Help: Upgrading my System. (Adding a new MM12)
Systems
Posts: 14,873
Y'all,
I just got my self another Polk Momo MM12.
The question is, what should I do now?
Right now, I have JL amp 500/5
2x100 goes to the front component.
2x25 goes to the rear fill
250x1 goes to Polk Momo Sub MM12.
Polk Momo MM12 RMS rating is 500 watts (1000 max)
Should I get another 250x1 mono amp? (So that I have 2x250 going to each sub)
Or
Should I get another 500x1 mono amp and bridged the two subwoofer? (Is it ok/safe to use 1000x1 instead 500x1)?
How do I connect the two subwoofers if I use the 500x1 or 1000x1
Thanks y'all for your input.
I just got my self another Polk Momo MM12.
The question is, what should I do now?
Right now, I have JL amp 500/5
2x100 goes to the front component.
2x25 goes to the rear fill
250x1 goes to Polk Momo Sub MM12.
Polk Momo MM12 RMS rating is 500 watts (1000 max)
Should I get another 250x1 mono amp? (So that I have 2x250 going to each sub)
Or
Should I get another 500x1 mono amp and bridged the two subwoofer? (Is it ok/safe to use 1000x1 instead 500x1)?
How do I connect the two subwoofers if I use the 500x1 or 1000x1
Thanks y'all for your input.
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Post edited by Unknown User on
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get rid of your JL amp
get an amp rated at 1000x1 @2ohms
rockford fosgate
mtx
hifonics
something of that sort
JL=crap
-CodyTesting
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I have to disagree on the crap comment and say decent equipment, VERY overpriced."The Big C"
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well the JL coax / components / and subwoofers are crap.
the amps are just overpriced... but given them at a reasonable cost i'd prolly use them. i'm not fond of regulated outputs on subwoofer amps, but i'd use em.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
I've owned a pair of 8 and 10w0's. I like them because you could slap 125 watts on them and get a good amount of thump. I think the rest of them are crap... w3, w6, w7. Still pisses me off that the guys who beat me at the DB drag were running JL 12w3's. :mad:"The Big C"
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Have u guys use e-bay?
Everything is overprice when comes to retail pricing.
Im thinkin to get Hifonics but got mixed review.
Some people never heard, I found one review says it sux.
http://www.epinions.com/elec-review-280A-4F237B16-3A50D76D-prod6
Others are swear by it.
Anyone have hifonics care to share?
o/w im gonna look into RF or MTX.
PS: Aggies gonna play the Hokies 2nite.
Thanks.Testing
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dude you're taking advice from a guy who used Eclipse amps and JL subs, not someone i'd swear by as an expert... Hifonics is one of the better brands and personally i'd take a hifonics over an equally rated (power wise) MTX or RF cause the Hifonics will give you cleaner power and better sound on average.
just mhoHemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax. -
Um, dude who wrote the review has no clue what he is talking about or doing for that matter. Don't listen to him.
First off, check some specs on the Hifonics you are interested in vs. some of the ones he recommends. The Hifonics is better on paper and in reality.
I'm running a Hifonics Zeus Z700 5 channel in my girlfriend's car and it works spectacularly! Sounds great, is very efficient and I haven't heard it clip yet. Top notch stuff. I have had previous experience with older Hifonics amps. I had a friend who had an Eagle and a Hawk Hifonics amplifiers. They were incredible for small stereo amplifiers.
The Hifonics will give alot of solid bang for your buck. Defintly one of my first choices if I can swing it.
He is also off on the California Series amps from Profile. My experience with them has been that they are rock solid performers for thier price point. They are stone cold reliable and exceptionally clean compared to other amplifiers in thier class and at thier price point. Defintly a good bang for your buck bargain if you are on a tight budget. I'd still take the Hifonics overthe Profile if I had a choice but that doesn't mean Profile is junk.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I thinking to use HiFonics Brutus BX1000D to power 2 x MM12.
RMS Power: 700W x 1 @ 2 ohms
Is $250 shipped a good deal?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3046345027
Also one guy said that:
Well it looks like it only has one 60 amp fuse, which isn't enough for a 1000 watt amp.
