I got them!
musky1963
Posts: 275
Well I finally acquired some 2.3TL's yesterday and moving some stuff out of the way to position them better. I wasn't 100% positive they were the TL's since they weren't stamped "TL" on the back plate, but I am 99% re-assured after my other post that they are the real deal. I also ended up getting an Acoustat TNT200 amp(all mosfets). I knew that would be a good amp for them as I have had a few of them before, driving big Infinities. Those amps also have a damping factor of 1000!. I am sure glad I held out waiting for a set of TL's instead of jumping on the 1st set of any big Polks. I will take a few pics after I get them in a better position. They sound good now, but I know I can get them even better. :eek:
Jeff
Post edited by musky1963 on
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Congrats!
I don't know anything about that amp but just make sure its common ground -
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Congrats. You'll love those TLs.Turntable: Empire 208
Arm: Rega 300
Cart: Shelter 501 III
Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified -
Congrats! The easist way to determine if a set of 2.3's are TL's or not is to look at the drivers. If the top and bottom drivers (on the side with 4) are donuts, they are the non-TL version. If they are real drivers, then they are TL's.
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No donuts
. I am already looking into possible upgrades(it's my nature). Should I just keep the sl3000's in there or are the rdo-98's that much better? I am also going to spike the bottoms to see if that does anything. What is the single screw on the back for? It is between the label and the binding posts? It is loose and won't tighten. Anything else to tweek? Jeff -
Congrats! I suggest listening to them for several weeks to familiarize yourself with their sound, and then start the mods
"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
+1 /\SDA2BTL
Marantz CD5004
Adcom GFA-545
Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp -
I don't want to modify or alter them, just simple improvements for now.Jeff
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Actually it's really easy to tell the difference between the 2.3 & 2.3TL's as you cant always go by the color of the tweeters (they may have the RDO-194's which look just like the SL-3000/RD0-198's) and whether or not they have they have the doughnut drivers.No donuts . I am already looking into possible upgrades(it's my nature). Should I just keep the sl3000's in there or are the rdo-98's that much better? I am also going to spike the bottoms to see if that does anything. What is the single screw on the back for? It is between the label and the binding posts? It is loose and won't tighten. Anything else to tweek?
Take the grill off the left speaker (look on the back label to make sure it's the left one) looking at the front on the 2.3's going from left to right you'll have 4 6 1/2" drivers then 3 tweeters then 2 6 1/2" drivers, On the 2.3TL's this will be reversed.
On the SL-3000 vs the RDO-198 most will say the RDO's sound smother/better less harsh. I've never heard ether one so I can't really say. But I'd guess most here will say get the RDO-198's and upgrade the crossovers.
On that bolt I believe it's what hold's the crossover in place. You'll have to pull the passive then remove the crossover board from that big round inductor after which you'll find a nut covered in hot glue that you'll need to get hold of in order to tighten that screw up. Just pick out all the old hot glue then tighten it up the cover it back up with new hot glue.
Hope this helps.“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
No donuts . I am already looking into possible upgrades(it's my nature). Should I just keep the sl3000's in there or are the rdo-98's that much better? I am also going to spike the bottoms to see if that does anything. What is the single screw on the back for? It is between the label and the binding posts? It is loose and won't tighten. Anything else to tweek?
I had SL-3000's in my 2.3TL's when I brought them home 5 months ago. I listened to them for a couple of weeks, ordered the RD-0198's and swapped 'em in. H-U-G-E difference, for the better.
The new tweeters are smoother with no roll off of high frequencies. Better imaging too.
With the first song I played any doubts I had about whether or not this would be an upgrade or a lateral move (not better, just different) vanished. Highly recommended!"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Welcome to the SDA. I would recommend some type of tape on your face cheeks to prevent that permagrin that SDA owners get.
SRS 2.3TL
SRS 2>
>
>This message has been scanned by the NSA and found to be free of harmful intent.< -
If that screw is loose it needs to be fixed as you will have an air leak. That screw is for what they call a bass brace to fix the speakers to the wall with a piece of all thread, I made my own and mounted them most don't use it as its not needed but I do like that my speakers feel solid and don't move. It does help with the the bass a little but putting spikes on them will give you greater improvements in bass and clarity. But do fix the screw so you have no air leaks..
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Also if it will not tighten then the t-nut is not seating correctly on the inside of the cabinet, if it will not seat and you have no plans on using a bass brace then just put some hot glue on the inside over the t-nut to keep it air tight..
Ohhh and congrats!!! -
Thanks, I will look at it in the am. I take it I have to take out the PR. I am trying to get them to image better right now. Not getting a crazy drum roll from right to left on certain tracks that I am used to. I should upgrade my Beta 40 preamp eventually.Jeff
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Did you buy these in the Seattle area? I saw some 2.3s for sale locally and I was very tempted to "trade in" my 1Cs. Good snag!
System 1:Nakamichi PA-7Kenwood Basic C2Polk SDA 1C moddedSystem 2:Dynaco ST-70Polk Monitor 5B modded -
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If that screw is loose it needs to be fixed as you will have an air leak. That screw is for what they call a bass brace to fix the speakers to the wall with a piece of all thread, I made my own and mounted them most don't use it as its not needed but I do like that my speakers feel solid and don't move. It does help with the the bass a little but putting spikes on them will give you greater improvements in bass and clarity. But do fix the screw so you have no air leaks..
Larry if I'm not mistaken isn't the bass brace bolt higher up more to the top than between binding post plate and label.“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
I can see where the brace would go towards the top. These are way down by the binding posts and are a black phillips head, not a tee nut.Jeff
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Yep That's the one that hold the crossover in place. Actually I think it's an alien head bolt See my earlier post #10I can see where the brace would go towards the top. These are way down by the binding posts and are a black phillips head, not a tee nut.“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
Yep I read it wrong the bolt your talking about is for the crossover...
Sorry guys!!! -
Your excused.
“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
Quick question. Should I check the wiring in the 6510's? I pulled one out to have a peek. The black wire is going to a red dot, which looks to be a hand painted dot, not a label. Just wondering if maybe their might be a phase issue?Jeff
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I knew that would be a good amp for them as I have had a few of them before, driving big Infinities. Those amps also have a damping factor of 1000!.
The damping factor has a lot less to nothing to do with how good an amp is. Here's a good read on the subject, http://www.audioholics.com/education/amplifier-technology/damping-factor-effects-on-system-response
Congrats on the speakers, get the RD0198-1's.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Quick question. Should I check the wiring in the 6510's? I pulled one out to have a peek. The black wire is going to a red dot, which looks to be a hand painted dot, not a label. Just wondering if maybe their might be a phase issue?
Black or blue is positive. White or green is negative. The black wire should be connected to the red dot terminal.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
