hello all! this noob just purchased 2 rti a9's

2

Comments

  • slk55amg
    slk55amg Posts: 305
    edited March 2011
    The blue lights are cool, My Emo works for me, would I prefer a Krell, sure I would, maybe at some point if I have lots cash sitting around I will get one, till than I am not unhappy with the Emo....................................
    Emotiva XPA5, Sony ES 5300,: Lsi 15,s LSIC, Monitor 70,s, ( side surrounds) FXI 3,s, (rear surrounds)Micropro4000, Velodyne DEQ 10, Sony 55inchXBR 930D Sony BDP 790 Bedroom rig SonyES 3200 RTIA1,s CSIA4 FXI3,s polk PSW 10 SONY 34inch XBR960:cool:SONY BDP550
  • cstmar01
    cstmar01 Posts: 4,424
    edited March 2011
    John K. wrote: »
    John, welcome to Club Polk. The first point is that you appear to have a misunderstanding about how amplification works. You can't "give" a speaker more power just by connecting a more powerful amplifier. The speaker uses only as much power as it needs for the sound level at a particular instant in time. For a comfortably loud average level around 80-85dB at the listening position, speakers of average sensitivity, such as your RTi A9s, use about 1 watt. At that moment it doesn't matter if the amplifier can supply a maximum of 10 watts, 100 watts or 1000 watts, only 1 watt is used. Of course there are brief peaks which require much more power for maybe a fraction of a second, but even this can typically be taken care of by receivers rated anywhere in the 100-150 watt area.

    You're possibly referring to the excellent buy on the Onkyo 808 factory refurb from Accessories4less. This is strongly recommended, as it has all the maximum power capacity that you'll need for safe(to your hearing)listening levels. It also has the Audyssey MultEQ automatic calibration and room equalization system, which is a significant advantage over otherwise similar receivers. Factory refurbished units, which I use with great satisfaction, have been individually inspected, and should be at least as reliable as those which are brand new.


    really?

    I thought you said it would have to have at least 100-150 watts per channel. Have you done a test bench on this model to prove this?

    Per its specs it can only do 100W with 2 channels driven...hmm so what if you have 5, pretty sure its not going to be around there.

    http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=TX-NR808&class=Receiver&p=s


    The Pio SC series is a good way to go. A9's still will perform well if you add more power later on as it does have pre outs.
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited March 2011
    oh wow thanks john i love this forum more and more ;)
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited March 2011
    okay well i decided after reading many reviews to go with the sc-37.. its probably a little more than i wanted to spend but it should be something i have for a long while (hopefully)

    so with that being said for now i'll have the sc-37 powering the 2 towers untill i get some more spare money together for the rest of my setup

    could you guys recommend a specific cable/banana plug i should purchase to complete this setup for now
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited March 2011
    okay that seems fair if i go with the signal ultra (http://signalcable.com/ultraspeaker.html)

    do i need the single or bi wire for now? and i only need 2 for now correct? (1 for each rti a9)
  • slk55amg
    slk55amg Posts: 305
    edited March 2011
    start out single, you can add if need be...........................................
    Emotiva XPA5, Sony ES 5300,: Lsi 15,s LSIC, Monitor 70,s, ( side surrounds) FXI 3,s, (rear surrounds)Micropro4000, Velodyne DEQ 10, Sony 55inchXBR 930D Sony BDP 790 Bedroom rig SonyES 3200 RTIA1,s CSIA4 FXI3,s polk PSW 10 SONY 34inch XBR960:cool:SONY BDP550
  • cstmar01
    cstmar01 Posts: 4,424
    edited March 2011
    Single run is more than fine. The jumpers are nice but not needed if you just want to get started at first. Ultra is good stuff and well made.
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    thanks guys, does frank usually take a while to respond to emails? i sent him an email last night and still haven't heard from him. iam probably being a little impatient with everything but iam excited to get everything going and progress my learning
  • EDUBAG
    EDUBAG Posts: 403
    edited April 2011
    erik tracy wrote: »
    what you are describing is called 'bi-wiring' (sometimes mistaken for 'bi-amping') which would require 2 sets of speaker cables per speaker from the amp: One set would power the 'bass' drivers of the rtia9s and the 2nd set would power the 'treble' drivers of the rtia9s.

    So, the rtia9s would not really be getting a combined 200+200 watts for 400 watts, but rather the bass drivers would get 200 and the treble drivers would get 200.

    I have not personally done any tests to see if this makes a difference or not, but here on cp, the consensus seems to be that bi-wiring is not worth it, so buying an xpa-5 would be a waste for a bi-wired set up.

    If it were my money, i'd get a good avr first (make sure it has pre-outs for all speaker channels so that you can add an external amp - but if you are considering the pio elite series then these do have pre-outs), then get a good external 2-channel amp - or both at the same time if i had the money for both an avr and a 2-channel amp.

    You have to factor in related costs for good quality interconnect cables from the avr to the external amp, and then good speaker cabling as well. So that could chew up some dollars in your budget that folks often overlook.

    first,

    welcome to the forum.

    Secondly i would listen to what erik has to say since he has a lot of experience and a lot of repect from this forum.