Is that ok?
Also how abt Alpine or Soundstream?Testing
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i think that amp is rated at 1000watts by 1 @ 2 ohms if im not mistaken...not 700
a typical 1000 watt amp takes a 100 watt fuse
but look on their website and itll tell you
-CodyTesting
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You know, I really hate this. Who the hell is going by fuse amperage ratings to verify power output?
You can tell them that I said they are morons!
There is a good deal more info that goes into determining power ratings of amplifiers. The fuse rating doesn't mean jack squat in that department. The only thing the fuse rating is important for is to know how much of a MAXIMUM current draw your amp will put on your charging system.
Just because one amp has a lower fuse rating than an equally powered amp doesn't mean the lower rated amp isn't producing the rated power. Power supplies are an integral part of how those fuse ratings are determined. Some are more efficient than others and require less power to produce the same results. The quality of the transformers, capacitors and other electrical components have a part in determining output strength also.
I'd really like to know who is filling your head with so much misinformation? But you seem pretty much dead set on Hifonics being junk so don't bother. Find something else to spend your money on.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
Yo... take it easy dude...
I go to this forum to learn more abt car audio,
since I am not really satisfied w/ my current setup.
It's good system but I know I need more bass. (Yeah!)
I have never heard abt. Hifonics so it's normal for being skeptic.
I dont mind to spend a bit more but to ensure the quality is there.
since once I set it up, I dont want to mess w/ it anymore.
I just want to drive and enjoy the sound system.
So I asked around.
PS: Here is some pics of my ride.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/happy_aggies
Any more inputs are greatly appreciated.Testing
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Case and point about fuse ratings...
I was at Best Buy today and noticed the Kenwood 8101D has a 40 amp fuse. If I'm not mistaken... that amp will put out 800 watts RMS @ 2 ohm. I could be wrong on that though.
I don't have time to search for ya right now, but I actually found a few of the Brutus BX1500D's on Ebay for around 265. Pay 20 ish for shipping and for $35 more you'd have an extra 500 watts at your disposal. Just a suggestion."The Big C" -
C-Man,
Brutus BX1500D will blow my MM12, too much watt.Testing
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Actually, with the BX1500D you'd get 500 watts at 4 ohms, 1000 watts at 2 ohms, and 1500 at 1 ohm. So if you have 1 MM12 you'll get 500 watts and if you have two you'll get 1000 watts from the amp. It would work out very well for you. 500 watts per sub is pretty good."The Big C"
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i'm glad i didn't get too deep into this post.
"too much watt"
I'm goin to sleep.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
Gosh.... thx for ur comment.
At least my ride aint Dodge...
ha...ha...
C-Man,
I have 2 MM12 so I figure it wouldnt be optimum since the MM12 RMS is 500 watts.
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i'm glad i didn't get too deep into this post.
"too much watt"
I'm goin to sleep.Testing
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lesson # 1...
don't insult PBD, he knows more about car audio than you could ever hope to learn and knows more than most of us here as well.
lesson # 2...
don't believe everything you read in a review or hear from some dude (especially if he works at a car audio shop and is trying to sell you something, i know from experience selling car audio that we bend the truth as much as possible to get the sale)
lesson # 3...
well more of a question, do the 4 hot chicks in the last pic on that site come with the car?? if so i'm getting one. (dumped my gf about a week ago and i need to get laid...)Hemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax. -
why'd you break up with her?
... and how's this for ironic -- its easier to get laid when you're in a relationship (just by coincidence, not by any actual circumstance) than it is when you're single... its the most messed up issue of my life.
i'm single -- no women -- i'm dating somebody and everything with long hair and a high pitched voice starts crawlin outa the woodwork.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
Sup Y'all,
I came to this forum to get educated and learn abt car audio,
instead of being mocked abt my newbieness.
PBD may know a lot abt car audio, but making fool of other person is not appropriate.
FYI:
I got my input/review from other forum, not from some dude.
