Did I get scammed on this PSW125?
Hi guys,
First I'd like to say hi to everyone. My girlfriend and I just bought our first house and I've decided to slowly piece together a home theatre for movies/music.
The first piece I purchased (aside from the Vizio soundbar I bought at [and plan on returning to] Costco) is a second hand PSW125 subwoofer. The price was right and I couldn't pass it up.
After taking a second look at it at home, I'm now thinking it's been tampered with in the past. I don't know what, if anything has been altered, and that's what I'm hoping you guys can help me figure out.
It sounds great to me (I'm very new at the home audio game), but I want to make sure I got what I paid for.
The PSW125 in all its glory
Looking at pictures of other PSW125's, this panel is different...
Additional holes from screws
Yellow electrical tape that is coming loose. The negative terminal is also quite loose.
Multiple types of screws used
This is a good sign though, right?
If anyone can shed some light or just throw some theories out there it would be greatly appreciated!
P.S. - I plan on keeping with the Polk theme and get some RTi floor standing speakers down the road :-D
First I'd like to say hi to everyone. My girlfriend and I just bought our first house and I've decided to slowly piece together a home theatre for movies/music.
The first piece I purchased (aside from the Vizio soundbar I bought at [and plan on returning to] Costco) is a second hand PSW125 subwoofer. The price was right and I couldn't pass it up.
After taking a second look at it at home, I'm now thinking it's been tampered with in the past. I don't know what, if anything has been altered, and that's what I'm hoping you guys can help me figure out.
It sounds great to me (I'm very new at the home audio game), but I want to make sure I got what I paid for.
The PSW125 in all its glory
Looking at pictures of other PSW125's, this panel is different...
Additional holes from screws
Yellow electrical tape that is coming loose. The negative terminal is also quite loose.
Multiple types of screws used
This is a good sign though, right?
If anyone can shed some light or just throw some theories out there it would be greatly appreciated!
P.S. - I plan on keeping with the Polk theme and get some RTi floor standing speakers down the road :-D
Post edited by Wiltzor on
Comments
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I assume this was bought used...
It look in rough shape, but if it sounds good I wouldn't worry too much. The parts look correct as far as I can tell (vice being counterfit). It just looks like someone had taken it apart before, perhaps to mod it. -
Your house looks nice too.
Some RTi A7s will just snap on that wood floor I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs.
jeremymarcinko wrote: »But as in all things your perception is your reality. -
Looks fairly obvious that the amp plate has been replaced with a non-Polk product. If it was Polk, it would say Polk Audio where it now instead says "Powered Subwoofer." The little barcode on it suggests that it was indeed made to fit a PSW125, but it is not original.
After a brief Google image search, it looks like there were two different amp plates made for the PSW125, each with different mounting hole patterns. Looks like your replacement amp plate used a different mounting hole pattern than the original.
Here are the two styles of plates:
This is what your sub would have originally had.
And this is what your replacement amp was meant to replace.
http://www.google.com/imgres?start=96&um=1&hl=en&safe=off&client=opera&rls=en&tbm=isch&tbnid=xoY1F_DE_j78aM:&imgrefurl=http://www.kaskus.us/showthread.php%3Ft%3D7922067&docid=o9bX2xi1rVnA4M&imgurl=http://cdn-u.kaskus.us/38/pd1mstiw.jpg&w=600&h=450&ei=r95TT93VNNSztwezw-3SDQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=978&vpy=295&dur=1593&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=134&ty=116&sig=102431480100189250897&page=5&tbnh=162&tbnw=230&ndsp=26&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:96&biw=1280&bih=904
Now the only pic I could find of an amp plate with the different mounting pattern was from an Indonesian forum. It may be that the so-called Polk PSW125 in the Indonesian forum is a counterfeit, and that the amp plate you have was intended for the counterfeit. That is just speculation, however. I can find no confirmation from Polk that they made two versions of the PSW125 with different mounting hole patterns. Maybe someone from Polk can help.
