Tweeters or Capacitors First?
Comments
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I forgot to add that, for the purpose of monitor-series crossover upgrades, you can safely stick with any good metallized polypropylene unit (lately I have been using Erse from Meniscus Audio -- AFAIK Erse is made in USA). It is also handy to buy inductors from Meniscus because they will unwind to a custom value.
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Candy that is a lot for someone new like me to absorb. However I can see the lines plotted on the graph for the sl2000 and RDO are very close throughout most of the frequency range. I really doubt that my ears could tell the difference but I'm not sure the graph tells the whole story of how the tweeters will sound in a normal listening environment. I'm just not smart enough on this subject to know one way or the other. I will say that I intend to ease into making changes a little at a time. I like the way the 10s sound right now but would like to do what I can to make them better but I also want to keep sight of a clear path back to where I am now if I make a mistake by changing something that results in a sound that I'm not happy with.
As suggested by a lot of other people here, my first step will be to make changes that will insure everything is up to factory specs or better and go from there. That will include new crossover electronics and making sure the drivers are sealed in the cabinets as they should be so I'm getting the sound that they had when they were new. After that making a decision on the tweeters to me would be the next logical step. I'm listening to everything you guys have to say. It's a learning experience for me and I'm really enjoying it. :biggrin:
I really appreciate everyone's comments. It's great to be here in this forum with all this knowledge available and be able to get differing opinions.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Ignore his measurements. They tell nothing of sound quality. Many speakers can reproduce nearly identical frequency response, but yet sound totally different from each other. Looking at specs most modern gear would sound the same on paper.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Hey Tenn, I think you are taking the right steps toward this process... enjoying the sound you like. I grew up on the SL-2000 tweater since my father bought SDA's when I was a young boy. I eventually bought my own pair of SDA's and began the journey of tweaks found on this forum.
I will admit that they never really bothered me until I started doing some critical listening and found that the highs bothered me at times. I saved up and put some RDO 194s in my speakers and can tell you it was worth every penny. My father has done the same.
I got my Monitor 10's the same time you did and am keeping the 2000's in for now which is fine, they sound good. However, they will eventually get all the treatments and I cant wait too hear them evolve.
Keep on enjoying what you have and when you do make the upgrades, keep us posted on your impressions of them.
Aaron
P.S. Ditto on what Ben said above -
Thanks for the encouragement.
I really may not even know the true sound of what two good sl2000s sound like this point. When I got my 10s one of the tweeters was bad (see photo). I soldered the broken wire and it started working but I'm sure it isn't 100% of what it should be because of the hole in the dome. The person I got the speakers from promised to replace the tweeter but it must have been put on a mule train that is headed this way. Once I get the replacement and install it I might hear something different than I'm hearing now. Better (I hope) or worse I don't know. Either way I'm having fun getting to know the 10s.
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Ignore his measurements. They tell nothing of sound quality. Many speakers can reproduce nearly identical frequency response, but yet sound totally different from each other. Looking at specs most modern gear would sound the same on paper.
On the contrary, I have various sets of completely different speakers, with different drivers, and the ones with flat SPL all sound quite similar (above the point where the bass-extension drops off). Usually, the tonal difference between speakers shows up right away in the SPL (for example, my Paradigms have a sound which is characteristic the downward-sloped SPL). The difference between systems with similar on-axis SPLs is, of course, related to power response (which is a strong function of baffle size) and distortion. At higher listening levels, thermal effects will also occur. Since we are in a situation (SL2K versus RD0-194) where power response, THD and thermal handling must be very close, there's not much else at work here (except imagination). At this point, the only plausible explanation seems to be that older SL2K are inferior to more recent ones. -
I'm glad I made you laugh. I used to think like you. Now I know better. I am not laughing at you. I just feel bad for you.
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
I really may not even know the true sound of what two good sl2000s sound like this point.
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Change the tweeters and upgrade the crossovers at the same time. Don't dick around with those nasty +5dB @ 13kHz SL2000's any longer than you have to.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I'm glad I made you laugh. I used to think like you. Now I know better. I am not laughing at you. I just feel bad for you.
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Change the tweeters and upgrade the crossovers at the same time. Don't dick around with those nasty +5dB @ 13kHz SL2000's any longer than you have to.
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At this point, the only plausible explanation seems to be that older SL2K are inferior to more recent ones.
