MIT Shotgun S3 speaker cables or interconnects first?

Dawgfish
Dawgfish Posts: 2,554
edited March 2012 in 2 Channel Audio
Howdy folks,

After reading all of these great reviews on the S3s the last few days, I've decided I'm going to give them a try. My problem is I cannot afford to replace both my speaker cables (8ft length, bi-wire) and my interconnects (5-1 meter pairs) at the same time. I figure I'll order either the speaker cables or all of the interconnects tomorrow and then purchase the other one next pay-day. Those of you with experience with both, which one would you go with first? In other words do you think the speaker cables or interconnects will make the most positive improvement until I get the others? I'm currently running AQ King Cobra ICs and dual runs of JW Audio Cryo Nova speaker wires 8ft in length. To be honest with you, my system has never sounded better than with this set-up. I'm very close to having it right where I want it, but my system just needs to be a little more refined in the lows. It has great depth and impact, but I'm looking for more detailed lows. I also want it to have the same tone in the mids and highs that I have now, along with a bigger and deeper soundstage. Thanks in advance.
Post edited by Dawgfish on
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Comments

  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited October 2011
    That sort of is what happened to me. I kept on reading how great MIT cables were, so I bought 3 sets of balanced S1.3 ICs. A tremendous improvement over the Kimber Kable ICs I was using. Later I bought the speaker cable S1.3, but they would not work with my amps in bridged mono mode. Instead of great music, all I heard was popping, and crackles. They seemed okay if I put the amp in stereo, but I only listened for a couple of seconds just to verify it was a cable issue.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited October 2011
    (5) 1 meter pairs of IC's?!:eek: Ouch. That'll set'ya back alright.

    Well, I don't have any experience yet, but I found myself in your shoes a couple days ago.

    I ordered the speaker cables, and I plan on getting my (2) pairs of IC's down the road.

    I should receive the speaker cables next week, and I'm super stoked! Joe's deal right now is ridiculous.

    I'm trying to get every piece of my two-channel setup to be "done", and after I get these cables, I'll be a few steps closer.:smile:


    Enjoy, and let us know what you decide.



    Cheers,


    Ben
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited October 2011
    BlueFox wrote: »
    ...they would not work with my amps in bridged mono mode. Instead of great music, all I heard was popping, and crackles. They seemed okay if I put the amp in stereo, but I only listened for a couple of seconds just to verify it was a cable issue.

    Interesting. What cables did you find to work well with your amps in mono?
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited October 2011
    Dawgfish wrote: »
    . . . speaker cables or interconnects first? . . .

    Speaker Interface Cables.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited October 2011
    Speaker Interface Cables.

    +1 on speaker cables first
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

    I’M OFFENDED!!!!
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    Speaker Cables first IMO!!!
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited October 2011
    Speaker cables. It's easily the best improvement you'll notice and it allows you to play with various interconnects as you see fit on a cheaper level. It's far easier to swap and buy IC's than it is speaker cables at this level and you won't be upgrading them anyways after this.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,338
    edited October 2011
    The speaker cables first, then your source cables, then preamp to amp.

    For the speaker cables, go directly to the Shotgun S1's. Otherwise, you'll always wonder how much better can the sound get. It's maddening, I know!!
    Carl

  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited October 2011
    Interesting. What cables did you find to work well with your amps in mono?

    Any 'regular' cables without electronics are okay. I was using Omega-Mikro Planar V and was happy, but I wanted to complement the ICs. Anyway, I recently went with the Shunyata Anaconda, and they took it to another level. After I get my new speakers, I think I am going to upgrade the ICs to the Anaconda line. Then you might see me selling my S1.3 ICs, or maybe not. :biggrin:

    http://www.omegamikro.com/Speaker_Cable_V.html
    http://www.musicdirect.com/p-40327-shunyata-anaconda-speaker-cables-pr.aspx
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Dawgfish
    Dawgfish Posts: 2,554
    edited October 2011
    It looks like the overwhelming concensus is for the speaker cables first. Thanks to all. I'm looking forward to trying these out. I will be looking at some S1s also as one suggested. I know myself and realize there's a good chance that if I really like the S3s, which sounds highly likely, I will soon be wondering about the S1s. The saga continues.........
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    I own both the S3's and S1's and the 3's will give you everything you need or could ever want IMO!! If you can spring for the 1's or find a great deal on them grab them!!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited October 2011
    Go with the speaker cables first. Not sure there is enough of an audible difference vs. the cost difference between S1, S2 or S3. Always go for the higher model if it's affordable or you get a good deal, but don't pass on a good deal for a pair of S3's and go without because you want S1's. I got a killer deal on my S3's, well I think so anyway and they are practically brand new. Can't tell the difference.

    Then as Carl suggested, go with the I/C between your source and pre-amp and then between your pre and amp. Also be aware using an entire Shotgun series for all cables seems to work really well. I don't think my MIT Terminator 2's played well with the MIT Shotgun I/C's. Not that there is a glaring issue, but after listening for awhile it just seemed a little out of balance, etc.

    I say go for it

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited October 2011
    Agon has a guy (dealer) selling S3's new in box for half price.If i hadn't gotten the 3.3's local for a deal i would have been all over the ones listed.
    Also has whatever you want-8ft,10ft,bi-wire,no bi-wire.
    So your next post should be telling us which one you bought right dawg?
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

    I’M OFFENDED!!!!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited October 2011
    brgman wrote: »
    Agon has a guy (dealer) selling S3's new in box for half price.If i hadn't gotten the 3.3's local for a deal i would have been all over the ones listed.
    Also has whatever you want-8ft,10ft,bi-wire,no bi-wire.
    So your next post should be telling us which one you bought right dawg?