RT-12, CS350-LS, PSW-300, Infinity Overture 1, Monoprice RC-65i
Adcom GFA-545II, GFA-6000, Outlaw Audio 990, Netgear NeoTV
Denon DCM-460, DMD-1000, Sony BDP-360, Bravia KDL-40Z4100/S
Monster AVL-300, HTS-2500 MKII -
You could be on to something. The psw111 back plate looks exactly like his except it says PolkAudio above powered subwoofer. Otherwise all the plugs and dials are in the same location as his picture.
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you see the kind of detailed help you can get from many members here, you just cant beat this place.humpty dumpty was pushed
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Hi guys,
First I'd like to say hi to everyone. My girlfriend and I just bought our first house and I've decided to slowly piece together a home theatre for movies/music.
The first piece I purchased (aside from the Vizio soundbar I bought at [and plan on returning to] Costco) is a second hand PSW125 subwoofer. The price was right and I couldn't pass it up.
After taking a second look at it at home, I'm now thinking it's been tampered with in the past. I don't know what, if anything has been altered, and that's what I'm hoping you guys can help me figure out.
It sounds great to me (I'm very new at the home audio game), but I want to make sure I got what I paid for.
The PSW125 in all its glory
Looking at pictures of other PSW125's, this panel is different...
Additional holes from screws
Yellow electrical tape that is coming loose. The negative terminal is also quite loose.
Multiple types of screws used
This is a good sign though, right?
If anyone can shed some light or just throw some theories out there it would be greatly appreciated!
P.S. - I plan on keeping with the Polk theme and get some RTi floor standing speakers down the road :-D
I'd look at it like this: Would you have bought it if the seller had been upfront and honest about replacing the plate amp?Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden -
You could be on to something. The psw111 back plate looks exactly like his except it says PolkAudio above powered subwoofer. Otherwise all the plugs and dials are in the same location as his picture.
Was not aware of that, but after another Google search, you are right. Here is the PSW111 amp plate:
So it may not only possibly be counterfeit (since it doesn't say Polk Audio on it), it may also be a PSW111 counterfeit, which would mean it is a 150W amp instead of the 300W amp that the PSW125 is supposed to have. Even if it is a genuine Polk amp plate that Polk for some reason didn't print their logo on, it's still pretty clear that it's a PSW111 plate. Perhaps that Indonesian PSW125 I found also had a PSW111 plate on it.
The PSW111 amp plate may work fine for moderate listening, but if they sold you a PSW125 and didn't tell you that it had a PSW111 amp plate with 150 watts less than it was supposed to have, then I would be a bit upset. But then they could always claim that they bought it that way from someone else and had no idea.
RT-12, CS350-LS, PSW-300, Infinity Overture 1, Monoprice RC-65i
Adcom GFA-545II, GFA-6000, Outlaw Audio 990, Netgear NeoTV
Denon DCM-460, DMD-1000, Sony BDP-360, Bravia KDL-40Z4100/S
Monster AVL-300, HTS-2500 MKII -
Possibly a service replacement part.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
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My guess is that plate may be polk's generic/replacement plate for 220v/int'l product.
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Hold the phone, I've found several more PSW125 photos with what appears to be a PSW111 plate, even an unboxing video of a PSW125 with the PSW111 plate.
http://youtu.be/4pdpYl3903o
Not sure what to think now.
RT-12, CS350-LS, PSW-300, Infinity Overture 1, Monoprice RC-65i
Adcom GFA-545II, GFA-6000, Outlaw Audio 990, Netgear NeoTV
Denon DCM-460, DMD-1000, Sony BDP-360, Bravia KDL-40Z4100/S
Monster AVL-300, HTS-2500 MKII -
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Wow, amazing response. Thanks to everyone for all the help!
If you look at the last photo you can see a sticker on the amp that says PSW125.
I picked it off Kijiji, Canada's version of Craigslist. Paid cash, so there likely won't be any recourse.
I'm happy with it, but I'd be a bit ticked off if I learned that the amp is only producing half the power... -
Welcome to Club Polk!
