No sound from right channel LSi25

pmckeealaska

I turned on my system this evening having experienced no problems before, however, when I went to listen to music, there was no sound coming out of my right main speaker. I have LSi25's and ran a tone test on all the speakers. All channels sounded fine and even the subwoofer in the right channel LSi25 was fine, however, there was no sound coming out of the tweeter or any other part of the speaker. I switched out the speaker cable into the other channel of both my reciever and 2 channel amp and still nothing. I have no idea whats going on. All interconnects seem to be securely fastened. Please help!

pmckeealaska

UPDATE: OK, so I just unhooked the interconnect from my two channel amp and switched out the center channel speaker cable to the right speaker. I ran the test tones and am now getting sound from that channel. However, nothing comes out of the tweeter and mids when I play music. So, it isnt the speaker thats faulty but then what the heck is it? I hope this gives someone more knowledgeable than I an idea of whats going on!

pmckeealaska

UPDATE #2: OK, I have now switched out the left and right speaker cables and, like I experienced with the center channel switch, I got sound out of the right speaker but nothing from the left speaker. It seems to me that it must either be the amp (fried right channel fuse) or the NAD reciever (bad right channel input). The NAD I have now is actually a refurbed one I got after the last one went bad, so I'm thinking it might be the reciever, which really pisses me off. I dont know where else to go with this from here!

[Deleted User]

Hello,
The next step is to reverse the two RCA cables that go from the receiver to the amp at the amp. Of course this is with the power off on the amp. If the problem remains in the same channel then the amp is at fault. If it changes channels then it is either the connecting cable (very common) or the receiver. I'm assuming you have tried different sources with the same result.
Regards, Ken

pmckeealaska

Thanks Ken. I switched out the interconnects that go from the receiver to the amp at the amp and got the same effect so I guess it's the amp. Luckily, there's an authorized service center for the amp here in Anchorage, so I guess I'll be taking it in. Any idea what the problem could be? The last night I was using it, everything was fine. Could it be A's sim

pmckeealaska

Oops. Posted by accident before I was done. I was going to say, could it be as

pmckeealaska

Dang it! Did it again. Could it be just a blown fuse or is the issue deeper than that?

[Deleted User]

I don't believe you mentioned what you were using for the amp?

pmckeealaska

I'm not sure what you're asking Ken? I'm using a Rotel RB 1080 amp, but I'm not sure if that what you were asking. However, I want to make sure that I'm telling you exactly what happened when I switched RCA cables going from the receiver to the amp at the amp as you suggested. The whole issue has been no sound from the right speaker. So, when I switched the RCA cables as you suggested and did the test tone on the receiver, when it cycled through the channels, there was then no sound from the "new" left channel (right speaker) but sound from the "new" right channel (left speaker). Am I accurate to say that this means that the issue IS the amp and not the receiver, since switching cables at the amp didnt result in sound from the right channel input of the amp?

[Deleted User]

Yes, I believe you are correct. The same speaker that previously wasn't playing continued to not play. And you had previously determined that the non-working speaker would work if it were connected to any other audio channel. It is possible there is a blown speaker protection fuse in your amp. It might be a good idea to check the owner's manual or give Rotel CS a call, or with the unit unplugged (just in case the amp's power supply stores energy for a while, give it a half hour after being unplugged from the AC) remove the top and see if you can find a fuse holder near where the speaker connections are.

pmckeealaska

Well its actually kind of relief that its the amp as I bought it from a dealer here in Anchorage and they also are an authorized service department for Rotel. The amp is no longer under warranty ( I bought it in 2004) but if its just a fuse then it shouldnt be too costly to repair. However, I am a little hesitant to remove the top and do any investigating on my own. I wonder if there is some place on the web that might have a schematic for this amp so I can see if there is a fuse holder at the speaker connection sites?

[Deleted User]

It looks as though each channel has two 3 amp fast blow fuses. These are power supply rail fuses, not speaker protection fuses, but if you look at them and can see that just the wire is broken rather than the inside of the glass is blackened, then replacing them would be a good idea. If they are blackened, then it's service time.

pmckeealaska

So is this something that I could repiar myself? If so, how would I go about finding the correct fuses to use?

pmckeealaska

Kenneth Swauger wrote: »

It looks as though each channel has two 3 amp fast blow fuses. These are power supply rail fuses, not speaker protection fuses, but if you look at them and can see that just the wire is broken rather than the inside of the glass is blackened, then replacing them would be a good idea. If they are blackened, then it's service time.

OK...I'll take the amp out and have a look at it. Thanks Ken.

txcoastal1

Pop the fuses the value will be posted on them...quick fix as long as they are in fuse holders and not soldered in...pick up a couple spares

[Deleted User]

The first step is to remove the cover and see if you can see the fuses. Then remove one and bring it to any place that stocks electronics parts. In the old days I would have recommended Radio Shack, but not so sure now. In all likelihood it will be a "metric" size fuse: 5mm x 20mm as opposed to a longer fuse. The current rating is 3 ampere and it is a fast blow instead of a slow blow or time delayed fuse. Most places if you bring the fuse will help you find the correct replacement.

pmckeealaska

Kenneth Swauger wrote: »

The first step is to remove the cover and see if you can see the fuses. Then remove one and bring it to any place that stocks electronics parts. In the old days I would have recommended Radio Shack, but not so sure now. In all likelihood it will be a "metric" size fuse: 5mm x 20mm as opposed to a longer fuse. The current rating is 3 ampere and it is a fast blow instead of a slow blow or time delayed fuse. Most places if you bring the fuse will help you find the correct replacement.

I took the top off but there is a red plastic housing around the right unbalanced input site and I cant see where the fuse might be. Any ideas?

pmckeealaska

The red plastic housing I'm talking about is at the top right of the attached photo. See red line pointing to it in the attached picture.

txcoastal1

There are fuses in the bottom right and left of the pictures

txcoastal1

Fuses marked with circles

pmckeealaska

So I assume that the fuses on each soundboard correspond to each input (i.e. right and left unbalanced inputs in this case?). Thanks for pointing me in the right direction txcoastal as I really dont know what I'm looking at when it comes to electronics!

pmckeealaska

OK, closer inspection shows no outward flaws with any of the fuses yuou circled. I assume this means its not a fuse issue. No idea where else to go with this.

txcoastal1

If you can take a small screw driver and pop them out and look at them with light...the filament is small does not have to be black...would be best if you could test continuty of the fuses with a cheap tester if you did not want to pull them

also I am not sure if there are more fuses...those are the only ones I can see in pics

pmckeealaska

OK, well I dont have the equipment here to test the fuses. I think I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and take it in to the authorized service shop. They've always treated me well there. I cant say that the whole time i've had the amp, the right side is always warmer than the left side, though I dont know if this is normal or not.

txcoastal1

Good luck...hope for a cheap fix...at least you have someone local

pmckeealaska

Yes indeed, I do have someone local and you wouldn't believe how rare that is for Alaska. One of the real downsides to living up here! Thanks for the assistance txcoastal!

pmckeealaska

I guess it could be a bad solder joint or something could have become unseated somewhere. At any rate, if either is true its way beyond my ability to remedy. Guess I'll find out on Monday when I take it in!