    I beleive that you (like a lot of new people to the hobby, myself included some time ago) are paying too much attention to the numbers and you will learn here and by experience that numbers give you an idea sometimes but are not the determining factor to good sound.

    You do not need to fill the 500 watts capacty from the 9's, i doubt your ears can handle the volume that you would get from 500 watts anyways (it would be very loud and bad sound). So buy a higher quality avr, like pio elites sc series, or go with a rotel pre/pro combo or alike. I push my rtia7 with a rotel rb990 bx, but i am sure you can get the 9's to sing with the rb1080 (i beleive) or the rb1090 which are great amps and ore modern than mine.

    So i recommend: A two channel amp capable of pushing your towers speakers and let the avr handle the rest of speakers. Maybe get a three channel amp (emo xp3), but i dont think it wouldb be necessary.

    Sorry for the long post but if i had somebody to give me advice (or i sought it) before buying my speakers my system would have 9 instead of 7 and i would have saved a lot of steps and money getting where i am right now (which is not even close to where i want to be)

    good luck

    eduardo.
    HT:
    POLK AUDIO RTI4 FRONTS
    CSI3 CENTER
    DEF TECH PROMONITOR800 SURROUNDS
    PSW 125 SUB
    PIONEER ELITE AVR23TXH AVR
    APPLE TV 160GB
    PANASONIC BLURAY PLAYER
    50" PANASONIC PLASMA TCP50C2

    2 CHANNEL:
    KEF R300 THREE WAY BOOKSHELF GLOSS PIANO BLACK
    ROTEL RC 990BX PRE
    ROTEL RB 990BX AMP
    OPPO DV980 (AS CD PLAYER)
    PIONEER PL100 TURNTABLE WITH SHURE MX97E CART
    MIT EXP2 SPEAKER CABLES
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    for the price do you guys feel the signal silver resolution are worth the extra $ comared to the ultra?

    i think iam reading that copper is better for music with lots of bass such has hip hop or club type genres.. is this true?

    btw thank you edubag
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    should i go with a bi-wire silver for highs copper for bass or am i getting wayy too technical with all this
  • Erik Tracy
    Erik Tracy Posts: 4,673
    edited April 2011
    :biggrin:
    jmd1982 wrote: »
    should i go with a bi-wire silver for highs copper for bass or am i getting wayy too technical with all this

    Too technical...padawan....this is a path which you will always be on...there is no destination....:biggrin:

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    thanks erik

    one last question before i order. iam sorry for so many questions but all this reading on debates for bi wiring is driving me insane.

    iam going to go with the ultras for now (copper)
    should i go with singles with jumpers
    or biwires

    the price of both quoted from frank isnt that big of a difference so iam not worried about that, just want to make the best connection possible.

    also should i go with these ics? or dont bother

    http://signalcable.com/analogtwo.html
  • Erik Tracy
    Erik Tracy Posts: 4,673
    edited April 2011
    jmd1982 wrote: »
    thanks erik

    one last question before i order. iam sorry for so many questions but all this reading on debates for bi wiring is driving me insane.

    iam going to go with the ultras for now (copper)
    should i go with singles with jumpers
    or biwires

    the price of both quoted from frank isnt that big of a difference so iam not worried about that, just want to make the best connection possible.

    also should i go with these ics? or dont bother

    http://signalcable.com/analogtwo.html

    I have no direct experience with the Signal Audio products...you probably should wait for others to chime in.

    As for biwire vs singles....start singles....you will probably change components and cables over time...remember this is your start!

    Enjoy the sonic goodness and then get some time logged with your system first before you decide the next step!

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    okay my speakers and receiver are high quality (i believe)

    polk rti a9's
    pioneer elite sc-37
    (rest of 5.1/7.1 speakers later to come)
    (amps soon to come)

    so i just want to make sure wiring isnt holding me back

    single with stock jumpers?
  • Erik Tracy
    Erik Tracy Posts: 4,673
    edited April 2011
    jmd1982 wrote: »
    okay my speakers and receiver are high quality (i believe)

    polk rti a9's
    pioneer elite sc-37
    (rest of 5.1/7.1 speakers later to come)
    (amps soon to come)

    so i just want to make sure wiring isnt holding me back

    single with stock jumpers?

    You should post a pic of the grin you're gonna have when you get this all set up and you start enjoying the music! :tongue:

    You are off to a vg start.

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.
  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited April 2011
    So what are you going to use as a source? Have to have something to feed music to these bad boys!
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    Hey outfitter,

    I have a 24" touch screen hanging on a wall which is linked to a dedicated computer running jukebox software. Most of the files are high quality mp3s known as flacs. So hopefully it sounds okay :). Also I will have them hooked to a 63 inch plasma for movies
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    edited April 2011
    jmd1982 wrote: »
    Hey outfitter,

    I have a 24" touch screen hanging on a wall which is linked to a dedicated computer running jukebox software. Most of the files are high quality mp3s known as flacs. So hopefully it sounds okay :). Also I will have them hooked to a 63 inch plasma for movies

    MP3s are lossy, while FLAC is a lossless format. Lossless is good. Enjoy! :smile:
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    yes that is correct :)

    i diddnt know if saying just "flac" here would of raised alot of heads
  • SRTer
    SRTer Posts: 372
    edited April 2011
    jmd1982 wrote: »
    okay my speakers and receiver are high quality (i believe)

    polk rti a9's
    pioneer elite sc-37
    (rest of 5.1/7.1 speakers later to come)
    (amps soon to come)

    so i just want to make sure wiring isnt holding me back

    single with stock jumpers?

