Burn in
rromeo923
Posts: 1,513
Is Burn in real??
How long does it take?
I replaced my SL2000 tweeters w/ RDO 194's in my SDA 1C's. I was told that burn in takes about 50hrs.
I definitely noticed an improvement right away. I believe I heard some definite improvement after the first few hours (Burn in?) but after that I havent really heard any improvement and I am about 100 hrs plus.
I now had new Capacitors put in my speakers (Clarity ESA and PX) and they were an improvement right away. Now I am about 10hrs in and I believe I have hearing a definite improvement as at first I thought the highs were a bit bright and now they are mellowing and I am hearing a kind of sweetness to the sound
I have been told that the Caps will continue to get better up until about 200hrs.
Just wondering what others think and what they have experienced.
How long does it take?
I replaced my SL2000 tweeters w/ RDO 194's in my SDA 1C's. I was told that burn in takes about 50hrs.
I definitely noticed an improvement right away. I believe I heard some definite improvement after the first few hours (Burn in?) but after that I havent really heard any improvement and I am about 100 hrs plus.
I now had new Capacitors put in my speakers (Clarity ESA and PX) and they were an improvement right away. Now I am about 10hrs in and I believe I have hearing a definite improvement as at first I thought the highs were a bit bright and now they are mellowing and I am hearing a kind of sweetness to the sound
I have been told that the Caps will continue to get better up until about 200hrs.
Just wondering what others think and what they have experienced.
I got static in my head
The reflected sound of everything
The reflected sound of everything
Post edited by rromeo923 on
Comments
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Don't even comment until you hit the 200+ hour mark.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
So you are a true believer in Burn in.
Do you mean 200+ w/ the tweeters too? or is that a whole other ball of wax. I have heard no difference in the tweets after the first few hours.I got static in my head
The reflected sound of everything -
Yep and yep. They will start to sound worse then get better again.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Don't even comment until you hit the 200+ hour mark.
H9
Is that 200 hours of continuous music playing or could it be 200 hours accumulated after say, 3 weeks of playing music here and there throughout the day? Someone once told me it had to be non-stop or it doesn't count, lol. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »Is that 200 hours of continuous music playing or could it be 200 hours accumulated after say, 3 weeks of playing music here and there throughout the day? Someone once told me it had to be non-stop or it doesn't count, lol.
In my experience it's 200 hours cumulative. It's nice to get it done non stop, it's quicker. I've always done it in 4-8 hour blocks of time."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
I usually leave my stereo on mid volume while I go to work to burn in- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Burn in for me seems to be real for everything. However, speakers, being electro-mechanical devices, seem to provide the most obvious burn-in improvements. Although I do not have the equipment, I strongly suspect you could easily measure a difference between a new speaker and one that has been 'exercised'.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
300 hours of signal (on for one hour, off for one hour = 1 hour) and the process will be complete. 200 hours will yield most of the improvement.
However, I'm not certain why you started this thread. If you believe the phenenom exists, no one needs to write a thing. If you don't, 10,000 posts won't change your mind.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
I feel burn in is very real in phono cartridges and speakers in particular. Both being electrical/mechanical devices that need some "loosening" up before they reach their full potentials.SDA-1C (full mods)
Carver TFM-55
NAD 1130 Pre-amp
Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
The Clamp
Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
Ben's IC's
Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM -
There will be days they will sound great, days they will sound bright, and days it just sounds like **** till your at the 200-400 hour mark. At the 400hr mark they should sound fantastically beautiful, of course the right gear will further the improvements.
YMMV..Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Yep and yep. They will start to sound worse then get better again.
H9
Just like a wife.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I hope burn in is real. My speakers have been TL'd and they sound decent but not what I would like. At this point I have about 80-100 hours on them. I hooked an old tuner up to my gear and it is running 24/7.
It really is hard not to believe that burn in is not real. So many of those here with so much experience says it is so.SDA2BTL
Marantz CD5004
Adcom GFA-545
Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp -
Just thinking of the material science and physics behind it, there is good reason to believe that burn in
is real for speakers and phono cartridges, mainly due to the properties of the surrounds, cones, spiders,
and cantilever suspensions.
I'd like to hear of good (believable) reasons to believe that burn-in improvement is real for things like
cables, resistors, transistors, ICs, inductors, etc.
If so, how many times do I have to cycle my on-off switch or adjust my volume control until it's
really operating at its peak??cristo
NAD C 545BEE cd player, Philips AF877 turntable / Shure V15V-MR with JICO SAS stylus,
Tascam 122 mkIII cassette deck, Harman Kardon 3480 receiver, Terk FM-50 antenna in the attic,
Soundcraftsmen SE550 stereo equalizer, Polk Monitor 10a speakers
(with Sonicraft/Solen/Mills crossover rebuild) -
Ok I am 23hrs in and I have decided that burn in is awesome. Not sure if I am noticing anything but I am listening to some great tunes coming out of some amazing speakers!!I got static in my head
The reflected sound of everything -
Ok I am 23hrs in and I have decided that burn in is awesome. Not sure if I am noticing anything but I am listening to some great tunes coming out of some amazing speakers!!
