Spiking SDA-2B's

audiocr381ve

I need some help spiking my 2B's. I don't want to spend a ton of money so I think the Myesound spikes are out although I might try the pads if I can't find an alternative.

Links would be super helpful too. I don't have much talent when it comes to these types of things so if you wouldn't mind being specific that would be great.

I want to do Larry's rings but I'm afraid to ask him because the guy (along with many others) hates me!

Thanks guys.

PS. Are these plastic feet stock or did the original owner put them on? All of them seem to be cracked.

inspiredsports

These are the best economy speaker spikes I've found, (composite instead of 100% brass) with hardened steel studs and brass spike tips and available in black or gold.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001FAAE28/websitementcommu
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001AV42NE/websitementcommu

You'll need to drill the proper size hole where your plastic glides are currently tacked on and install 1/4-20 tee nuts in the base of your SDA's for the studs to screw into.

Some argue that all brass is better sonically, but even with all brass there is still a steel/brass interface where the threaded brass screws into the steel tee nut on the cabinet base so my belief is these are every bit as good for half the price.

heiney9

Thought these were sold????

I will be spiking my 1C's this fall/winter and I don't want to spend the money on MYE spikes either.

Probably going with these from Dedicated Audio website

http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/2571/5591

audiocr381ve

inspiredsports wrote: »

These are the best economy speaker spikes I've found, (composite instead of 100% brass) with hardened steel studs and brass spike tips and available in black or gold.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001FAAE28/websitementcommu
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001AV42NE/websitementcommu

You'll need to drill the proper size hole where your plastic glides are currently tacked on and install 1/4-20 tee nuts in the base of your SDA's for the studs to screw into.

Thanks brotha. I just ordered the gold.

How the hell do I install these things?

intangible

I used the ones Heiney linked to. They're pointy - they work. Easy to install and adjust, the floor pads work well (maybe a little too well, I had to pry them off the floor with a knife when I wanted to move the speakers), and they stand up to heft of the cabinets. They are cheaper at Parts Express pending shipping.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-715

audiocr381ve

heiney9 wrote: »

Thought these were sold????

I will be spiking my 1C's this fall/winter and I don't want to spend the money on MYE spikes either.

Probably going with these from Dedicated Audio website

http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/2571/5591

No, the Emotiva amp sold. I still have the 2B's.

Thanks for the reco. I like the look of the gold spikes. Nice and classy and kind of accents the Polk logo.

heiney9

audiocr381ve wrote: »

No, the Emotiva amp sold. I still have the 2B's.

Thanks for the reco. I like the look of the gold spikes. Nice and classy and kind of accents the Polk logo.

They make them in Gold too at Dedicated Audio. If you already ordered the other ones Inspired listed those will work too, although I don't see exactly how you install them. I assume they come with the proper size t-nuts.

Hate is a strong word, I don't hate. Some of your posts and logic has certainly been annoying and tried my patience. No hate here.

H9

audiocr381ve

Brock, the Onix SP3 integrated comes in tomorrow. Knowing absolutely nothing about tubes, I wanted to get your opinion on the tubes the seller is sending.

4x TUNG SOL 5881
2x Electro Harmonix 6922
2X Tesla JJ 12AX7
2X Tesla JJ 12AU7

Are these gonna do me any good?

audiocr381ve

heiney9 wrote: »

They make them in Gold too at Dedicated Audio. If you already ordered the other ones Inspired listed those will work too, although I don't see exactly how you install them. I assume they come with the proper size t-nuts.

Hate is a strong word, I don't hate. Some of your posts and logic has certainly been annoying and tried my patience. No hate here.

H9

The feeling is mutual. No hate, just moments of being annoyed and impatient with you as well

heiney9

They will get you started, but being brutally honest they are simply average tubes. The power tubes might not be to bad for now, but the rest are one step above inexpensive Chinese tubes.

I understand you aren't loaded with cash, so just listen for awhile and then look at replacing atleast the driver tubes. I ain't going to be cheap, but you shouldn't have to mortgage the house.

H9

inspiredsports

You can buy these in any hardware store or home center, this is just a sample link to see what it is: http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SSN-2520/14-20-Stainless-Steel-Tee-Nuts

Gently pry off the existing glides on the bottom of your 2B's and drill a 5/16" hole using the hole left from the tack in the glide as a pilot hole. Gently tap the tee nut into the 5/16" hole you drill with a hammer. You could use a dab of glue between the flange of the tee nut and cabinet base if you like, but don't get it inside of the tee nut on the threads.

audiocr381ve

heiney9 wrote: »

They will get you started, but being brutally honest they are simply average tubes. The power tubes might not be to bad for now, but the rest are one step above inexpensive Chinese tubes.

