RDO-198-1 Bright????

Braddles
Braddles Posts: 228
edited November 2011 in Vintage Speakers
I managed to pick up a pair of RTA11tl speakers that had both SL3000 tweeters blown thanks to someone slipping with the volume at a party so the previous owner said. I replaced them with some RDO-198-1 tweeters.

They seem a bit bright and forward. I thought it would get better with some run in time but while its improved slightly (they have been in for a few months now) i find i can only listen a fairly moderate levels or they are quite harsh.

Any suggestion on whats happening? Could the xo caps been damaged when the tweeters blew and affecting the sound of the new tweeters?

Ive done some searching and havent found anything but positive reports on the rdo's. So im wondering whats up?

Cheers
Brad
2 Channel
Amp - Jas Audio Bravo 3.2 set
Power Cord - Tunami GPX
CDP - Marantz cd6002 - Audio gd Ref 5 Dac
Speakers - Tekton Lore,Polk Audio RTA11tl completely refreshed.
Post edited by Braddles on

Comments

  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited November 2011
    Bright and forward are not terms I would use to describe the RD-0198 tweeters. I replaced the SL3000's that were original equipment in my 2.3TL's and the improvement was immediate: more relaxed, smoother treble with increased deinition, and a more spacious soundstage.

    There must be something else going on here. What are you driving your speakers with?

    If the tweeters were blown when you acquired the speakers there could be damage to the xover. Some Polks came with polyswitches in the xover to protect tweeters, and after these have tripped a number of times they can seriously degrade the sound from what I've read here on the forum.

    If the polyswitches are bad you can replace them. Or, if you have quality amplification, you can get rid of them altogether.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited November 2011
    So you never had a chance to hear the speakers with the sl3000's? What tubes are you running in the Ming Da integrated amp? What type of digital files are you listening to from the laptop?

    If the sound gets worse as the volume goes up it sounds like it could be a gear problem. Have you done anything to the x-overs? Perhaps they were damaged when the tweeters were damaged. The polyswitch as mentioned could be a real possibility as well.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • fbm211
    fbm211 Posts: 1,488
    edited November 2011
    Perhaps you should get rid of the polys and replace the resistors with mills since the mills are said to be on the warm side.
    And use those .05 mills in place of the polys or whatever value other polkies have used.(Sorry, I dont remember the value your supposed to use for that mod.)
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  • Braddles
    Braddles Posts: 228
    edited November 2011
    Sorry guys i didnt update my sig for a while. I have a Quad 99/909 and raysonic CD128.

    The Sl3000's were cooked when i got them.

    I have also tried my Luxman and Marantz CD6002 with the same results give or take.

    Is it possible to disconect the poly switch to see if this helps without damaging anything else?

    Can anyone point me to which on is the poly switch on the xo please?

    I do plan to upgrade the xo at some stage in the future too.
    2 Channel
    Amp - Jas Audio Bravo 3.2 set
    Power Cord - Tunami GPX
    CDP - Marantz cd6002 - Audio gd Ref 5 Dac
    Speakers - Tekton Lore,Polk Audio RTA11tl completely refreshed.
  • agfrost
    agfrost Posts: 2,428
    edited November 2011
    No polyswitches on the RTA11TL. There was one on the 11T. I've got the 11TLs with the RDO-198s, and I've never found them bright, either before or after modding the crossovers. Good luck figuring out what's going on!

    Jay

    Schematic

    Xoverpair.jpg
    Jay
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    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited November 2011
    Braddles wrote: »
    Could the xo caps been damaged when the tweeters blew and affecting the sound of the new tweeters?

    Yes, the caps could have been damaged. The reisistance of a polyswitch always increases after it has been tripped. It appears from the picture and schematic agfrost posted that your speakers may not have polyswitches.

    You need to look and make sure. Sometimes there were model variations that differed from the published schematic. This is particularly true of "transitional" models that were made at the beginning of a new version of an existing speaker model. Since the RTA11 had a polyswitch, if your pair of RTA11TL's is one of the earliest made, it may have a polyswitch. Polk may not have decided to remove the polyswitch until later in the 11TL's production run.
    Braddles wrote: »
    Is it possible to disconect the poly switch to see if this helps without damaging anything else?

    Here is a link to a thread which has pictures of polyswitches:

    SDA Polyswitches Are Nasty

    The polyswitch is in series with the tweeters. If you remove it the tweeters won't get a signal. You can either remove the polyswitch and replace it with a short piece of wire or leave the polyswitch in place and short it out of the circuit by soldering a short piece of wire across its terminals.

    Replacement polyswitches are provided free by Polk's Customer service department.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • Braddles
    Braddles Posts: 228
    edited November 2011
    Thanks for all the replies guys.

    I had another look at the xo and there is no poly switch. I suppose i will know when i recap the xo and see what happens.

    Its a bit stange though. Like i said at average levels its well balanced sound but as i increase the volume the highs become more and more prominent and in your face and i have to turn it down again. Im not talking excessive volume or anything. Just louder than what most would call average levels.

    Thanks again for the advice.
    2 Channel
    Amp - Jas Audio Bravo 3.2 set
    Power Cord - Tunami GPX
    CDP - Marantz cd6002 - Audio gd Ref 5 Dac
    Speakers - Tekton Lore,Polk Audio RTA11tl completely refreshed.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited November 2011
    Have you replaced anything else as of late?
    Cables/components?
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • Braddles
    Braddles Posts: 228
    edited November 2011
    Yes pepster i have tried a different amp and cdp with much the same results.

    I am just in the middle of swapping some ic's around and see if that helps.
    2 Channel
    Amp - Jas Audio Bravo 3.2 set
    Power Cord - Tunami GPX
    CDP - Marantz cd6002 - Audio gd Ref 5 Dac
    Speakers - Tekton Lore,Polk Audio RTA11tl completely refreshed.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,375
    edited November 2011
    I did the switch from SL-3000 to RDO-198 in my RTA11TL's and do not find them bright. I had also upgraded the XO components. I highly recommend the upgrade. I was amazed at the difference. Your original electrolytic caps are getting old and they may have been over stressed.
    Stan
    Stan

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    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited November 2011
    I'm thinking the event that blew out the SL3000's must have compromised something else in the crossover too.

    I would not characterize the RDO198-1's in my 2B's or SRS 2's as being bright.
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