Spiking SDA-2B's
Comments
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Thirty to fifty bucks for "economy" spikes? Woof.
Six tee nuts or six hurricane nuts, six plain hex nuts, six 1/4-20 grade 8 bolts about an inch and a quarter long. Longer if you want, won't hurt anything but I think it looks goofy. Might cost five dollars, but probably less. I suppose you could buy brass nuts and brass bolts, but I don't understand why you'd want to. Similarly, you could buy 5/16 or 3/8 hardware, but again, I don't see that it's needed.
Take a hack saw and cut the heads off the bolts. Sharpen the cut end to a point on a bench grinder. If you spin the bolt by chucking it in a drill motor, and then hold the spinning bolt to the grinding wheel, you'll grind nice 'n' round.
Install three tee/hurricane nuts in each speaker base, thread in the pointed bolts, secure 'em with a jam nut. Level the speaker as needed. Four spikes (8 total) is harder to level, but otherwise works fine. -
That is a shame!!! Maybe it's time for me to fill that void if needed..
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The t-nuts need to be mounted from the inside of the cabinet, so you need to drill all the way through. If you just stick them in the base as suggested, they will easily fall out whenever you move the cabinets.
No disrespect Will, but is this what you did on your 2B's inspiredsports? I thought the adding of glue would help the t-nuts from falling out of the bottom. -
T-Nuts need to be on the outside of the speaker not the inside..
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TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »T-Nuts need to be on the outside of the speaker not the inside..
Why? I've always put the flange on the inside. That way when you tighten the spikes to the botton, it secures the t-nut, and it can't pull out. I've seen them rip out when installed with the flange on the outside, on heavy speakers. -
Why? I've always put the flange on the inside. That way when you tighten the spikes to the bottom, it secures the t-nut, and it can't pull out. I've seen them rip out when installed with the flange on the outside, on heavy speakers.
I also put the t-nut inside and let the bolt come through.
Why is this wrong it seems the only way to secure them. -
Why? I've always put the flange on the inside. That way when you tighten the spikes to the botton, it secures the t-nut, and it can't pull out. I've seen them rip out when installed with the flange on the outside, on heavy speakers.
But what if the floor is uneven? How would you adjust for this because any slack would force the t-nut out.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »But what if the floor is uneven? How would you adjust for this because any slack would force the t-nut out.
I suppose it depends on the spikes. Mine had adjustable tips, separate from the base. Similar to the ones from parts express linked above. -
I'm not a fan of the PE spikes due to the finish cracking and tips breaking off as Face mentioned previously. Any type of spike achieves the effect, even the stock ones that come with Polk speakers.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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i've had my PE spikes on for abt a year and a half...they get moved back and forth on an uneven tile surface...i have no chips or breaks at all...i am now knocking on my wood desk, of course...the 2b's at 80lbs, might be ok with the PE spikes...maybe the heavier beasts are rougher to them...YMMV
mike -
i've had my PE spikes on for abt a year and a half...they get moved back and forth on an uneven tile surface...i have no chips or breaks at all
I've bought several sets all chrome and all still have their finish, but i do not move them all over the house either. The sets with adjustable feet i put a flat washer between the foot and the base of the spike to make up the difference you cannot see it once in place and use blue thread lock.
some of the sets i have had for 10+ yrsmichaeljhsda2 wrote: »But what if the floor is uneven? How would you adjust for this because any slack would force the t-nut out.
on the one set i did use the T-nuts i put them inside the cabinet. i used a thin flat washers between the cabinet and the spike you also could not see the washer sort of blended right in.
i also have carpet in all areas -
If you need to level your speakers the t-nuts on the inside are not going to work with most spikes, and if they are coming out then they are installed wrong. I have yet to have an issue with my spikes and/or t-nuts..
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Thirty to fifty bucks for "economy" spikes? Woof.
Six tee nuts or six hurricane nuts, six plain hex nuts, six 1/4-20 grade 8 bolts about an inch and a quarter long. Longer if you want, won't hurt anything but I think it looks goofy. Might cost five dollars, but probably less. I suppose you could buy brass nuts and brass bolts, but I don't understand why you'd want to. Similarly, you could buy 5/16 or 3/8 hardware, but again, I don't see that it's needed.