    Hey, did you pick up your new reciever yet?

    If not, I just want to let you know that you will get the same performance if you buy the SC-35 or SC-37. They have the same power sections.

    I have the SC-35 with Polk RTi A9's and it's nice.
    SC models sound great after mic auto cal but there are still a few adjustments I would recommend to the EQ.

    If you have any questions about the setup or anything, let me know. I will try to help you.

    Enjoy the sound of fullness from you RTi A9's

    My setup thread
    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117648
    Fronts: Polk RTi A9
    Center: Polk CSI A6
    Rears: Polk RTi A7
    Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
    Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
    Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
    TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
    Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    hey ster yes i purchased it already, the thing that made me go with the 37 over the 35 was the wireless play feature
  • SRTer
    SRTer Posts: 372
    edited April 2011
    jmd1982 wrote: »
    hey ster yes i purchased it already, the thing that made me go with the 37 over the 35 was the wireless play feature

    Well, enjoy. Have you hooked up your system to see what it sound like?

    Are you going to do a Stereo, or HT (5.1 or 7.1) later?

    If so, what are you going to do for the center, rears, and sub?
    Fronts: Polk RTi A9
    Center: Polk CSI A6
    Rears: Polk RTi A7
    Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
    Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
    Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
    TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
    Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    well your gonna laugh but i havnt received any of my items yet... (lol)

    the speakers should be here monday and the receiver should be here tuesday (i believe)

    and iam waiting on franks reply for the wiring, so its going to be another week or so before i can hear anything. untill then i'll be doing alot of reading. by the way i checked out your setup, that is pretty sweeet
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
  • Erik Tracy
    Erik Tracy Posts: 4,673
    edited April 2011
    jmd1982 wrote: »

    AQ Type-4s are definitely a step up over lamp cord.

    As long as you get a good deal - they are vg performer.

    Have you tried to find used deals on speaker cables at audiogon.com?

    I've picked up veritable 'steals' there...:tongue:

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.
  • gfong
    gfong Posts: 1,079
    edited April 2011
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    As above states, go used if looking for speaker cables. I picked up a pristine set of Audioquest Type 4's off a member on here and also picked up another set off of Audiogon.
    Picked up my sub cable for half price as well.

    Type 4
    http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?cablspkr&1305572356&/Audioquest-Type-4-10Ft
  • Erik Tracy
    Erik Tracy Posts: 4,673
    edited April 2011
    You could also try these at a heck of a deal (thanks Keiko):
    http://www.mitcablesexpress.com/exp-b-stock-sale.html

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited April 2011
    EDUBAG wrote: »
    first,

    welcome to the forum.

    Secondly i would listen to what erik has to say since he has a lot of experience and a lot of repect from this forum.

    I beleive that you (like a lot of new people to the hobby, myself included some time ago) are paying too much attention to the numbers and you will learn here and by experience that numbers give you an idea sometimes but are not the determining factor to good sound.

    You do not need to fill the 500 watts capacty from the 9's, i doubt your ears can handle the volume that you would get from 500 watts anyways (it would be very loud and bad sound). So buy a higher quality avr, like pio elites sc series, or go with a rotel pre/pro combo or alike. I push my rtia7 with a rotel rb990 bx, but i am sure you can get the 9's to sing with the rb1080 (i beleive) or the rb1090 which are great amps and [m]ore modern than mine.

    So i recommend: A two channel amp capable of pushing your towers speakers and let the avr handle the rest of speakers. Maybe get a three channel amp (emo xp3), but i dont think it wouldb be necessary.

    Sorry for the long post but if i had somebody to give me advice (or i sought it) before buying my speakers my system would have 9 instead of 7 and i would have saved a lot of steps and money getting where i am right now (which is not even close to where i want to be)

    good luck

    eduardo.
    Ditto. Ditto to EDUBAG, Erik, et al on the connection details etc. Remember your speakers will sound only as good as the amps driving them. And subject to opinion, IMHO that goes double for your amplification. So choose your processor/AVR carefully.

    BTW As Eric alluded to, and I agree, consider used Rotel amps. Might be hard to find but RB-991*/3* - 2/3 channel amps. 1080* or 1090*, great choices, too.
    * I'm headed that way

    At the risk of a flame-out from someone, every Rotel review I've read says Rotel amps will net you near Krell/Levinson sound quality & performance at lower $. You should find used at about what you're lookin' to spend on some of the above mentioned amps new.

    Cheers tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • jmd1982
    jmd1982 Posts: 27
    edited April 2011
    is the 1090 the best choice out of the 3 listed?

    if iam reading this correctly the 1090 is a 2 channel amp
    wouldnt i need a 3 channel for my front 2 speakers and center channel?