Paint Scheme Help Needed
zingo
Posts: 11,258
I will be building the chassis for my tube buffered class D amp this week, and will be building it out of MDF. I'm trying to figure out a decent paint scheme, and my first thought was black with the exterior sides an accent color. I know they make some cool metallic looking paint, or pearl, or brushed metal. It won't be the most high dollar chassis, but I'm wanting to do this on the cheap and I'm sure I can make it look decent. Ideas?
Post edited by zingo on
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Ferrari red brotha.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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I do like Ferrari red...
Does anyone have experience painting MDF? I've been reading up on it a little, and it seems a little tougher than regular pine boards. -
Cover it with wood veneer and stain it. For high end you need a calssy look. Its not as hard as you may think and you'll love the results. :cool:
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The raw edges of MDF need a bit of attention, you can't use anything that will introduce moisture to them. Moisture + MDF = swelling. First time out I used spackle to seal the edges, which in hindsight doesn't make much sense because it's (AFAIK) water based. Second time I used Bondo, which I felt was a PITA to work with. I think I didn't hit the right ratio of hardener to putty as it set up very quickly. Up side is it is extremely durable, unlike spackle. Since then I've been using an oil based primer and haven't looked back.
For top coats, I've always been interested in trying out some of the techniques and products my wife uses in her faux finishing business. She's wood grained speakers and my rack for me already, I'd like to try some of the metallic finishes next. Modern Masters has some really neat stuff, especially the iron and copper bases with the top coats for various patinas.Wristwatch--->Crisco -
Veneer, oil based primer, or how about red oak from Home Depot instead of MDF?"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Get me some 100% accurate measurements and I can have it done in granite for you.The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Granite would be sweet.Receiver: ONKYO 709
Amplifier: Acurus A200x3
Front: EmpTek E55Ti
Center: EmpTek E56Ci
Surround: EmpTek E5Bi
Sub: Elemental Designs A5-350
TV: LG 55"
Blu-Ray: PS3 -
Hi Jake,
Wood veneer over the face that covers the ends of the side panels and paint on the rest wood! be cool. That way the end grain would be covered by veneer and no worries about the problems Strider talks about.Main system: Lyngdorf TDAI 2170 w/ Pioneer 42" plazma-> Polk LSiM 703 w/Tivo, Marantz tuner, BRPTT: Nothingham Spacedeck-> Pioneer PL L1000 linear arm-> Soundsmith DL 103R-> SUT->Bottlehead ErosDigital: I3 PC w/ Jriver playing flac -> Sonore Ultrarendu -> Twisted Pair Audio ESS 9028 w/ Mercury IVY Vinyl rips: ESI Juli@24/192-> i3 PC server -
It might turn out totally crappy, but I'm going to try semi-gloss black body with Ferrari Red front panel. I cut the wood yesterday, and will start painting tomorrow. I've got plenty of primer and 200 grit sandpaper, so hopefully it should turn out decent.
Even if the amp doesn't look as good as I would hope/imaging, it will be one awesome sounding beast of 250wpc class D, Gold Lion 6922 buffered, integrated amp. :biggrin: