5jr+'s up and playing (surprised)

inspiredsports

Mystery wrote: »

From what I read:
SL2000 --> RDO194
SL2500 --> RDO198.

$130 -- hmm...
Expensive upgrade...too much for my Monitor5.

I don't know if you mean "expensive" based upon what's in your wallet right now, or "expensive" based upon overall value.

If you DO mean based upon overall value, I'd urge you to have a more open mind and get your ears on some attached to a decent system.

Mystery

inspiredsports wrote: »

The improvement to the left speaker was noticeable and worth it. As you can imagine, the right speaker just completed today sounds like a fingernails on a chalkboard.

Hmm...so dynamat goes on the magnet?
I only had experience with dynamat on car doors but never knew it can be applied on the magnet.
Wouldn't it have more affect if applied on the cabinet?

gdb wrote: »

Sounds as though you are an AK'er, yes?

I wonder what gave you that idea.:eek:
Yes you are right, but still a new one there.

inspiredsports wrote: »

I don't know if you mean "expensive" based upon what's in your wallet right now, or "expensive" based upon overall value.
If you DO mean based upon overall value, I'd urge you to have a more open mind and get your ears on some attached to a decent system.

My wallet is pretty heavy, thanks to full time job.
It's expensive based on the fact that I got them 5's for less than cap upgrade price.
But if it really makes a lot of difference, I may go for cap upgrade but not to RDO's yet.
BTW, how do I find if the caps were already upgraded or not?

heiney9

RD0's are a better investment in caps if you have to choose one or the other. In fact when I did the caps/resistors in my 5B's the Sl2000's became completely unlistenable. The aged caps masked over some of the flaws inherent in the the Sl2000 only to come glaring back with the new caps. I do admit to not giving proper break-in of the new components as I ordered the RD0's the next day.

H9

inspiredsports

Mystery wrote: »

Hmm...so dynamat goes on the magnet?
I only had experience with dynamat on car doors but never knew it can be applied on the magnet.
Wouldn't it have more affect if applied on the cabinet?

Dynamat Extreme is only applied to the sheet metal frame to keep it from adding an unwanted "ringing" (resonance) to the mix, never to the magnet. That's the passive radiator you see with the "back" treated in photo 2 in post 29. The (MW6502) driver is the 3rd photo with no Dynamat on the magnet.

I wonder what gave you that idea.:eek: Yes you are right, but still a new one there.

The AK mindset seems to be that "nothing matters", everything sounds the same regardless of price, and spending money is taboo. Around here I think most have found that pretty much not to be the case.

My wallet is pretty heavy, thanks to full time job. It's expensive based on the fact that I got them 5's for less than cap upgrade price. But if it really makes a lot of difference, I may go for cap upgrade but not to RDO's yet.

A job is a good thing these days. It's hard to know until you try for yourself, but I've sure found cap/resistor/tweeter upgrades to make a much appreciated difference.

BTW, how do I find if the caps were already upgraded or not?

Old caps (blue) and resistors (sand) in my 5jr+s's looked like this. New Sonicap caps and Mills resistors can be seen in photo 4 of post 29. You could even go with more expensive Clarity caps, etc.

A modded 5jr series Polk truly is a keeper.

inspiredsports

heiney9 wrote: »

I used Clarity Cap PX for the high pass and Solen for the low pass and Mills resistors. I also splurged and bought a set of Larry's rings and tweeter brackets. And of course the RD0 tweets.

H9

I think we are mixing apples and oranges here Brock.

The 5jr+ only has 1 cap per crossover. You must be talking about a different model than 5jr+ if you have 2 caps.

heiney9

inspiredsports wrote: »

I think we are mixing apples and oranges here Brock.

The 5jr+ only has 1 cap. You must be talking about a different model than 5jr+ if you have 2 caps.

I was speaking strictly about what I used for my 5B's, as an example of the brands I used.

Sorry if that wasn't clear.

H9

inspiredsports

heiney9 wrote: »

I was speaking strictly about what I used for my 5B's, as an example of the brands I used.

Sorry if that wasn't clear.

H9

Got it.

I figured some new member in the future might look at the thread title, and then pull their hair out trying to find the second cap in their 5jr

Mystery

inspiredsports wrote: »

Dynamat Extreme is only applied to the sheet metal frame to keep it from adding an unwanted "ringing" (resonance) to the mix, never to the magnet.
The AK mindset seems to be that "nothing matters", everything sounds the same regardless of price, and spending money is taboo. Around here I think most have found that pretty much not to be the case.
A job is a good thing these days. It's hard to know until you try for yourself, but I've sure found cap/resistor/tweeter upgrades to make a much appreciated difference.
Old caps (blue) and resistors (sand) in my 5jr+s's looked like this. New Sonicap caps and Mills resistors can be seen in photo 4 of post 29. You could even go with more expensive Clarity caps, etc.
A modded 5jr series Polk truly is a keeper.

Thanks for explanation and information. Will do some research.

BTW, are there no cheap Chinese caps/resistors that may work?
The feeling is even cheapo caps should be better than old crappy ones inside.

heiney9

Mystery wrote: »

Thanks for explanation and information. Will do some research.

BTW, are there no cheap Chinese caps/resistors that may work?
The feeling is even cheapo caps should be better than old crappy ones inside.

Definitely from Audioholics

No, there aren't and no don't waste your time if you are just going to use el-cheapo caps.

Geez, we are talking $30 here, if that's too much to spend then just forget it and play them as they are. There comes a point where being cheap just isn't worth the effort. There was another newb on here who tried to cut corners using cheap electrolytics and he ended up eventually using some good poly caps and was amazed at the difference. He ended up spending more doing it twice.

Balls in your court now.

H9

soundfreak1

Too f-ING funny, I was tearing my hair and xovers out woundering " where the hell is that other f-ING cap at. Lol, can't afford to lose that much hair thankyou very much!lol

Mystery

heiney9 wrote: »

Definitely from Audioholics

He he... definitely not Audioholics... May be Alcoholics though.:rolleyes:

Okay, no cheapo. It's either the good one or none for now.
I know it's only $30 but the 5's I got for that much few weeks ago are so good that I like them as it is.
May be they sound better with upgrades but these as it is are almost as good as my ADS L620's.
I need to find someone with upgrades and listen the difference. :cool:

Don't worry, I'll slowly get mind set into spending more and more...
The journey has just begun.:idea:

soundfreak1

Money aside , sonicaps or clairity?

soundfreak1

Jave any of u replaced the binding posts? Of so what size of type fire the best. Might as well change them whilst I'm at it.

inspiredsports

Mystery wrote: »

Thanks for explanation and information. Will do some research.

BTW, are there no cheap Chinese caps/resistors that may work?
The feeling is even cheapo caps should be better than old crappy ones inside.

This question comes up in every audio forum I've ever seen.

I can only share that I have used (or paid someone to use) what are considered to be high quality caps/resistors/(and diodes in power supplies) in the following:

Polk SDA SRS 2, Polk SDA 2B, Polk SDA 1B, Polk Monitor 7, Polk Monitor 5Jr+s, VTL ST-50 tube amp, NAD 7600 SS Integrated, NAD 2600 SS amp, Conrad Johnson PV-5 tube pre, Conrad Johnson PV-7 tube pre, NAD 1700 SS pre, Dynaco PAS-3 tube pre, Fisher KM-60 FM tube tuner, Kenwood KT-5020 SS FM tuner, HA Info NG 27 SS DAC, Musical Fidelity X10v3 Tube Buffer, Little Pinkie X10 Power Supply, Yaqin CD1 Tube Buffer, Akai 1710 Tube Reel to Reel.

I've listened to more than 1 cap upgrade in some of that gear. Some claim cheap "yellow drop" and "orange drop" caps sound identical to higher line caps. That hasn't been what I've found.

In my opinion, every extra dollar I've spent on better caps has rewarded me with sonic improvement. Your mileage may vary.

You seem to have an open mind and maybe a few dollars to experiment with, so I would hope you try it out and decide for yourself.

cnh

Definitely great suggestions above. I've had a couple of receivers/amps recapped with the good stuff. It DOES make a big difference. My NAD below has new "better" than original caps, and it shows!

On another note! I'm sitting here listening to college FM from an old JVC R-S33 (40 watt x 2) receiver (that is nothing unusual) hooked up the the 5As.

Well, I guess the JVC has decent tuner in there, because the Monitors sound superb, and as far as I know everything in there is original. Those Peerless tweeters are so "smooth" they're liquid. The mids, defined but mellow, the bass "satisfying". System sounds "way" better than it has any right to! Tireless. I've been grading for a couple of hours with this in the background.

Damn, these speakers are "good"! I can't even "imagine" what they would sound like restored to their original condition or better. That just seems "impossible" to me because the sound is "already" so "there", I mean "here". lol

cnh