Take a hack saw and cut the heads off the bolts. Sharpen the cut end to a point on a bench grinder. If you spin the bolt by chucking it in a drill motor, and then hold the spinning bolt to the grinding wheel, you'll grind nice 'n' round.
Install three tee/hurricane nuts in each speaker base, thread in the pointed bolts, secure 'em with a jam nut. Level the speaker as needed. Four spikes (8 total) is harder to level, but otherwise works fine.
Why stop there, one could just slap some cheap PE drivers into a plywood box and save a lot of money.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I've never heard of anyone putting T-nuts inside before. That's got to be tough trying to drive them in with a hammer. What about the thickness of the base? It seems to me that most spikes do not have very long threads.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Does anybody else have recommendations for spike pads? Specifically gold ones?
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I've never heard of anyone putting T-nuts inside before. That's got to be tough trying to drive them in with a hammer. What about the thickness of the base? It seems to me that most spikes do not have very long threads.
Plus it seems like if you put them inside they could potentially come out due to heavy weight speakers. Putting them inside seems like a bad idea.
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Once the spikes are tightened, they won't come out if mounted inside. One of my pairs are secured that way, and in fact I prefer that method as the speakers seem more stable with no wobble whatsoever."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Once the spikes are tightened, they won't come out if mounted inside. One of my pairs are secured that way, and in fact I prefer that method as the speakers seem more stable with no wobble whatsoever.
Makes sense. Guess I did not think of it like that. -
Who needs spikes, just get some nylon tipped levelers and......... BTW, there used to be tee nuts that had flat flanges with small holes for screws instead of the usual formed spikes to hold them on/in. Hotttt dammmmmn, found em!:biggrin: The ones at the top of the picture are they.
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Here's more: http://www.rockler.com/search_results.cfm?srch=usr&filter=threaded+insert&submit.x=0&submit.y=0"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »That is a shame!!! Maybe it's time for me to fill that void if needed..
If you decide to fill the void please let me know, I'd be after 8 spikes and pads for my 1.2 TL's
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I have the Parts express spikes and I ordered some M6 bolts and through bolted them in my 2B's. The t-nuts just did not do it for me. Through bolting IMHO is akin to Larry's rings but for spikes. It made a noticeable difference in the bass and focus of the speaker. I also used 3 for each speaker instead of 4. They may not be the best spikes available but I am pleased with the result I got for the money spent.
ScottI like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D -
I've never heard of anyone putting T-nuts inside before. That's got to be tough trying to drive them in with a hammer. What about the thickness of the base? It seems to me that most spikes do not have very long threads.
Why use a hammer? drill a hole in a scrap piece of wood use a washer and a bolt to pull the T-nut into the cabinet. easy peasy -
So the spikes came in way earlier than expect. I'm going to do the install tomorrow.
They look fantastic. Nice and heavy, they seem to be a real value.
Problem is, I don't know what to do with all of the pieces! What may seem obvious to many apparently isn't to me, lol.
In this photo all of the parts you see go to ONE spike. This has me confused.
One of the circle pieces is a pad (or so I think) and the other circle piece doesn't thread all the way through, so what's it for?
I'm assuming it goes t-nut > threaded rod > spike > pad, but that leaves out the circle piece to the right. What to do?
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Eye Candy
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TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »That is a shame!!! Maybe it's time for me to fill that void if needed..
That would be very nice of you Larry.
Greg
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
Why use a hammer? drill a hole in a scrap piece of wood use a washer and a bolt to pull the T-nut into the cabinet. easy peasy
Or that.
I don't know, I've never had a T-nut pull out, but then again I've got a big hammer.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Or that.
I don't know, I've never had a T-nut pull out, but then again I've got a big hammer.
That's what she said!!! -
TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »That's what she said!!!
That joke doesn't work with the comment you're referring to. You must be old. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »That joke doesn't work with the comment you're referring to. You must be old.
It most certainly can work.......if the "she" is a she in title only.:eek: Ever heard "Lola" ?? It's a "mixed up" world !!
You must be young and naive.
