Bi-Amping - Is it Worth It?
paperthin567
Posts: 9
Hi All,
I just purchased a pair of RTi12's for my fronts and a CSi5 for my center and have them hooked up to a Pioneer SC05 (130 watt/channel, 7.1) receiver.
1 - Do any of you think that I would benefit from "bi-wiring" the fronts and center? If so, how much of a difference do you think it will make? Does it seperate the highs from the lows?
2 - If you do recommend "bi-wiring" these, could you please describe how to go about doing it?
Many thanks to anyone that can help.
-Luke
I just purchased a pair of RTi12's for my fronts and a CSi5 for my center and have them hooked up to a Pioneer SC05 (130 watt/channel, 7.1) receiver.
1 - Do any of you think that I would benefit from "bi-wiring" the fronts and center? If so, how much of a difference do you think it will make? Does it seperate the highs from the lows?
2 - If you do recommend "bi-wiring" these, could you please describe how to go about doing it?
Many thanks to anyone that can help.
-Luke
Post edited by paperthin567 on
Comments
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Your topic is one thing and your questions are about another.
Bi wiring is simply running two sets of speaker wire. Both sets hook up to the.same terminals on your reciever. Then on the speaker end one set hooks to the bottom set, and the other hooks to the top set. The major benefit is the removal of the metal connection straps between the top and bottom set of posts. You can achieve the same thing by into running one set of wires from your avr to the speakers. Then use a short piece of speaker wire to replace the metal jumpers.
The main benefit is the removal of the metal jumper.AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
Rear: FXI A4
Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II -
Bi Amping is a whole different animal. With out using external amps and active crossovers between the avr and amps it is not worth it.
The purpose of bi amping is to keep the high and low frequencies seperat. That way the amp for the low frequencies is not amplifing high frequencies and sending them to the woofers. The same goes for the mids and highs.
The active crossover also allows you to control what frequencies goes to what part of the speaker.
Bi amping with an avr is not worth it. You do not get to add up the wattage. Your still only feeding 130 watts to each speaker. With some recievers it is a step down in power because they put out less watts per channel when they have more channels to run.AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
Rear: FXI A4
Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II -
The main benefit is the removal of the metal jumper.
How is removing the metal jumper a benefit? -
paperthin567 wrote: »How is removing the metal jumper a benefit?
They're cheap and don't sound as good as they can. Using a small section of speaker wire or an aftermarket jumper can make a difference. It's a nice cheap/free mod to try, see for yourself. -
They're cheap and don't sound as good as they can. Using a small section of speaker wire or an aftermarket jumper can make a difference. It's a nice cheap/free mod to try, see for yourself.
Yep it will only cost you a couple inches of speaker wire.AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
Rear: FXI A4
Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II -
Yep it will only cost you a couple inches of speaker wire.
So I need to get 4 strips of speaker wire (2 sets total). Twist the ends together (positive and negative) of one end and plug into the receiver. The other ends, separate out and plug individually into the 4 speaker terminals on the back of each speaker? -
paperthin567 wrote: »So I need to get 4 strips of speaker wire (2 sets total). Twist the ends together (positive and negative) of one end and plug into the receiver. The other ends, separate out and plug individually into the 4 speaker terminals on the back of each speaker?
That seems like overkill unless you're using four conductor wire.
First I tried this;
Then I made these with four conductor wire;
Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2
Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman -
Like that, you don't have to use spades you can use bare wire or bananas. -
Yes. Two amps are better than one, unless you can muster up an amp with 500 wpc @ 8^. Your 12's are similar to my A9's and rated at 50 - 500 watts. It is a good thing to feed the monsters and keep them happy.Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.
Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's. -
You don't need 500 watts to drive the 12's or 9's....period.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
You don't need 500 watts to drive the 12's or 9's....period.
Thats true, but mine needed at least 200wpc to bring out the low end. -
Yeah, but I bet it'd be fun to drive the 12's or 9's with 500watts.Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2
Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman -
Yeah, but I bet it'd be fun to drive the 12's or 9's with 500watts.
Yes, the more watts the better the sound overall. -
Yes, the more watts the better the sound overall.
This statement is absolutely untrue. I have heard some killer 10wpc or less tube amps that would blow away a solid state amp with 50 times more power.The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
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nooshinjohn wrote: »This statement is absolutely untrue. I have heard some killer 10wpc or less tube amps that would blow away a solid state amp with 50 times more power.
Yep my RTI A7's with a carver A-753x, 250 watts per channel playing at referance level (82 on my Onkyo TX-NR808) reaches 106-107 db. It is only useing around 60-120 watts (according to the gauges on the front of the amp).AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
Rear: FXI A4
Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II