I'm pretty sure that the output, power wise, for the PSW 111 and the PSW 125 is exactly the same.
150 watts continuous and 300 peak. So it might well be possible to sub one plate amp for the other if the woofer impedances were the same?
Check the info on Polk product page!
Close inspection of the two photos reveal that both amps draw 1.6 amps--the same amount of current!
Perhaps some Polk reps can 'confirm' this?
http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/psw/specs.php
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
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Yeah I was reading and comparing the specs from the 110, not the 111. My bad! Does look like they have the same rating. May very well be the same amp plate.
RT-12, CS350-LS, PSW-300, Infinity Overture 1, Monoprice RC-65i
Adcom GFA-545II, GFA-6000, Outlaw Audio 990, Netgear NeoTV
Denon DCM-460, DMD-1000, Sony BDP-360, Bravia KDL-40Z4100/S
Monster AVL-300, HTS-2500 MKII -
That's great to hear. I will rest at ease!
I have to admit, it does sound really good.. and it digs deep!
Now I just need my A7's and a decent receiver to fill out the rest of the range!
Thanks again everyone!! -
I have two PSW 125s and while not the best they fit with my RTi setup (A7s and C6 and four A1s) nicely!
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[QUOTE=Wiltzor;[1736631]...PSW125 subwoofer. Yellow electrical tape that is coming loose. The negative terminal is also quite loose...
[/quote]
Get friendly w/a soldering iron (not a soldering gun*) or someone who is. Those taped connections hafta go.
At the risk of igniting debate & derailing this thread (no heat seeking missles please) IF this were mine or I was doing the the work I'd upgrade the wire to the driver*. If you don't have short piece of 12 ga or better, go to your local auto sound place.
* here you might need the gun's heat
RTi or RTi A? They ARE different; the "A" series offers subtle & not-so-subtle improvements over the RTi series.P.S. - I plan on keeping with the Polk theme and get some
RTi floor standing speakers down the road :-D
Shalom, tonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)
LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
*all connected w/Premiere ICs
5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Sorry, I did mean RTi A - I've had the A7's in my sights for a little while now, just waiting for futureshop to put them on sale or if I see a nice second hand set for sale (I'll be more careful when buying this time!).
As for the wires, I like to think I'm handy with a soldering iron. I'll replace those wires
One more thing, and I'm a bit embarrassed to ask because it's going to show off my newb status. I've been having no luck figuring out how to get the audio from my computer to my tv, so right now I have my laptop headphone jack sending audio to the soundbar via 1/4" to rca wire. From the soundbar I have the subwoofer connected via LFE. Is the fact that the soundbar is getting its signal from the computer's headphone jack going to kill sound quality?
If anyone can help me figure out how to get the audio from my HP Pavilion DV9000 to my Samsung plasma via HDMI I will be most thankful! -
Do you want us to pay the guy a visit and have Vinnie break his thumbs?Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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Sorry, I did mean RTi A - I've had the A7's in my sights for a little while now, just waiting for futureshop to put them on sale or if I see a nice second hand set for sale (I'll be more careful when buying this time!).
As for the wires, I like to think I'm handy with a soldering iron. I'll replace those wires
One more thing, and I'm a bit embarrassed to ask because it's going to show off my newb status. I've been having no luck figuring out how to get the audio from my computer to my tv, so right now I have my laptop headphone jack sending audio to the soundbar via 1/4" to rca wire. From the soundbar I have the subwoofer connected via LFE. Is the fact that the soundbar is getting its signal from the computer's headphone jack going to kill sound quality?
If anyone can help me figure out how to get the audio from my HP Pavilion DV9000 to my Samsung plasma via HDMI I will be most thankful!
Does your HP model have an HDMI out. Some newer models do! If so all you need is the right cable and a perusal of the audio menus your laptop has for "output".
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
My comp does have an HDMI out, and I'm currently using my Plasma as my computer screen, conntected via HDMI, but for some reason I can't get the audio to follow suit. I've tried everything!Do you want us to pay the guy a visit and have Vinnie break his thumbs?
I'm listening...
