Anyone try the "Polk Audio Monitor 10, RTA 11T Upgrade Kit" listed on eBay?
seventy1
Posts: 15
I'm sure this must have been talked about before, but I can't seem to find a thread about the "upgrade kit" listed on eBay (item 260753425018). It appears to be more than just updated to polypro caps, claims to correct problems in the mid and upper frequencies that make the speakers "irritating". Just wondering if anyone hass tried the kit and what you think. Thanks!
Post edited by seventy1 on
Comments
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Garbage.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Stick with quailty caps and resistors. You'll be much happier with the results.
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Thanks, makes sense that the original designer of a well regarded speaker would know more about its crossover design than some dude on the Bay.
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If your speakers irratate you-- play some barry manilow, that will fix em LOLMain Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
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Thanks, makes sense that the original designer of a well regarded speaker would know more about its crossover design than some dude on the Bay.
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hummm...I have never found my stock 10's to be irritating. Although I plan, at some point, to do the XO upgrades.--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
But lots of people here do crossover upgrades; changing the inductors to reduce the DCR, etc. Do they know better than the original designers? You should also consider that people have access to crossover simulation software now that is far more powerful than what Polk had in the 80s.
This sounds a lot like trolling, but I am going to bite anyway. Reasons to redo crossovers:
The crossovers are now 15-30 years old and some of the components are worn out such as electrolytic caps.
The components are not as high quality as what is on the market now such as non-inductive resistors or very nice poly film caps.
The marketing and financial folks have a price point for a certain speaker and as the new owner you are willing to do some upgrades and replace select components with higher grade ones.
All of these changes can be without modifying the original design specifications for capacitance, resistance, inductance. These are the most commonly found speaker mods on this forum.
As you point out Jcandy some people, actually a very small group, have changed inductors and inductor values of DCR. Usually in the lowest part of the frequency spectrum for bass response.
As far as the kit, one does not have to spend money on a kit to see the quality of the kit components. Are they arguably better than say a 30 year dried up electrolytic capacitor? Yes! But one would be better spending their money on tried and true upgrade components found in the DIY forum and following some of the completely illustrated with photo threads on how to perform these upgrades IMHO.:biggrin: -
Good points, guys. I did find one favorable review on this kit on AK by rushfan:
"the seller had excellent ratings and a number of interesting upgrade kits. I found out about him from a satisfied customer in another forum. I guess that he must be onto something with the electrolytic capacitor. The bass has tightened up noticeably and remains satisfyingly deep. I was listening to some electronic music today (Phutureprimitive) and the bass was positively cavernous. You'd think that I'd be used to this by now (my best speakers feature dual 6.5" woofers too) but I cannot get over how low those small drivers go."
But there are many more favorable comments about just updating the caps, hmm :rolleyes:. -
I have RTA15TL's that I would like to upgrade the XO's on. I replaced the 3000's with 198's this weekend. Does anyone out there sell completed XO boards assembled? I'm not real handy with soldering.
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But lots of people here do crossover upgrades; changing the inductors to reduce the DCR, etc. Do they know better than the original designers? You should also consider that people have access to crossover simulation software now that is far more powerful than what Polk had in the 80s.
OK so you are a troll.. Oh well, now to answer why they are garbage.
1. They aren't changing values from what I read but who knows.
2. They aren't changing inductors or DCR or values just the caps
3. They are using is and inferior product to what is available from Solen, Sonicraft and many others. If I am not mistaken those are Dayton caps they are pushing and honestly I would not use Dayton in any tweeter circuit again.
4.They are overcharging people for it.
Is that enough or do you need more answers. -
I have RTA15TL's that I would like to upgrade the XO's on. I replaced the 3000's with 198's this weekend. Does anyone out there sell completed XO boards assembled? I'm not real handy with soldering.
I meant to say quality boards not the "Bay" type. -
charley95, You might find a couple guys on here that can help you out.
Start your own thread to get replies. This way the original poster will not be derailed. -
Outfitter03 wrote: »This sounds a lot like trolling, but I am going to bite anyway. Reasons to redo crossovers:
The crossovers are now 15-30 years old and some of the components are worn out such as electrolytic caps.Outfitter03 wrote: »The components are not as high quality as what is on the market now such as non-inductive resistors or very nice poly film caps.Outfitter03 wrote: »All of these changes can be without modifying the original design specifications for capacitance, resistance, inductance. These are the most commonly found speaker mods on this forum.Outfitter03 wrote: »As you point out Jcandy some people, actually a very small group, have changed inductors and inductor values of DCR. Usually in the lowest part of the frequency spectrum for bass response.Outfitter03 wrote: »As far as the kit, one does not have to spend money on a kit to see the quality of the kit components. Are they arguably better than say a 30 year dried up electrolytic capacitor? Yes! But one would be better spending their money on tried and true upgrade components found in the DIY forum and following some of the completely illustrated with photo threads on how to perform these upgrades IMHO.:biggrin: -
OK so you are a troll.. Oh well, now to answer why they are garbage.