I enjoy hearing from both sides of this issue.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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All SL2000's were made the same. The comment about the tweeters being older has more to do with the plastic/poly domes aging. The older the tweeter the more they degrade. Fabric domes don't suffer sound degradation like their plastic counterparts. Jcandy obviously has little practical experience with audio. According to him all speakers sound the same if they put out the same frequencies. I guess he has never heard the difference between poly, metal, and fabric domed tweeters. Never mind the distinct sound a horn puts out. Just as an example a violin is made of different kinds of wood, or even the same kind of wood, or even wood from the same tree, but is cut near or far from the stump. Even if the violin is tuned the same and plays the notes at the same SPL it sounds different than another violin made from a different piece of material.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Is it possible to look at the date stamp on the back of the tweeter to determine which group of sl2000s a speaker has? Have you been able to test enough to narrow down the date a change in the sl2000 was made? It would be helpful to know that date. Maybe a new thread is in order where the date on the tweeter can be listed along with the owners impression of how they sound. Who knows? Maybe a pattern would form.
I enjoy hearing from both sides of this issue.
One thing is for sure: the SL2000T sounds almost identical on-axis to the RDO-194. Anyhow, because you have a perforated dome, you will want to replace your existing units. -
I guess it boils down to how each person's ears perceive the sound produced by a pair of speakers in their own particular listening environment. There are so many other variables involved in how we actually hear the sounds produced by a given pair of speakers besides just the flat frequency response plotted on a graph under controlled conditions. The graph might prove that the RDO is a better tweeter on paper but doesn't prove that it is the best choice for my listening experience. The acoustics of the room, the ability of the listener to hear all the frequencies produced by the speaker and what sound the listener likes or dislikes all play a part in how well we enjoy what we are hearing from the speakers. I think the tweeter plays a important part in the sound we hear but it must mesh with all the other variables for us to get the WOW factor that we are all looking for. As an example I have a slight hearing loss in the higher frequencies. So if there is a bump in the high frequency range it could explain why I don't find the sl2000 harsh. Another person might sit down to listen to my speakers and wonder how I put up with what they hear.
When it comes time to make a decision on the RDOs I will have to purchase a pair to find out if they are for me or not, (unless someone is willing to loan a pair and I don't think that is likely). Then I can compare them to the sl2000 myself and make a decision based on what I can hear. That is the only way I will know for sure they are for me. Listening to speakers with RDOs installed at someone else's house would not be a good test because of the other variables mentioned above would not be consistent with my house.
Thanks to you all for your input!- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Jcandy obviously has little practical experience with audio.According to him all speakers sound the same if they put out the same frequencies.
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I guess it boils down to how each person's ears perceive the sound produced by a pair of speakers in their own particular listening environment.There are so many other variables involved in how we actually hear the sounds produced by a given pair of speakers besides just the flat frequency response plotted on a graph under controlled conditions.The graph might prove that the RDO is a better tweeter on paper but doesn't prove that it is the best choice for my listening experience.The acoustics of the room, the ability of the listener to hear all the frequencies produced by the speaker and what sound the listener likes or dislikes all play a part in how well we enjoy what we are hearing from the speakers.I think the tweeter plays a important part in the sound we hear but it must mesh with all the other variables for us to get the WOW factor that we are all looking for. As an example I have a slight hearing loss in the higher frequencies. So if there is a bump in the high frequency range it could explain why I don't find the sl2000 harsh. Another person might sit down to listen to my speakers and wonder how I put up with what they hear.When it comes time to make a decision on the RDOs I will have to purchase a pair to find out if they are for me or not, (unless someone is willing to loan a pair and I don't think that is likely). Then I can compare them to the sl2000 myself and make a decision based on what I can hear. That is the only way I will know for sure they are for me. Listening to speakers with RDOs installed at someone else's house would not be a good test because of the other variables mentioned above would not be consistent with my house.
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Candy I think we are in agreement on most points. I know the 10s aren't the best speakers out there but they do a good job at a low cost and that is what I was looking for. I started looking for a pair of 10s based on hearing a pair of monitor 7s that a friend of mine owned years ago. I was hoping the 10s would be as good or better than the way I remembered the 7s sounding and I haven't been disappointed.
I've never heard the "superb" speakers and it might be a good thing. If I knew what superb speakers sounded like and couldn't afford them then I probably would never be happy with what I have. So far the 10s meet my needs and I'm happy with them and I hope it stays that way.
Just wonder... what do you consider superb speakers? Are there any cheap ones?- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Candy I think we are in agreement on most points. I know the 10s aren't the best speakers out there but they do a good job at a low cost and that is what I was looking for. I started looking for a pair of 10s based on hearing a pair of monitor 7s that a friend of mine owned years ago. I was hoping the 10s would be as good or better than the way I remembered the 7s sounding and I haven't been disappointed.Just wonder... what do you consider superb speakers? Are there any cheap ones?