I understand you aren't loaded with cash, so just listen for awhile and then look at replacing atleast the driver tubes. I ain't going to be cheap, but you shouldn't have to mortgage the house.

H9

Right on, good to know. Definitely going to listen for awhile. I'm really pulling back the reigns on this hobby and slowing down a bit for now with school starting and work getting busy. I do want to finish off the mods on the 2B's.

audiocr381ve

inspiredsports wrote: »

You can buy these in any hardware store or home center, this is just a sample link to see what it is: http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SSN-2520/14-20-Stainless-Steel-Tee-Nuts

Gently pry off the existing glides on the bottom of your 2B's and drill a 5/16" hole using the hole left from the tack in the glide as a pilot hole. Gently tap the tee nut into the 5/16" hole you drill with a hammer. You could use a dab of glue between the flange of the tee nut and cabinet base if you like, but don't get it inside of the tee nut on the threads.

Few dumb questions for you. When you say use the existing hole as a pivot, that means drill the 5/16" hole directly into the hole left from the glide?

When I drill the 5/16" hole, how deep do I drill?

inspiredsports

audiocr381ve wrote: »

Few dumb questions for you. When you say use the existing hole as a pivot, that means drill the 5/16" hole directly into the hole left from the glide?

When I drill the 5/16" hole, how deep do I drill?

It was "pilot" hole, not "pivot"

The link in post #11 shows the barrel length of a 1/4" tee nut as 3/8" so that is as deep as you need to go for the tee nut, but you need to go a bit deeper as the spike studs protrude about 3/4".

There's nothing that will get you in trouble so going in about 1" is fine. You can put a couple turns of tape around your drill bit at 1" as a simple depth guide.

Drilling directly into the hole left by the glide tack is fine unless you feel you want to measure and drill more inboard. As a suggestion, after you remove the glides and before **** the studs into the points, just set the spikes on the base of the cabinet over the tack holes to see how the spacing looks.

Take your time. Use a sharp or new drill bit and be sure to drill perpendicular to the base.

There are also other types of 1/4" nuts with threads on the outside that screw into a larger hole that you drill in the wood base. This type installs flush to the base and they don't have on the 4 sharp points that the tee nuts have. I don't know what this type is called, but they are shown in the center of the photo from the link in post #5.

audiocr381ve

inspiredsports wrote: »

It was "pilot" hole, not "pivot"

The link in post #11 shows the barrel length of a 1/4" tee nut as 3/8" so that is as deep as you need to go for the tee nut, but you need to go a bit deeper as the spike studs protrude about 3/4".

There's nothing that will get you in trouble so going in about 1" is fine. You can put a couple turns of tape around your drill bit at 1" as a simple depth guide.

Drilling directly into the hole left by the glide tack is fine unless you feel you want to measure and drill more inboard. As a suggestion, after you remove the glides and before **** the studs into the points, just set the spikes on the base of the cabinet over the tack holes to see how the spacing looks.

Take your time. Use a sharp or new drill bit and be sure to drill perpendicular to the base.

There are also other types of 1/4" nuts with threads on the outside that screw into a larger hole that you drill in the wood base. This type installs flush to the base and they don't have on the 4 sharp points that the tee nuts have. I don't know what this type is called, but they are shown in the center of the photo from the link in post #5.

Thanks, that's great info. The speakers will be on tile for now so I'll need some pads for the spikes to sit in. Were pads included on these spikes? I can't tell from the product description on Amazon but it does look their are pads in the photo.

F1nut

heiney9 wrote: »

Thought these were sold????

I will be spiking my 1C's this fall/winter and I don't want to spend the money on MYE spikes either.

Probably going with these from Dedicated Audio website

http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/2571/5591

Those are the same ones that Parts Express sells. I installed a set on some 1C's I took to CF for Tom. I cannot recommend them.

heiney9

Could you expand on that Jesse? What about them turned you off? The didn't do their job? They didn't fit correctly? The parts were inconsistent?

Thanks

H9

WilliamM2

audiocr381ve wrote: »

Few dumb questions for you. When you say use the existing hole as a pivot, that means drill the 5/16" hole directly into the hole left from the glide?

When I drill the 5/16" hole, how deep do I drill?

The t-nuts need to be mounted from the inside of the cabinet, so you need to drill all the way through. If you just stick them in the base as suggested, they will easily fall out whenever you move the cabinets.

