Power to RTiA7 speakers

divulger00
divulger00 Posts: 2
edited February 2012 in Speakers
Hi there, I recently purchased a pair of RTiA7's on somewhat of a whim as they were on sale at future shop. Little did I know the havoc that would follow. Sorry if this has been previously discussed, I'm hoping to get a few questions answered a long the way, so here goes. I currently have a Sony STRDN1000 receiver, 110 watts per channel which isn't very close to the power output from the RTiA7s, I was cautioned of "clipping" as a potential problem. So I did some research and looked at bi-amping through the Sony receiver, the information I got was that it was basically a gimmick and wouldn't really provide any extra power (http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?76900-Bi-Amp-RTi-A7-s). As my receiver doesn't have pre-outs I began searching for a new one, the Onkyo 709 looked like a good buy, and has the pre-outs I would need to add an external amp. As I don't know much about amps this is where I started to get a bit lost, I was hoping someone could recommend one for these speakers or if there are any other suggestions for routes I could go before spending a ton of extra money.
Thanks a lot for any help you can provide!
Post edited by divulger00 on

Comments

  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,011
    edited February 2012
    Your receiver is fine to drive the A7's. Would they sound better with an amp ? Sure, but not really necessary. Your receiver will clip only if you ask too much of it, like trying to blow out the windows with concert level volumes. If your running 5 or 7 channel surround sound, then yes, the receiver will put out less watts per channel but you should still be OK providing you don't turn it up so the neighbors can hear.
    HT SYSTEM-
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  • divulger00
    divulger00 Posts: 2
    edited February 2012
    Thanks for your reply Tonyb. I've heard these speakers can "really sing" so I would like to give them every opportunity to... especially after spending a pretty penny on them along with a new rega turntable. I'll certainly consider spending 2K on a new receiver and amp if it's going to make a noticeable difference. The Onkyo 709 is running around $700 in Canada, as for amps I did a bit more digging and saw the Anthem MCA 20 and the Parasound 2250 promoted as good amps to power the RTiA7s, though I'm not too sure on their costs... I'm assuming I could just power the RTiA7 with the amp and then have the receiver power the centre and rears...? I'll plead newbie just this once I promise. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • chumlie
    chumlie Posts: 8,658
    edited February 2012
    Can't say about the Anthem. But i do know the Parasound will make them happy. I'm running a hca1500a with my a7's. It does a great job of driving the 7's. You will hear the differance. If money is an issue ( and it always is ) i would look into used gear. Alot of good buys out there.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited February 2012
    If they're new allow 100+ hours break-in. They'll soften over time &, while some what amp dependent, the bass will "come out to play"
    tonyb wrote: »
    Your receiver is fine to drive the A7's. Would they sound better with an amp ? Sure, but not really necessary.
    +1. Power (watts) isn't the bottom here. My high-current, warm-sounding 80 watt Belles will lift my 'A7s off the ground!
    tonyb wrote: »
    Your receiver will clip only if you ask too much of it, like trying to blow out the windows with concert level volumes. If your running 5 or 7 channel surround sound, then yes, the receiver will put out less watts per channel but you should still be OK providing you don't turn it up so the neighbors can hear.
    +1.

    cheers tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • PrazVT
    PrazVT Posts: 1,606
    edited February 2012
    I ran my RTi A7s with both the Parasound 2250 (45 amps) and the Parasound Halo A21 (60 amps). The biggest improvement was heard going from a receiver to the Parasound 2250 - tames a little of the brightness and wakes up those woofers!!

    And of course there is a 5ch version of that amp (5250). Do you plan to add the matching center and surrounds eventually? you may want to think about what the end state is going to be ..so you do everything right the first time.

    Otherwise, congrats on the purchase :)
    ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place :(

    Home Theater:
    KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch

    2 Channel:
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  • lanchile
    lanchile Posts: 560
    edited February 2012
    divulger00 wrote: »
    Thanks for your reply Tonyb. I've heard these speakers can "really sing" so I would like to give them every opportunity to... especially after spending a pretty penny on them along with a new rega turntable. I'll certainly consider spending 2K on a new receiver and amp if it's going to make a noticeable difference. The Onkyo 709 is running around $700 in Canada, as for amps I did a bit more digging and saw the Anthem MCA 20 and the Parasound 2250 promoted as good amps to power the RTiA7s, though I'm not too sure on their costs... I'm assuming I could just power the RTiA7 with the amp and then have the receiver power the centre and rears...? I'll plead newbie just this once I promise. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    The RTi series are really good speakers!!! I have the baby RTi-A1 bookshelf and I love them. if you listen to music most the time, I would not buy a receiver, instead I would go for two channels separated gears (amp and pre-amp). There are a lot of good amps out there. you can get really good used Bryston amps. also there are very good integrated amps too. 100 watts RMS per channel will be more than enough for your speakers.
    Make it simple...Make it better!
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,477
    edited February 2012
    PrazVT wrote: »
    Do you plan to add the matching center and surrounds eventually? you may want to think about what the end state is going to be ..so you do everything right the first time.