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/
Dan Neubecker has some extremely impressive projects if your woodworking skills are up to the task; the HOSS for example was the highest scoring speaker at DaytonDIY2008:
http://www.parts-express.com/projectshowcase/indexn.cfm?project=hoss
Zaph has all sorts of interesting and relatively cheap designs; in particular a series based on his own ZA14W08 woofer and the $13 Vifa DQ25 tweeter (these will still require a sub for the lowest octave):
http://www.zaphaudio.com/ZA5/
However, this utter monstrosity won't:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/SB12.3/
Some more expensive DIY examples from Denmark:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
and finally, from the Netherlands:
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/ -
Zaph has all sorts of interesting and relatively cheap designs; in particular a series based on his own ZA14W08 woofer and the $13 Vifa DQ25 tweeter (these will still require a sub for the lowest octave): -
Obviously. He requires objective measures of performance, and can design and build a loudspeaker from scratch, so he can't be a true audiophile.
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Nah that won't cut it,you need to engineer your own drivers aswell.
The odd thing about the ZA14W08 is that its awfully similar to the MCM 55-3870. I wonder what sort of deal was struck with MCM to allow a semi-clone of that driver? -
Dan Neubecker has some extremely impressive projects if your woodworking skills are up to the task; the HOSS for example was the highest scoring speaker at DaytonDIY2008:
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
-
I guess it boils down to how each person's ears perceive the sound produced by a pair of speakers in their own particular listening environment. There are so many other variables involved in how we actually hear the sounds produced by a given pair of speakers besides just the flat frequency response plotted on a graph under controlled conditions. The graph might prove that the RDO is a better tweeter on paper but doesn't prove that it is the best choice for my listening experience. The acoustics of the room, the ability of the listener to hear all the frequencies produced by the speaker and what sound the listener likes or dislikes all play a part in how well we enjoy what we are hearing from the speakers. I think the tweeter plays a important part in the sound we hear but it must mesh with all the other variables for us to get the WOW factor that we are all looking for. As an example I have a slight hearing loss in the higher frequencies. So if there is a bump in the high frequency range it could explain why I don't find the sl2000 harsh. Another person might sit down to listen to my speakers and wonder how I put up with what they hear.
When it comes time to make a decision on the RDOs I will have to purchase a pair to find out if they are for me or not, (unless someone is willing to loan a pair and I don't think that is likely). Then I can compare them to the sl2000 myself and make a decision based on what I can hear. That is the only way I will know for sure they are for me. Listening to speakers with RDOs installed at someone else's house would not be a good test because of the other variables mentioned above would not be consistent with my house.
Thanks to you all for your input!
Trust those of us who have been around Polk speakers and this tweeter especially. I was as skeptical as anyone and the RD0's are so much better than the sl2000 tweeter in every aspect.
That's all I can say and I can tell you I have alteast 20 years listening, selling, owning classic Polk speakers. I replace with RD0's without question.
If you decide not to do it or try it you are missing out, especially since atleast one of your tweeters looks heavily damaged.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Someday :frown:
The odd thing about the ZA14W08 is that its awfully similar to the MCM 55-3870. I wonder what sort of deal was struck with MCM to allow a semi-clone of that driver? -
I like the looks of those things!!! When I was a kid I always wanted a robot. A robot that could sing would be even better. :biggrin:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=216510 -
Just speculation on my part but maybe John liked the 3870 so much that he went directly to the Asian supplier with some ideas for improving it.(ie.phase plug,shorting rings.)Having used both they are visually identical apart from the phase plug in the ZA14.The changes and the doubling of the asking price might differentiate it enough to keep MCM's lawyers off his back.:biggrin:
I have numerous 3870s (4-6, I'm not sure) sitting in the garage just waiting for an application. Great speaker choice for a first DIY project. On the other hand, most all the "sweet" MCM speakers (3870, 3853, 1853) are on backorder now and have been for months. I've been wanting to build a pair of ZBM4 (even got a 35mm Forstner bit for this purpose) but the 1853 is not available. -
I have an idle pair of 3870's so I'm either going to build a pair of ZMV5's or if I get real ambitious use them in a little active 3 piece sub-sat system.
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Tennman I have been watching your post very carefully.I am going to do my 7bs soon.This has been a very helpful post for me .I have found many of the older posts to be very useful also.The pictures in the monitor 5 rebuild have been great.Let us know how the big hands little parts thing goes. I'm in the same boat on that one.Good luck to you!
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Oldfatdogs wrote: »Tennman I have been watching your post very carefully.I am going to do my 7bs soon.This has been a very helpful post for me .I have found many of the older posts to be very useful also.The pictures in the monitor 5 rebuild have been great.Let us know how the big hands little parts thing goes. I'm in the same boat on that one.Good luck to you!
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat