Ugh! Rti70's!
codyc1ark
Posts: 2,532
Just picked up a pair of rti70s, dropped em' in and both have blown tweeters. Thankfully I don't have much in them, and what reading tells me they most likely aren't worth fixing. You guys know if the is any interest in the woofers or baffles? Stinks buying a pair of speaks when you can't hear em first.
Post edited by codyc1ark on
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Make sure you have the brass connection jumpers on the binding posts.HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable -
Dennis Gardner wrote: »Make sure you have the brass connection jumpers on the binding posts.
I had already checked and double checked. :mad: -
Wow, that sucks. I'm running RTi70s and I like the way they sound. Why do you think they aren't worth fixing?Equipment list:
Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
Emotiva XPA-3 amp
Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen -
That RTi series wasn't a very liked generation in the RT line. I had the 70s for a couple years and they were fine with me, but there were generations before and after that sounded better.
That being said, why not see if you can get some replacement tweeters for cheap and see how you like them? -
AsSiMiLaTeD wrote: »That RTi series wasn't a very liked generation in the RT line. I had the 70s for a couple years and they were fine with me, but there were generations before and after that sounded better.
That being said, why not see if you can get some replacement tweeters for cheap and see how you like them?
Most ofthe reviews said what your saying. I'm going to call into Polk Monday or Tuesday and see what a replacement pair is. I would like to hear them, just to get my ears on another pair of polks. -
The RTi70 line lasted a little over a year where as most Polk lines last 3-5-10 years...- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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I have a second HT system that has my old RTi70's, a CSi40, and a pair of RTi38's. It sounds really nice and the RTi70's dig deep enough that it works well without a sub. Not a speaker I would use for a music only system, but for HT they work fine.DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
Polk has no replacements in stock. I've been trying to track down replacements for my 3000p's for quite a while now.
I had read that there was an alternate tweeter that fits from Polk, any idea on that one? Seems like I'll have to part the drivers out and perhaps find a home for the cabs if anyone needs them. -
The RT3000p tweeter (the tri lam) was discontinued when the RTi70 series came out (silk tweeter) -
There for a while they were interchangeable so I am guessing the RTi70 tweeter is discontinued?
Looks like EBay is your best bet... Just remember those tweeters snap into the baffle, no screw holes- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Probably an obvious suggestion, but did you check the drivers to make sure it was the tweeter and not the crossover?
crossover components would be easier to source than the tweeter."Don't forget to change your politician. They are like diapers they need to be changed regularly, and for the same reason." -
I have not checked the xovers, however just got off the phone with CS and they stated there has been two different tweeters avail, but nothing in stock. I don't think they support this line anymore. So, back to square one, whatever that is.
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I have bought used speakers before, hooked em up and the tweeter doesn't work. Open them up and low and behold the wired connecting the tweeter had come unplugged. On one pair of older polk (rt3s I believe) there was no sound coming from the woofer of one speaker and no sound coming from the tweeter of the other. Opened them both up and both had disconnected from the crossover, easy fix. Took about 10 minutes. Definitely worth a try.Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Alright, check it. I think I have a blowen cap on my crossover, what do you guys think?
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Take a look at the RTi70 schematic here. You will see that the 7.5uf cap (C1) that is blown in your crossover is indeed in the tweeter circuit. It's definitely worth it to try replacing it, as the cap will be inexpensive. However, just replacing the cap won't ensure that there aren't other components in that circuit that are faulty. Do you have a DMM that you could use to test the other components in the tweeter circuit?
...I would probably try replacing the cap anyway if I were you.2.1: PC>Schiit Gungnir MB>Schiit Freya Noval>NAD C-270>Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1, HSU STF-2 5.1: HDMI Bitstream>Denon AVR-1910>polkaudio RTE55, CS350-LS, RT3, HSU STF-2, Visio M55-F0 -
Take a look at the RTi70 schematic here. You will see that the 7.5uf cap (C1) that is blown in your crossover is indeed in the tweeter circuit. It's definitely worth it to try replacing it, as the cap will be inexpensive. However, just replacing the cap won't ensure that there aren't other components in that circuit that are faulty. Do you have a DMM that you could use to test the other components in the tweeter circuit?
...I would probably try replacing the cap anyway if I were you.
I do have a DMM. For the going rate on these speakers, I'm think I may cut my losses and part them out. Although, if anyone semi-local to western NC wanted the pair, I could cut a very, very good deal as a project speaker.... -
I do have a DMM. For the going rate on these speakers, I'm think I may cut my losses and part them out. Although, if anyone semi-local to western NC wanted the pair, I could cut a very, very good deal as a project speaker....
You're going to part out a pair of speakers because you need to replace two 10-cent capacitors??? Holy moly.. Good luck!Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector for movies
Carada 106" Precision Series (Classic Cinema White)
Denon AVR-X3600H pre/pro
Outlaw 770 7-channel amplifier
B&W CDM1-SE fronts
B&W CDM-CNT center
B&W CDM1 rears on MoPADs
JBL SP8CII in-ceiling height speakers
Samsung DTB-H260F OTA HDTV tuner
DUAL NHT SubTwo subwoofers
Oppo BDP-93 Blu-Ray player
Belkin PF60 Power Center
Harmony 1100 RF remote with RF extender
Sony XBR-X950G 55" 4K HDR Smart TV + PS3 in the living room