LSi Series Home Theater Project
Comments
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Cfrizz have you even heard emo audio ? Maybe this is a bad week for you ?:razz:
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That's incorrect. I take it you've never heard a 5 watt SET amp. ..5 watt amp?...do they make those?..lolo.J/kin.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping_factor
That's incorrect as well. The fact is that the difference between a damping factor of 10 and 1000 is so small that it doesn't matter. -
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Did you actually bother to read the article you linked or do you just not understand what it says?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Maybe this will help you understand, http://www.audioholics.com/education/amplifier-technology/damping-factor-effects-on-system-response
Take note of the following paragraghs.Several things are apparent from this table. First and foremost, any notion of severe overhang or extended "time amplitude envelopes) resulting from low damping factors simple does not exist. We see, at most, a doubling of decay time (this doubling is true no matter what criteria is selected for decay time). The figure we see here of 70 milliseconds is well over an order of magnitude lower than that suggested by one person, and this represents what I think we all agree is an absolute worst-case scenario of a damping factor of 1.
Secondly, the effects of this loss of damping on system frequency response is non-existent in most cases, and minimal in all but the worst case scenario. Using the criteria that 0.1 dB is the smallest audible peak, the data in the table suggests that any damping factor over 10 is going to result in inaudible differences between that and one equal to infinity. It's highly doubtful that a response peak of 1/3 dB is going to be identifiable reliably, thus extending the limit another factor of two lower to a damping factor of 5.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Yes i did and yes i do understand it.As i understand the point you where making.But this goes back a very long way.Much older then i am.Watts do have more too do with the clarity of the sound be it 5 watts or 500 watts.As for the Damping Factor i just threw that in to get things going.It seems as soon as Anyone mentions Emotiva people in here get a hard-on for that brand?.There good amps, are better out there?.Well yeah,Using Krell as an example, 5 gs.If i had my Carvers back i would be saying they are as good as any in there class.Some people like spending 5, 10 g's on gear and more power too them.F1nut, watts alone are not a good measure of sound quality just by itself.But too keep saying Koolaid?.From someone like you who i know i have read so many of your post in here that are as good if not better then the Pro's on their web site.So i am guessing the your statement of Don't drink the Koolaid is a personal one.Makes no difference too me what anyone says about any gear out there.You have help a lot of Audio Enthusist in here because you do know.I for one injoy reading your post.No harm Bro and thanks for the help in here.Peace.:cool:
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PM sent
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Not everyone here is so staunch an opponent to Emotiva. I actually think they do a great job for the money. I think the fact that amps get so hotly discussed here is a bit out of proportion to the gains. For one, switching amps is one of the smallest changes in sound signature (assuming they are both SS) that one can make with components. Second, If someone wants to buy new, there isn't much out there that will sound better, and deliver the same volume capabilities (which in HT is a big deal, and is directly related wattage) as Emotiva.
Not everyones tolerance level within the law of diminishing returns is as high as yours, F1. CF, you know the blanket 200W amp statement is going to spark up that response. You would do well to at least clarify, otherwise it perpetuates the notion that quality is directly related to wattage, which most of us here know is not at all the case. Current and capacitance get you control and wattage gets you volume (very generally speaking).
LSi9's have a max recommended program power handling on 200w. This is with a nominal impedance of 4ohms. Amplifier general wattage qualifiers almost always are in terms of 8ohms, meaning that even with a less efficient amp, it is offering around 300w program.
In addition, with a ~10' x ~15 room, if sealed, is very small, putting the listener very close to the speakers (probably 8' in the front row). With an efficiency of 88db/1w@1m, you're talking over 112db PROGRAM at an 8' listening position assuming wall positioning and 200w produced. Likely more due to room loading with 5 speakers and a sub. The standard for a movie theater is 85db with 20db of headroom. considering it takes a doubling of power to raise a signal 3db, 100w gets you to 3db above reference headroom, or 108db. Just RMS. Now consider the use of a high current, high capacitance amplifier, and stating a person needs 200w doesn't seem to hold any water.design is where science and art break even. -
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I ran across this looking into something unrelated, but I found it timely and thought it would be a good watch for the OP to explain why receivers are often not sufficient (although I am not convinced his receiver would be insufficient in this circumstance), and for your reference cfrizz.
design is where science and art break even. -
As far as sound proofing your room, are you looking to keep sound out of the rest of the house? You make mention of "losing sound through the door or window." I am unclear whether you are concerned of it being niosy in the house or less noisy in the HT room. If it is the latter, this will not happen. As far as keeping noise out of the house, yu can do the window insert as you mentioned, and then treat the door as you are the walls. apply your material to the interior of the door providing clearance for the swing. You can beef up your door trim too meet up with the extra thickness of the door.design is where science and art break even.
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If you guys would like to follow the build:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?132733-Polk-Audio-LSi-Home-Theater-Build
The goal with the sound isolation is to keep the airplane noise out of the room and to keep the sound from disturbing my wife and neighbors. I am ordering a solid core door and plan to trim and face the door with MDF.
I have just begun a new thread at the above link which will follow the construction.
Thanks again to all the forum members who have influenced the project planning. -
Here are the first wave of photos, enjoy. -
Looks really good. I'm sure you'll be happy when it's all finished
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The koolaid drinking is telling someone more watts and higher damping factors matter when in reality it does not. You just can not throw that out there.The Parasound HCA1500A I was trying to sell here awhile back I would put up with any Emotiva and people who have owned Parasound do not have a bad word about it's performance. I thank people on this forum to leading me to Parasound.You can try the Emotiva and see but In my listening experiences I have not been impressed with Emotiva and a buddy of mine who owns Martin Logans like me sold his XPA2 because it kept overheating.He went with a Rotel 1090 and is one happy camper. BTW,Does Emotiva list their current ratings of their amps?
OP, the LSI's are very nice speakers. Good luck with your setup.HT System
Parasound Halo A51 Amp, Marantz AV 8003 Pre, Arcam FMJ CD36 cd player, Marantz 7007 BD/SACD player,Acoustic Zen Matrix IC's, Analysis Plus Crystal Copper Oval IC's, Acoustic Zen Satori speaker cables, B&W 703's Fronts, Center Martin Logan Motif hybrid, Surrounds DefTech BPX, 2 X DefTech Supercube Reference Subs, DSpeaker Antimode 8033 EQ. -