Wattage,
Why do companys make a reciever with 50, watts per channel, and another with 70??? both for stereo use, Does not the watts have to double, to make a differance? is this simply a selling point,
Not an Audiophile, just a dude who loves music, and decent gear to hear it with.
Post edited by thesurfer on
Comments
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You have to double the watts to get a 3db difference. 1db is the smallest amount that a human can supposedly detect. The extra 20 watts would yield a small gain if the receivers are rated by the same standards.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Sooo, if Yamaha puts out a reciever that has 60, watts per channel, and a model up,,, that puts out 80, watts per channel, and cost a $100 more,,, your really getting ripped off,,, kinda what i figured,,,Not an Audiophile, just a dude who loves music, and decent gear to hear it with.
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Not necessarily. Other elements come into play, such as does the 80 watter also have a beefier amp section, more current capability, etc.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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Butt, youd still have to double the watts, to notice it correct??Not necessarily. Other elements come into play, such as does the 80 watter also have a beefier amp section, more current capability, etc.Not an Audiophile, just a dude who loves music, and decent gear to hear it with. -
there are more things to consider that just watts
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More watts = more spl. But there are more factors of how it gets there. Will it put out more current? Will it driver lower impedance loads? Does it have more dynamic headroom? Does it have a larger transformer?2Ch Tube Audio Convert
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Got ya, all things need be considered,More watts = more spl. But there are more factors of how it gets there. Will it put out more current? Will it driver lower impedance loads? Does it have more dynamic headroom? Does it have a larger transformer?Not an Audiophile, just a dude who loves music, and decent gear to hear it with. -
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a 200 watts per channel amp does not mean is better than a 50 watts amp. There are a lot of things to consider before you just say this amp is better because it has more power. To me it is not just quantity, but Quality.
I have a Bryston B60-R integrated amp that is just 60 watts per channel. I have compared it side by side with way more powerful amps and integrated amps, but the Bryston B60-R with just "60 watts" put the other more powerful amps on shame. The same goes to speakers!!!
Make it simple...Make it better! -
3.5 watts per channel on my real hifi in the living room (and vintage output tubes that are older than I - and that's old).
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The Rule I follow is, the more watts,the better. you can do more harm to your amp and speakers with a lower watt amp. Let's talk Distortion,Clipping.PolkAudioClyde
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The Rule I follow is, the more watts,the better. you can do more harm to your amp and speakers with a lower watt amp. Let's talk Distortion,Clipping.
Very true for a solid state amp; much less likely with vacuum tube amps. -
That is sure a factor (Marketting has its purpose and can use many form)Why do companys make a reciever with 50, watts per channel, and another with 70??? both for stereo use, Does not the watts have to double, to make a differance? is this simply a selling point,
Not exactly, what other features are offered from the more expensive receiver? Any of them of any value to you? Are yo talking receiver or audio video receiver (AVR). Just a few extra options that are of use to YOU may justify the extra cost.Sooo, if Yamaha puts out a reciever that has 60, watts per channel, and a model up,,, that puts out 80, watts per channel, and cost a $100 more,,, your really getting ripped off,,, kinda what i figured,,,
As steveinaz points out, other factors are to be considered ("beefier amp section, geared toward "more current capability"). NOT all watts are equal, watts are the combination of the voltage and current (ExI). An amp, receiver, AVR that focus on providing you with larger current will perform much better than less current with more voltage and of course such circuitry is more expensive.
You are right but do not focus too much on the GREATHER POWER the BETTER as this is far from being always true. Less but of good quality is better than more but on the cheap.Butt, youd still have to double the watts, to notice it correct??
Exactly, you must focus on QUALITY rather than QUANTITY....To me it is not just quantity, but Quality.
I have a Bryston B60-R integrated amp that is just 60 watts per channel. I have compared it side by side with way more powerful amps and integrated amps, but the Bryston B60-R with just "60 watts" put the other more powerful amps on shame. The same goes to speakers!!!
Your statement is somewhat correct but can not be considered as absolute truth. More CRAPPY watts simply means more distortion, clipping and therefore more harm to the speakers. Do you realize most people in normal circomstances will not drive their system that much more than 10 watts?The Rule I follow is, the more watts,the better. you can do more harm to your amp and speakers with a lower watt amp. Let's talk Distortion,Clipping.
One should focus on quality watts, keep the amp/Rx/AVR fairly close to the speaker rating and make sure the amp/Rx/AVR has enough headroom so neither the amp/Rx/AVR and speakers struggle when used at decent or even louder level. Choose the above gear considering the room you are trying to fill and your personal loudness taste. By doing so, the only thing you have to worry about being damaged if you abuse is your hearing I never blew any of my gear and it is just average and I have to admit my prefered listening levels are often way more than 10 watts
BTW, nice "T
Bs" MH :cool: DARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
That is sure a factor (Marketting has its purpose and can use many form)
Not exactly, what other features are offered from the more expensive receiver? Any of them of any value to you? Are yo talking receiver or audio video receiver (AVR). Just a few extra options that are of use to YOU may justify the extra cost.
As steveinaz points out, other factors are to be considered ("beefier amp section, geared toward "more current capability"). NOT all watts are equal, watts are the combination of the voltage and current (ExI). An amp, receiver, AVR that focus on providing you with larger current will perform much better than less current with more voltage and of course such circuitry is more expensive.
You are right but do not focus too much on the GREATHER POWER the BETTER as this is far from being always true. Less but of good quality is better than more but on the cheap.
Exactly, you must focus on QUALITY rather than QUANTITY.
Your statement is somewhat correct but can not be considered as absolute truth. More CRAPPY watts simply means more distortion, clipping and therefore more harm to the speakers. Do you realize most people in normal circomstances will not drive their system that much more than 10 watts?
One should focus on quality watts, keep the amp/Rx/AVR fairly close to the speaker rating and make sure the amp/Rx/AVR has enough headroom so neither the amp/Rx/AVR and speakers struggle when used at decent or even louder level. Choose the above gear considering the room you are trying to fill and your personal loudness taste. By doing so, the only thing you have to worry about being damaged if you abuse is your hearing I never blew any of my gear and it is just average and I have to admit my prefered listening levels are often way more than 10 watts
BTW, nice "TBs" MH :cool:
Very well said! I have build many amps even some from NELSON PASS. one of them was only 10 watts. But the key here is as you said is in QUALITY WATTS!!!
I would rather have a well design 50 watts amp than a crappy and fatiguing 200 watts amp that will make my ears bleed.Make it simple...Make it better! -
Then again, sometimes, there is nothing wrong with a great big amp....Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
Size does matter but not with an amp
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Size does matter but not with an amp
I would argue that size is a factor, just not the only factor.
A smaller better sounding amp is a usually a better choice than a larger poor sounding one, but a large, great sounding amp would be my choice over a small great sounding one.
Movies have a 20db dynamic range as an average. Not the best choice for a small amp. Of course if you are using it mainly for listening to rock music (typically a lower dynamic range) in a small room with efficient speakers, you can get by with only a few watts.
Basically an amp needs to be matched to your needs and with the rest of your system taken into account. The perfect fit for my system may not be the perfect fit for yours....
MichaelMains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
