Standoffs-steel vs plastic
jimbo1421
Posts: 772
Hello everyone,
I am doing some repairs on my recently acquired CRS+. They seem to have had a rough life. At some point a crossover circuit board broke loose from the nylon snap in standoffs which attach it to the big coil (inductor?). Is there any reason not to replace the nylon standoffs with steel ones? The screw heads would be quite close to the winding. The standoffs on the intact crossover are a bit loose and might rattle, so I thought a tightly screwed down circuit board would be better. Sound OK?
Jim
I am doing some repairs on my recently acquired CRS+. They seem to have had a rough life. At some point a crossover circuit board broke loose from the nylon snap in standoffs which attach it to the big coil (inductor?). Is there any reason not to replace the nylon standoffs with steel ones? The screw heads would be quite close to the winding. The standoffs on the intact crossover are a bit loose and might rattle, so I thought a tightly screwed down circuit board would be better. Sound OK?
Jim
5.1 System:
TCL R613 55" 4K
Front: SRS-3.1TL
Center: CS400i
Surround: Monitor 10B
PSW10 subwoofer
Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
Parasound P3 pre-amp
Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz
2.0 Office System:
Monitor 10A (Peerless)
Outlaw 1050 receiver
Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
MacPro
TCL R613 55" 4K
Front: SRS-3.1TL
Center: CS400i
Surround: Monitor 10B
PSW10 subwoofer
Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
Parasound P3 pre-amp
Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz
2.0 Office System:
Monitor 10A (Peerless)
Outlaw 1050 receiver
Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
MacPro
Post edited by jimbo1421 on
Comments
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Buy some nylon standoffs that attach with screws at each end. Mouser and Digi-key sell tham. Do not use metal ones.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks, F1. Is this due to some kind of electromagnetic interference?
I found nylon ones at Digi-Key. Should I also use nylon screws?
Jim5.1 System:
TCL R613 55" 4K
Front: SRS-3.1TL
Center: CS400i
Surround: Monitor 10B
PSW10 subwoofer
Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
Parasound P3 pre-amp
Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz
2.0 Office System:
Monitor 10A (Peerless)
Outlaw 1050 receiver
Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
MacPro -
It's possible, so best to avoid that possibility.
Either all nylon or the metal screws encased in nylon.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I found these at Digi-Key:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/NY%20PMS%20632%200038%20PH/H556-ND/46317
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/1903C/1903CK-ND/61882
They look like they will work if I can't find something local.
Another question occurred to me: The nut inside the big coil which receives the large bolt that attaches the crossover to the cabinet was just stuck on with hot melt glue. It popped off. I replaced it with a tee nut, fastened with small screws. Any problem with that?
Jim5.1 System:
TCL R613 55" 4K
Front: SRS-3.1TL
Center: CS400i
Surround: Monitor 10B
PSW10 subwoofer
Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
Parasound P3 pre-amp
Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz
2.0 Office System:
Monitor 10A (Peerless)
Outlaw 1050 receiver
Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
MacPro -
I use something that used to be called "tip toes" for ALL my Monitor 10's (3 per speaker); they are basically solid metal/aluminum. Results in a clean+tight bass.Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets
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jimbo1421, these are what some of us use.
Mouser part numbers;
561-R832.375
561-MF832-75
561-H832
651-08032Another question occurred to me: The nut inside the big coil which receives the large bolt that attaches the crossover to the cabinet was just stuck on with hot melt glue. It popped off. I replaced it with a tee nut, fastened with small screws. Any problem with that?
Probably not, they are further away from the coil than some of the screws would be on the board.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I use something that used to be called "tip toes" for ALL my Monitor 10's (3 per speaker); they are basically solid metal/aluminum. Results in a clean+tight bass.
We're talking about standoffs for a crossover board, not speaker spikes.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
We're talking about standoffs for a crossover board, not speaker spikes.“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain
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Ferrous metals and inductors don't mix well. I would stick with nylon.
However, as a 2012 project, I 've just purchased a second set of 2B crossovers that I indend to modify into external crossovers mounted in a wooden case. I will probably experiment with elevating the cases on spikes.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
If spikes work for speakers why wouldn't they work for a crossover. :razz:
Hehe.....Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks, F1. I found nylon standoffs and screws locally. Everything is back together now and in my rig. See http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?127953-SDA-1b-vs-CRS.
The next job is to come up with a good interconnect cable/jack. I just stuck an RCA plug into the pin hole, but it is a loose fit.
Jim5.1 System:
TCL R613 55" 4K
Front: SRS-3.1TL
Center: CS400i
Surround: Monitor 10B
PSW10 subwoofer
Onkyo PR-SC886P Pre/Pro
NAD T955 5 channel power amplifier
Technics SL-1710 MK2 turntable
Audio-Technica AT14Sa cartridge
Parasound P3 pre-amp
Oppo BDP-103 Blu-Ray
2014 MacBook Pro 2.8 GHz
2.0 Office System:
Monitor 10A (Peerless)
Outlaw 1050 receiver
Parasound HCA-1000A power amp
MacPro