1. They aren't changing values from what I read but who knows.
2. They aren't changing inductors or DCR or values just the caps
3. They are using is and inferior product to what is available from Solen, Sonicraft and many others. If I am not mistaken those are Dayton caps they are pushing and honestly I would not use Dayton in any tweeter circuit again.
4.They are overcharging people for it.
Is that enough or do you need more answers.
Here are the crossover component recommendations for the Zaph ZD5 loudspeaker (http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZD5.html), something that will blow the monitor 10, for example, out of the water in terms of midrange and high-frequency performance:Eagle Metal Oxide Film for all resistors. Madisound medium bobbin standard air cores for all inductors except L14, which can be anything you want as long as it's DCR is .3 ohms or less. A Solen Perfect Lay 14 awg will do for L14, but a Sledgehammer Steel Laminate 15AWG will do even better for less money if you can unwind a 2.0mH to 1.8mH and have an LCR meter to confirm the value. Madisound can also unwind it for you for a small fee. Bennic Poly capacitors for all caps except for C10 and C20, which can be electrolytic. If you're afraid of using electrolytics, I recommend Solen Chateauroux Poly Fast Caps for C10 and C10. For C1, you will have to parallel a 1.0 and 3.3uF.
Note that compared to the ZD5 crossover, the monitor 10 crossover looks like a 72 VW Beetle compared to a 2011 Porsche. Better crossovers are very audible, boutique caps are probably at the limit of audibility, so it doesn't make much sense to throw away too much money on them. You're trying to make a VW into a Porsche by upgrading the spark plugs.
For this reason, I would think Bennic/Dayton is entirely appropriate. -
I tried the stuff on ebay on some moniter 5's the caps are very generic. I would just go so far as say if you want to use them do yourself a favor and just keep the old caps in there cause the new will be NO BETTER. not to mention you'd save 25.00
"Note that the eBay upgrade consists of good quality polypropylene caps."
The sellers of **** enhancement pills also say top quality, But we all know that nobody is growing horse members. -
Here we go again. JCandy knows all!
To the OP, You can buy better parts than the Ebay kit. If you don't want too, then buy the Ebay kit. But the tried and true methods outlined here in CP over the past 5-6 years yield excellent results time after time vs. buying something from someone you don't have a clue about and is in it to make a profit.
Your choice
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Here we go again. JCandy knows all!
To the OP, You can buy better parts than the Ebay kit. If you don't want too, then buy the Ebay kit. But the tried and true methods outlined here in CP over the past 5-6 years yield excellent results time after time vs. buying something from someone you don't have a clue about and is in it to make a profit.
Your choice
H9
Agreed!!! But it might be just a fluke but JCandy always post's around some of the new members posts.Team work maybe???? -
If you do buy the Ebay kit see if the seller will throw in a full can of pop for free.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
I tried the stuff on ebay on some moniter 5's the caps are very generic. I would just go so far as say if you want to use them do yourself a favor and just keep the old caps in there cause the new will be NO BETTER. not to mention you'd save 25.00
"Note that the eBay upgrade consists of good quality polypropylene caps."
The sellers of **** enhancement pills also say top quality, But we all know that nobody is growing horse members. -
In my opinion the time and effort required to update the crossovers warrants using the best components you can afford. The kits may provide some improvement over the very old caps in the old Monitor 10s but I'd rather spend more and be sure of a real improvement.
Whenever I hear someone use the term "Blows **** XXXX out of the water" I stop reading.:eek::eek:TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE. -
Here we go again. JCandy knows all!
To the OP, You can buy better parts than the Ebay kit. If you don't want too, then buy the Ebay kit. But the tried and true methods outlined here in CP over the past 5-6 years yield excellent results time after time vs. buying something from someone you don't have a clue about and is in it to make a profit. -
In my opinion the time and effort required to update the crossovers warrants using the best components you can afford. The kits may provide some improvement over the very old caps in the old Monitor 10s but I'd rather spend more and be sure of a real improvement.