Haha! Me too. I am about 145 hrs in but I have not been listening very much as the time as gone by. My gear has been playing around the clock. Can't wait till around Thursday when things should be premo according to the priests.SDA2BTL
Marantz CD5004
Adcom GFA-545
Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp -
I've used one of these for about 3 years now. I hate to recommend yet another expense, but I've found the Isotek Full System Enhancer CD speeds things along nicely . . .
http://www.musicdirect.com/p-3521-isotek-full-system-enhancer-burn-in-cd.aspxVTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »I've used one of these for about 3 years now. I hate to recommend yet another expense, but I've found the Isotek Full System Enhancer CD speeds things along nicely . . .
http://www.musicdirect.com/p-3521-isotek-full-system-enhancer-burn-in-cd.aspx
Looks interesting. I must say I am fairly happy with what I am hearing at this time. The damn tweets are still rough around the edges. If that would smooth out I would be very happy.SDA2BTL
Marantz CD5004
Adcom GFA-545
Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp -
Looks interesting. I must say I am fairly happy with what I am hearing at this time. The damn tweets are still rough around the edges. If that would smooth out I would be very happy.
I know I read your modification thread, but can't remember. Did you remove and bypass the polyswitch? And what brand and value resistor did you use?VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »I know I read your modification thread, but can't remember. Did you remove and bypass the polyswitch? And what brand and value resistor did you use?
Can't remember? Why my mod should be all you think about. :biggrin:
I removed the polyswitch and the bypass cap. Installed a .33 Mills in the polyswitch after not liking the .5 Mills. Everything is coming together little by little. Sitting here critically listening to the speakers with a good mix of complicated music and I have to say they are keeping my attention. In my opinion the tweeters are not handling some vocals and some piano that I am feeding them.
Think they will get better?SDA2BTL
Marantz CD5004
Adcom GFA-545
Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp -
Compensating for the removed poly is the right answer. Sometimes if you don't allow for the extra resistance the tweeter can sound a bit harsh. Time should smooth things out.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »Compensating for the removed poly is the right answer. Sometimes if you don't allow for the extra resistance the tweeter can sound a bit harsh. Time should smooth things out.
That is what I like to hear.SDA2BTL
Marantz CD5004
Adcom GFA-545
Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp -
How can you say you don't like the .5ohm resistor when you haven't let everything settle in (burn in) not sure if I like the idea of a .33ohm resistor. I just might order some resistors and play with them in place of the .5ohm
I just think you jumped the gun when you haven't even let the tweeters settle in. One needs to spend some time with their speakers when doing upgrades like this. I spent hundreds of hours with my crossovers with mills resistors before moving on to Duland resistors, I did the same with my inductors.
Don't pass judgment on one thing till you really let them settle in.Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
How can you say you don't like the .5ohm resistor when you haven't let everything settle in (burn in) not sure if I like the idea of a .33ohm resistor. I just might order some resistors and play with them in place of the .5ohm
I just think you jumped the gun when you haven't even let the tweeters settle in. One needs to spend some time with their speakers when doing upgrades like this. I spent hundreds of hours with my crossovers with mills resistors before moving on to Duland resistors, I did the same with my inductors.
Don't pass judgment on one thing till you really let them settle in.
Good and fair statements. I have modded these speakers twice. The 1st caps that were installed were Erse. I run those for around 200 hours and the .5 Mills was just wearing me out. Funny thing is when I replaced it with a .33 some of my harshness left. One would think that it would get worse, i.e. more power to the tweeters. In all fairness that was with the Erse caps and I will not comment on them much. Also had Erse electros in the mids which many warned me about. Right and right! Never again.
I mentioned to Jesse that the .33 sounded better to me as I have always liked highs a bit more than the lows so it seemed to fit me better. There are a few posts here where .27s on up have been used.
My observations for what they are worth. The important part is they are sounding better now and hopefully the last part of the burn in will polish them up!SDA2BTL
Marantz CD5004
Adcom GFA-545
Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp -
For what it's worth, I've found resistors don't change much, if at all, over time. With caps and inductors however, I've experienced noticable improvement over time.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »For what it's worth, I've found resistors don't change much, if at all, over time. With caps and inductors however, I've experienced noticable improvement over time.
Resistors will stay preserved better than a retired Twinkie taste tester.SDA2BTL
Marantz CD5004
Adcom GFA-545
Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp -
saggansingh post reported as spam for removalVTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
Resistors will stay preserved better than a retired Twinkie taste tester.
The biggest benefit gained by replacing original sand resistors with Mills or better is a reduction in circuit noise. That noise reduction doesn't seem to change over time.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »For what it's worth, I've found resistors don't change much, if at all, over time. With caps and inductors however, I've experienced noticable improvement over time.
I would say yes and no but fair enough none the less. But changing the .5 resistor before the tweeters have had the time to settle down doesn't make sense to me..
Just my opinon..:redface:Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
I would say yes and no but fair enough none the less. But changing the .5 resistor before the tweeters have had the time to settle down doesn't make sense to me..
Just my opinon..:redface:
Again, I had another set of caps in there that had around 200 hours on them. Changed to the new caps, same harshness. I did not notice that harshness until I had installed the .5 Mills with the old cap setup replacing a jumper I had installed to replace the poly switch.
I just have my fingers crossed that everything smooths out soon. My 200 hour mark is approaching quickly.....SDA2BTL
Marantz CD5004
Adcom GFA-545
Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp -
We all need to live together in a house for a month. Then we can actually compare what we hear as we all hear it together!!
Reality show!!I got static in my head
The reflected sound of everything