Ugh! Rti70's!

codyc1ark
codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
edited February 2012 in The Clubhouse
Just picked up a pair of rti70s, dropped em' in and both have blown tweeters. Thankfully I don't have much in them, and what reading tells me they most likely aren't worth fixing. You guys know if the is any interest in the woofers or baffles? Stinks buying a pair of speaks when you can't hear em first.
Post edited by codyc1ark on

Comments

  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited February 2012
    Make sure you have the brass connection jumpers on the binding posts.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

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  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited February 2012
    Make sure you have the brass connection jumpers on the binding posts.

    I had already checked and double checked. :mad:
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited February 2012
    Wow, that sucks. I'm running RTi70s and I like the way they sound. Why do you think they aren't worth fixing?
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
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  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,726
    edited February 2012
    That RTi series wasn't a very liked generation in the RT line. I had the 70s for a couple years and they were fine with me, but there were generations before and after that sounded better.

    That being said, why not see if you can get some replacement tweeters for cheap and see how you like them?
  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited February 2012
    That RTi series wasn't a very liked generation in the RT line. I had the 70s for a couple years and they were fine with me, but there were generations before and after that sounded better.

    That being said, why not see if you can get some replacement tweeters for cheap and see how you like them?


    Most ofthe reviews said what your saying. I'm going to call into Polk Monday or Tuesday and see what a replacement pair is. I would like to hear them, just to get my ears on another pair of polks.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,615
    edited February 2012
    The RTi70 line lasted a little over a year where as most Polk lines last 3-5-10 years...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited February 2012
    I have a second HT system that has my old RTi70's, a CSi40, and a pair of RTi38's. It sounds really nice and the RTi70's dig deep enough that it works well without a sub. Not a speaker I would use for a music only system, but for HT they work fine.
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited February 2012
    DSkip wrote: »
    Polk has no replacements in stock. I've been trying to track down replacements for my 3000p's for quite a while now.

    I had read that there was an alternate tweeter that fits from Polk, any idea on that one? Seems like I'll have to part the drivers out and perhaps find a home for the cabs if anyone needs them.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,615
    edited February 2012
    The RT3000p tweeter (the tri lam) was discontinued when the RTi70 series came out (silk tweeter) -

    There for a while they were interchangeable so I am guessing the RTi70 tweeter is discontinued?

    Looks like EBay is your best bet... Just remember those tweeters snap into the baffle, no screw holes
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • seeclear
    seeclear Posts: 1,242
    edited February 2012
    Probably an obvious suggestion, but did you check the drivers to make sure it was the tweeter and not the crossover?

    crossover components would be easier to source than the tweeter.
    "Don't forget to change your politician. They are like diapers they need to be changed regularly, and for the same reason."
  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited February 2012
    I have not checked the xovers, however just got off the phone with CS and they stated there has been two different tweeters avail, but nothing in stock. I don't think they support this line anymore. So, back to square one, whatever that is.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    edited February 2012
    I have bought used speakers before, hooked em up and the tweeter doesn't work. Open them up and low and behold the wired connecting the tweeter had come unplugged. On one pair of older polk (rt3s I believe) there was no sound coming from the woofer of one speaker and no sound coming from the tweeter of the other. Opened them both up and both had disconnected from the crossover, easy fix. Took about 10 minutes. Definitely worth a try.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
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  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited February 2012
    Alright, check it. I think I have a blowen cap on my crossover, what do you guys think?
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  • Tbone289
    Tbone289 Posts: 661
    edited February 2012
    Take a look at the RTi70 schematic here. You will see that the 7.5uf cap (C1) that is blown in your crossover is indeed in the tweeter circuit. It's definitely worth it to try replacing it, as the cap will be inexpensive. However, just replacing the cap won't ensure that there aren't other components in that circuit that are faulty. Do you have a DMM that you could use to test the other components in the tweeter circuit?

    ...I would probably try replacing the cap anyway if I were you.
    2.1: PC>Schiit Gungnir MB>Schiit Freya Noval>NAD C-270>Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1, HSU STF-2 5.1: HDMI Bitstream>Denon AVR-1910>polkaudio RTE55, CS350-LS, RT3, HSU STF-2, Visio M55-F0
  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited February 2012
    Tbone289 wrote: »
    Take a look at the RTi70 schematic here. You will see that the 7.5uf cap (C1) that is blown in your crossover is indeed in the tweeter circuit. It's definitely worth it to try replacing it, as the cap will be inexpensive. However, just replacing the cap won't ensure that there aren't other components in that circuit that are faulty. Do you have a DMM that you could use to test the other components in the tweeter circuit?

    ...I would probably try replacing the cap anyway if I were you.

    I do have a DMM. For the going rate on these speakers, I'm think I may cut my losses and part them out. Although, if anyone semi-local to western NC wanted the pair, I could cut a very, very good deal as a project speaker....
  • ViperZ
    ViperZ Posts: 2,046
    edited February 2012
    codyc1ark wrote: »
    I do have a DMM. For the going rate on these speakers, I'm think I may cut my losses and part them out. Although, if anyone semi-local to western NC wanted the pair, I could cut a very, very good deal as a project speaker....

    You're going to part out a pair of speakers because you need to replace two 10-cent capacitors??? Holy moly.. Good luck!
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