Whenever I hear someone use the term "Blows **** XXXX out of the water" I stop reading.:eek::eek: -
1) Subjective
I have two sets of speakers which use RD0-198 tweeters. One has Gen 1 Sonicaps in that portion of the crossover while the other has 5% tolerance Daytons. The highs the speakers produce are, to the best of my ability to hear, identical. Obviously a highly unscientific test, but enough to convince me to purchase Daytons for any future crossovers I want to recap.
2) Objective
What exactly is the difference between a Dayton cap and a Gen 1 Sonicap? They're both polypropylene, or am I mistaken on that point? -
Jcandy you are just a troll. Many here have tried numerous combinations of different caps in the crossovers. If you tried a few different brands you would notice that many of the different caps have their own sonic signature. Till you try different caps with the same speakers running the same gear please keep your ignorance to yourself. Again another stupid post about extremely high dollar pieces that nobody I know of uses in these vintage Polk's.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Yes, profit! What do you suppose the profit margin is for a $250 V-Cap?
V-Cap isn't actively soliciting on Ebay with a special upgrade kit for a narrow type of 20 year old speaker. Get your head out of your ****.......all companies make products for profit.
My point was that he (the Ebay seller) has no vested interest other than making a profit, whereas many people on CP have made suggestions and actually done the work have nothing financial to gain by suggesting he use better caps and resistors than the kit on Ebay.
..........and you have a PhD, and couldn't make that connection :rolleyes:
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Is that supposed to be an argument that shows Bennic/Dayton are not good quality caps? If so, then there are a lot of spectacular loudspeakers that outperform "upgraded" Monitor 10s in every way AND use cheaper caps.But why do you think paying more will guarantee a real improvement? Do you have any evidence that capacitor performance, like the taste of wine, is directly proportional to cost? Sounds highly unlikely to me. On the other hand, many respected speaker designers see little need to move beyond Dayton/Bennic caps even for speakers that use tweeters (say, a Scan-Speak 6k or 7k series, or a Seas Millenium) that are world-class.You think a new Dayton (Bennic) cap will be the weak link in a 30-year-old monitor 10
Here are the crossover component recommendations for the Zaph ZD5 loudspeaker (http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZD5.html), something that will blow the monitor 10, for example, out of the water in terms of midrange and high-frequency performance:Eagle Metal Oxide Film for all resistors. Madisound medium bobbin standard air cores for all inductors except L14, which can be anything you want as long as it's DCR is .3 ohms or less. A Solen Perfect Lay 14 awg will do for L14, but a Sledgehammer Steel Laminate 15AWG will do even better for less money if you can unwind a 2.0mH to 1.8mH and have an LCR meter to confirm the value. Madisound can also unwind it for you for a small fee. Bennic Poly capacitors for all caps except for C10 and C20, which can be electrolytic. If you're afraid of using electrolytics, I recommend Solen Chateauroux Poly Fast Caps for C10 and C10. For C1, you will have to parallel a 1.0 and 3.3uF.
Note that compared to the ZD5 crossover, the monitor 10 crossover looks like a 72 VW Beetle compared to a 2011 Porsche. Better crossovers are very audible, boutique caps are probably at the limit of audibility, so it doesn't make much sense to throw away too much money on them. You're trying to make a VW into a Porsche by upgrading the spark plugs.
For this reason, I would think Bennic/Dayton is entirely appropriate.
Blah...blah...blah.....blah....blah....blah.....
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
I'm sure this must have been talked about before, but I can't seem to find a thread about the "upgrade kit" listed on eBay (item 260753425018). It appears to be more than just updated to polypro caps, claims to correct problems in the mid and upper frequencies that make the speakers "irritating". Just wondering if anyone hass tried the kit and what you think. Thanks!
It will be a waste of time and money and sound like a$$ if you use the eBay kit, but on the other hand, someone should try it so the "objective only" folks don't have a conniption fit.
I nominate jcandy to order and solder some of these in place soon.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
intangible wrote: »1) Subjective
I have two sets of speakers which use RD0-198 tweeters. One has Gen 1 Sonicaps in that portion of the crossover while the other has 5% tolerance Daytons. The highs the speakers produce are, to the best of my ability to hear, identical. Obviously a highly unscientific test, but enough to convince me to purchase Daytons for any future crossovers I want to recap.
2) Objective
What exactly is the difference between a Dayton cap and a Gen 1 Sonicap? They're both polypropylene, or am I mistaken on that point?
And what gear are you using to power them???? Remember everything matters in the chain, and that is fact!!!
This discussion has been closed.