Car trouble

JimKellyfan

module is a cheap chance, and especially if it is OE.
remember to put the heat sink compound on the backside.

JimKellyfan

If you have a distributor, it will be there or you will see a space for where it could go.
They eventually moved them away from the heat and on the fire wall.
Some can be even just behind the fire wall too with only the plug visible.

JimKellyfan

Let me know how you make out.
And if you need any further assistance.

bigaudiofanatic

I have the repair manual I can locate it very easily.

More expensive than 60 bucks

http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.jsp?ID=bAi1oFiopEU5_Oy9_CUdHM2FGVBoFdSEMUnQf

sucks2beme

Just because the dash light isn't lit anymore doesn't mean there isn't
a stored code.

bigaudiofanatic

bigaudiofanatic wrote: »

I will try that.

Because they can NOT pull the code if the light is not on. I tried to get it today when I picked up my part. The light was not on and the code puller did not get anything.

sucks2beme wrote: »

Just because the dash light isn't lit anymore doesn't mean there isn't
a stored code.

Already tried to get a code there is none stored.

THEJERMON

I'm going with a bad spark plug wire. (I'm no mechanic but sounds like a problem I had with a ride and the spark plug wire was arcing from time to time.)

JimKellyfan

good call on the wire
if they are oe and especially if they have any white spots, could be an arcing spot
wires will typically break up under a load, but typically not an intermittent issue and typically will leave a stored code
on the older model Fords, there are at least two testing modes, KOER and KOEO (key on engine running and off)
More than 60, I would shop around, too, should be lifetime part and one time purchase like spark plug wires, but, as I said, it has been awhile since I last bought one

JimKellyfan

wOw, 73.99 for an external module at AZ, they did go up. There are two engine types, turbo and not, and also there are two distributor types as well, internal and external modules. which vehicle do you have (turbo or not) and which set up (internal or external). I ask, as there would be testing we can do first, to confirm. But, would need to know which first.

bigaudiofanatic

Non turbo and I think external I will have to check when I get home tonight.

You can fallow the project here http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105559

bigaudiofanatic

Ok so after adding to the list of things.

Distributor cap and rotor
Spark plug wires

I am still having the issue.

Seems as though it is happening less now however I noticed that when I start driving the car "cold" it is fine. Than after about a half hour of driving it starts acting up. However as I said not all the time.

bobman1235

Does the car have an MAF sensor?

EDIT: it does. I'd check that.

JimKellyfan

again, another good call on checking the MAF
I remember on some of the Mazda's and Ford's, if they didn't run, or had issue running, simply unplug and see how they ran like that.
That determined what, on those mid to late 90's models anyway.

So, how did it work out ?
Get it figured out yet ?