So do y'all think Brutus BX1500D (1000 watts @ 2ohm) will be safe for 2 (two) MM12 rated at 500 watts (rms) each?
Lastly,
If you come to(Import Expo) Houston this coming weekend, Sept 27.
You will meet those Ikon Hunnies.
http://www.importexposhow.comTesting
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the bx1500d is "mateable" to the subs, however, i think you ought try to get an amp that is geared for a 2 ohm load and as such will put out more power into a 2 ohm load.
for example...
mtx 81000d / 1501D (299 ebay for the 81000D doing 1500 x 1 at 2 ohms - 750 per sub)
RF 1000.1bd
even a JBL BP1200.1 (which by the way is DIRT CHEAP at 200 bucks ebay for a 1200 watt amp.
I've got nothing against hifonics at all... were that amp doing 1200 - 1500 x 1 at 2 ohms, then i'd say go for it, but its not...
alpine also has a 1000 watt @ 2 ohm class D out now... i've no idea what it costs, but for those who like alpine and alpine-type amps, its not a bad purchase by any stretch of the imagination.
however if u're dead set on the hifonics bx1500d -- then go for it -- worst case scenario you can add anther momo sub and still get like 450 watts per sub.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
well pbd i droped my girl cause she was a psychotic **** who tried in every way shape and form to controll me... she was incredible selfconscious and insecure (way more than any girl i've ever met) and she drove me crazy and made almost 2 years of my life miserable... if the sex hadn't been pretty dang good i woulda left long ago. however on the brighter side there are 2 cute chicks in one of my psych classes that i've noticed checking me out... both short (that's how i like em being 5'6" myself, the shorter the better) one skinny (not too skinny but just right skinny) and the other has some killer curves... still trying to decide which one to go for... i'm leaning toward curves...
i realy need to get a ricer and customize it... either that or a mini-truck, those dudes get all the chicks...Hemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax. -
Let me first preface this all by saying I'm a complete car audio noob.
How long should it take to break in my new sub? It's hooked up to a MTX 202 amp that puts out 200 watts.
Also, man, I don't know how I've gone this long without a sub, I don't listen to much rap or heavy techno, but the quality of sound that a sub adds when playing rock music is incredible.
Matt -
most people definately undervalue the way a sub sounds till they've actually had one cause all they now is that annoying rattling buzzing sound coming from the car next to them...
about breaking it in let us know what sub you have and that will help with the adviceHemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax. -
It's in the title MM1224. The new ones.
Matt -
the old mm120s had to be broken in for 40 hours...I have not heard ANYTHING AT ALL about breaking in the newer subs...but ideally--20 hours at least...im not sure how stiff a suspension they have...but if theyre anything like the old ones...id do 40 to be safe...i cracked the spyder on mine b/c i didnt break them in right...40 hours might seem like forever...but if theyre broken in correctly...theyll last a very long time
-Cody -
... eh if u're only gonna throw 200 on it -- a week to 10 days of "half volume or less" outa be sufficient.
and dude -- go for the curves... twiggy girls annoy me... however women with all the right lines --- hell they're like nice cars
and actually - get a pickup -- i've had about 15 women comment on "i love you truck, i absolutely love your truck" since i got it... hoey chicks dig rice... but the ones you really wanna drop the knob on dig trucks... i imagine our dear friend john has probably had half of jersey in the back of the lightningThe Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
Dude....
Get a Bimmer... that's one hella outta chick magnet....'99 Autumn Red Solara SE Auto S/C 1MZ-FE w/ JIC Exhaust
http://www.cardomain.com/id/happy_aggies -
'99 Autumn Red Solara SE Auto S/C 1MZ-FE w/ JIC Exhaust
http://www.cardomain.com/id/happy_aggies -
pbd can let you know better than i can but i don't know how well that amp would do bridged to a 2ohm load at 1ch and i doubt the 1500 is rms which is what you would want...
if you're going usamps for 1000w and are running 2 svc subs i'd go with the USA-1000 which will give you a clean 1000w at 2ohms.
I just emailed usamps tech support to ask them about the 2ohm issue for that amp so hopefully i'll know soonHemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax.