PSW505 vs PSW650
I currently have a PSW505 and PSW300. There's a PSW650 on the local classifieds for a good deal, but is it any better than the 505 I already have? The original MSRP's suggest it is, but are the two tens with less wattage better than the one 12 with lotsa wattage?
If so, how?
If so, how?
Up
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
Post edited by Inspector 24 on
Comments
Peace
Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology SM450; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor350; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
Master Bedroom
Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology promonitor 800; ACI Titan Subwoofer
Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub
Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250
Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
I've heard lots about it. Just never heard (i.e. listened to) one in person.
I've considered that but I figured I would consult the experts first and maybe save some time. I'd rather not buy and re-sell something if there is nothin to gain
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub
Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250
Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
Must be a pretty good sub if you got two!
And I could see it beating the 404, two tens are definitely better than one, but are the good enough to beat one 12" with more power?
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
Think it would be worthwhile as a 3rd sub? The room is ~800sq feet and I wouldn't mind a little more punch sometimes...
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
"low" to the ear. They'll roll off sooner in other words.
If I were designing a system in terms of driver sizing, it might look something like this: 1" soft dome tweeter (mellow warm highs - personal preference), 3.5" (upper mids), 5.25" (mids), 6.5-7" (mid bass...probably two in a tower), 8" woofers (lower bass..three or four of them), and lastly a good 12-15" sub (for that ultra low slow rumbly HT style bass.
Obviously there's a L-O-T more that goes into design of an exceptional box, and driver size is only one piece of that large puzzle. But it is something to bear in mind. If you can try out the 2 10's, or better yet, grab four 8's...I think you might be happily surprised at the sound. As always, YMMV...
Cheers!
Bri~
Mains: Polk TSx440T
Center: Polk CS10
Surround: Polk TSi300
Sub: Polk PSW110
Video: LG OLED65B6P Panel
BDP: Sony BDP-S6500 Blu-ray player
This is kind of a faulty theory IMO. Driver size doesn't absolutely dictate whether or not a speaker is going to sound punchy or boomy. I've heard plenty of 12's that were very punchy. On the opposite side, I've heard plenty of smaller subs that were what I'd consider boomy and bloated sounding. There's a lot more than driver size to take into consideration. The construction and materials of the driver itself, the cabinet materials and construction, the quality of the amp used, sealed vs. ported designs etc. etc. (You did mention this yourself though as well)
As far as the "quickness" of the driver goes, generally speaking a smaller driver will be faster...but this isn't an absolute truth all the time. As mentioned above, there's a lot more to it than size. The overall excursion of the cone, the weight of the cone and numerous other factors play a big part in this.
Not to mention that I haven't seen too many commercially available subs that utilize four 8's. Regardless, even four 8's aren't going to be able to reach the low bass that larger drivers are capable of reproducing.
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
I stand by my statement (all things being equal) that an 8 or 10 will be perceived as more punchy, as opposed to a 12, 15 or 18. I agree wholeheartedly (and stated as such initially here) that larger drivers will have a lower resonant frequency and will sound "lower" to the hear - again, all other things being equal. With that said, some of the tightest bass I've ever heard was from 6.5" drivers that felt like they were slamming hammers into your kidneys. But "ultra-low"...they were not. To each there own. Best to all!
Bri~
Mains: Polk TSx440T
Center: Polk CS10
Surround: Polk TSi300
Sub: Polk PSW110
Video: LG OLED65B6P Panel
BDP: Sony BDP-S6500 Blu-ray player
Any idea how it might compare to the PSW505?
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
Having spent some time with a 650 (acquired elsewhere) I was unimpressed with the addition it made to the room. It seemed that I needed to have it turned up to 8 or 9 to equal the bass the 505 put out at half volume. Perhaps this is a matter of placement in the room. Though I tried several different spots I couldn't find one where it significantly added something over the 505. That said, I'm considering buying that 505. He's got it listed for $210, thinking of offering $180 if it looks good and works. :cheesygrin:
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
Two Channel
Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
Now off to play. Going to a/b it against the 650 in the same spot I've had the 650 Should be revealing.
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
Regarding the PSW650... It has a very fast bass response but unfortunately, while two 10" drivers have more area than a single 12", the 10" drivers do not go that low. I find that the PSW650 bottoms out at 35-40Hz. So if you are expecting room shaking bass, it ain't gonna happen.
Exactly what I found. The 650 is a more musical sub, easily keeping up with the A9's where the 505 lags behind, calls too much attention to itself and is a poor match. Fortunately the A9's put out all the bass I need for music.
When it came to home theater and some DTS and Dolby HD tracks, the 505 provided the thump, rumble and shaking I like to have watching movies. The first 20 mins of Thor are a great test of the LFE channel, and the second 505 filled in where the 650 simply could not. The impact of Thor's hammer on the Frost Giants could suddenly be FELT in a way I hadn't before. It's as though adding a second 505 doubled the bass response, where the 650 was barely noticeable.
So the 650 got moved upstairs where I'm currently playing with settings to best match it to the RT800i's. Considering we mostly listen to music upstairs, so far it's a much better fit.
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
Two Channel Setup:
Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 2-3
Integrated Amp: Krell S-300i
DAC: Arcam irDac
Source: iMac
Remote Control: iPad Mini
3.2 Home Theater Setup:
Fronts: Klipsch RP-160M
Center: Klipsch RP-160M
Subwoofer: SVS PB12NSD (X 2)
AVR: Yamaha Aventage RX-A2030
Blu Ray: Sony BDP-S790
TV Source: DirecTV Genie
Promo code?? What's the promo code? I would have talked the guy down more had I known that!
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
last I checked they were sold out.
Jut picked up a 505 on the 21st from NEWEGG; getting it set up currently.
marty
Great deal on a pretty dang good sub. It puts out a lot of bass for the money!
And I just picked up a third for upstairs...Came with LSI15's, LSI7's and a LSIc for $370!
LSi15 LSiC - RX-V3000
Down
LSiM707 - 706c - 702f/x - Dual HSU VTF-15H Mk2
Parasound HCA-3500 - HCA-2003A - Marantz SR7005
Sim2 D60 - Dragonfly 106" Panny 500
I'm currently running a PSW650 & a PSW1200! All I have to say is, wow!
I'm going to pick that 505 sub up & put it in the spare bedroom.
Let us know how it worked out for you, I'm really curious about that 505.
FT.
RT5000 x 2
RT2000p
CS400i
CS350-LS
LS F/X
PSW650
PSW1000 w/Dayton SPA1000
DSW MicroPro 4000
Adcom amps
Pioneer Elite SC-89
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable
PS4
XBOX One
MIT Interconnects
BJC
Frank.
RT5000 x 2
RT2000p
CS400i
CS350-LS
LS F/X
PSW650
PSW1000 w/Dayton SPA1000
DSW MicroPro 4000
Adcom amps
Pioneer Elite SC-89
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable
PS4
XBOX One
MIT Interconnects
BJC