    Otherwise, congrats on the purchase :)

    Good point here! What's the rest of your system look like? Are you planning to run just a 2ch or a full H.T. set up.

    The CSiA6 compliments the A7's nicely. @ 200w capable, you might want to consider amping the center along with the fronts.

    Some guys use just a pre-pro and amp all their speakers, some use their AVR as a pre-pro and amp all their speakers, some guys amp certain speakers and let the AVR power the rest, etc etc.

    What are your goals?

    Oh btw, welcome to the forum, if you have anytrouble spending your hard earned money, this is the place to find help to spend it :smile:
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • photocrazy
    photocrazy Posts: 89
    edited February 2012
    PrazVT wrote: »
    wakes up those woofers!!

    does that mean, the bass gets tighter ? coz I am curious about adding an amp to my A9s.
  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited February 2012
    photocrazy wrote: »
    does that mean, the bass gets tighter ? coz I am curious about adding an amp to my A9s.

    You wont regret it.
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,477
    edited February 2012
    photocrazy wrote: »
    does that mean, the bass gets tighter ? coz I am curious about adding an amp to my A9s.

    Did you not catch my thread concerning bass output in the A9?

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?129719-RTiA9-back-fire-are-they-too-good

    These are amped.
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited February 2012
    PrazVT wrote: »
    ... and wakes up those woofers!!
    photocrazy wrote: »
    does that mean, the bass gets tighter?
    Well if your AVR's amp section has a "sloppy bottom" then "bigger/better" will tighten up the bass. Usually "bigger/better" will "wake up" most any speakers in several ways. As I mentioned above, my high-current, warm-sounding 80 watt Belles makes the bass "come out to play" & lifts them off the ground. As you may read in my sig, I prefer the Haf XL-280's upper mid response for mid/treble, leaving bottom duties for the Belles.

    No heat seeking missiles for what follows, please. I forgot to mention...(here where I "slap the hornet's nest.") Make a 4 ohm specification part of your upgrade criteria. A little known ('A7) fact Polk left off the web site: below the sub's XO frequency (125Hz) nominal impedance* drops to 4 ohms*. You read that right, now read why. NO HP filtering to the Mid - the mid & subs are in parallel* below 125hz.
    *jbooker, VR3 (Trey), & 1-2 others know all this first hand

    Passive* bi-amping* gets around the problem w/no discernable SQ improvement* w/needless added complexity. Listen to what the others suggest. Do it right w/a good amp, you won't regret it. BTW: no shame w/good, used electronics - all mine is!
    * Active bi-amping on the other hand... ...well that's for another post

    Do you ebay? Shop @ Polkdirect and $ave 30-40%! I did! Buy the matching CSiA6. I have more to add why, but friends just arrived (early).

    enjoy them. cheers tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,477
    edited February 2012
    Just out of curiousity my brother, why do you cheers Tony at the end of your posts?
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,011
    edited February 2012
    Geoff4rfc wrote: »
    Just out of curiousity my brother, why do you cheers Tony at the end of your posts?

    Maybe because...and call me crazy for this....his name is "Tony".:cheesygrin:
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited February 2012
    Geoff4rfc wrote: »
    Just out of curiousity my brother, why do you cheers Tony at the end of your posts?
    Can't recall where I picked that up. How about "Shalom" instead? (Peace)
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,477
    edited February 2012
    tonyb wrote: »
    Maybe because...and call me crazy for this....his name is "Tony".:cheesygrin:

    Aug gug gug gug GUG!!! That is too funny, all this time I thought he was saying hey to YOU! Now if that don't tear the rag off the bush?!
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • photocrazy
    photocrazy Posts: 89
    edited February 2012
    gp4jesus wrote: »

    A little known ('A7) fact Polk left off the web site: below the sub's XO frequency (125Hz) nominal impedance* drops to 4 ohms*. You read that right, now read why. NO HP filtering to the Mid - the mid & subs are in parallel* below 125hz.

    Is it the same for A9s as well?
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited February 2012
    I don't know. Trey (Vr3) might know if he's modded a pair. I know about the 'A7s because I've done some mods; looking forward to finishing. I do know, unlike the '7s*, the '9s have a separate* MW chamber*.
    * another mod on my list
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • ravaneli
    ravaneli Posts: 530
    edited February 2012
    My A7s are driven by a Pioneer 521 AVR. 80W for the front channels in the full range (110W at 1khz)

    Without a subwoofer but with the bass on +3 these towers can HIT! Absolutely superior bass than the DSW 660. Super crisp hits, much shorter than the 660. The 660 being that big has a pretty slow recovery in my opinion which is the whole reason for the poor music performance.
    BlueFox wrote: »
    I have found that tube based computers provide the best sound quality. ENIAC and MANIAC I offer a smooth, well defined and articulated sound unmatched by the current silicon based CPUs. :wink:
    But as in all things your perception is your reality.