Suggested cables

ddkalfa

Hi, I'm assembling my system now, and would like to know what cables should I buy?

I've heard good recommendations on Blue Jeans Cables, does anybody know them?

Polk Monitor 70s
Polk Monitor 30s
Polk CS2
Polk PSW505
Onkyo RC270

ken brydson

Blue Jeans are good, So are Signal, MIT, etc. What's your budget?

ddkalfa

I'd say around $100 for everything, including banana plugs ... Is that possible?

dragon1952

Although I love their LC-1 interconnects, I didn't like either speaker wire in several different systems. Plus the Belden is pretty stiff and heavy and the Canare is pretty thick. Is the listed system the one you are buying for? And how long are the runs?

ddkalfa

Yes, that's the system I'm buying for.

Around 3 meters for front items (front pair, central and sub), and around 13 meters for surrounds.

dragon1952

I should have asked how you were wanting to run the cable to the rears. Is the cable going to be visible or are you wanting to stuff it under baseboards?

ddkalfa

dragon1952 wrote: »

I should have asked how you were wanting to run the cable to the rears. Is the cable going to be visible or are you wanting to stuff it under baseboards?

I plan to stuff them under baseboards ...

Upstatemax

I use speaker wire from Monoprice, CL2 rated 12ga with GLS locking Banana plugs for all receiver connections and GLS spade connections for the speakers.

Been very happy with that set up for my main HT system and my 2ch...

dragon1952

Upstatemax wrote: »

I use speaker wire from Monoprice, CL2 rated 12ga with GLS locking Banana plugs for all receiver connections and GLS spade connections for the speakers.

Been very happy with that set up for my main HT system and my 2ch...

In your price range I think I'd agree, at least for the rears. The white jacket is nicer looking than the clear PVC, IMO. And that would be easy to stuff under the baseboards. You could use the same all around if you want or look for something a little dressier for the fronts. Like the Signal Cable Classic for around $90 a pair in your length, and maybe a single for the center. That would push your total up to around $150 maybe. For the sub just get a length of coax with RCA's like this,
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=6305&seq=1&format=2

Here's a link for the Signal Cable http://signalcable.com/classicspeaker.html

fattmann

dragon1952 wrote: »

In your price range I think I'd agree, at least for the rears. The white jacket is nicer looking than the clear PVC, IMO. And that would be easy to stuff under the baseboards. You could use the same all around if you want or look for something a little dressier for the fronts. Like the Signal Cable Classic for around $90 a pair in your length, and maybe a single for the center. That would push your total up to around $150 maybe. For the sub just get a length of coax with RCA's like this,
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236&cs_id=1023603&p_id=6305&seq=1&format=2

Here's a link for the Signal Cable http://signalcable.com/classicspeaker.html

I generally don't comment on topics of cables/interconnects and the like due to lack of interest/knowledge- but just felt compelled to note how silly some of this cable talk is.

Suggesting $90pr wire for the fronts, then skimping out for a $3.50 cable for the sub? That just doesn't make sense to me. If you are going to get nice cables, do it all around, or save yourself the cash. Point of nice cables is to give an unbalanced-true sound, defeats the purpose if you are using "nonfancy" cables for certain channels.

Unless you wanted it to look nicer for the fronts as dragon mentioned, then by all means, looks do play a role in a good system.

I apologize, just felt like throwing my copper coins in.

B Run

There's a big difference is analog cables vs digital cables. Sub cables don't matter as much as long as they deliver the digital signal without interference. Analog cables are a whole different beast and do matter a lot more. I'm using the signal cable analog II interconnects ($145) and a $10 sub cable.

fattmann

B Run wrote: »

There's a big difference is analog cables vs digital cables. Sub cables don't matter as much as long as they deliver the digital signal without interference. Analog cables are a whole different beast and do matter a lot more. I'm using the signal cable analog II interconnects ($145) and a $10 sub cable.

I don't think the sub-out is digital. I guess it could be if you have a dedicated LFE out.. I have my sub out going into a very analog 400w guitar amp with an RCA->1/4" and it works just fine.

dragon1952

All the sub needs is a very basic coax. That's not skimping by any means. It is a low frequency, low bandwidth signal. It does not require anything other than RG6.

ben62670

Canare S411 speaker wire in bulk. It only cost $1.29 per foot. Also you could use something even cheaper for the rears like the monoprice.

fattmann

My point is it's silly to suggest good wire for one set, and not another. That'd be like putting street tires on the rear, and racing tires on the from of a race car- everything effects the performance.

ben62670

If the front 3 are matched you are good. The rears are much longer runs and I have used decent cheap 14ga wire for surrounds. The rears are not nearly as critical as the fronts. For a drag car you would put the coin into rear tires. For sports driving you would match the tires. Also I have no idea why I am talking about cars? The car analogy has nothing to do with sound.

dragon1952

Also, no one is suggesting any 'bad' wire. All I did was suggest 'dressier' wire for the fronts where you have to look at it. As for the sub, what do you suggest that is better than RG6?

ben62670

The sub cable is not digital. It is analog. The frequencies required by the sub is in the very lower end of the spectrum. Usually where you will notice the biggest gains using a nice IC is the upper ranges and sound stage... The RG6 should be fine. If others have tried RG6 and something like signal, or Blue Jeans I would be all ears to hear what they have to say about the differences. This sytem is a nice step up from a typical HTIB, but it is not high end stereo reproduction.

dragon1952

BTW, I was replying to fattmann. I should have done a quote and reply.

ScudDawg

ben62670 wrote: »

If the front 3 are matched you are good. The rears are much longer runs and I have used decent cheap 14ga wire for surrounds. The rears are not nearly as critical as the fronts. For a drag car you would put the coin into rear tires. For sports driving you would match the tires. Also I have no idea why I am talking about cars? The car analogy has nothing to do with sound.

completely agree about the front 3 and surrounds

photocrazy

B Run wrote: »

There's a big difference is analog cables vs digital cables. Sub cables don't matter as much as long as they deliver the digital signal without interference. Analog cables are a whole different beast and do matter a lot more. I'm using the signal cable analog II interconnects ($145) and a $10 sub cable.

So for analog signals, do the brand of interconnects matter ? Even for speaker wires?

ben62670

It's not the brand so much as the model. Chevy made the Chevette and the Corvette. Both are Vette's, but there is a huge difference.

dragon1952

photocrazy wrote: »

So for analog signals, do the brand of interconnects matter ? Even for speaker wires?

I would say the materials used and the electrical properties are the most important aspects. Materials, as in the purity of the metals (conductor and shielding) and quality of the connectors, and electrical properties, as in resistance, capacitance, and/or inductance. For audio IC's you want low capacitance and low shield resistance. For speaker wire you want low resistance. Some cables tweak the sound by increasing capacitance or resistance which could have the effect of rolling off the highs, which in turn could cause the particular cable to sound different than another.
Fancy cable geometries and dielectrics are other factors that can be claimed to improve sound, and possibly increase price.
This is pretty good instructional reading,
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/audio/LC1-design-notes.htm

I've tried a ton of IC's over the years and those LC-1's are as good or better than any I've tried and are currently what I am using.
As for speaker wire I prefer pure copper and heavy gauge conductors with relatively low strand count. You don't have to go expensive for those qualities.