Joe08867

I would suggest going inboard a bit. Trying to drill out the rear holes where they are will be mighty close to the back wall cabinetry.

dorokusai

Grant @ MyeSound has discontinued selling 1/4-20 spikes for Polk Audio loudspeakers due to no interest. He has to place orders @ a minimum of 100 and it's simply not something he makes that much money off of to continue absorbing the overhead.

I picked up the last three(3) sets he had today. It's a shame since they are far superior in build quality than the cast versions but sonically, in reality, they probably sound the same. I just prefer a better spike and prefer brass instead of steel.

codyc1ark

OP- I don't know if the spikes you ordered will come with pads or not, if they don't the cheepest ones I could find we're from Outlaw audio, I ordered 8 and got them shipped to my door for around $20.00, pretty good deal from what I could find. I know AA offers a set of four that are brass, but I think they are around $30.00/4, maybe more.

pitdogg2

heiney9 wrote: »

Thought these were sold????

I will be spiking my 1C's this fall/winter and I don't want to spend the money on MYE spikes either.

Probably going with these from Dedicated Audio website

http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/2571/5591

yep same ones i use except i just drill a 1/4" hole and attach with a bolt instead of the screw insert.
I get then at PE
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-715

heiney9

pitdogg2 wrote: »

yep same ones i use except i just drill a 1/4" hole and attach with a bolt instead of the screw insert.
I get then at PE
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-715

Jesse said they are inferior, how are they working for you? Have you moved your 1C's around a lot? How they holding up? What improvements did you notice?

H9

Face

I've broken two of those spikes with my 100+lbs Tannoys.

I find they loosen up all the time on my custom speakers. I don't feel like drilling more holes into those cabinets, so I'll probably just use thread lock. :rolleyes:

sda2mike

i got the spikes that parts express sells. i bought mine from a ebay seller, that offered free shipping..adding spikes was one of those upgrades with an immediate improvement..

heiney9

dorokusai wrote: »

Grant @ MyeSound has discontinued selling 1/4-20 spikes for Polk Audio loudspeakers due to no interest. He has to place orders @ a minimum of 100 and it's simply not something he makes that much money off of to continue absorbing the overhead.

I picked up the last three(3) sets he had today. It's a shame since they are far superior in build quality than the cast versions but sonically, in reality, they probably sound the same. I just prefer a better spike and prefer brass instead of steel.

Mark, will other Mye spikes work. I realize if you want plug-n-play to replace factory spikes you need the 1/4-20, but since my 1C's don't even have t-nuts in them yet could another of his spikes work?

I'm looking at all options here to decide.

H9

pitdogg2

heiney9 wrote: »

Jesse said they are inferior, how are they working for you? Have you moved your 1C's around a lot? How they holding up? What improvements did you notice?

H9

Well Brock I do not have 1c's but my SDA1 signatures i have taken off the factory mdf bases and made custom bases from red oak 2x4's on edge drilled completly through the 2x4 and cabinet base inserted a grade 8-1/4"x20 bolt with a fender washer inside the cabinet and tightend down. I did use red thread lock on the bolt but did not on the adjustment part of the spike so i could level my speakers. I have had very good luck with these and have used them several times on many speakers(different spikes). I have not brokem any with the bolt, but have broke the threaded screw they send with them that is why i do not used them. My SDA'a weigh 92lbs. each and yes i matched the stain on the red oak to the walnut veneer on my speakers you'd be able to tell in grain only not by color. I just wanted them a little taller and a stout bottom for the spikes. I would not put these in any of the SDA's that have the 3/4" on edge mdf bases (studio models if you get my drift) solid bases like 2b's and such i could see no problem IMO
Ivan

dorokusai

heiney9 wrote: »

Mark, will other Mye spikes work. I realize if you want plug-n-play to replace factory spikes you need the 1/4-20, but since my 1C's don't even have t-nuts in them yet could another of his spikes work?

I'm looking at all options here to decide.

H9

Sure. I'd pick a larger size thread, M5 maybe.

F1nut

heiney9 wrote: »

Could you expand on that Jesse? What about them turned you off? The didn't do their job? They didn't fit correctly? The parts were inconsistent?

As Face stated, they loosen too easily. The plating also chips/scratches way too easily.

heiney9

F1nut wrote: »

As Face stated, they loosen too easily. The plating also chips/scratches way too easily.

Ok, thanks to both you and Mike for pointing that out.

H9

F1nut

dorokusai wrote: »

Grant @ MyeSound has discontinued selling 1/4-20 spikes for Polk Audio loudspeakers due to no interest.

That's a damn shame.