Car trouble

bigaudiofanatic

Need some help guys.

My 1994 mercury capri has decided it likes to mess with me. Car has 114k on it.

What has been done?

Fuel filter
spark plugs
injection cleaner
radiator flush
oil change

What is going on?

I could be at idel or cruising or accelerating. At any random time my car will jerk back as if miss fired or something else and the check engine light will come on. However the check engine light no sooner comes on than goes out. Once in a while it will stay on but the car will be running fine during that time which is usually like 10 seconds or so.

Any ideas what to check, replace?

I have checked the charge pack for the spark and dis cap seems to be almost new.
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bobman1235

Is 1994 too old to have an OBD port where you can read WHY the check engine light is coming on? Seems like that's the first step you should take if so.

quadzilla

Even if the check engine light goes out, you can get the error code(s) from the computer. Just take it to a mechanic, or go to your auto parts store. Either can pull the code(s) from the computer to help you figure out what's happening.

Although a little googling indicated that one guy who had a similar problem and replaced pretty much the same stuff ended up finding out he had a bad ignition switch.

bigaudiofanatic

The light will not stay on long enough to get a code and yes it has one. Unless I am missing something, I thought they could only read a code if the light was on.

bigaudiofanatic

quadzilla wrote: »

Even if the check engine light goes out, you can get the error code(s) from the computer. Just take it to a mechanic, or go to your auto parts store. Either can pull the code(s) from the computer to help you figure out what's happening.

Although a little googling indicated that one guy who had a similar problem and replaced pretty much the same stuff ended up finding out he had a bad ignition switch.

Thank you for clarifying that. I have google with things like :mercury capri flickering check engine light or mercury capri jerking.

bobman1235

Modern cars you can get the code whether the light is on or off. '94 is... not quite modern

quadzilla

94 is new enough that the computer will store the fault code for about 20 starts.

kawizx9r

Did you replace the spark plug wires as well?

Is the coil ok?

Compression test?

Also, pull out and inspect your plugs. Make sure the gap is still the same as well.

WilliamM2

quadzilla wrote: »

94 is new enough that the computer will store the fault code for about 20 starts.

I don't know about that. I have a 98' Mazda that has the check engine light come on occasionally. If the lights on, I can read the codes, when it goes out none show up at all.

Sherardp

Fuel pump?

headrott

Does the car turn over but not start every once in a while? Especially after turning the ignition switch off and then trying to start the car again soon after shutting it off? Also, if it does this, does the check engine light come on when this (above) occurs and then if you leave the ignition in the "on" but not try to actually start the car until after the check engine light goes off? Or does the check engine light only come on while driving? Or both? I had a similar problem with the symptoms I described above on my Honda CRX and it was a bad ignition switch. As quadzilla explained, take it to a mechanic or to an auto parts store and they should be able to get the error code stored in the computer after the check engine light comes on. It is stored in the computer even after the check engine light turns off, so it does not have to be on when the mechanic or auto parts store guy tries to read the code. Hope this helps.

Greg

inspiredsports

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bigaudiofanatic

kawizx9r wrote: »

Did you replace the spark plug wires as well?

Is the coil ok?

Compression test?

Also, pull out and inspect your plugs. Make sure the gap is still the same as well.

No just the spark plugs as the wires and dis cap were in good condition.

headrott wrote: »

Does the car turn over but not start every once in a while? Especially after turning the ignition switch off and then trying to start the car again soon after shutting it off? Also, if it does this, does the check engine light come on when this (above) occurs and then if you leave the ignition in the "on" but not try to actually start the car until after the check engine light goes off? Or does the check engine light only come on while driving? Or both? I had a similar problem with the symptoms I described above on my Honda CRX and it was a bad ignition switch. As quadzilla explained, take it to a mechanic or to an auto parts store and they should be able to get the error code stored in the computer after the check engine light comes on. It is stored in the computer even after the check engine light turns off, so it does not have to be on when the mechanic or auto parts store guy tries to read the code. Hope this helps.

Greg

No car starts right up first try. I have tried jiggling the keys when driving to see if anything happens nothing. So it is further away like ignition system I am thinking.

disneyjoe7

Hmm.... Not knowing this car but... If this car as a MAF sensor try cleaning it. Or my thinking a dirty / bad TPS.

heiney9

OBD II cars store information..............1994 is too early for OBD II computers. OBD II stands for On Board Diagnostics.

OBD I cars usually don't store the info, or if they do it's for a short time, IIRC. Maybe John will chime in.

H9

nadams

Strange that the check engine light would come on immediately when the problem occurs, and then go back out immediately. Usually, the computer monitors a misfire condition for a little while before setting the misfire code. Then, if you resolve the misfire, it will clear itself after some smooth driving.

Therefore, I'd also lean towards an ignition switch (with the limited information we have). When the engine stops running, the check engine light will immediately come on because the key is on but no firing. As soon as the firing resumes, there's no longer a "check engine" condition.

But then, I'm no expert... and I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

Edit- Just thought of something.... it could also be a faulty sensor telling the engine computer that the engine is no longer turning over (which would kill spark to the engine completely). Cam/Crank position sensor failing?

quadzilla

WilliamM2 wrote: »

I don't know about that. I have a 98' Mazda that has the check engine light come on occasionally. If the lights on, I can read the codes, when it goes out none show up at all.

Interesting. My 93 Ford stores it, and my mechanic told me that most cars after about 90 will.

heiney9

quadzilla wrote: »

Interesting. My 93 Ford stores it, and my mechanic told me that most cars after about 90 will.

Depends on manufacturer and which computer type they use.

On know for most Volkswagens OBD II wasn't available until 1995 or 1996.

H9

sucks2beme

OBDI is a bit more crude.
http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/Ford%20OBD1%20Decoder.htm

This is a way to read them. Other than that, do a general look around for any
loose or corroded connections.

Joe08867

heiney9 wrote: »

Depends on manufacturer and which computer type they use.

On know for most Volkswagens OBD II wasn't available until 1995 or 1996.

H9

VW OBDII was introduced late 1995.

I would see if you can get a code off the car. I would guess that you are feeling a timing problem. Had something similar in a Jimmy. Ended up being the Distributor cap and or wires.

Just cause wires look OK doesn't mean they aren't getting brittle or corroded.

bigaudiofanatic

nadams wrote: »

Strange that the check engine light would come on immediately when the problem occurs, and then go back out immediately. Usually, the computer monitors a misfire condition for a little while before setting the misfire code. Then, if you resolve the misfire, it will clear itself after some smooth driving.

Therefore, I'd also lean towards an ignition switch (with the limited information we have). When the engine stops running, the check engine light will immediately come on because the key is on but no firing. As soon as the firing resumes, there's no longer a "check engine" condition.

But then, I'm no expert... and I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

Edit- Just thought of something.... it could also be a faulty sensor telling the engine computer that the engine is no longer turning over (which would kill spark to the engine completely). Cam/Crank position sensor failing?

That is the thing though, the car is still running just jerks and once in a while the light will stay on for about 10 seconds or more and the car will be driving fine during that time. So I can not see it being the ignition switch.

bigaudiofanatic

Ordered a new ignition coil today and will install it tonight see if that helps.

sucks2beme

If you haven't pulled the code, why not?
It may be meaningless, or it might pinpoint the problem.
Or throw a bunch of parts at it and hope for the best.

JimKellyfan

Ignition modules are known for issues on the old Fords.
Some are mounted on the distributor and some on the firewall.
There is a special grease that goes on the backside as well, a heat sink white grease.
Comes with the part.
If it is winter time, and they are failing, you are in NJ so maybe cold still, I put snow on the module, as they usually act up warm, but can really act up anytime.

JimKellyfan

should look similar to this and cost 30 - 60, it has been awhile since I owned a Ford.
No offense.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=MPETP57SB_0167709061

JimKellyfan

If the module is OE (original equipment), just change it.
It is overdue anyway.
Hope this helps.

bigaudiofanatic

JimKellyfan wrote: »

should look similar to this and cost 30 - 60, it has been awhile since I owned a Ford.
No offense.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=MPETP57SB_0167709061

I will try that.

The coil did not seem to fix the problem. Once again car ran fine for almost a half hour than acted up for about 5 seconds than was fine again on the way home.

sucks2beme wrote: »

If you haven't pulled the code, why not?
It may be meaningless, or it might pinpoint the problem.
Or throw a bunch of parts at it and hope for the best.

Because they can NOT pull the code if the light is not on. I tried to get it today when I picked up my part. The light was not on and the code puller did not get anything.

JimKellyfan

They have a scan tool that goes on sale every now and then made from Innova / Equus. I have the Craftsman branded version that does OBD I and OBD II, it is on sale for 299, but occasionally goes for 250 or I got mine for 199.99. Online cheaper yet.
Here is a link:
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=innova+equus#q=innova+equus&hl=en&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=m0mmTZevHdOftweMmbiFAQ&ved=0CFEQrQQ&biw=1280&bih=899&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=e96376757cabdab1

JimKellyfan

Yeah those modules are definitely known for intermittent problems. Is yours OE ?

JimKellyfan

Yeah 140 on Amazon for the same one I bought. Free updates online too. Nice tool.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=innova+equus&hl=en&prmd=ivns&biw=1280&bih=899&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=11752094227414794160&sa=X&ei=nUmmTanzL46jtgfM7q2FAQ&ved=0CHoQ8wIwAw#

bigaudiofanatic

Probably is