Fuses 2.3TL
jim 249
Posts: 347
Hi All; Thanks for all the help on my capacitor link. Now I want to remove the poly switch from the crossover and keep the speaker protected at the same time. So I would like to add a fuse assembly to each speaker. I thought about adding an inline fuse to the positive speaker wire between the rear binding post and the positive speaker wire. I also thought about drilling the binding post plate and adding a fuse holder. Any ideas on this one and how much fuse do I need and what type? Thanks!:biggrin:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=070-675
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=070-675
Post edited by jim 249 on
Comments
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There's no room to add a fuse holder to the binding post plate and even if you could, you'll kill the resale value. I would suggest replacing the poly's with new ones if you're that concerned about the protection and call it a day.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
After looking at the schematic a bit more, it would be easy to install an inline fuse between the two red binding posts replacing the jumper wire and using the low frequency binding post for my amp connection. How much fuse should I use and what type?
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After researching the poly switch, it is rated at 1.35 amps. So I will install a 1.25 amp agc fast blow fuse between the red binding posts and hook up the speakers to the amp with the LF binding posts. There has been too many times were I have managed to get clicks and pops and hum at loud levels that to leave the tweeters unprotected would eventually lead to tweeter replacement. Fuses are much cheaper to replace! Thanks for the help!
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Why not fix the real problem,and not put a bandaid on it? If not, you would be better off selling them and getting something else thats easier to power.
Seriously don't put a fuse in them...
Just my.02 -
Remove the polys,,jump em,,, consider an amplifier with higher current/wattage,,tubes perhaps.JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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There has been too many times were I have managed to get clicks and pops and hum at loud levels that to leave the tweeters unprotected would eventually lead to tweeter replacement.
Have you ever actually tripped the polys? If you have, you will know that they completely cut out the tweeters resulting in a loss of the high end. Clicks, pops and hum are something else entirely.
What are you driving them with?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I am driving them with a Nakamichi PA5-II amp and a Adcom GTP-500 preamp. If I turn on the amp first and then the preamp, there is a pop sound which comes from the speakers. On older speakers I have , the fuses have blown when there has been a pop sound going to them. The polys will be replaced with a .5 ohm 12 watt Mills resistor. I have never tripped the polys that I know of, the speakers are not played that loud. I can not see any harm by putting in a fuse assembly as long as there is no measured resistance being added to the tweeter circuit.
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I am driving them with a Nakamichi PA5-II amp and a Adcom GTP-500 preamp. If I turn on the amp first and then the preamp, there is a pop sound which comes from the speakers. On older speakers I have , the fuses have blown when there has been a pop sound going to them. The polys will be replaced with a .5 ohm 12 watt Mills resistor. I have never tripped the polys that I know of, the speakers are not played that loud. I can not see any harm by putting in a fuse assembly as long as there is no measured resistance being added to the tweeter circuit.
That's your problem, ALWAYS turn on the preamp first before the power amp and do the reverse when powering down!
Kids now days. :rolleyes:“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
Kids now days.
I was probably working on equipment prior to you being born! Talking about mid 60's now. Yes, I figured out to turn on the preamp first and then the power amp, but every now and then I will have a brain f##t and do it backwards. I am getting older. I just can not see why extra protection will hurt at all. Through my travels on the internet, there are actually something called "audio fuses" that sell for $40.00 each! People actually claim that your equipment sounds better with these. To me that is a bit of a stretch. -
. . . through my travels on the internet, there are actually something called "audio fuses" that sell for $40.00 each! People actually claim that your equipment sounds better with these. To me that is a bit of a stretch.
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