How do I determine polarity on . . .

drumminman
drumminman Posts: 3,396
edited July 2011 in Vintage Speakers
a new MW6510 replacement MW I just received. :confused:

No markings at all. Should I assume that + is on the same side as the one I'm replacing? Is there some way to check this with a DMM?

As has been discussed here, I'll have to trim the rubber surround around the screw holes as well. Date of Manufacture is 11-26-2007.

Thanks!
"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
Post edited by drumminman on

Comments

  • geoff727
    geoff727 Posts: 546
    edited July 2011
    With a couple of leads, hook up both ends of a 1V battery to the speaker. When the speaker moves forward (and stays there, this is a DC current), then you have hooked up to the + terminal of the battery to the + terminal of the speaker .

    G~
    Polk SDA SRS 2
    Polk RTA 15tl
    Polk Monitor 7C
    Polk Lsi9

    Infinity RS-II (modded)
    Infinity RS-IIIa (modded)
    Infinity RS 2.5 x 2

    Magnepan 1.6QR (modded)

    System: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1290711373
  • decal
    decal Posts: 3,205
    edited July 2011
    ^^^^ Ditto ^^^^
    If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money.
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited July 2011
    geoff727 wrote: »
    With a couple of leads, hook up both ends of a 1V battery to the speaker. When the speaker moves forward (and stays there, this is a DC current), then you have hooked up to the + terminal of the battery to the + terminal of the speaker .

    G~

    I'll try that.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited July 2011
    I had a 50% chance of getting the polarity right by guessing which was positive - I guessed wrong :tongue:

    So simple: hooking up with the battery leads one way made the woofer move in; reversing the leads on the battery made it move out and stay there.

    Thanks for that!
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • geoff727
    geoff727 Posts: 546
    edited July 2011
    drumminman wrote: »
    Thanks for that!

    You bet. :smile:
    Polk SDA SRS 2
    Polk RTA 15tl
    Polk Monitor 7C
    Polk Lsi9

    Infinity RS-II (modded)
    Infinity RS-IIIa (modded)
    Infinity RS 2.5 x 2

    Magnepan 1.6QR (modded)

    System: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1290711373
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    Is there a way to check the whole speaker cabinet at once?
    Another words: Can I hook up a battery to the speaker cable posts and watch all the drivers at the same time?
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    machone wrote: »
    Is there a way to check the whole speaker cabinet at once?
    Another words: Can I hook up a battery to the speaker cable posts and watch all the drivers at the same time?

    Yep.
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    Thanks vmaxer. Just a standard 1.5v battery?
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    That should work, I have done it on my SDA's. I don't leave it connected long as I don't know what the tweeters can take?
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    thanks vmaxer
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 2,507
    vmaxer wrote: »
    That should work, I have done it on my SDA's. I don't leave it connected long as I don't know what the tweeters can take?

    Vmax -

    A 1.5v battery into an 8 ohm driver (or tweeter, for that matter), is only a hair over 1/4 watt (.28). Even at DC, not enough to hurt your tweeter:-)

    "Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow


    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn

  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    Good to know. Thanks.
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • I used a 9 volt battery for a very brief check of my 1.2tl's as 1.5 volts didn't move all those drivers enough for me to see. Sure enough there were 2 drivers in the left speaker wired out of phase. What a difference that made once that was taken care of.
    Capacitors don't allow dc to pass so your tweeters are safe
  • This was a very interesting question because I had the same thing happen on my replacement 6502 for my M7s. No red dot or marker of any kind. I did not test and either guessed right or followed the beat driver's dot placement. Now I know better and now to test w/ a battery. I also have a 9v set up w/ cap and leads ready to go. If a machine lays down the surrounds why can't they trim it better to begin with ? If hand laid then for sure it should be trimmed. Polk must have gotten some complaints from unsuspecting folks that just put in their drivers and the screws ripped the crap out of the rubber surrounds.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • Msabot1
    Msabot1 Posts: 2,098
    I used a 9 volt battery for a very brief check of my 1.2tl's as 1.5 volts didn't move all those drivers enough for me to see. Sure enough there were 2 drivers in the left speaker wired out of phase. What a difference that made once that was taken care of.
    Capacitors don't allow dc to pass so your tweeters are safe

    Caps act as an AC block...
  • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor

    Caps act as an AC block...[/quote]

    5th paragraph down if you'd like to skip through quickly.

  • GlennDog
    GlennDog Posts: 3,120
    Please excuse my lack of electrical knowledge . . .
    To test the entire speaker, connect small 1.5 or 9 volt battery to the speaker binding posts and if in correct phase, all woofers move outward, correct?

    AC Regenerator PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Source Lumin U1 Mini into Lampizator Baltic 4 DAC
    Pre Cary SLP-05
    Power Rogue M180 Dark monos
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Rythmik F12
  • That's correct GlennDog. I used a pair of wires so I could stand in front of the speaker and touch the ends of the battery very briefly. You want the battery on there just long enough to verify
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,510
    I checked both speakers. The two woofers and the stereo driver are in correct phase. How do I confirm that the sda drivers are correctly phased? I did not see much movement with the battery test.
    Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
    1KVA Dreadnought

    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
    Sony PS4

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"