have the money for it even if they did they wouldn't do it without again, getting someone from the electrical company to tell them it has to be done. and no, it's all 12 gauge looks like. I took the wire that was for the water pump down yesterday and it was some 12 gauge no ground tied to some 10 gauge with ground in the middle with more 12 gauge coming out of the house.

Mr. Sharpe

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

I should have never given you an idea that you maybe able to fix your trouble, without knowing the whole picture. Honest your 30amp fuse, I'm sure they are not should be 30amp fuses, but more like a 15amp circuit. Those fuses came as 15 / 20 / 25 / 30 amp fuses. Putting a 30amp fuse in a 15amp fuse place doesn't fix the trouble, but may start your house on fire. The wire will get too hot, and start a fire.

Sorry yes I serious.

the 30 amp fuses have always been there, haven't put in anything since moving in.

SDA1C wrote: »

I just have to say I laugh every time I read the word "Crappily". Friggin priceless LOL!

Lol Crappily is an awesome word!!! dont be hatin;)

hewlew1

it's all 12 gauge looks like. 12 gauge wire is rated at 20 amps just because the 30 amp fuses were in there when you moved in does not make it safe. The least I would do is replace all four of them with 20 amp fuses instead . Pull the main disconnect and see if indeed there are fuses in it or is it simply a connection that feeds out to the extra circuit panel you speak of.

SDA1C

Mr. Sharpe wrote: »

Lol Crappily is an awesome word!!! dont be hatin;)

No hatin here brother. I looked for it again this mornin to start my day with a laugh.

Mr. Sharpe

hewlew1 wrote: »

it's all 12 gauge looks like. 12 gauge wire is rated at 20 amps just because the 30 amp fuses were in there when you moved in does not make it safe. The least I would do is replace all four of them with 20 amp fuses instead . Pull the main disconnect and see if indeed there are fuses in it or is it simply a connection that feeds out to the extra circuit panel you speak of.

I believe all the main thingy does is you pull it out and it's just a connector. I'll do that.

SDA1C wrote: »

No hatin here brother. I looked for it again this mornin to start my day with a laugh.

I'm glad I made you happy:D

gdb

Pull the meter out and with the SEC "dead" install a new Cutler Hammer breaker panel. We won't tell on you !

Mr. Sharpe

Lol what?? then I'll have to rewire everything into new breakers lol! dang!!! I doubt anybody will fall for that one... but ya never know.

gdb

It's really not that difficult. Really.

Mr. Sharpe

Just scary touching those big ol' 220 volt mains is all...

Mr. Sharpe

wait wait, when I take the meter out it'll make it to where I can touch those wires to connect in the box wont it?

zane77

If you pull the meter you will usually have to break the power companies seal and they really don't like that.

gdb

Tough titty, they can't prove who broke the seal plus.....if you're careful, you can make it look like it's never been "molested" ! And Yes, with the meter removed from the socket you could safely lick the bare ends of the SEC without danger (I would just change out the panel instead )

ibewbrother

Call them....the power company I mean. I've pulled a few meters and they usually don't make a big deal if you tell them you're going to do it. What they don't like is flipping meters....although with the new tech...I'm not sure that's even possible now.

gdb

ibewbrother wrote: »

Call them....the power company I mean. I've pulled a few meters and they usually don't make a big deal if you tell them you're going to do it. What they don't like is flipping meters....although with the new tech...I'm not sure that's even possible now.

"Making life enjoyable through expensive electronics." BillD
Very cool of you to quote Bill's mission statement, he was a good guy !

Mr. Sharpe

I know before we had to replace the meter I could just pull it out without a problem. Maybe I'll get lucky this week and be able to look under the house. I have to start mowing tomorrow too:( may turn out to not be on my priority list at all lol

wolfman1138

As the owner of a 1920's house who just paid to have almost all of the knob and tube replaced, I will say that it is worth the cost. We have a two story house with a full basement. It was rewired at least once because we found the old knob and tube box in the kitchen and the more modern breaker box was in the basement. Still, I went from 20 circuits packed in a small box to 45 circuits plus an automated backup generator solution. Same 200amp service, but just fixed and safe. We got the rooms unlinked, added new plugs in some rooms that used to have only a single outlet, proper loading across circuits, added new circuits in the kitchen, etc. I also could run extra dedicated circuits to the basement theater.

We let the electrician cut what ever holes he needed in the basement ceiling to wire the main floor, which wasn't too bad. The upper story we wired through the attic.

The best part was when I called up my insurance agent, we got a significant discount on our insurance due to modern upgraded wiring.

The real issue with knob and tube wiring is the "Western Unions." They are soldered joints in the middle of the runs. Super scary. We ended up not having any (that we could find) but still, when you run the hot and neutral as separate runs, there are a lot of super creative ways to get into trouble.

Best of luck!

Mr. Sharpe

thanks a bunch.

disneyjoe7

wolfman1138 wrote: »

The real issue with knob and tube wiring is the "Western Unions." They are soldered joints in the middle of the runs. Super scary.

I'm thinking those "Western Unions Soldered joints" are one of the installation things which still make a Knob and Tube electric system still working close to a 100 years later.

wolfman1138

The concept behind knob and tube was pretty cool, but the materials are what gives out over time. But those Western Union joints were often just wrapped with tape, so the chance of having exposed wires is much greater. In Oregon, you can't insulate over knob and tube because if the insulation cracks and you get moisture in the insulation it can bridge and cause a fire. Old BX wiring is actually even worse because the two cloth covered wires are inside a metal housing. If the insulation cracks there, then you can short to the neutral or the housing and cause a fire.

With my ceiling out in the basement I can see all the old runs. They ran the neutral and hot on either side of a joist. Three way wiring was also neat because you just have one wire going to each side of each switch and the bulb connects to both switches.

The actual wires originally used in my house were pretty fancy. They had a rubber coating over the wire and then a woven braid over that. Each side was about 1/2 in diameter. The issue is that they were getting brittle due to age. So out with the old and in with the new. I also then was able to insulate the attic and am saving more that 20% on my power bill too.

disneyjoe7

I'm not saying modern electrical system is light years ahead, but knot and tube had it's place and as we all found out is still working in homes today. Which is great, expect when someone in a yesterdays house wish to move forward in time.

Mr. Sharpe

So after messing around I've decided to completely abandon the idea of rewiring the outlets, instead just re routing some of the wires in the box and using an existing breaker and just putting new receptacles in the wall. I just recently found out I could do that with boxes they have for doing just that. And eventually one day if I don't ever re wire the house at least get a nice Meter box and a separate or all-in-one box with all the breakers in one box. I'll keep posted once I ever get around to doing the new receptacles, I never get in the basement either, just figured the wires are more than likely going through the attic so I'm like "whatever". not messin with that one. I'm running all Florescent light-bulbs so with all of them running I'm thinking I'm not tripping any breakers or blowing any fuses wouldn't you agree? I don't ever run the bathroom heaters and don't have anything to speak of hooked to any outlets. I believe just sticking two receptacles in between the existing ones will do fine for now.