    That's our friend Joe Abrams at Equus Audio. If one is buying new MIT's he's the person to contact directly. You might get a better deal than his AGN listings, but that is a killer deal. Until I scooped up my S3's I was going to buy those.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited October 2011
    All this talk just makes me want them more. Better buy a lotto ticket today.
  • Dawgfish
    Dawgfish Posts: 2,554
    edited October 2011
    Yeah I was looking at one of Joe's ads on Audiogon for a 8ft bi-wire pair of S3s. H9, I will give Joe a call, tell him y'all sent me, and see If I can do any better. I can't wait to tell y'all what I got and how they sound. Thanks again.
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited October 2011
    Dawgfish wrote: »
    Yeah I was looking at one of Joe's ads on Audiogon for a 8ft bi-wire pair of S3s. H9, I will give Joe a call, tell him y'all sent me, and see If I can do any better. I can't wait to tell y'all what I got and how they sound. Thanks again.

    I doubt he will do better than the current 1/2 off prices on Audiogon, but it never hurts to ask. Those are a real killer deal right now.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • toucanet
    toucanet Posts: 580
    edited October 2011
    Question:

    It seems like the shortest speaker cable (S3 line) is 8 feet long. What is the recommended way to lay out the speaker cable if your distance from the amp to each speaker is less than 5 feet?
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
  • toucanet
    toucanet Posts: 580
    edited October 2011
    Should I use E-Z Wider Duct Tape?:biggrin:

    J/K

    For some reason, I was under the impression that rolling up (coiling) speaker cable was not recommended.

    Thanks for the tip Larry.
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited October 2011
    toucanet wrote: »
    Question:

    It seems like the shortest speaker cable (S3 line) is 8 feet long. What is the recommended way to lay out the speaker cable if your distance from the amp to each speaker is less than 5 feet?
    Roll it up!!

    Don't ever roll it. If you coil or roll it it turns into an inductor. The shortest length they sell is 8', I just let it lay (lengthwise) behind my long stand/table, etc. With MIT they have the huge network boxes on the speaker end and CVT termination on the amp end so that 8' gets eaten up real fast. I have about 3 feet distance to each speaker and I couldn't imagine using anything much shorter, by the time you position it properly and the lenght is all used up.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited October 2011
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Don't ever roll it. If you coil or roll it it turns into an inductor.

    Is this also true for CL2 in wall rated cable (Audioquest FLX 14/4)? I ask because I have 11 foot runs for my fronts but dont need nearly that much, so I coiled them up.....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    I was kidding guys!!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited October 2011
    Let's see if I can explain this. I let it lay horizontally behind my long table. The left cable actually passed by the left terminal on the amp and then I gently arch it back on itself. I do the same for the right cable and the right terminal. The way the cables are positoned they actually have to criss cross each other once before they reach the amp terminals, and I try to keep the point of crossing at 90*, which is the best. Don't run cables parallel with power cords and try to minimize any other cables running parallel to each other if possible. It is most important however to keep power cords and other lower level cables (speaker and i/c) from running parallel to each other unless they are seperated by atleast 6" or more.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    So the insulation is for not?? I don't coil mine but I would think the insulation would help some!!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited October 2011
    Is this also true for CL2 in wall rated cable (Audioquest FLX 14/4)? I ask because I have 11 foot runs for my fronts but dont need nearly that much, so I coiled them up.....

    Yes, any cable that is energized and coiled is essentially an inductor in theory. As to whether you can actually hear a difference, who knows. The rule of thumb is to avoid doing this, but as we all know sometimes based on space, etc it's not entirely possible. My suggestion is for the best possible scenario.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited October 2011
    So the insulation is for not?? I don't coil mine but I would think the insulation would help some!!

    Insulation is to prevent shorts, either to the adjacent conductor, or to something else metallic. Insulation is also a dielectric, which can somehow cause distortion. MIT and others try to minimize the dielectric effect. Insulation appears to be a "Damned if you do, and damned if you don't" thing. :wink:


    Interestingly, ieSpell gives this as the choice for TOOLFORLIFEFAN; "DEVOLVING". :biggrin:
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited October 2011
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Let's see if I can explain this. I let it lay horizontally behind my long table. The left cable actually passed by the left terminal on the amp and then I gently arch it back on itself. I do the same for the right cable and the right terminal. The way the cables are positoned they actually have to criss cross each other once before they reach the amp terminals, and I try to keep the point of crossing at 90*, which is the best. Don't run cables parallel with power cords and try to minimize any other cables running parallel to each other if possible. It is most important however to keep power cords and other lower level cables (speaker and i/c) from running parallel to each other unless they are seperated by atleast 6" or more.

    H9

    I know generally you learn something everyday but that is HUGE... I have A LOT of cable management to do then cause everything is coiled up all neatly. Including an extension cord under my TV stand that runs next to my left channel wire... Hmm...
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2011
    I think one has to do what one has to do and not over think it.. But over thinking is what us tweekers do!!! HAHA!!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited October 2011
    Drenis wrote: »
    I know generally you learn something everyday but that is HUGE... I have A LOT of cable management to do then cause everything is coiled up all neatly. Including an extension cord under my TV stand that runs next to my left channel wire... Hmm...

    Again, best practices and best scenario is to follow the guidelines I suggested, but we all know in real life, in a real room it's not always 100% possible. If you can work on it and make it better, then that's what counts. I have wire management issues just like everyone else, but I try to minimize the issues I discussed the best I can.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!